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Thanks for all of the prompt replies! I initially considered JB Weld but wasn't sure about using it for metal to plastic bonding (I've used JB Weld very successfully for metal to metal bonding) hence why I initially opted for the Loctite brand epoxy. JB Weld has many adhesives to chose from including a "plastic weld" product which "reads" as the most appropriate adhesive for bonding metal bolts to a plastic name plate (??) --> https://www.jbweld.com/collections/epoxy-adhesives The double-sided automotive tape is a good idea if only their was a large name plate to generator access door contact area. The name plate has an ~3/8" tall x 1/8" wide "edge" around the entire plate meaning a very slim 1/8" wide surface that could be used for the tape. This "edge" prevents contact between the back of the name plate and the door hence why Damon used elevator bolts to attach the name plate to the door. From the forum I need your thoughts on which JB Weld adhesive to use -- the original JB Weld or the JB Plastic weld. Also, I need thoughts on how best to remove the Loctite epoxy from the back of the name plate to create a good surface for the JB Weld. I'm thinking a small wire wheel brush (https://www.amazon.com/Forney-72733-Crimped-2-Inch-012-Inch/dp/B000TGC3WI/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1546537001&sr=8-5&keywords=wire+wheel+for+drill) or grinding bit (https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Coated-Cylinder-Mounted-Grinding/dp/B015PK36D2/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1546537077&sr=8-8&keywords=grinding+bits+for+drill) in the end of my cordless drill (unfortunately I don't own a Drimel). As always, I greatly appreciate your help!

This rather unusual request doesn't fit the "Class A" forum so I'll ask my question here. On the front of my Damon motorhome, specifically on the generator access door, is the "Astoria" model name plate which s ~30" long by 3" wide. It is a chrome plated plastic name plate that was secured by to the door by three "elevator" bolts that were (key word "were") secured to the name plate by what looks like "hot glue" (yellowish looking adhesive). Over time, the elevator bolts "broke free" from the original adhesive. This past weekend I re-attached the elevator bolts using Loctite brand epoxy. I let the epoxy fully cure before attempting to secure the name plate to the generator access door. As soon as I started 'snugging down" on the bolts, they "popped loose" from the name plate meaning I either over-tightened the nut OR epoxy was not a good choice as an adhesive. What suggestions does the forum have for "gluing" the elevator bolts to the back side of my Damon name plate? Thanks for the help!! For reference, here is an image of an "elevator" bolt --> https://www.amazon.com/Hard-Find-Fastener-014973239626-Elevator/dp/B00L1L67YA/ref=asc_df_B00L1L67YA/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid={creative}&hvpos={adposition}&hvnetw=o&hvrand={random}&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl={devicemodel}&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584207577138851&psc=1 Also for reference, the first page of the attached sales brochure for my Damon Astoria shows the Astoria name plate on the generator access door. 2007_Damon_Astoria_Motorhome.pdf

Bill -- So we can all understand, your toilet foot valve "leaked through" which caused your black water tank to fill in 48 hours -- correct? The engineer in me wondered the water flow rate needed to make this happen so I did this simple math. Presume 50 gallon capacity black water tank. 48 hours fill time = 2880 minutes. Water leak rate = 50 gallons / 2880 minutes = 0.02 gpm -- a very low rate but if constant fills a 50 gallon tank when no one is looking! I will echo the 'cramped quarters' to change a toilet foot valve. This past January during the few days of 20 F weather at my Richmond, TX storage facility, the one "low spot" I forgot to drain was the foot valve. When the wife and I took the motorhome to the Hill Country in March, we had water on the floor around the toilet thanks to a leak from the bottom of the foot valve (later found a very small crack in the valve body threads at the bottom of the valve where the bottom cap attaches). Replacing the valve was as you described -- tight quarters, laying on the floor, etc. except I threw-in a couple of choice adjectives when one of the water hoses would not come loose. As winter approaches, I will not forget to remove the bottom cap and drain the foot valve....

