planocat

Why are you confused? You live in Texas. You have a motorhome that weighs in excess of 26,001 pounds and use it for recreational purposes only. To legally operate your vehicle: You are required by law to have a class B non-CDL license whether you tow something or not. If you tow a trailer in excess of 10,000 pounds, you are required to have class A non-CDL license. End of story. It doesn't matter what your salesman told you. I personally believe that if you have a catastrophic claim, the insurance company could deny your claim on the grounds that you were not legally licensed to drive your vehicle. Some would disagree with that statement but I have enough experience with insurance companies to know they don't have all those lawyers on staff to be on the policyholders side. And just like the RV salesman, your agents interpretation means nothing when it's time to pay the claim.

Yes, there may have been 2 revisions since the yellow book, but I'll stand by my statement. The easiest way to pass the written test is to get your hands on a yellow book and study chapter 15. That will cover all the questions on the test. There might be a circumstance where a CDL is required, but I traveled in a motorhome for 20+ years in my business and didn't need a CDL. I chose a motorhome for showing my product to accounts over setting up in motels and pulling a trailer behind my truck. I was legal until I passed the 26,001 lb border. Then I needed the Class A or B non-CDL license. Your mileage may vary.

Chapter 15 is in the smaller yellow manual which was given to me at the DPS office. It is by far easier to follow than the revised white version that only goes through chapter 14. The gal at the office who was the only one who understood what a non-CDL class A or B license is gave it to me. Maybe you can show them this picture and ask for the yellow manual.

Heater control able is no big deal. I moved mine under the hood at the heater control box until I had a chance to remove it and have a new one made. That was on my 97 RexAir and it took all of 15 minutes to remove and install the new one after having it made at the local auto parts store. I wish all repair projects were as easy as that one!

I opted for the hard wired PI unit after much debate. I like the idea of one less thing to hook up at the campground and IF I need to remove it and return the wiring back to original, it is a 30 minute job. I think there is a case to be made for both units....... so it's whatever works for you. I don't think you can go wrong either way.

The smaller yellow book is the one you want to get ahold of.......... Study chapter 15 (which isn't in the larger version) and Appendix B has the list of questions from the written test for your review. It is the easiest method to prepare for the written test. I received my yellow book from the DPS office that does the testing. It is not on line, but it's what IMHO you need to make your life easy.

Well, I have joined what seems to be a minority group in Texas........ legally licensed to drive my diesel pusher that weighs over 26,000 lbs. I opted for a Class A license over the Class B so I can now tow a trailer exceeding 10,000 lbs - which I'm sure I won't do. But, all procedures to obtaining a Class A and Class B are the same. So, I figured why not go for the A. Written test was very easy....... just study the CDL handbook and in particular, chapter 15. Once the written test is passed, they will give you a new driver's license with a "learner's permit" for Class A noted. Ironically, the driver's license showed the learner's permit expired in 30 days. Strange, because the paperwork showing you passed the written portion says you have 90 days to take the road test........ go figure. Last year when I went through the process, there was no mention of the new driver's license with learner's permit. I did not take the driver's test in 2012. So I had to start all over in 2013. I booked the road test on line which is a very nice feature of the process. Arrived to take the test and had to fill out more paperwork as the learner's permit had gone over 30 days and expired. But when I showed them the paperwork stating I had 90 days to take the road test, they had me fill out some more paperwork and allowed the test to proceed as scheduled. The road test was simple. Safety inspection of vehicle horn, lights, etc, check for current registration and inspection sticker, chock the wheels, test the air brake system, and off you go on an approximate 8 or 10 mile drive in the city and freeway. Done deal. Examiner was very nice and specific about what she wanted done. They cutup my DL and gave me a paper version showing I was now licensed for Class A (non-CDL) and said I would have a new license in about 2 weeks. (last license showing the learner's permit came in 10 days). (Update - this permanent license arrived in 9 days.) So, I am now legal. $22 in fees and little time but I now have no worries about the insurance company having a "gotcha clause" by driving a vehicle I am not legally licensed to drive. That was my real motivation for getting the license. Sorry for the length........ but there is so much confusion among drivers, dealers advice, and the Department of Public Safety that I thought inquiring minds would like to know!

