QuiGonJohn

Thanks, on the outlet testing screen on that website, those are the exact tests I did for my outlet and I got those same results, so I am good. I was a little worried, until I read that, as I also got the 120VAC from the hot to ground. But I see that is correct.

So, as I mentioned, I put in a 30A receptacle using a TT30R on the side of my house, for my RV. I knew when I put it in that it only had 120VAC across it, and tested at that time. But I just tested it again with my voltmeter. Across the 2 angled slots, it is 122.8VAC. Now here is where I ask to please pardon my stupidity, but I have read a lot about polarity, as well. First off, I never really thought AC had to worry about polarity, since it alternates between pos & neg at about 60 cycles. But, is there a way to test, with a standard voltmeter if this plug is wired in correct polarity. When I installed it, I followed all the white/black/green wiring instructions and got that from the same corresponding source power.

I bought this one, after reading about it here on FMCA. http://www.tiretraker.com/ Many others have bought it too and been happy. They are a good bit less costly than many of the other brands/models.

I put in a 30 Amp plug at my house, so I could plug the RV in on the side of the house. I too came off the dryer circuit, but I was smart enough to only draw the power from one side of the circuit, 120v. Then I used 10 gauge wire for the 2 foot run through the wall and to the outlet. If we put the A/C on in the RV, we put a danger tag on the dryer to shut off the A/C before using the dryer.

Rjroxie, good point. I have a 30 amp RV and in the reverse of the OP's issue, it may be just as conceivable that a park that has 50 amp/220v on a post, might wire in a 30 Amp receptacle, but mistakenly apply 220v across that vs. 120v. And that would fry my RV. I hadn't thought of this, but I will start checking voltage, I already carry a meter.

I wanted to thank all who gave suggestions and help on this. I finally got the coolant changed right around the end of Aug/beginning of Sept. It was over many days, as I had to flush a couple times until it was mostly clear. Apparently I did it all correct though, because we took the RV from South Florida up through GA, NC, then back down the east coast home and it never overheated or leaked coolant. I was a little concerned because, in order to get a good flush, each time I drained I had to remove the large coolant hose at the bottom of the radiator, beside opening the drain itself. But it all seems to be fine.

Just back from a 2 week RV Trip through the Southeast and I thought I would update on my experience with Walmart's "Internet-On-The-Go". I bought the device early in the morning on 9/12 and plugged it in to charge it, once I got home. At that same time I went online to their website to activate it. Later in the afternoon, I figured it was fully charged and tested it, the 3GB I bought was applied and I was able to get the internet. We left home (Southeast Florida), on 9/13 and traveled up Florida via the Turnpike, then I-75, up through GA and Atlanta, then into the mountains NE of Atlanta, then into NC up toward Asheville, then Chimney Rock, then over to Asheboro, then further east to Warsaw, NC. After that we headed home, back towards Fayetteville, NC, then down I-95 to South Florida. We were able to get internet almost every time we tried while on the interstate highways. We were not able to get it at the campground we stayed at outside of Blairsville, GA and also at the campground we stayed at just east of Chimney Rock, NC. We were able to get it at all other stops. We used it as much as we wanted and needed to. For the whole trip we used about .4GB of data, less than half a gigabyte. So it seems this device and plan is a good fit for our needs. We will be home for a couple weeks, then we are taking a long weekend trip to Tampa, (in the car, not the RV), and we will probably take it on the road with us. After that, we are camping in the RV for a weekend in early Nov, and will take it again. Most likely, after those trips, we will still have between 1.5GB and 2GB left. As far as the refills, we signed up for Auto-Refill, so I can't report on how well that works. But since the initial activation/being able to actually use it, went pretty smooth, I imagine the Auto-Refill will go just as smoothly.

Wow, that was quick. Thanks. I do have a plug in for wire connector, for towing, on the back of my RV, and this connector does fit into that plug. So I guess I could use this to wire a trailer or another towed vehicle into this connector.

When we bought our used RV, (2006 Winnebago Aspect 26A), they included a large black bag, mostly with documents such as manuals for the various systems. But also in that bag was the plastic device pictured. I have no idea what it is or what it is for. I could not find it identified in any of the manuals, (unless I just missed). Anyway, if anyone knows what it might be for, I would appreciate the info. 3 angles shown. Only marking is the word "TAIWAN" on one of the "wings". Seems to have electrical contacts on one end and an opening for air or water flow on the other end.