I know this is an old topic but wanted to add thoughts for those that shop at Kroger grocery stores and have a Kroger discount card. Many Shell service stations across the country honor Kroger Fuel Points. Near my home in Katy, TX there is a one year old Shell station at I-10 and the Grand Parkway that I can easily maneuver my 39 foot motorhome into / out off. The Shell diesel when I topped off my tank two weeks ago was priced at $2.99/gallon when the Love's and Pilot truck stops a few miles west of my home on I-10 had their diesel prices at $3.19/gallon. I used my Kroger Fuel Points which lowered the Shell diesel price by 10 cents / gallon to $2.89/gallon which was a rather large 30 cents / gallon discount to Love's / Pilot's pricing. My refining / marketing company typically markets B5 (i.e. 5% or less biodiesel in the blend) as at that low amount of biodiesel, the "blend" meets all specifications of "conventional" diesel, and using a small amount of biodiesel allows my company to meet EPA renewable fuels standards. Also, for B5 blends, no pump labeling is required and no changes are required (e.g. different types of gaskets, seals and metallurgy) for diesel storage systems, pumps, etc. For biodiesel blends with 6 - 20% biodiesel content, the FTC requires that pumps be labeled with a "Biodiesel Blend" sticker --> https://regi.com/docs/default-source/marketing-collateral/reg-pump-labeling-requirements-fact-sheet.pdf?sfvrsn=6&sfvrsn=6 My company made the decision to not sell B6+ biodiesel blends given the large capital investment required to upgrade gaskets, seals, metallurgy, etc. I've travelled enough in south Texas, the Texas Hill Country and south Louisiana to learn that most truck stops (Love's, Pilot, Buc-ee's , etc. only sell biodiesel blends with less than 5% biodiesel content as they also wisely chose not to invest in the many upgrades to handle higher biodiesel content blends. I have a small "mom and pop" Texaco truck stop near my home that does sell 5-20% biodiesel blends. I never re-fuel at that location. I hope the forum finds this info useful and I apologize for opening an old thread....

In the Dallas, San Antonio and Houston areas a company by the name of RV Mobile Lube performs "on-site" oil and filter changes for engines, generators and transmissions wherever the motorhome is parked -- home, storage facility, RV park. Their cost to change oil, oil filter, air filter and fuel filter on a diesel generator is $200 --> http://www.rvmobilelube.com/services_prices.php If in ever in Texas, RV Mobile Lube provides excellent service. I would think other areas across the U.S. would have companies that provide similar "mobile" oil / filter change services.

Bill -- Having been a gasoline engine guy most of my life I generally followed the "rule of thumb" changing engine oil every 5,000 miles (as my father a WWII trained mechanics and Sinclair Service Station owner taught me). As such, testing gasoline engine oils "just wasn't done". Now being a diesel engine and diesel generator owner and an avid FMCA forum reader, your thought of "testing" the used oil from a generator is intriguing. For the last year I've been using Redline synthetic 15W-40 oil in my generator to assure proper protection for hot LSU football weekends and changing that oil every 150 hours as the Onan owner's manual says change oil every 150 miles whether using conventional or synthetic oil. I have ~100 hours of use on the current synthetic oil in my generator meaning I'll change the oil sometime late this spring / early summer (not much generator use with tailgating season done for the year). I'll have the used oil tested if one of the forum members in the Houston area can let me know who performs the testing.

Jerry -- Welcome to the forum! The members are very helpful especially if you put information about your motorhome in your signature block. With regards to changing oil / filter is relatively simple but the work is done "lying flat on the ground". I use my Onan 7500 watt generator 24/7 on hot, sometimes dusty LSU football weekends so I am religious about changing the oil and filter every 150 hours as the Onan maintenance schedule prescribes (i.e. change the oil after every three football weekends). I agree with you that changing the generator oil & filter while "on the road" is not desirable unless you want to pack a drain pain, cardboard boxes to catch drips, etc. It takes me about an hour to change the oil and filter in my generator. The oil (15W-40) is readily available however I usually order the Onan oil filter from Amazon as finding that filter in a store is unlikely (I don't have a good cross-reference from my Onan oil filter 122-0833 to a Fram or WIXX equivalent). Depending on where you are in the U.S., consider contacting commercial truck oil change/service businesses to learn if they will change oil/filters in your engine and also generator. For example, in Texas and Oklahoma a company by the name of BLine Lube will service both the motorhome engine and chassis ($225 for oil, filters, lube the chassis, check fluid levels, check front wheel hubs, etc.) and service the generator ($99 to change oil and filter) --> http://www.blinelube.com/index.html I've used their location once in Brookshire, TX near my home and was pleased with their service. Hope this info helps. Best wishes for safe travels wherever you are !!

