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Shutoff valves are usually found on or near the engine water pump. Perhaps it started to leak and the previous owner shut the valve off. Usually the easiest short term fix, and then it was sold or traded.

You have had four wives???? You gotta be kidding. If not what a guy!!!

Who was closest to the possible problem? When your ECM fails, the engine turns over but there are few if any warning lights that go through the start cycle. In my case there were none and I am guessing that is probably the norm. Luckily the OP after a lot of worry, found a tech in Mexico that identified a bad ground. Battery change/who knows? The easiest observable symptom would be no warning lights. Just a thought!

Have two on our Freightliner chassis. One is turn signals and other is 4ways. Very easy to get to/ along the steering column just under the dash. I carry spares and they are the electronic type designed to work with light electrical loads as in LED lamps.

When I login with my username displayed I sometimes drop down the page to check who else is on. Just me/ no guests/ no anonymous. Am I about to be eliminated even though my dues is current?

The primer pump is a familiar item to me. I have run a lot of big yellow engines. My question about the check valve/return line coming out of the back. No experience with one because probably no trouble with one. Last rig had a hand operated check valve that had to closed before changing primary and secondary on a series 60. Next time I visit our Phaeton , I will have to move the bed, and take a look at the return setup. Should know in the event of a problem.

Joe/ I know that you have worked on Cats. Primer pump/ easily recognized. The rear facing regulator is not familiar to me. The return line on the 60 comes out the back. Probably the same on all diesels.

Dave or Brett/ Is there a similar regulator/check valve assembly on a 2003 Cat 3126E. Have not observed the primer pump on ours. Very familiar with them on 3406E and C-15s. Cat even prefers the filter be installed empty and primed with the pump. Been there done that. Up to fifty strokes. Just curious for future reference.

I lost an ECM on a series 60 once. No instrument lights at all. The engine turned over willingly but no fire. If memory serves it was close to $2000 plus the tow bill and labor. A Cat might cost more. If the fuses are good but you have no warning lights on the panel that could be it. Mine failed enroute. Good Luck. Hope it is something simple.

To me/ a pressure regulator is a must. There are parks with high water pressure that will cause a leak without one. I remember being warned by the owner of the KOA in Limon Colorado about high water pressure. Was told that city systems were being upgraded to higher pressures to help Fire Departments in Colorado. Sprung a leak in Lake City Colorado without using a regulator. Was told by the owner that local pressure was really high. A newly purchased regulator solved the problem. A cheap fix that is worth a try.

Mirrors removed/ must be a woman thing. My DW insists on covering the one overlooking the dinette with a large calendar. I like them because I am so handsome ???and they add depth to a coach.

Accumulator tank/ had a big one in our first coach. Possibly bigger than Hermans. Fresh water tank was under the bed and so was the pump. Installed the tank with a tee and pressurized it to 35psi. Could get a one gallon draw down with the pump off. Helped us sleep when either partner needed a flush in the wee small hours of the morning. The rear heater had a feed into that area. It truly was a winter time coach. In many ways, for it's time , Georgie Boy was ahead of many similary priced units.

When I wrote my response, I mentioned that Baker City can be cold this time of the year. I checked the current temp at 11:00 AM today in Baker City. It was 5 degrees. Places like that need extra measures to avoid freeze ups.

Our 2003 Phaeton has a switch by the entry steps that shuts down most everything 12 volts including the front and rear thermostats. Just throwing this out there. In spite of the mobile mechanic's diagnosis, could there be such a switch in your mom's RV? Perhaps a pet bumped it or mom did accidentally. Sounds too simple but have not heard the switch mentioned.

Bill/ why? A heavy duty fifty amp socket permanently mounted in a convenient place to hook a hard wired power cord. I remember our Georgie Boy. Could not have been simpler to use and nothing to wear out. Some transfer switches are quite pricey. Just throwing this out there for consideration by people that like simplicity and dependability. It worked very well for me for years.

My power cord was hard wired into the coach on the delivery end. It was idiot proof. Plug into the pedestal in the park or plug into genset output before you head out in case you want to microwave something or run a roof top A/C, etc. I wish that our Phaeton was wired that way. Might take a look at doing that, but the job jar is already kinda full.

Another thought/ I have mentioned this before, but! Our first Class A was a 1988 Georgie Boy Cruise Aire II. It was wired for 50 amp service and had a gas generator that would run both A/C s, the converter, and a microwave at the same time. No transfer switch. When you unhooked from park power you plugged the power supply cord into the output socket of the generator. Could not be simpler and more reliable. I looked into the transfer switch that failed, and compared the blades on the 50 amp cord to the relay contacts. The transfer switch looked rather delicate, which in my mind "begs the question/ why do they exist?" When you are back there, how much trouble is to easily plug the cord into the genset's power out plug. No time lost at all. Kinda makes me scratch my head!!!?

Had to install a new transfer switch before we took our first trip. Worked OK for genset to power the a/c while I was working in and around the 11 year old unit. If I was not a member of this forum, I wouldn't have known what to do. Agree with Brett-- as you get to know the unit things will probably smooth out.

I mentioned the possibility of the Grapevine being messy in the winter. Already happened and the season is young. The Grapevine was closed for several hours due to snow on New Year's Eve .

One other suggestion. Don't use cheap plastic hose. Spend a little extra for quality rubber hose. Much easier to use and recoil, especially on cold mornings. I use a 25 foot section, because it is easy to relocate the compressor plugged in with an extension cord.

Former owner of our coach towed an older Honda Civic Manual. Might have been under 3000 lbs. No auxiallry braking needed.

We use the UPS store nearby. Postal service forwards 1st and 2nd class there for free for our two to three month trips, and we call for forwarding via Big Brown when we think that it is time. Agree with Bill on payments. All of our important ones are automatically deducted from our checking account. I pay my credit card invoice in full, monthly by talking to a female robot. Quick and painless and no charge for the service.

David/ what year is your coach? Sometimes the older ones seem to have a lot of slack in the slide protector awnings. Ours is a 2003 which makes it old, but everything functions properly on the covers. They are tight. Had one replaced because it was delaminating, but local rv repair shop made a new one for us and adjusted it properly. Have been in some thunderstorm situations with no problems.

Used truck air compressors for years. Now that I have a dependable source of 120vac. I carry a small compressor bought at Home Depot. Six gallon Porter with adjustable pressure up to 150psi. Not much over $100 if memory serves. Air chuck I use is the same style used at tire shops; push it on the valve stem and angle it downward. Stays on by itself. Much easier than using the engine compressor in my estimation.

Agree with Bill. Have had the light come on while setting and then go off a short time after starting a drive.