They won't fix themselves. Mine starting acting up and working intermittently. After a week, I had to bite the bullet and replace the "brain" at an RV repair facility. Expensive diagnosis, part, and fix, but end of problem. If I remember correctly it was about a $500 repair. Costly but necessary. Hopefully you will find a fix that doesn't include replacing the brain - that was the killer cost on mine.

I had mine removed and the front end repainted. Cost was around $2500 but he said he would never do another for that price. I think Herman's $3000 quote may be more accurate. If you could sell ugly, that original peeling 3M crap on my coach would have been worth a fortune.

I had one installed Spring '12. It worked very well for the limited time I used it before trading coaches. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend one. And yes, it is nice not to have to worry about cranking it up and down.

kyoldguy: Replace now. If you think the tires are expensive. let one explode and you most likely could have bought 2 sets for what it will cost to fix the collateral damage. It's nothing you want to take a chance on havng happen. Unless it has changed in the last 6 months, 16" tires are not included in the FMCA Michelin program. I had the same size tires as you have that I replaced twice at Costco at a very good price. While they no longer install motorhome tires, you can order them and have them installed at an independent dealer. And yes, I would have them balanced. JMHO

For the generator, I would call Parker Power Systems. Been using them since the early 80's. They are competent, efficient and honest....... a pretty hard trifecta to find. Here's a link: http://www.parkerpwr.com/

I would think (correct me if I'm wrong) that it is because of the LLC. Have you tried getting a loan in your name rather than the LLC using your "home" state mailing address where you are registered to vote? I know, that would mean you would have to pay taxes like the rest of us do......... but it may also lead to loan approval.

I'm also in Texas and have had excellent service on my home, boats, motorcycles, and RV from this independent agent. http://strictlycycles.com/ You might want to give Wayne Shaw a call.

I have been with Allstate and also AAA in the past.......... until I needed the service. I can say from first hand experience that neither company has a clue when it comes to the kind of equipment needed to tow an RV. Why they even claim to be in the RV business is beyond me. On the advice of a friend, I switched to Coach-Net years ago. As luck would have it, 2 days after signing up I had a master cylinder go out and needed to be towed to the closest Heavy Duty Ford dealership. They promptly sent the biggest dadgone tow truck I had seen. Driver knew what he was doing....... had me on the hook, disconnected the drive shaft, and delivered to the dealership within 2 hours. I know nothing about Good Sam, but can highly recommend Coach-Net based on my experiences in addition to that of friends.

Ok, so tell me how lucky I am....... but when I purchased my last motorhome I could not keep my Dometic refrigerator operating while running down the road. I brought it in for servicing on multiple occasions and they replaced fuses, circuit boards, etc and nothing worked. I ran into a gentleman who said I should purchase and cut to size a porous furnace filter from Walmart and place it inside the external refrigerator door. I did that and never had the refrigerator blowout in 14 years of use! Guess I was just lucky as I see posts of the refrigerator fires due to overheating. But, that was the solution to my problem and I live in Texas where we start most every Summer day knowing 95* is a Cold Front.

We make a motorcycling trip to Alpine/Big Bend as often as we can. Next one scheduled for early March. Hoping to have the license in place by then, but if not, that might work as we trailer the bikes behind the motorhome. Thanks for the tip!

Herman: Ah, Sherman.......And when I called up there, which was the first call I made, they didn't have an appointment for a month!! Many of the smaller offices don't do the exam and others tell you to come and stand in line with the 250 high schoolers and they might get to you on a first come - first serve basis...... if the examiner feels like doing motorhomes on that day. I tried everywhere in North Texas from Sherman to Waxahachie to Quitman to Abilene as I really didn't want to go through the process again or continue to drive in a gray area of the law. Nothing to be had before my 90 day expiration date. Plano was about as good as any, because at least they will set an appointment. Just another in the long list of things I have to get to!