Also, not to district from the original topic too much, I wonder if it would be too much to ask my wife for this RV washing "tool" for Christmas --> https://wash-bots.com/

I've yet to use a "truck wash" because I have the perception/fear of high pressure water finding its way behind slide-out seals, into the refrigerator and hot water heater vents, etc. Also high pressure soap/water (i.e. brush-less) car washes do not do a good job removing road film from my Jeep or the wife's Infiniti. Thus I've hand washed my motorhome when needed using a big bucket, Mequiar's Ultimate Wash & Wax, and long handle brush followed by hand-drying from a ladder with the "Absorber" synthetic chamois. It's a very robust 2-3 hour 'shoulders, back and arms" work-out each time I wash my motorhome. The end result is always a nice, clean, shiny motorhome! What is Blue Beacon's washing process? If only high pressure soap and water, does their process do a good job of removing road film? Also, from my motorhome storage location near Richmond, TX, it would be a 45 - 60 minute drive to the nearest Blue Beacon truck wash on the far northeast / east sides of Houston meaning a 2-3 hour adventure same as I have now. Is the $65'ish cost worth this lengthy round-trip drive? As always, I greatly appreciate any and all thoughts from the forum. p.s. I usually ruin the benefits of my 2--3 hour motorhome washing workout with a couple of high calorie craft beers after the workout is completed.....

Roland -- There are several responses suggesting west Texas would be a good area to consider. I have to give a realistic, contrarian view. San Angelo and communities to the west (e.g. Odessa, Midland, Garden City, Big Spring, etc.) are in the booming Permian Basin shale oil exploration and production area. Those communities are overwhelmed with an ever growing number of exploration and production companies, oil field services companies, etc. and the thousands of employees the shale oil "boom" has brought to west Texas. Cost of living in those communities is very high and supporting infrastructure (highways, health care, schools, housing, lodging, restaurants, grocery stores, etc.) is highly stressed to meet demand. The Permian Basin (and the Eagle Ford Basin south of San Antonio) will continue to experience rapid growth as long as crude oil prices remain above $40 per barrel. Those of us in the energy business "love" the rapid shale (crude) oil growth in west Texas which has pushed the U.S. to leading the world in crude oil production. The downside is the growth has far out-paced the services and infrastructure that San Angelo, Odessa, Midland and other communities can provide. The Texas Hill Country remains my highest recommendation for you to explore e.g. San Antonio / Austin / Waco / Kerrville / Llano "boundary".

Roland -- Ten years ago I moved my then 85 year old parents from Rawlins, Wyoming to a very nice retirement center in Sugar Land, Texas (southwest of Houston). The move was required as they had lost the ability to drive the 150 miles from Rawlins to Cheyenne, Wyoming for medical care (especially my father who used the VA Clinic for most of his care) during the frigid, snowy months of November through March. While Sugar Land weather is much warmer than Wyoming, they simply "flipped" their "stay indoors" timing i.e. in Sugar Land enjoy the outdoors October - May then stay inside with air conditioning June - September. Sugar Land is a community of ~125,000 residents meaning it is big enough to have fantastic medical care, great dining, great shopping, etc. but still small enough that folks get to know their neighbors. My parents had all they needed within a three mile radius of their retirement center -- great physicians, banks, grocery stores, pharmacies, fantastic Methodist hospital, VA Clinic, dining, etc. If ever needed, the huge, world renowned Texas Medical Center is a relatively short 20 miles away from Sugar Land for specialty medical care. And if the desire comes to enjoy "big city" offerings, Houston has a fantastic symphony, Broadway musicals, ballet, dramatic theater, professional sports, great dining, etc. Sugar Land, TX is a very nice community to consider -- not too big, not too small, with everything anyone would ever need. My parents both passed within the last two years at age 93 but until then they were extremely happy during their eight year Sugar Land experience.