Well I use the liquid, as I cannot find the powder. It is in the laundry sections but it actually softens the water which helps keep the sides of the tank 'slicker' so things don't tend to stick to the sides. Powder or Liquid will work, they say the powder is more concentrate and thus a better buy. But my tanks are kinda small, and I get by with a cap full in each tank, after dumping. Here is the link to the Geo Method: https://sites.google.com/site/cbruni/ When I first got my RV, my tanks would not show empty, after dumping. Then I followed these steps, next time I camped I completely filled both tanks, dumped and they went straight to empty. Never have odor problems. Real happy following these steps.

Been using Calgon Softener since I first read about the Geo Method. It quickly solved problems with my indicators being funky, and gives good tank drains every time.

We're taking a road trip through parts of GA & NC in September. Tentative plans include stays at the below RV Parks. Interested if anyone has any feedback on any of these parks. Etowah River Campground, Dahlonega, GA Trackrock Campground, Blairsville, GA, especially interested in feedback on their horseback riding. River Creek Campground, near Chimney Rock, NC Crosswinds Campground, Linwood, NC Lake Gaston Americamps, Bracey, VA Thanks!

I got my Zerex and plan to flush/change this weekend. My E450 V10 is a 2006 with about 40K. I know some people mention changing the hoses. I'd like to, but expense right now is an issue. But I wouldn't want a bad hose to cause me to have to buy all new coolant, it was $72 for the 4 jugs of full strength, (with tax). Also, some of the hoses are probably too difficult for me to change myself, due to the long length and where they go to on the engine. I'm wondering if I should wait and do it all again in 4 or 5 years, including the coolant and all hoses. As best as I can tell, the hoses seem OK. I just looked again and the large Upper and Lower Radiator Hoses seem fairly simple to replace, can get to both ends easily, so I may at least change those, depending on what most folks here think.

I just did this on my Onan 4.7 (not sure about a 7.4). Anyway, there is a dust cover at the bottom over the drain plug, the heads are some kind of allen or torx. I could not get them off easily and had to use vice grips. Before I put that cover back on, I got replacement machine screws at the hardware store. They were metric, I believe M6, and with a regular hex bolt head. But bring one with you. As to the drain plug, I did not have a problem. But the man at the RV shop I use said sometimes they are really hard to get off and then it has to be replaced with a drain plug kit that Onan sells. So try it, if it comes off easy, your set. If not, then you might have to take the RV in. Engine Oil on my 26' Winnebago Aspect Ford V10 is easy. I have done it twice. Last August, before a cross country trip to the Grand Canyon. And again in October after that 5,000 mile trip. I am taking a trip to GA & NC in September, so I will probably change the engine oil again, due to mileage and it being another year.

So, at least to some degree, the coolant doesn't become less effective just due to age alone, but age in combination with the kind of duty it is asked to perform. Heavier constant use would degrade it's performance earlier. Less often, shorter drives, like a MH that gets maybe 200 to 300 miles over a weekend or week, every 6 to 8 weeks, it should hold up it's ability to perform it's designed task for longer periods of time. Is that basically correct? I will be getting Zerex G05, it's not too expensive, so my last flush, as well as the water I put in, will be distilled. Actually, we use drinking water from one of the machines at the grocery, we fill a 5 gallon jug, they use reverse osmosis and a couple filters. It is $1.75 for 5 gallons.

I read about Zerex G05. Is the Valvoline the same or just as good? I'm leaning towards going with either Zerex or now Valvoline, depending on what I can get in my area and at what costs. I will flush as good as I can, then put in the coolant and then distilled water. One thing I read said when you put in the flush water, or the final coolant, run the engine and the heater, but leave the pressure cap off, to facilitate any burping and keep the system from building up pressure. How long should the engine be off for sufficient cooling before draining again?

Here is the info from the owners manual. It says Premium Gold, as original factory coolant.. It mentions not mixing with Specialty Orange, but seems to indicate one could switch to Specialty Orange, if a full flush was done. Also on capacity, it lists 30.4 quarts (or 7.5 gallons), does that sound right? • Add Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B51-A1. Refer to Lubricant specifications in this chapter. • Do not add/mix an orange-colored, extended life coolant such as Motorcraft Specialty Orange Engine Coolant, meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B44-D, with the factory-filled coolant. Mixing Motorcraft Specialty Orange Engine Coolant or any orange-colored extended life product with your factory filled coolant can result in degraded corrosion protection. I do not have a problem with using Motorcraft. Would the Specialty Orange give me a lot longer time between change outs? Apparently, the Premium Gold was a step up from the older green and is supposed to be a yellowish color. Since mine seems more greenish, (a very pale light green), perhaps the prior owner used the green type, either doing a full flush or just when adding makeup. My Owner Manual does not list a time period or mileage recommendation for changing the engine coolant, with the Premium Gold.