For many years we hunted grouse and woodcock in Maine the first week of October. Usually that was early in the color cycle but still quite spectacular. A highlight of the trip was always spending a day at the Fryeburg Fair in Fryeburg, Maine. One of the largest fairs in New England and most enjoyable. Lots of RVers make the fair. I highly recommend making that a stop on your journey. Fryeburg is right on the New Hampshire border, very close to North Conway, New Hampshire. New Hampshire has no sales tax and as such, is an outlet mall shopping destination. Another great place to spend the day. http://www.fryeburgfair.com/index.html It's a great place to be in October........ enjoy your trip and be safe.

I was thinking along your lines and passed the written test. You must then schedule an appointment within 90 days to take the driving test. Unfortunately, I got my new motorhome with a week before written test expiration and could not find an appointment anywhere in North Texas that fell within the 90 day period. So, I have to pay the fee again, take the written test again, and schedule a road test with the DP. While calling all around to try and find a road test appointment, every time I asked if I could take the test with a gas coach, I was told no. But your area may be different.

I encountered the same scenario when I purchased my coach this May. Here's what we found: Onan QD 7500 would run fine for about 25-30 minutes and quit. Wait 15 minutes and it would run fine for about 10 minutes and quit. Took it in for service and they checked everything out without finding the problem. I ran across a post on RV.net with identical problem and here's what it turned out to be. The radiator was plugged up and the unit would get to 240* and shut off. Cool down and it would run again to 240* and shut down. Servicing dealer insisted it wasn't the radiator as the unit only had 206 hrs on it......... But, that's what it was. Radiator shop said unit was so bad that they recommended replacing (radiator itself was <$200 ) rather than cleaning. That was the problem all along and it now runs like a champ for as long as you want to run it. So, if all else fails, you might suggest he check the radiator. Both the seller and I had to force the radiator scenario on the service center after reading this post ( http://forums.goodsamclub.com/Index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/24252552/print/true.cfm ) as they kept insisting it was something else. Hope this is of some help. Planocat

You might want to consider Sandy Lake RV park in Carrollton. It's on Sandy Lake Road between I-35E on the east and George Bush Turnpike on the west. Here's the link: http://sandylakerv.com/

New to me 2004 Dutch Star model 3809 on a Spartan chassis with 370 hp Cummins / Allison 6 speed. I keep reading about people running 62-63 mph at 1650 rpms. They keep talking about 1650 rpms being the sweet spot. I am not seeing anything close to that as I see 1800 at 62 mph according to my gauges. I did not have the trans in "Economy Mode", but I don't think that changes the rpms. I read on another forum where poster claimed they had to get to 68mph to shift into 6th gear and then could back off to 65 mph. If that is the case, I never got to 68 as I'm of the 60-62 mph comfort zone type of driver. Perhaps I was in 5th gear? I will call Spartan on Monday to see if they can tell me what rear end ratio I have. Am I the only one looking at those kind of numbers? What is your targeted rpm for maximum economy?

We're in the homestretch of the PDI on a new to me 38' 2004 Dutch Star - Spartan Chassis w/ 370 Cummins. Last item that hasn't been corrected is the A&E / Dometic electric front door awning. It extends automatically but has to be retracted manually. If it is the motor, I about fell over when they quoted $561 for just that little motor!!! Wow, I can't ask the seller to eat that one as it is a crazy price for a unit that, by everything I can tell, will only break again in the near future. So, here is a thought that may or may not be valid. When I called Newmar, they said to be sure and reverse the wires before ordering a motor to see if, with the wires reversed, the unit will retract and not extend. IF that is the case, could I install some type of switch that does the same thing ? Brett, ****, Herman, or anyone who has encountered this problem, I need your thoughts here. With the failure rate in these units, I'm looking for a cheap fix or will just do it manually. Help!! ****

Unless they have changed something in the last couple weeks, the answer is no...... it is only for large RV tires. My old class A on a Ford chassis takes 235-85 R 16" tires and they don't include those in the program either. I think 19.5 is the smallest tire included in the program.