Not to rub salt into the wounds of our "northern" bretheren, but tailgating in Baton Rouge this past weekend was fantastic! Highs in the upper 60's with lows in the upper 40's. Briefly ran the furnace Saturday morning to assure the wife was warm enough. Lot's of very tasty mimosas, bloody Mary's, bourbon, beer, breakfast burritos, boudin, jambalaya, fried catfish and other "health food" was shared among the 135 RV owners (~2/3 motorhomes, ~1/3 fifth wheels and a few travel trailers) in my on-campus RV lot. Also had wonderful crackling fire pits at night (one guy I thought was quite creative using a large, light weight galvanized tub with holes drilled in the sides for his fire pit instead of the heavy cast iron portable pits). "Winter" in the South is fantastic! The LSU / Alabama game wasn't so great for us Tiger fans....

Thanks for the prompt responses! To confirm this Motorhome 101 lesson from the fine group of professors, the DIY task is remove the handle, find the burned-out bulb in the bottom, take bad bulb to Auto Zone or O'Reilly's to find a replacement, install the new bulb, then re-attach the handle. Sounds like a hour of work, excluding parts store travel time, for this task. Please tell me an auto parts store will have a replacement bulb and I don't have to mess with Camping World or other RV dealer. And yes, I'm resolved to the fact that motorhomes will always have items in need of repair given the fact that they are big, highly complex machines. If only they were as simple as my Jeep Wrangler to maintain.....

Just when I think "everything" on my motorhome is in good working condition, another gremlin appears. This time thankfully the problem is 'cosmetic' and not functional. This past weekend while in Baton Rouge to watch the Tigers lose horribly to Alabama, my granddaughter said "papa, the door handle isn't working". My first reaction was "oh sh**" and the entry door wouldn't open! Much to my relief the problem is my illuminated entry door "grab handle" was no longer illuminated. I hadn't really noticed no light but my six year old granddaughter sure did! I did a search of the forum about lighted and illuminated grab handles but got no results so I'm asking the forum for advice on how to repair my illuminated grab handle or do I need to purchase a new handle. My existing grab handle looks like this one from Camping World --> https://www.campingworld.com/illumagrip-lighted-assist-handle-18-inch?CAWELAID=120030630000014144&msclkid=bff831ec94bb164d01a46a0c1beb1a8b&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=B_PLA_NB_CW_AllProducts&utm_term=4580909043270037&utm_content=Ad group %231 I'd like to repair my existing handle if possible because it has "Damon" engraved on the handle. Your guidance please! p.s. Is there ever a time in the life of a motorhome that there is a year when no repairs are needed?

Rich -- The chart you provided is very timely! While my motorhome is at RV Masters in Houston for starter replacement (bad solenoid which is integral to the starter) I'm also having them service the coolant system (drain, flush, refill) as I have no record of the coolant ever being changed since it was "new" in 2007 (I thought I had the coolant changed when I purchased the motorhome three years ago but nothing on the list of work done by PPL Motorhomes at that time). The owner's manual for my 300 HP Cummins ISB engine says change the coolant every three years regardless of mileage! I'm hoping that the long delayed coolant change has not caused any problems with my coolant system (the engine has 16,800 miles of use) !! RV Masters uses the Peak brand Final Charge Global Extended Life coolant --> https://www.peakhd.com/product/final-charge/oat-extended-life-coolant-antifreeze/ I've had good luck with Peak brand coolants for my automobiles so I presume Final Charge coolant will perform well for my motorhome's engine (??). I just now reached the "coolant" section of Motorhome 101 class so I'd appreciate any comments the forum has on: 1) Any bad things from not changing the coolant for perhaps as long as ten years? 2) Is the Peak brand Final Charge coolant a good choice?

