huffypuff

I copy this from the 3000 MH and 4000 MH owners manual. HIGH FLUID TEMPERATURE The transmission is considered to be overheated when any of the following temperatures are exceeded: Sump fluid 121˚C (250˚F) Fluid to cooler 149˚C (300˚F) Retarder out fluid 165˚C (330˚F) If the sump fluid temperature reaches 128°C (262°F) the ECU will inhibit operation in the higher ranges If the transmission overheats during normal operations, check the fluid level in the transmission. (Refer to the Fluid Check Procedures as described in the CARE AND MAINTENANCE section starting on Page 28 of this handbook.) If the engine temperature gauge indicates a high temperature, the transmission is probably overheated. Stop the vehicle and check the cooling system. If it appears to be functioning properly, run the engine at 1200–1500 rpm with the transmission in N (Neutral). This should reduce the transmission and engine temperatures to normal operating levels in 2 or 3 minutes. If temperatures do not decrease, reduce the engine rpm. If the engine temperature indicates a high temperature, an engine or radiator problem is indicated. If high temperature in either the engine or transmission persists, stop the engine and have the overheating condition investigated by maintenance personnel.

That would be a good link for me to see about the eco mode on the Allison 6 speed if that is what transmission it's about.

That's strange, my owners manual says to drop to lower gear as you hit a steep grade that supposed to keep engine temperature down and fuel mileage better. Then again the transmission has an eco button that seems to have the transmission shift sooner and hold higher gear longer. I have a boost gauge and I thought it was there to let you know the turbo is working. On mine the boost is low when cruising but rise when accelerating up to 25 lbs.

I guess it's another way to sell snake oil. I figure I would have to burn 1,500 gal of fuel at $4 per gallon to pay for it. I got 8.75 MPG on my 5,000 mile trip to Alaska and back so if I got an 10% increase it would be 9.65 MPG. That means I would have to drive 14,475 mile to realize a payback. I guess not worth it from the feedback I got.

I have a 2006 Holiday Rambler Ambassador 40' DP with 8.3L Cummins 330 ISC. I see programmers available that claims more power and fuel mileage. These just plug in to wire harness at the fuel rail and turbo pressure sensors with some being adjustable. Has anyone use one of these chips and if so is it worth it?

OK I got the steer axle installed and wheel alignment. What a different it made and will soon get 4 more for the rear. The tires cost 495.71 each before taxes from Michelin and I paid labor for new valves and balance to the dealer. I will have the rears replaced before the trip to the east coast this coming Christmas season.

OK, I got the rear one on by using wire ties on the ladder up high. The ladder is too wide to use double face tape or screws but it looks good as each end touches the ladder. I'm thinking of a suction cup mount (2) to hold the other one on the inside of the windshield for the front.

When we first had the sofa bed used by friends we later found that the mattress had a air mattress built inside that needed to be filled when in use. Just think how dumb we felt.

I have to walk around it and see what I think. Has anyone used double stick tape or is screws the only way?

I just got my FMCA plates today. Where do I mount them? I was thinking one upper left rear. Where does the second one go?

I got the tires today then went at a frame and chassis shop and got it aligned. Toe was all it needed and now drives like a dream. Next I need tire pressure monitor system.

I have Michelin LTX MS2 on my Jeep and they are the best tire that been on it. Going on 4 years and going strong with 50,000 miles on them. Would be nice to get a free set after running those many miles but the size of the recall is different.

I got a phone call this morning that they came in. Would of gone in to get them on but the truck bay was full of tires that just got dropped off. First thing tomorrow morning I will get them put on. Afterwards I be going to the alignment shop to check alignment.

When I drive through Canada this summer I flip the switch on to the driving lights. They go on and off with the ignition switch so no worry to forget them as they are automatic on with ignition on.

I ordered Michelin tires for my coach on July 30, size 275/70R22.5 load range J. I heard today that they might come in on the 12th to the dealer. Is this tire size tire hard to get, or does it have something to do with the advantage program? I hate to have a blowout and be stranded for two week for hard to get tire.

I reset my 1200 Norcold with recall with a magnet because it didn't like indoor truck wash smell of soap. Still works fine after reset. Took about a day to get in touch with dealer to find out how to reset.

Rich and Lois, I have almost 29,350 miles on this 2006 coach as second owner. I put 10,000 miles on it myself since I got it about a year ago. After investigating more deeply I found I been running the front tires low on air and possible the rear since they have the same wear pattern. The front tires are supposed to be 115 PSI and the rear 95 PSI. I was running 95 PSI front and rear and possible why I have more wear on the outside edges. I also noticed that the same size tires recommended by Michelin for my coach is a load range J not H as the Goodyear tires are. That may be the second reason they worn more on the outside edges????

I have same issues With my 2006 HR Ambassador with the Goodyear tires. The reason I order Michelin so not to happen again. Guess what, same mileage as yours. I'm taking it to an alignment shop once those front tires are replaced but don't think alignment is the problem. The rear tires are not too far behind with right rear outer tire cupped like the front.