moonwink

Down in the lower right corner on that section is a link to the fine print. It's a two year commitment and full price is due if you cancel. The big thing I noticed was the requirement to have a "qualifying voice line" or the price doubles. "Video streaming at up to 1.5Mbps (no streaming for wearables) may affect speed of video downloads" Also read about the upfront costs - paying the sales tax which in my area is about 10% of the $336 cost of the Inseego and a few others might mean around $100 or more to start. Just a couple of stumbling blocks there. If you check it out, let us know what you find out.

I go to that page you provided the link for but can't find any mention of 100Gb for 50/mo plan. The plans on that page are for phones.

Have you tried looking at the "owner's manual" for how it should be towed. That's the best place for factual information.

Then go with them and quit ragging on this forum about the FMCA plan. Are you getting a commission and extra T-shirts for those you move over to Calyx?

If they haven't been shut off already, June 30th will be their last day.

If money is no object, the FMCA TechConnect plan is not for you. I'd recommend you buy service from every carrier so you can cover all the bases. All I need is decent speed wherever I'm parked. I've had many disappointments with speeds that couldn't move the Speedtest needle off "0". I wish I didn't have to cancel my planned trip this week so I haven't been able to try again. I'd be tickled with 12Mb speeds.

This should be a topic by itself. This thread is all about FMCA's Technet - AT&T related issues.

I received my "Moxee" hotspot a couple of days ago. After installing the SIM card and battery and charging it up, I changed the SID and password to make it my own. The next thing I did was a speedtest. I'm setting in my sticks and bricks house doing this. I thought the signal looked pretty fair, about 3 bars but the throughput looks awful. I've attached the results of the first test - a second test looked similar. No one is going to be happy with these speeds and I wouldn't expect them to. I'm going out next week Monday-Friday to a site where my old Spring/T-Mobile worked fine. If I get the same results, I'll be cancelling this plan. No sense in paying for something that's useless.

Herman, I'm not convinced I'm the one that screwed up and even if I did, SafeRide's record keeping system should have caught the duplication. They never sent renewals twice for the different accounts they claim they set up and I always entered my membership number when renewing. Clearly, they don't care as long as they're coming out on the plus side. The end result is that after switching to them from CoachNet several years ago, I'm out a full year's worth of coverage. This should be investigated and corrected so others aren't given the same treatment. I could understand if this had happened on one occasion but it's happening every time I renew.

It will be interesting to find out. I had mine paused 4 months while they only charged me $13.99/month this past winter. During that time, I received the replacement hotspot to replace my Sprint device. It was the Alcatel Linkzone 2. When I went to use it in April, it connected to T-Mobile just fine and put out a WiFi signal but would not it would not let anything through so I had to switch to my phone's hotspot option. When I got ahold of of FMCA's support staff, they said they were in the process of sending replacement Franklin T9 devices. He said he was sending out a fix for the Alcatel unit but I never tried it after that. I had to swap the SIM card to the new Franklin hotspot when it arrived so I'll never know if the fix for the Alcatel worked or not.

I think the product jimgunn is referring to is "Towed Battery Charger Plus for flat towing" https://rvibrake.com/products/towed-battery-charger-plus

