jleamont

abyrd, I already had it but never used it. Once I completed our install I read the manual and set it up just as a precaution. Call your inverter co and ask them if a kit is available. I have the Xantrex RC7GS monitor/control inside.

Kay, I have been there...heck every road trip I'm there, who am I kidding! Usually I just laugh sometimes it gets under my skin. I constantly run the right lane at 63 mph (best MPG) unless the speed limit is lower of course. Usually it is someone pulling a camper trailer (and I really hate to stereotype but the DW and I on every trip have this conversation..... this is what we look like in the front seats.....), they are usually all over the road in the first place. It seems like they see a large DP and think they have something to prove as they pass us at 75 or more they always look like they are in a race to get somewhere, then I blow them into the median as they pass us. I drive looking in front of me and around me at all times, when I see them coming I snicker and tell the DW....Wait ...for...it... look at this genius ! I could write a book on what our dash cam records. My coach tends to push everyone that tries to pass us also (only a tractor trailer with a van trailer do I have to lean on the wheel ever so slightly, but so does he), so I don't have to compensate for most, but rather watch them start to loose it and get out of the way. While on our last trip in Maine, one tried the same with an 18 wheeler, that had traffic all messed up for hours on I-95 in New Hampshire. Herman, I always blink to truckers passing, and I usually get a marker light blink back to say thank you. My smart wheel has the flash buttons on it and I use them often. Sometimes they blink for me which is nice. I will NOT follow a camper trailer unless I dissect it when it passes and it looks like its set up properly, the tow vehicle is of the proper spec for the size of the trailer, I will just slow down so they get away from me. Same trip as above a Dodge Caravan passed us pulling a 27' - 31' TT. Van bumper on the ground, chains and hitch bouncing off the asphalt, at the top of the next hill on I-84 there it was broke down....who didn't see that coming . Cant fix ....well you know

OK. let me help get some use out of that DP.....I'm headed to Gettysburg in Sept for a Chili Cook-off contest at a CG, you and your DW should come up for the weekend. I will email you the details.

Anyone watch The Big Bang theory? Episode where they were testing the space toilet with meatloaf? Sorry...... This topic reminds me of this episode....

Is this your first trip out this year?

Marty, the convertor is usually located behind the fuse box, but that will depend where the fuse box is located. My last coach had the fuse box on the dinette booth in the walkway under the forward facing bench, under the cushions behind all of that was the Convertor. it should have battery cables coming off one side and a power cord or romex wiring on the other. It will resemble this;

I have seen in campgrounds what looked like previous FEMA trailers. No decals and only one or two windows. They have an odd look to them, not like a normal TT.

I started out with a dolly due to the vehicle I had at the time, worked ok. I didn't like trying to find a spot for it and the safety chains were a pain to connect laying on the ground, it got old real fast. Switched over to 4 wheels down when we bought the jeep. If I were to bring a golf cart, motorcycle etc. I would switch back to a set up like Kay. I had the opportunity to demo one of these tandem axle dollies and it was pretty neat. When I had my boat I had a golf cart set up built on the boat trailer tongue. So I get it... brining all of the toys with you . http://www.tandem-tow.com/Models.htm

marty57, I had to reread your original post and start over. It sounds to me your convertor has failed as Kay mentioned above, your voltages are not right to charge that battery and if it was plugged in should have maintained the battery charge level. Check the power coming into it to make sure it has 120vac coming in, if not comfortable with a volt meter working on 120 vac plug a desk lamp into the socket, or a drill and see how well it operates. Obviously this test will only work if its plugged in and not hard wired. I have replaced them both ways in the past. Reconnect the battery turn on 12v loads inside the unit, you should hear the convertor ramp up (the older style tend to be noisy while working hard) with the fan running, then recheck your voltages at your house battery and report back. The reason everything works when the coach engine is running is the isolator is switching over from the convertor circuit to your alternator on the engine, sounds like that isolator is working as it should, you can check that also by running the coach engine and checking power at the house battery, you may have to leave the volt meter on there and keep an eye on it as some systems will switch back and forth between the chassis and house battery. Based off of the year of your unit my guess is you only have a basic convertor (aka charger), not a convertor/inverter. Its not uncommon for those to fail over time and they are not terribly expensive, the last one I bought was under $200.00. You could also have the same symptom if you run your generator, since if its wired like I suspect it just powers up the 120v line to the Convertor also, so your house battery will not charge on generator also.