Thanks for the many responses! I told my wife that "all" motorhome owners have similar repair items that we have experienced regardless of the age of the motorhome. It's having several repairs close together that caused her concern that we may have a "lemon". I told her our total investment is now about $77,000 (purchase price plus repairs) which is much cheaper than the $200,000+ price for a two year old Thor Aria (similar floor plan/amenities which replaced the Damon Astoria when Thor retired the Damon name). Since the Astoria still looks mostly new, except for cracked burgundy vinyl graphics, she's a keeper especially after reading about the DEF system problems on the forum. It's nice to have a 2007 model year motorhome which to my understanding was the last pre-DEF, pre-exhaust filter year. Responding to Carl's question about the chassis, "yes" my motorhome is built on a Freightliner XC Raised Rail chassis. Big basement compartments to carry bulky, but low weight LSU tailgating "stuff" such as my portable Winguard Carry-out satellite "bubble", a couple of plastic For reference, a few months ago I found the sales brochure for 2007 Damon Astorias which I think are pretty well equipped for an "entry" level diesel pusher motorhome. Does the forum agree? 2007_Damon_Astoria_Motorhome.pdf

My wife and I purchased our current motorhome three years ago for $67,000 as our first upgrade from the travel trailer we owned. At that time our 2007 Damon Astoria was eight years old and had a small 4,700 miles of use. It now eleven years old. During our three years of ownership we have had several somewhat low cost repairs to do most of which were covered by my XtraRide extended service contract. I "blame" these repairs on lack of use for the first eight years of life: Replace sway bar Replace track bar bushings Replace original equipment dashboard A/C compressor and low pressure return hose Replace engine serpentine belt (which shredded when original A/C compressor locked-up) Replace the Lippert controller for each the big driver and passenger side slide-outs Replace "four-pack" air pressure /engine temp / fuel level dashboard gauge (had internal, loud air leak) Replace "burned out" Iota Engineering automatic transfer switch Replace five year old coach batteries (two of them) Now need to replace starter relay and/or solenoid to resolve sporadic "engine won't start" problem With this starter relay/solenoid problem, my wife actually said "maybe we should consider a newer motorhome" which stunned me! Overall our Astoria is in great shape and looks almost new inside and out (a few of the burgundy vinyl decals have started to crack which is not unexpected). Yes we could trade for a newer, 3-5 year old motorhome, but I wonder about the "economics" of doing so. The repairs we've had to do I blame on "minimal" use during the first eight years of the motorhome's life. These repairs I'd guess are also common to most motorhomes that are over 3-5 year old (??). For forum members that have owned more than one motorhome, are the repairs I've experienced "typical" for an older motorhome? What prompted you to make your second, third, or more motorhome purchases? Thanks in advance for your thoughts!

For another point of reference, my Progressive premium increased from $1400 in October 2017 to $1700 this year with no claims or changes to the policy. When I called Progressive, they stated the increase was necessary due to claims they had to pay associated with Hurricane Harvey and other storms along the Gulf Coast during the last year. I haven't had time to price compare Progressive with other insurers. Likewise, my house insurance premium increased this year due to Harvey even though I fortunately had no damage or claims from that storm.

This is an old thread but rather that starting a new thread I though I'd add to this one. My three year XtraRide service contract expires on 10/15/18. The quote I received from PPL Motorhomes for a new two year service contract from XtraRide, which is now only available from dealers, is astonishingly expensive -- $5,900 for one year or $6,300 for two years with a $200 deductible. PPL must enjoy quite a margin on XtraRide contracts!! The quote I received from Wholesale Warranties / Viking Protection is $5,800 for three years with a $200 deductible for my 2007 model year motorhome which works out to ~$1,900 per year. My roof air conditioners are original which I think means they likely need to be replaced sometime in the next three years at a cost of $1500+ each (new A/C + labor) which would consume about half of the $5,800 premium for the Viking Protection service contract. Fortunately I've had zero problems with the engine and transmission but being now eleven years old who knows what could happen. Engine and/or transmission problems could become very expensive very quickly. When combined with likelihood of replacing the roof A/Cs, I think a new service contract from Viking Protection is worth the $5,800 cost and peace of mind. What does the forum think?