My records show I've been a member of FMCA's SafeRide RV Motor Club since May 3, 2017 when I paid $109 for a one year membership. (Year 1) I renewed that membership for one year $69 on November 2, 2017 when the special lower price was announced. (Year 2) I again renewed for 3 years this time at the special lower price of $207 (3 x $69) on April 22, 2018. (Years 3-4-5) 3 years later I renewed for 1 year on February 26, 2021 for $159. (Year 6) I recently renewed for another year on April 30, 2022 for $159. This membership was to expire one year from the date I renewed (April 30, 2023). (Year 7) 7 years from May 3, 2017 would be May 3, 2024. My current coverage ends May 3, 2023. I've paid for a total of 7 years service. Because of SafeRide's terrible record keeping, they kept terminating my previous membership every time I renewed and treating my renewal as a new membership. Over the past 6 years, I've lost a full year's coverage. I know all the dates and costs are correct because I've still got my credit card statements. The SafeRide website is terrible and offers no way of contacting them. When you renew, you select either a new membership or a returning membership renewal. Even though I tried to renew, they treat my payment as if I'm a new member and once again show the date of renewal as the date the membership will expire one year from that date. I used the contact page on the FMCA website over the weekend and received a call from a SafeRide representative this afternoon. She claimed the problem was all my fault because I keep signing up as a new member instead of renewing and wouldn't listen to me when I said I never did that. I told her the SafeRide website (which is dated 2014) was a piece of trash and should be updated. She went way out of her way to credit me with 4 days to restore my previous expiration date. Wow! How nice was that. When I pressed her about the lost year of membership, she said that it would be FMCA's responsibility after I told her I'd renewed a couple of times at the SafeRide booth at rallies. She said I was at an FMCA booth and told her no I wasn't. She steadfastly refused to make it right for me. They're records don't go back that far I suppose. So I"m out a full year's membership because of the way they handled my renewals. As my "expiring" memberships ran out, they never once contacted me. Each time I paid, I gave them my account number. They never once matched it up with my account to extend my membership. I've only had occasion to call them twice in all these years. Once for jump when my battery connection acted up and once to air up my inner dual after the valve stem extender failed and the tire came off the rim. In that instance, they took 1-1/2 hours to respond and by then, I'd manage to take the tire off, got it to take air again and put it back on before they showed up. (I had nothing else to do while I was waiting anyway.) No sooner than I cancelled the call, than the truck showed up at the campground I was stuck in but they never contracted me. I'm happy enough with their coverage but SafeRide's record keeping leaves a lot to be desired. My advice to everyone is to be sure to watch those dates when you "renew" coverage and make sure you get a full year's coverage for your money.

I got my Alcatel Linkzone 2 out for the first time a couple of days ago after it's winter hiatus. I found that while it had a good signal showing and I could connect to it, I had absolutely no throughput. I tried calling FMCA's support number but got a recording saying they were snowed under trying to give assistance to everyone so I left a voice mail explaining my trouble and a call back number. I used the hotspot feature on my phone to access the support page on the FMCA website and found a page telling about all the problems the Alcatel Linkzone 2 was experiencing. I filled in the form with all my information and expect to soon receive a replacement Franklin T9. I understand there's lots of changes going on at T-Mobile right now which makes for "interesting times" with the FMCA TechConnect program. I'll report back after I receive my new hotspot. Ancient Chinese Curse: "May you live in interesting times" 😁

The 3G shutdown will affect everyday devices you probably own The link above is for a recent segment on CNN about the 3G shutdown. Mine goes through my WiFi router and cable provider. I would think if you're paying for a cell service connection for your security system, the provider would have to furnish a new device just as TechConnect did.

I see no reason why you couldn't use your TechConnect device at your home while you are there but the 5G Home Internet is associated with a fixed location. The only problem I'd have with that is loosing Internet at the house for my Ring Camera Security system when I leave. So I let Spectrum rip me off for $75 every month for internet service only.

I found on my 2004 Trek MH on a F53 chassis that the chassis battery didn't get any charge except with the engine running. I installed a BatteryMinder "float charger" from Northern Tool and that's solved my problem. Whenever I'm connected to shore power, the BatteryMinder keeps the chassis battery fully charged and the Xantrex 458 inverter keeps the house batteries charged.

You might be able to find a YouTube video to help you replace the spring and tension it. Not knowing the brand of your slide topper there's no a lot more anyone can offer in the way of help.

Are you asking about a WiFi hotspot or a cell phone? You've titled this post "WIFI" but seem to be asking about cell service. FMCA does offer a WiFi hotspot under the title of TechConnect. The service is through Sprint, costs $49.99 a month with no contract and is TRULY UNLIMITED. No slowdowns like the other offerings by major carriers who throttle your speeds after a few GB every month.

Another vote for FMCA's TechConnect here. $49.99/month with truly unlimited/un-throttled service.

I used a bra for awhile on one car. They're not practical at all. You really need to have the car clean before putting them on. If the car isn't clean, the felt lining will rub the grime off and grind it into your paint. Ditto on making sure the full width flap is 4-5 inches high on level ground or it will kick up rocks from the payment as you drive making things worse. I've been using a Protect-a-Tow for many years now. At first, I was putting it under the towbar but my towbar tabs are so low and my overhang so long, I scraped holes in my first one. I replaced it and now stretch it over the towbar these days. It works great that way. I like the Protect-a-Tow because it's easy and quick to put on or take off plus it stores away in a small bag when not in use. Regardless of you're using, when driving in the rain, your towed is going to be covered in grime. It never seems to rain hard enough to wash that stuff off.