I'd bet the interiors are trashed by now from water leaks. Rubber roof sitting in the sun that long with no routine maintenance can't be good.

What year make and model is your coach? I posted more photos in the gallery, you can really see the lights now.

I have been reading these directly off of their website. some of it is a stretch but accurate non the less. 2 years ago walking through our local RV dealer for parts I often will browse the showroom just to see what's there. I saw a new Winnebago DP with a tag axle, I looked up inside was wowed by the bling, so I had to walk in, one side the slides were out, the other they were in. I got curious what they used on top of their slides as a roof, since ours has a Stainless steel cap the extends down the side wall, I stuck my hand up there and OUCH....I got pricked by a staple sticking up, with that I noticed there was nothing but bare wood, I guess the slide topper really has a serious responsibility

Carl, Welcome! You sound like you are in a similar situation to us. Two kids in high school here, one with her sights on College soon. We also love exploring in our motorhome and traveling the US. Joe

Yep, there are RV boneyards around, some of the junk I have seen sitting around would'nt be accepted there either... Tear it down burn what you can and scrap the metal, I see no other way. maybe a local junk man would just come and pick it up? I have a guy like that I can call, he'll take anything.

I was thinking about the scrap value to recycle a trailer RV. Since its mostly wood there really isn't any value in that approach. Pay to remove it sounds more realistic. That could be why you see so many around, up in these parts you have to be careful where you book a site, most "Campgrounds" or "Resort Campgrounds" are trailer parks trying to earn some extra cash. You will find these old trailers decaying into the landscape, not my idea of a fun packed weekend with the family. Like I mentioned above, unless the web site tells me otherwise stay clear.......! Oh yea, almost forgot to mention, the term "Beach House" up here is also used loosely, go to watch out for that also.... "Beach House" = Old camper trailer in a trailer park 10 miles from the actual Beach, for photos watch an episode of COPS!

I do not doubt that some on there would be tuff to deal with, so far I haven't dealt with anyone like that.

CarlBrothers, that is interesting that they offer that from the factory. I am very impressed by this. You said it best they just leave the chassis as it came from the factory, which is interesting since most often they will stretch it and overload it.

I have found.....so far anyway that most respond based off of how you ask questions. I have found a few folks on there to be very nice and helpful.

Brett, that's my fear. After speaking to the dealer that has done a few coaches and a bunch of Dodge Rams I felt better. They were kind enough to share their experiences with me, good and bad. They have only completed two ISL's several ISM's and a bunch of ISC and ISB coaches. None of theirs relocated the pump close to the tank on a DP. Apparently I'm fortunate to have space to relocate the separator and the pump down stream and have open access to the fuel tank. Fass recommend the placement of the pump as close to the tank as possible which on a Monaco works out since the next compartment forward is my power distribution. locating a ignition circuit should be simple, plus I have a bunch of open fuse spaces for adding circuits so I can make it look like it belongs. Bill I'm shocked how many Rams have had this done and how many companies make kits to do it on those. Most include performance upgrades which I have no interest in. I just want it to stay together and go down the road.

