Briarhopper

Just in case anyone has an HWH 310 or 610 leveling system, the system has to go thru the complete store routine and the control shut off on its own. If the store routine is interrupted by turning off the control or ignition switch, the jack cylinders may drop due to expansion of the fluid in the system. Allowing it to store and shut off on its own should prevent the issue in this case.

Have seen ads for them like this for example: http://www.ueitest.com/products/ac-refrigeration/rld10 Assume they work, but have never heard anyone speak of using them.

We've been using 4-7 GB per month so the $45/3GB would cost us more at a slower speed. Sounds like it could work for your purposes though. It may be a bit of a hassle to add airtime per some reviews on Wal-Mart's website.

We have been using a Verizon MiFi for 4 years and currently gives 5GB for $50 or 10GB for $80. Once or twice a year I look around for a better option and seems most are either less quality or higher cost. The really good dollar deals and the unlimited usage usually limit your speeds. Depending on where you travel, there is a provider called Boingo that provides Wifi at airports and similar locations. They have agreements with many other providers and you can get an unlimited plan for $9.99 a month (they cut your speed if you use a lot). Teingo Internet which covers many state parks is one of their partners. We had it for a while but then ended up not staying anywhere near one of the hotspots for several months.

Cummins literature show the peak HP improving for the 1050 torque ISC as follows: 2003 350 2007 360 2010 380 Torque would remain the same, but achieving a higher peak HP at the same RPM would give more available power, would it not?? Looking at the performance charts, all three engines delivered peak torque of 1050 @ 1400 RPM. However, the torque delivered at 2000 RPM at peak HP changed from 920 in the ISC350 to 1000 in the ISC380 First edit/add after desertdeals69 comment below: The 3 HP ratings were all at 2000 RPM. HP is directly related to torque, so the same torque at the same RPM would yield the same actual HP. The ratings are noted by Cummins as "Advertised HP". I had noticed before that the HP ratings were below what the torque would yield, but had not really thought about it. I guess this means the change in ratings is more marketing than reality. I had not taken into account the change in torque at the peak HP RPM So you could get a higher peak HP at the same RPM, but you would have to increase torque to do it. Increasing the torque at the peak HP RPM resulted in a higher peak HP. Note: Edited a second time to strike what may not be exactly correct and add some additional underlined info.

Might find the answer at https://quickserve.cummins.com The website used to cost, but I think is now free. You can input your EIN (engine serial number) and get all the specs, parts, etc. Look for "ISC Engine Familiarization" document. Assuming it is the same type doc as the 1998 version, it will discuss the difference in HP capability. In mine for instance pistons make a difference.

The two solenoids in the back compartment sound like the 12v power disconnect which is actuated on or off by your 12v toggle switch somewhere in the coach and the boost solenoid which ties the coach battery in with the chassis battery for a extra boost when starting the engine. Neither likely related to the issue. A remote starter solenoid can be found by tracing the large cable from the starter. Have you reinstalled the fuse panel that was being removed when the sparking occurred?

Have not experienced or heard of lifting causing a crack, but I suppose is possible. The cracks I have encountered thru the years have all started at impact points from flying debris (except for the time I broke my Mom's windshield while clearing ice; six year old with a broom stick; what can I say). Look along the cracks and see if you can find what looks where a stone impact occurred. If you find one, it would be the likely cause.

I recently had to learn what makes an HWH system work and sounds like a loose ground connection. Mines a couple years newer, but appears similar. If you have power at the pump solenoid control circuit stud and it does not click when you hit an up button, then the ground is likely loose on control side of the solenoid. If the solenoid clicks then the control circuit is closing and there should be power on both lugs of the load side of the solenoid when it's closed (button down). If there is power going to the pump from the solenoid and the pump does not run then the ground connection from the pump is likely loose. All the grounds for the HWH should be attached to the bracket under the pump or nearby on the chassis frame. Follow the negative cable from the pump motor to the lug where it is grounded and see if it is loose. Gen may have been grounded at the same location and the HWH cable left out or may have just gotten giggled loose. Be careful if you need to tighten any lugs on the solenoid as it is very easy to short power across the lugs.

That much of a leak would either have to be somewhere you cannot see or somewhere the leaking is masked by other grime/oil/etc. Not all leaks that leak with pressure will leak with vacuum. Curious if anyone has used one of the electronic leak detectors on freon??

mandalay40f Welcome. I don't have personal experience with either. Per Michelin's specs, The XZA line is a highway tire and the XZE line is regional. Regional tires usually have tougher corners and sidewalls, so depending on the application, may ride stiffer. If loaded down, may not notice much difference. YOu coudl use the seacrh function on this forum and search for both and probably find a lot of commentary on both tires. Yourself and prior post mention downhill steer issues. The XZA has more of a flat tread, which I imagine may not be as forgiving on steering at speed if everything is not just right. I am curious if you tried different air pressure to see if you could improve the handling???? Stuart

Welcome to the forum. How long does it take to discharge? Have you checked the battery voltage at full charge and then as it discharges?

