tireman9

Whenever using hose extenders as Herman did, it is important to "bolt" down the outer end of the hose and to ensure the hose can't rub against the wheel or simulator sharp edge and that the hose end can't move around.. My set-up is similar to Herman's (pop rivet the small "L" bracket to the hub) When locating the hose mount, be sure to leave clearance for the install & removal of your TPMS sensor. Even "Flow Thru" need to be removed occasionally. Also when attaching TPMS sensors and / or hoses or any valve or extender be sure to confirm no slow air leak with a shot of soapy water and closely monitor the tire pressures for the first couple of days with your TPMS. There should be no pressure loss. Remember that when adding air or using a hand gauge, to support the hose or long valve stems with your other hand as the force of pressing an air chuck against the end of the hose or valve can weaken the hose/valve mount

You didn't provide measured front tire loads. Have you clearly identified the heavy tire minimum inflation needed in each of the 3 sizes you are discussing? Ensuring the wheels meet the specified width requirements for the tire size you are looking at is also a good plan. Some overlook this fitment fact when changing tire size. I suggest the CIP be at least the minimum needed to support the measured load PLUS 10% margin. This means you do not have to go chasing tire inflation if you run into a cold weather snap and find your pressure has dropped below your minimum which can happen if you only inflate to the pressure needed to support the load.

I found a site that offers the flat "mesh" tire covers in other than black RV Quick Shades This is similar to product I checked out in Redmond. They sent me a sample and I would think the White Beige or Grey would work well on flat side RV like most Class-A

OK I don't know why but my signature link said .net but the link went to .com It should be fixed now.

Situation is a bit complex but basically I did not "own" the dot COM domain for RVTireSafety The owner that I write for had some problems with renewing the dot COM I didn't want to loose all my posts so I bought RVTireSafety.NET so now its mine and all my posts are there and available with the dot NET suffix Am working to obtain the dot Com address Will be at Indy for those that want an education () on tires or Genealogy. Six seminars plus a round-table Busy, Busy

I needed to change the URL for my tire blog. The new address is www.RvtireSafety.NET no longer .com

I have a number of posts on my blog that focus on replacing tires in a "Dual" drive position. I suggest you review all 4 posts to learn what you need to know. Can you "Limp" home on a failed dual? How to replace a tire in "Dual" application How to match dual tires when replacing one new tire. < has short video Match Duals... Does anyone really do this? You might want to learn more about tires by reading other posts on the blog or attending my tire seminars at FMCA Convention in Indianapolis

I prefer foaming sprays if you are going to use anything. I would not use any brush or pad on tire I would not use on paint that is on my RV. IMO if the "tire shine" washes off in heavy rain then I believe it is not doing harm to the tire or removing the tire company protestants..

To be clear is the TPMS on the Jeep an external mount sensor? i.e. screws on the valve? If so I think exhaust is likely culprit. I would not be too concerned as long as the pressure readings are in line i.e. all pressures increase about same amount?

The OP really needs to shed the 200#. Upgrading tire capacity is a good idea from tire life standpoint but first get under the Max GAWR and under the Max GVWR. GVWR affects stopping distance which is a definite SAFETY issue.

It is easiest to suggest people replace all tires at the same time as few understand the importance of matching duals. I did replace one tire when I had a tire problem. I saw no reason to scrap a good tire or in my case 5 good tires because of a one tire problem.. The new tire went on the front and I then measured all the others and made sure my duals matched OD.

I can remove the battery from my Tire Traker TPMS sensors and I do not loose calibration. To be sure I keep the same position I used a silver Sharpie to label each sensor (RF, LF, RO RI, LO, LI) so come Spring I simply reinstall batteries, after checking they are still 3.0V or stronger and screw the sensors back on the correct position.

For those looking for tech info on Yokohama or other brands and the Load Inflation tables I have a post with many links.