Brett, thank you for the response and I understand, I am glad you responded! When I spoke to Cummins and asked them if I could send positive pressure into the existing lift pump they told me absolutely not. Something is weak inside, they wouldn't elude to what but the weak link is on the inlet side (I pried), I believe the check ball is plastic and will break apart and go through to the next filter. I would love to see a cut away of that pump. The CAPS pump will accept up to 25 PSI (per Cummins), what it doesn't need it will return to the tank with no problems. The pump I ordered is the same one the RV dealer I spoke to swears by (I didn't want to be the test pigeon), its adjustable and the factory setting is 17PSI. I spoke to an injection pump rebuilder that is local, he bench tests the CAPS pumps (on the larger engines) at 25 PSI for an integrity test. Since the factory lift pump supplies 7 psi and the CAPS needs 10 minimum for proper lube and cooling...... which baffles me since there is no PSI coming to it now, its just volume that no one including Cummins has a spec on record. New pump link; http://www.fassride.com/detail/diesel-fuel-pumps/adjustable-diesel-fuel-pumps/adjustable-dodge-ram-cummins/adjustable-fuel-pump-95-gph-dodge-cummins-1998-1999-2000-2001-2002-2003-2004.php I thought about building a manifold to connect the return lines (one from the head, one from the CAPS pump and the 1/2" hose that actually feeds the tank) but the more I thought about it...I already have it. So two 5/8 JIC female plugs for the lines and I am done. Since I changed that pump in 2014 those were the two that were actually simple to access, when I pull my floor they are right there.

After some intense research I have decided to modify the existing fuel system design to eliminate the root cause for the CAPS fuel injection pump failure which is low fuel pressure to the fuel injection pump. I spoke to a RV repair facility that has done several of these, the longest running unit has been out for over 7 years and has accumulated just shy of 75,000 miles with no problems. This unit had two previous CAPS pump failures, none since. After doing my research speaking to one ISL owner that modified his I think I am going to tackle this for insurance. Here is my reason; the factory design of the Fuel injection pump pulling/sucking fuel from the tank 40' in front of it through a pump that shuts off after 30 seconds and through two filters is crazy, it strains the pump and it ultimately starves itself causing it to self destruct. The conversion will give the system a pump close to the fuel tank that constantly runs supplying filtered fuel to the CAPS injection pump so it doesn't starve and will always have fuel coming at it when the ignition is on. My plan is to relocate my primary filter/separator in the fuel tank bay with the pump mounted just after it, pushing fuel down to the engine's secondary filter then onto the CAPS injection pump. All returned fuel will remain as designed by Cummins and be routed from the Cylinder head and CAPS pump back to the tank via the Cummins lift pump that will be there only to serve as a manifold where the returned fuel all meets up to go back to the fuel tank. The factory lift pump will be capped where the original fuel supply lines connect (so the returned fuel does not leak out and its all sealed up) the electrical connection get's unplugged, the connector gets a relay plugged into it so the ECM see's a draw, assumes its the lift pump and doesn't set a fault code or turn the engine light on, I am remote mounting the relay in my rear electrical bay just as if the factory put it there. I will incorporate a electronic fuel gauge into the design for my coach and put it in the dash as if it came that way from Holiday Rambler so I can monitor fuel pressure, when it drops I will know its time to spin new filters on, no more guessing or waiting for it to starve the pump and begin to buck. All parts are on order except any hoses I will have to make up for the installation so far the tally is at $750.00 this will be the most cost effective insurance policy yet for this coach. CAPS design; ISL,ISM,ISX the lift pump shuts off after 30 seconds (just to prime the system) and relies on the injection pump suction to feed itself with this design you cannot install an aftermarket warning system to alert you of a problem since you only have fuel pressure for the first 30 seconds. There is no ECM strategy to turn the pump on when fuel volume is low, fuel flow is not monitored, in fact the only item monitored is the lift pump if there is an electrical draw, if its working or not it has no idea, it just will cause the $5500.00 injection pump (parts only not labor) to self destruct. ISB and ISC; the ECM will regulate the lift pump and send fuel to the Injection pump as needed. The ECM on these will often not supply enough fuel to the injection pump causing them to fail or the lift pump just fails and you might not realize it since the injection pump will also pull fuel to itself, just not enough. BD diesel makes a kit with a dash mounted alarm incase fuel pressure drops below 5 psi, so you have a chance in saving yourself the cost of an injection pump replacement. If you have any questions feel free to ask, I have so many notes and diagrams for My ISL engine bay layout I feel like a Cummins engineer that actually did his or her job .