Thanks for the advice Brett. I'll check the voltages this weekend.

Earlier this week there was a question on the Damon owners forum on IRV2.com about whether or not the converter provides a trickle charge to the engine (chassis) batteries. No one on that forum, including me, could provide an answer. The attached electrical diagram from my owner's manual shows the converter, coach batteries, "automotive" (i.e. chassis) battery, gen-set, etc. I'll confess that my chemical engineering education did not include making me knowledgeable about wiring diagrams! So, I turn to the experts for an answer to the question "does the converter provide a trickle charge to the chassis batteries?" both for my own education and to provide an answer to the Damon owners on IRV2.com. Thanks for the help!

Carl, Richard -- In addition to the surge protection provided in my new Progressive Dynamics ATS, I continue to use my "entry level" portable SurgeGuard 44270 at the pedestal. Recall that when I posted my ATS problems I asked the question about using my portable SurgeGuard in series with the surge protection in the my new ATS and you strongly suggested "yes" so I do. For reference this is the SurgeGuard 44270 I use at the pedestal --> (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Surge-Guard-44270-Entry-Level-Portable-Surge-Protector-50-Amp/144971712?wmlspartner=wmtlabs&adid=22222222222048446868&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=e&wl1=o&wl2=c&wl3=10359948685&wl4=pla-4578641309896479&wl5=&wl6=&wl7=& wl10=Walmart&wl12=144971712_10000010370&wl14=surgeguard model 44270&veh=sem&msclkid=cbc2149331b0121a76a74f309b74c7be

Here's an entrepreneurial question for folks in the greater Houston area and for the forum in general. I and many other late Baby Boomers / early Gen-X folks will retire in the next five to seven years. My observation is this age group (myself included) in very recent years has purchased motorhomes/RVs or plan to purchase motorhomes/RVs to enjoy when careers won't take priority. New RV storage facilities continue to be constructed especially in the far west / southwest areas of Houston (e.g. the Katy / Richmond / Rosenberg areas) and fill with new customers / new RV owners almost as fast as they can be constructed. The storage facility I use went from prairie grass to fully built-out and every spot leased in 18 months! I haven't seen a comparable growth in RV service companies meaning that the few RV service providers in the greater Houston area will be more overwhelmed than they are today and RV owners will have even longer wait times to get repairs completed. And I have learned several RV service companies in the greater Houston area, especially the "mobile" types, do not provide perform chassis work for motorhomes (except for oil & filter changes). What are the forum's thoughts about a motorhome / RV enthusiast like myself finding and partnering with other motorhome / RV enthusiasts and starting a new RV Service / Repair? Would such a new venture be able to find and retain high quality, highly trained, customer focused service technicians? It seems to me a new, stand-alone "brick and mortar" RV repair/service company for the greater Houston area could be very lucrative business given the growth in motorhome / RV ownership. I look forward to your responses.

My original Iota Engineering brand automatic transfer switch "fried" this past May 2018. RV Masters in Houston replaced that piece of plastic junk with a more formidable Progressive Dynamics ATS model PD52DCS that has a built-in surge protector --> https://www.progressivedyn.com/rv/automatic-transfer-switches/pd52dcs-pd52s-240-vac-50-amp-automatic-surge-protected-transfer-switch-the-silent-ats/ After the ATS was replaced, the wife and I took our motorhome on a couple of weekend adventures in July and August to the hot, summertime Texas Hill Country with both roof A/Cs running and the Keurig making coffee and had no problems with the new ATS.

My 2016 Jeep is a Wrangler Unlimited Sahara edition. For all Jeep Wranglers, the "Unlimited" model means four door version. Sahara edition means higher trim level (e.g. body paint hard top) versus the Sport edition (black paint hard top). The Sahara version is plenty capable for navigating the many concreate trails of the Houston urban jungle, getting into tight parking spaces and for some quite good off road fun. I opted not to get the Rubicon version which is heavier than a Sahara and has a lot of serious off-road capabilities (e.g. rock climbing) that I don't need.