A few lbs of air high or low in the front tires can make a noticeable difference in handling. I have noticed on our 40' DP that running the front tires at the high side of the weight adjusted tire pressure allows the front end to walk a little more. Letting 5 lbs out improved the steering. Of course, I forgot over the winter, aired back to normal and then took me a few thousand miles of wondering why I was fighting the steering wheel again to remember to let the 5 lbs back out.

Do you still have power to live (unkeyed) accesories? Do you still have power to the ignition starting circuits? When you "shorted something, did you see, hear or smell smoke and/flame?

To add to Herman's diagnosis, here is a link to the HWH pdf that shows all the system control panels. You can use it to identify your model. Yours is probably a 610. http://www.hwhcorp.com/ml40256.pdf

I cannot personally recommend, but the dealer below is part of the Freightliner Oasis Network. Theoretically that means they cater to motorhomes as well as trucks. You can read about the network at: http://freightlinerchassis.com/Service-Locator/oasis-network/menu-id-95.html. Some Oasis dealers offer disounts to FCOC members. HOUSTON FTL, STL, WST 9550 NORTH LOOP EAST HOUSTON, TX 77029 www.houstonfreightliner.com

You should be able to feel air flow from the vent when you start filling the tank. If not there may be some sort of one-way blockage. Our tank has two 1/2" vent lines. There may be a second vent that is plugged and the single remaining vent is not enough to allow a high flow city water fill-up. Do you fill with a hose stuck loosely into a port or do you have a valve that allows you to fill the tank while the hose is still connected? If you fill while connected, is there a separate fill port for filling with a open ended hose? If so, you can open this port for venting.

A 20 degree difference is not really enough to be concerned, but just to be clear for those who pass by this thread. If you inflated your tires to 105 psi at 65 degrees, then they will read lower by roughly 2 psi at 48 degrees. If you are checking at 48 degrees early in the morning and the daytime high is going to be back to 65, then you allow that the psi will be roughly 2 psi low when you check, but no need to add air. If your cold inflation pressure is 105 psi and you plan to be driving in 20 degree air and your coach is sitting in 20 degree air when you check, you would inflate your tires to 105 psi. If you had a heated garage and your coach was sitting at 70 degrees and you were going to pull out into 20 degree air, you would inflate to 110.

It may be the position of the thermostat for the rear unit is positioned so that the temp stays below 69 during the day and when you shut off the front unit it warms and kicks in. Other thought is there maybe an automatic switch that only allows one unit to operate. Is the electrical shore line connection to park power 50 amp or 30 amp?

The 50 amp surge suppressor should work in both cases. It won't know whether your plugged into an adapter or not. If all your stuff works using the 30A adapter, then the only differences between feeding the coach with a 50 amp connection or a 30 amp adapter is: 1. Your total available amps is reduced from 100 to 30. 2. The 30 amp feed is single phase instead of double phase. Neither item should effect whether or not the surge suppressor functions. However, since electronic gizmos can be persnickety, to be certain, you could email or call the tech support of the surge suppressor you intend to purchase.

How much weight the coach can safely carry and tow is a function of engine, transmission, chassis, tires and brake systems. We had a 36 foot coach with a 454. Fully loaded at roughly 18,000 lbs, it was capable of towing an additional 2,000lbs for a total of 20,000 lbs. Assuming similar weight and tow ratings, the MG is probably within the original capability of the coach, but checking the weight ratings would be a good thing to do. If within the ratings, then it's just a case of your ability and comfort using the gears and brakes to negotiate the hills. Assuming your Dutch Star has an automatic transmission, the engine and transmission will run cooler NOT in overdrive if you are near the weight limit and when climbing.

I looked at the 2011 Explorer manual 4th printing on ford.com. The manual could be written better, but it does say the front wheel drive is towable four down and the method and procedure appear to be the same as the 4x4. BH

Brett and Dan hit the hammer on the head of the nail squarely. The range and BBQ grill you can light the old fasioned way by holding a match or lighter next to the burner. I can add if your 2000 AB is like our 2000 AB, there is one manifold (multiple connection) that feeds both furnaces, the fridge, the water heater and the range. The water heater is the shortest line, but lighting the range is easiest and the other appliances should have gas fairly quick after that. Not sure, but I think the BBQ grill may be on a seperate line from the tank so it may take a minute to light. BH