huffypuff

I have XtraRide and they been good to me so far as I used them twice and they paid. My coach is going in to Camping World of Burlington, WA Tuesday for same reason as Jack except mine has $200 deductible and freight. They may cover the road service to get the gear up if I submit it as part of the claim. If not I have Good Sam roadside assistance to send it to. Would of been there last Tuesday but I refused to drive it in the rain after cleaning it up.

Herman, I believe it's cheaper and better to convert to residential refrigerator. I know that what I will do when mine bite the dust which I hope isn't too soon. The trick is getting the old one out and the new one in.

Deen, I can see my cats with claws trying to grab the wipers to hang on for dear life.

I looked and it shows doors not seals. You can check the two pages in link below. http://appli1-vmweb03.inetuhosted.net/SearchProducts.aspx?modelNumber=DM2862LBX-958530298

I not sure what lines my coach is equipped with but I had a freeze of the basement month-half ago in Twin Falls, ID at 8 F because basement heater failed. The Markings on is 160 psi burst @ 73.4 F 100 psi @ 180 F and is a clear white tint with brass fittings. It had no damage and was thawed out as we got near Las Vegas, NV.

Some have signs posted that states "no overnight parking". There is a reason that location don't want overnight parking there so best no to ask and move on for respect. We have one in Bellingham, WA right across the street from a campground that would be conflicting against that campground if they allow it. That's being a good neighbor.

OK I check the website at PacBrake and what I have on my coach. I have older style PacBrake serial 008073 on the coach so this confirms my belief that it was weak because only effective at high RPMs There is 4 different replacement PRXB for ISC engine. If I order one I would like to get the correct one the first time. The serial number didn't help with web search.

I know that I don't have an exhaust leak for one of the first thing I check since I have a Cummins in it. I'm also lucky to have a two piece manifold so less likely to crack in the future. It's not really bad once I slow it down a bit it seems to hold well unless grade is very steep but I'm always up for an upgrade is needed. I need to check to see what unit is in it.

I always felt the exhaust brake was weaker than I would expect it to be on my coach. I would exchanged it but I worry about my extended service plan if not factory installed unit.

Looking at the picture of your RV I know that the frame can handle 5,000 lbs or more towing. But with the added weight of the motorhome that reduces what the drivetrain and brakes can handle to a level as flat towing a small car. That may be the reason for the whimpy hitch. It would be best to weigh your motorhome to get the gross vehicle weight fully loaded as you would travel then look up the Gross Combined allowable vehicle weight and subtract the difference. That would be the amount of weight you can tow. My previous 34' 5.9L dp couldn't tow more than 4,000 lbs because it would exceeded the combine weight of drivetrain and brakes. I wouldn't dare exceed it because I know I would be out of luck if there was an emergency stop or being able to handle a steep grade.

I believe the switch is internal of the icemaker that comes on as the motor rotates the fingers to remove the ice. I try to recall how the icemaker works. First the icemaker must get cold enough to trip a thermostat to run a motor and turn on the heating element to aid in the removal of the ice. The motor turns a plastic gear that is attached to fingers to move the ice and cam to turn on a microswitch. The microswitch supplies power to the water valve as the cycle nears the end as the heating element also warmed the thermostat to turn off. There is a operational test you can do in the link Rich supplied will guide you to the fix. I think an RV parts place would only get you a replacement icemaker but you can try an appliance parts store for parts. This icemaker looks like a common one used for years in households refrigerators.

RJ from my experience, when a belt tensioner make noise whether the spring or bearing, it is best to replace it. If the spring moves enough to make noise that means the spring has weakening. What can happen down the road is increase belt wear and possibility of the belt getting thrown off when least expected.

Sorry if it appeared if I attacked anyone, but I also got an nasty email from same person. Otherwise I would have left the thread alone. I also must note that this thread went a different way than the original posted intended.