RE tire sidewalls rubbing together. The industry terminology is Minimum Dual Spacing. You can read more on my blog on the topic If changing brands and definitely if changing size you need to get that dimension for tires you are considering. If your current tires had say MDS of 12.50" you could safely go with tires with a lower MDS but if you are considering tires with a larger number you will need to do some measurements and calculations or you could end up with problems. The dimension is controlled by both tire size and wheel width and wheel offset so it isn't an easy thing to measure BUT a competent truck tire dealership will know about this and how to confirm appropriate clearances.

One important item Brett mentioned is matching the tire OD. Here is a post you need to review along with the referenced posts. June 17 2013 post on how to properly measure the tires. You do have a good plan on placing the new tires on the front. Placing the current fronts on the rears needs to be based on matching tire OC (easier to measure than OD. Tire dimensions are taken when mounted and inflated. Unmounted dimensions are NOT valid for the purpose of dual matching.

The rule of thumb is the max width of a tire changes by 0.4" for each rim width change of 1"

Good stuff. Truck mud flaps also work. Might even find some damaged flaps at large junk yard and bet you could get real low cost.

Interesting. Have you confirmed that you get notified "at once" of a slight increase in temperature of the sensor? Bet if you used hair dryer and just warmed the sensor by 10F it would not show up at once. I can't test every brand so if someone has a TPMS that updates every 10 to 20 seconds and not every 15 to 20 min when parked I would be interested. I have confirmed that old batteries = longer "parked" update time

I shut the Traker off when I park. In AM I turn on the Traker right after turning on the coffee maker. That way by the time I'm dressed,and have finished breakfast I have current tire pressure readings. The "continuous" is correct in that it would notify within a few seconds of air pressure loss. MOST / All? TPMS only update at regular pressure (no loss) about once every 15 min or so otherwise battery life would be low.

Thanks for confirmation. I would be much more concerned with oils from asphalt attacking the tread surface and moisture migrating through the rubber and attacking the steel than alkaline from dry concrete. Rubber is pretty resistant to acids and bases if you keep the moisture away. Not sure that newspaper or cardboard would do much other than absorb moisture. My concerns are #1 heat, #2 oils, #3 moisture #4 Ozone from motor or ozone generator all others would be #5 I myself park on 2x8x12 planks on crushed concrete that drains well with all tires in carport shade except one which is under white vinyl cover. Carport is on North side of shop.

While some think that it is carbon black that blocks UV I have used a UV meter and confirmed even a piece of cardboard blocks direct UV. My concern is the damage done by heat. UV can only affect the surface of a tire while heat can harm the structure. Did you read my blog post on white covers I mentioned in earlier post?

Is the MH stored at a storage facility that does not monitor who gets in? Fill a spray bottle with water and a bit of dish soap. Spray valve, extensions and area where tire joins the wheel. If no leaks discovered then do the tread. There clearly is a reason you are loosing air.

Not sure why so many seem to want to mess with their tire pressure. Now I can be pretty anal about tires but I have my TireTraker TPMS set to warn at the minimum inflation I need for my measured load based on the published industry tables. My CIP is 10% above the minimum needed so I have a nice margin. I can monitor the pressure using the "Morning Reset" feature so I know my morning CIP without getting out of the coach in the AM. Pressure goes up and it goes down but with pressure only changing about 2% for each 10F I would have to see a 50F drop before I would have to add air to stay in my 10% margin range. One thing people seem to forget is that you let a bit of air out every time you check the air and this can add up. The other negative with repeated air checks is the potential for having a valve core stick open as seen in this post. I have writen that monitoring your tires is Not Rocket Science. Once you know your weights and your CIP and set your TPMS you should be good to go for weeks of travel and never having to touch your tires other than to put the covers on and off. Now get out there and see the country. Unless it's snowing like here in NE Ohio

I'm also on Medicare using a Medicare Advantage program. I have $25,000 coverage outside the US for emergency/urgent care. In the US I have full Medicare coverage for emergency care even out of network area.