I'd say start with EasyTouch. The WiFi signal being broadcast by the MiFi has nothing to do with 5G. If your MiFi is set for only the 5Ghz band instead of 2.4Ghz band, that could be a problem but EasyTouch would be the best place to ask what type of WiFi frequency their device can connect to. Each network can be accessed over two bands: 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz: • The 2.4 GHz band is supported by all devices with Wi-Fi and should be used by devices that are a few years old or older. This band passes through walls better and propagates over longer distances, so it may have a longer range. • The 5 GHz band is best for newer devices. It offers better throughput, reduced interference and faster data speeds, but does not pass through walls as well as the 2.4 GHz band. EasyTouch RV Thermostat Installation, Quick Start Guide and Operation Manual http://www.micro-air.com/support-documents/EasyTouchRV/EasyTouchRV.pdf See page 8: Connect the device to the internet Select Bluetooth and select your thermostat. When the thermostat connects, select settings from the top of the screen. Select Connect to WIFI (Android) or Edit WIFI settings (Apple). Enter your network name (SSID) and password. The device will reset and connect to the internet on reset. The smart device will return to the selection screen when the signal is lost. Connecting with WIFI Use WIFI whenever you are not within Bluetooth range of your thermostat. A connection requires only that the thermostat and the smart device have internet connections and are connected to the account. http://www.micro-air.com/products_easytouch_rv_thermostat_touchscreen.cfm Contact EasyTouch here: Allentown, NJ 08501 Mon-Thur 8am - 4:30pm ET Fri 8am - 4pm ET 609-259-2636 5G MiFi M2000 User Guide - (see page 23) https://www.sprint.com/content/dam/sprint/us/en/device-assets/inseego/inseego-5g/documents/Inseego-5G-MiFi-M2000-User-Guide.pdf

Whatever brake solution you use, you'll want it to be fully proportional. Meaning you don't want the brakes on your towed applied any stronger than necessary. I favorite solution is the ReadyBrake from NSA. You can buy one of their towbars with the ReadyBrake built into it or buy the ReadyBrake by itself and use it with any towbar. It doesn't require any electric. It used the weight of the towed to pull on the brake pedal. The harder the towed pushes on the MH, the harder it pulls on the brake pedal. Yes, you'll still need a wiring harness to have the tail lights work after dark. Your stop lights will work off your brake pedal but I always use a set of diodes in the wiring to the stop/tail lights to wire in the MH stop/tail lights to towed. I think I've seen some wireless systems advertised but not sure if they're fully self contained with their own battery or rely on the towed's battery. (disclaimer: I am in no way connected to NSA - just a very satisfied user) Here's a link to one of their towbars with an antimated gif showing how it works: https://www.readybrake.com/store/p284/Ready_Brute_Elite_II.html

All I had to do with my F53 20,500 lb chassis was the CHF (cheap handling fix). Before I did that, it felt top heavy. Since doing it, it's rock solid. I did have to replace the swaybar bushings with polyurethane type because of the additional forces placed on the OEM swaybars after the change. I also replaced the stiff Bilstein shocks with the KONI FSD shocks all the way around. They helped smooth out the ride quite a bit. Unfortunately, they can't make up for the horrible shape of many of the roads I've traveled where the concrete slabs no longer match (I-65 in Birmingham, AL & I-55 north of West Memphis, AR & I-40 west of Flagstaff, AZ).

That is just a local reminder that can be set to any number you want it to be. I think I set mine to 10,000Gb so it won't bark at me again - problem solved.

You're saying you've got good flow after a minute but the water get cold. That would indicate it's not coming from the water heater. If it were the check valve, the flow would slow down or stop if it were malfunctioning. I'd guess the winter bypass valves aren't completely set for summer and preventing full flow through the water heater. What happens when only the hot water faucet is opened? Some bypass setups have a check valve on the back of the water heater at the bypass valve. Is that the check valve you looked at? Others have 3 valves that must be turned for winter bypass.