Lenpa

Use more water when flushing. We ALWAYS flush the poop & paper and then fill the bowl about a third and flush again. this pushed the "pile" on into the tank. Lenp

There are tank level sensors that use sensors on the outside of the tank. See Level comes to mind - http://www.rvgauge.com/rv.htm I have also replaced existing sensors by drilling a new hole and inserting "well nuts" with the old wires connected to them. Seemed to work fine and they can be replaced as needed in the future. Lenp

Kerry, We were full time in fifth wheels (a 30 footer and two 40 footers) for thirteen years and just last year decided to go to a 40 MH. No regrets after a year of ownership. We liked the 5w and had a great truck (International 4400) but i am finding the MH is much easier to maneuver into tight spots than the 5w was. Lenp

I have been towing my 2012 F150 4x4 over 10,000 miles - 2012 is when Ford introduced the "tow" mode on the F150. I DID have a battery go dead when I left everything hooked up and in "tow" mode overnight. For that reason I installed a charge line from the coach to the F150. Fused it on both ends and no issues since. I do have a RVI brake installed and I think that is what drained the battery. Highly recommend you have auxiliary braking of some type - especially in case of a break away, At least the pickup will come to a stop after it comes unhooked! Lenp

Partsrod, It sounds like you have a tank vent plugged. The vent should prevent the P traps from being emptied. Might be the OPs problem also. Lenp

Is your kitchen sink in a slide out? If so, perhaps the drain line has broken. Lenp

Bruce, The tip of mine is probably about 14' 4" and, yes, it does contact things like gas station overheads and low overpasses but it recovers. That might be what happened to yours - one too many impacts. good luck, lenp

Santacarver, On my '02 the "stick" protrudes 23 1/4" above the base. One might think Winnebago used the same antenna on all their coaches but who knows. Someplace for you to start. Suggest you try a coat hanger cut to length before cutting the stainless replacement. Make sure you have bare metal where you stick it in the base. Lenp

As Brett says, yes the tanks must be lowered from the chassis - preferable to run the tank as low as possible first to reduce the weight. But,as Brett says, test it with an external source of fuel first. Lenp

Part of your problem could be the "old" line is sucking air some where between the tank and the generator. Friend had a Bounder of the same vintage as yours and the rubber line from the top of the tanks was cracked. Never could get it running until dropping the tank and replacing the old rubber line. Lenp

Dean, I have an ISL set at 370hp. The thermostat is a 170 degree one - I thought it should be higher but my mechanic tells me this is correct for this engine. Normal temps on flat ground runs very close to the 170 point. When I hit the hills (Bighorn Mountains) last August and let the Allison do it's thing the temps start to climb fast. Going up (eastbound US 14) is about 15 miles of 6-8% grade. Letting the Allison do it's thing let the RPM stay around 1500 (4th gear) resulting in the rapid rise in temp. By manually downshifting (3rd) to keep the RPM between 1800-2000 the engine stayed below 190. You have to keep air moving through the engine. Third gear provided more than enough speed due to very twisty roads with some 25-35 mph turns. Wouldn't want to go up much faster anyway. Do you have an exhaust temperature (Pyrometer) on yours? By keeping the RPM up you will keep the exhaust temps down resulting in lower engine temperature. Lenp

Gerald, I have an 02 Winniebago with a 370hp ISL cummins. I tow a F150 super crew. Combined weight is 38,400 - 3600 under the CGWR of the coach. Nearing home (Oregon) after a 7500 mile winter excursion and have averaged 7.5mpg. IF I run without the F150 the mpg only goes up to around 8mpg so as stated above - get what you are comfortable with. Lenp

Sounds to me like you have a case of the "piles". Just cleaned one out for a friend tonight - crappy job! The way most of the RVs are made today result in a black tank that is 6-12 inches deep. The toilet line enters the tank on the shallow end of the tank - perhaps 3-4 inches. When we flush while trying to conserve water the solids (poop & paper) tend to accumulate at this entry point. Often when you dump the tank a small "pile" is left. When you next use the toilet the pile builds a little more until you reach a point it is backed up into the inlet pipe. If your toilet is still backed up, use a snake (or a straightened coat hanger) to clear a small passage. Then put a hose with a rag wrapped around the end to form a tight seal in the bottom of the toilet bowl. Recommend a shut off valve on the hose VERY CLOSE. Apply a little pressure to the "plug" and hopefully it will free up and flow freely. Once you get it flowing use a wand to thoroughly clean the inlet to the tank. Here is a good wand to use: http://www.amazon.com/Camco-40074-Flexible-Swivel-Shutoff/dp/B0006IX7YC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1387598137&sr=8-3&keywords=black+tank+wand In the future, ALWAYS use plenty of water. We usually will fill the bowl about 1/3 full before "doing our thing", flush when finished, fill the bowl 1/3 again and flush again. This helps to "push" the solids into the tank better. Might have to dump the black tank more often but it sure beats cleaning out the "pile". Try not to dump the black tank until it is nearly full. This allows the solids to dissolve and flow easily out of the tank. If you do dump before it is at least half full, use your black tank flush to put extra water into the tank before dumping. My tank gauge is a joke and never works. I wait until the toilet burps (tells me the vent pipe is blocked) before I dump whenever possible. As for the toilet paper to use - RV toilet paper IS NOT needed. Any septic approved paper will work fine. To test it take 2-3 sheet and place it in a glass of water, shake it briefly and if it disintegrates it is fine to use. We use White Cloud 2 ply and have not had a problem as long as we use plenty of water as noted above. In fact I strongly urge you to put about five gallons into the tank after you dump each time. As for chemicals, we never use them unless there is a significant odor problem - typically very hot weather. The plumber snake I carry came in handy tonight. Managed to unplug the toilet with only a little splashing inside the bowel itself! Rubber gloves were nice though! Another accessory I will not be without is the Flush King: http://www.campingworld.com/search/index.cfm?Ntt=flush+king&N=0&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntk=primary&Nty=1&Ntpc=1&Ns=p_sort_default Hope this helps. Lenp

Might want to have a look at: http://www.crankyape.com/default.asp?pg=DisItems&Cat=6 I think repos is about all they do. Lenp

I have pulled a 40' fiver with no problems. Just don't get in a hurry! Lenp