Jump to content

desertdeals69

Members
  • Content Count

    2589
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    11

Posts posted by desertdeals69


  1. 11 hours ago, Wayne77590 said:

    I have the mud flap and the Blue Ox KarGard II and even with both of them there is a ding or two on the toad.  I don't think there is anything out there that is 100% protective. I also have a couple dings (Dings being chipped paint) on the sides where an 18 wheeler flying by has kicked up some debris.

    I don't have either.  I use 2 camping sleep mats from Walmart and 4 6 ft bungee cords to cover the front of my Silverado. Not one mark in 150k miles including Alaska.  Total cost $25.

     


  2. On August 4, 2016 at 0:01 PM, hermanmullins said:

    DD 

    Under stand, but I believe his unit is a solid front axle. Most of the time it is toe in then caster and then 

    camber, God forgive if it's the later. Takes really good shop to correct camber on a solid axle.

    Herman 

    It doesn't make any difference what type of axle it is, the caster still has to be correct.  On a stick axle the ride height is critical as it changes the caster if not at the right height. Wedges of different angles are used to get the correct angle.


  3. 28 minutes ago, hermanmullins said:

    Dan,

    Contact Monaco with your coach number. Ask for tech service. You can do it on line. Ask for the alignment specs. Then go to your local truck dealer and ask where they have their truck aligned. 

    If you have constant wandering it sounds like you have a toe in problem. Constant wandering indicates it is toe'd out too much.

    Herman 

    Also it could be not enough caster.  I set more caster in my IFS and now it tracks much better.  My toe was correct.


  4. 2 hours ago, Manholt said:

    Herman.  That's the edge?  Since I do the same, except now I have to use the San-T-Flush at every RV Park or the red light comes on and then you can't flush, I'm on the same edge...:D

    desertdeals.  Then you and DW either hold it and no potty stop between point A & B...or you do and just let it sit in bowl all day...ugh!:wacko::o

    I use the fresh water from the tank to do the normal flushing, I just use the city water for flushing the black tank.


  5. 5 hours ago, TBUTLER said:

    Yeah it's on my bucket list!  Using my system it is likely a little less handy but if you are using 3/4 tank of fresh water (in our coach, 30 gallons) and repeating once or twice, that would be 60 or 90 gallons of fresh water to clean a 40 gallon tank.  We are using between 6 and 8 gallons to get a clean tank.  With the factory sprayer running while rinsing, it is less than 12 to 15 gallons total. 

    I don't use my fresh water, I am connected to the spigot at the dump site.


  6. I have a rinser that I installed that sprays directly at the bottom of the tank right where the toilet dumps.  I found that when you are sitting for a length of time and not moving to slosh the mixture, a mountain builds of solids and is hard to dump unless you drive down the road first.   I installed a timer so that the tank is filled to about 3/4 full with fresh water in 3 minutes.  I dump then repeat the process another once or twice.  It comes out clean.


  7. These have been referred to as freeze plugs for years when actually they are core plugs.  I have seen dozens of frozen blocks and the plugs don't push out, the blocks just crack.  In marine engines those plugs are brass because not all engines have fresh water cooling.  The brass plugs don't corrode with salt water for cooling.  I have always used brass plugs in all my engine rebuilds.

×
×
  • Create New...