Well I drew that sample and in a clear container it is definitely greenish. So it must be the "standard" type of anti-freeze, not the "long-life". I used a water test kit and the ph is 7.2. I will pick up some of the test strips from the auto parts store, so I can see the protection levels, as well.

I was having a similar issue that turned out to be the fuel pump. Which actually was not too bad, as the tech at the RV Shop thought, from my description, my carb may have been varnished over. Which would have cost much more.

Reviving an old thread. Brett, interesting detail on Coolant for a Diesel. Can you provide similar info for a gas engine. My coach is a 2006 Ford E450 V10 and the Owner's Manual seems to indicate it may have one of 2 different types. The original coolant or a "long life" coolant. Unfortunately, it does not give an easy way to tell which. I know your not supposed to mix the green/orange types. I plan to get some out of the overflow bottle and put it in a clear glass to see the coloration. It looks slightly orange, through the overflow bottle, but looking into the bottle it seems sort of clear. Of course, I could drain it and then refill with either type, but most likely, if I do this at home, I will not get all the coolant out of the system, just from the radiator, the overflow and a small amount out of the hoses and engine. So when I add whichever, if it is not the same, there would be some mixing. Also, I did a lot of reading on the internet, (most hits were from other RV forums), and I see a big difference of opinions. Some people recommend coolant drain/refill often. Others say you can go many, many years, just make sure it is giving the proper freeze/overheat protection. I saw on one post where you mentioned the coolant turning acidic, and that is what started me looking into this. I was hoping the Owner's Manual was going to say "use this type and no other", but no such luck. Are there any test strips that would also tell you the type. Thanks!

Brett, that is what I was thinking. If I'm going to get a 10 gauge extension, I'd really only ever need that for the RV, so it might as well be one that has the 30 Amp connectors on both ends. Herman, I am in the process of putting in a 30 Amp circuit, with a TT30R receptacle at home. The extension rig would be mostly for if I stay at someone's house that does not have a 30 Amp circuit. Or the rare time the campground outlet is too far from where I need to park the RV. I also plan to pick up a 30A to 20A dogbone adapter vs. the one-piece adapter I currently have. The cord attached to my RV is 25', (I just measured it). I am leaning toward a 30ft extension, but also saw a 25ft. Price difference is only $8. Any reason not to go with the 30ft? That would be 55ft total, if in use.

Thanks. I will shop for a really good 10 gauge extension cord for when I am traveling. I just bought the last of all the parts I need to put in the 30A circuit at my home, beside where I park the RV, when at home. Now I just have to install it all.

I was wondering about this. I fully realize that, in an ideal world, you are not supposed to plug your RV into a regular household 120-volt 20-amp circuit, with an extension and an adapter. But, let's assume for a minute that you have to do this. I know for most of the loads in the RV, this is probably OK, as long as you don't use the microwave/convection oven and the A/C. Now let's assume that you need to use the A/C and also that your A/C does not trip the breaker and that your extension cord is beefy enough to handle the heavy current. Now here is my question. In such a setup, can it hurt the A/C to be running off power like that? To my mind, as long as it has power, and doesn't trip the breaker or overheat the extension cord, it ought to be OK, (not an optimal way to run), but not anything that will be detrimental to the A/C system. But, the guy at the RV Service Shop I had my RV into recently, said this does hurt the A/C, that it causes it to work harder and can be detrimental to the system. So, if anyone here feels they are an expert on A/C Systems and would like to chime in, your feedback would be appreciated. Personally, I have done this, I do keep it to a minimum. Maybe a little while getting ready for a trip and working in or loading the RV, I might have the air on a bit. I am in the process of installing a 30-amp circuit with a plug outside my home. But also, when on the road, I have visited family and stayed at their house 1 or 2 nights and hooked up in this fashion. As I said, I do try to keep this to a minimum.

I ordered one, the 12v model that can handle flooded or AGM, with desulfation. I plan to put it on the house batteries for a week, then move it to the engine battery for a week, then probably my rider mower. (doing this whenever we are at home, not out on the road). I have also ordered a smart converter/charger to upgrade the main unit in the RV, so that will handle the house batteries, after I get it and get that installed.

I have crossed it several times in my RV. No problems. No restrictions I am aware of. I have heard if there is really bad weather, they sometimes close it, but that is very rare. I even crossed it once in very heavy fog and it was fine.