I only have 45 years of experience as a mechanic and 30 of them with fleet so I know what I talk about. I was being kind when I said maintenance of a diesel was about the same as a gasser. Maintenance of a diesel is less than a a gasser. When I worked at fleet we did oil changes on fleet gasser twice as much as diesel. The fuel and air filters on gassers 15,000 miles, 30,000 miles on diesel. The EPA is the reason that oil change is extended to 7500 miles. There is so many engine going bad that dealers such as GM change the oil free for the customers for the first 50,000 miles. They have a certain certified oil that must be used or warranty is void. When working at fleet the gassers were best to get rid of just over 100,000 miles, the diesel last over twice the mileages. I talked to owners with v-10 fords and best they get is 6 mpg in a 28 footer, ouch!

My Norcold has 2 plugs, one for the icemaker and another for the refrigerator heating element. They are plugged into separate outlets as they are fused separately.

I looked it up on Netflix and it's not up for streaming so out of luck unless rental which I don't do.

I got the two access hatches yesterday and I can't believe the difference with old and new being the same part number. Seems like whoever installed these cut out the bottom almost two inches to make inserting hoses and cords easier. Also they did't use any type of seal on the flange. Well I will be installing the new ones with butyl tape seal around the flange and leaving the bottom intact.

The inverter charger has breakers also to check for such as an popped out 10/15 amp buttons.

When you have the belt off, briefly start the engine and see if the noise goes away. That means cold engine and run no more than a few minutes. If the noise goes away then it is either a pulley bearing or belt. If you still have noise then it's something else.

Brett that is a nice link you posted there and you are right, I should known and check the filters even though the dealer said the coach was turn key. I didn't think that I had any reason to look behind the a/c condenser but I did when the leveling system gave problems. I did change the air filter and oil and filter after the Alaskan tour because going through the Yukon road construction was a filthy mess. It's due for another oil change after my holiday tour. Ernie I never had any engine performance problem but when I started the engine after changing both fuel filters it had to burp. I tried bleeding the filters by cycling the key several times and using a hand pump with little success. Finally I removed both filters and filled them as I didn't want to take a chance of getting the engine air bound. I won't know if the high mileage filters are clogging but I'm sure they are beyond their service requirement.

When I brought my coach at 19,000 miles I told the dealer to replace all the filters. When I had a breakdown with the jacks I had to open the side a/c condenser and swing it out for access to the hydraulic pump. Also in there I found two filters that weren't changed as in still original from the factory. I had since in the 14 months I owned this coach put an additional 19,000 miles on it. Can you imagine my horror knowing there is 38,000 miles on the primary fuel/water separator and the air brakes/air bag suspension air dryer? Needless to say I changed both filters today, got them cheaper through O'Reilly's and order the replacement dryer filter. Lesson learned, never trust a dealer to watch your back. I'm am lucky that these filters didn't give me any trouble.

One: Ray Huffman Two: U.S. Army Three: 3 years, 1970 - 1973 Four: SP5 highest rank Five: Helicopter repairman Six: Ft Rucker, AL, Vietnam, Chi Lia, Dang Na, Ft Campbell, KY, 101 Airborne

How about using a child gate behind the front seats to keep the pet away from the front? They make them out of plastic now so it wont scratch anything.

I got 9.5 with my DP 8.3L ISC towing my Jeep Liberty diesel which adds 4500 lbs to 33000 loaded weight of the MH. The secret is to cruise about 1500 rpm just above max toque band so your not lugging it. Above 1500 rpm you will just waste fuel. Oil change on diesel could go as much as 15,000 miles, gasser 3000 miles so that cancel out oil changing more. Diesel gets 30 percent better mileage than gasser and if the gasser uses premium fuel cost more than diesel. You can get a Pilot or Flying J card for discount on diesel. Maintenance on diesel pusher fuel and air filters every 20,000 miles no different than gasser. Change spark plugs on a Ford V-10 and you think you are being charged for an overhaul. No need to ask me how I know.

I wouldn't do it. Good luck.</p>