tireman9

I have always suggested that one thing you are "buying" when you select a tire is the dealer and dealer network. You might get a better price from "Bill-Jo-Bob's Cheap tire and Bait Emporium" but I doubt if you will get reliable, long term good support.

According to published standards Michelin 255/80R 22.5 OD 38.2 Width 9.9 Rim width 7.5 to 8.0 Min Dual spacing 11.2 Single load 5205/110 lbs/psi 75 mph max The closest match would be a 265/75R22.5. Here are the specs on the Bridgestone R250F 265/75R22.5: OD 38.4 Width 10.2 5205# @ 110psi Couple of other options, that are not as close: Firestone FS560 275/70R22.5 OD 36.7 Width 10.3 Rim width 8.25 Min Dual spacing xx.x Single load 5510/120 lbs/psi 75 mph max Firestone FT491 275/70R22.5 OD 36.3 Width 10.4 Rim width 8.25 Min Dual spacing xx.x Single load 5510/120 lbs/psi 75 mph max Firestone FS561 10R22.5 OD 40.2 Width 9.09 Rim width 7.5 Min Dual spacing xx.x Single load 5675/115 lbs/psi 75 mph max Continental CCHA3 275/70R22.5 OD 37.6 Width 10.8 Rim width 7.5 to 8.25 Min Dual spacing 12.4 Single load 6940/130 lbs/psi 75 mph max Be sure to confirm the Minimum dual spacing with the tire dealer as you want to be sure the rear duals do not "kiss" +++++++++++++++++ 11R22.5 are about 41.5 OD 11" wide so likely too big.

Sometimes it takes a tire dealer to actually be able to look at the tires to come up with problem/solution. The best the rest of us can do is offer opinions that are based on trying to visualize the tire situation. Glad it was resolved.

At the FMCA Convention in West Springfield this week and at the "Ask the Experts" seminar there was a mention of the use of antifreeze on tires to make them look better. As a tire design, Mechanical Engineer, I said I wasn't sure this was OK to use on tires but since this was a new idea to me. I said I would check with a rubber chemist. Got the answer today. " I definitely would not recommend it – " was the answer. Pretty clear to me.

RE RV specific sidewall rubber compounding. I have never seen direct side by side test data that shows the "RV" tires are in fact measurably better after say 6 years use. Not saying they are not better but I prefer hard data to sales and marketing information. Anyone know if RV specific tires carry longer warranty against sidewall cracking that non-rv specific tires?

jleamont Be sure to confirm you can use two aluminum wheels in dual. The mounting disk on aluminum wheels is much thicker than the steel wheel disk so you might find your studs are not long enough. Not saying they will not fit just be sure before you go to expense.

It would help if we knew your measured "4 corner" tire loads or at least the individual axle loads. To work with just the rating the best you can get are a bunch of guesses. Some other numbers you need to consider when consulting specifications on possible tires: Max load capability at max inflation for each Load Range you are considering. Minimum rim width and the width of the wheels you have. (spec not what you measure with a tape) "Minimum dual spacing" You mentioned carrying a spare. You might watch this short video. Have you confirmed that you have space for a spare tire only?

A suggestion for everyone. Next time you buy a tire be sure to record the full DOT serial, tire size and Load Range. Much easier to do before a tire is placed on the coach. Keep the tire info in your "important stuff" file. With this information, it will be easier in the future to know what you have when it comes time to replace or when bad stuff happens and you need to tell road service what you need. The up side of having this info written down is that if there is ever a tire recall you can quickly check your notes to see if you "won" new tires. An alternate suggestion I give during my FMCA tire seminar is to "hire" a teenager and give them a flashlight and blanket or throw rug and $5 and have them crawl under the coach, if needed, to record the DOT of the current tires. This will be much easier done on a nice day and may require the coach to be moved a few feet to get the serial in a position they can view. The good news is that this only needs to be done once.

Manholt's question is a good one. I often wonder why people want to change tire brands. If you have been happy with the overall performance of what works on your coach, why change? While there may be sound reasons to consider change such as Brand or size availability and cost or the previous owner put a smaller or lighter load capacity tire on the save some $ (definitely a no no in my book). Simply changing the brand for no specific reason may introduce ride issues as every brand/size is slightly different in its response to road disturbance. Even lower cost may not be worth it as there is always the potential of going from a satisfactory combination of tire size, brand, inflation level to same load capacity and inflation but different brand and ending up with a minor or maybe significant loss in ride comfort. It may be difficult to understand but ride comfort is a combination of many different components in a vehicle such as shocks, springs, wheels(steel or aluminum or even different design aluminum), tire size, inflation, brand, tread design and some other parts such as suspension bushings and even seat mounting. So just because a specific brand works well one one brand, year, model coach does not mean it will always work well on a different coach.

According to Forbes article of 200 large US cities Boston is rank #1 worst with Worcester #3 and Springfield #5. So we need to be careful out there.

To be clear you need hard copy, not just the ability to save documents. You did not mention how many copies you need of each document. Also the average number of pages a day or hour. These numbers can have a significant impact on the printer you choose/need.

Why are so many sub systems in RV's made so the part can be assembled but no reasonable service is possible. Reminds me of a car in the 70's where you had to disconnect the engine mounts and lift the engine out part way to change a spark plug. My water pump was installed before bathroom floor was installed so I have 2-1/2" clearance for my hand and a stubby screw driver but after unscrewing 1/2 of the screw length there is no room for my hand. Oh ya the mounting screws can not be seen as they are hidden behind heating ductwork. This is one of the downsides of short warranty. If the company never has to pay for service of a part they don't care it the part is serviceable or not cuz the cost is on the owner not the company.

I am hoping to arrive afternoon of 1st so have all day 2nd open too. I have a special seminar on Genealogy late Friday afternoon so will need to set times. E-mail me with your cell number and I can try and contact you via email and possible phone as soon as I know I am ready. tireman9 at gmail dot com

Free service offer. Check out details on TIRE forum.

I have read a number of forum posts here and on other RV forums on people's concern about the different readings from their TPMS. I have finished testing my test fixture and will be offering a FREE service (although a donation of a can of Coke would be accepted ) of testing your TPMS to see what the variation is between your sensors and my calibrated pressure gauge. We will also be able to test each sensor for response time when it senses an air loss. Time & location will be announced at both of my tire Seminars, currently scheduled Wed 3:15 PM and Fri 11 Am

For those traveling through Ohio on the Turnpike: The tpk has RV parking facilities at 4 service facilities both East and Westbound. $20 w/ 20, 30 & 50 A hookup,wastewater dump station and potable water filling station too. Here is a review from users. Here for link to general Tpk info or Here to download brochure. Locations at Milepost 20.8, 76.9, 139.5, and 197.0

Thanks for input. I want to KISS Sooo Steps for setting CIP and TPMS pressure warning levels for Motorhomes: 1. Weigh the coach and learn 4 corner weights or at least get axle weights and assume a 47/53 side to side load split on each axle to accommodate some of the identified unbalance in RVs. 2. Using the heavier end load for each axle or the 53% figure, use Load Inflation table to learn the minimum inflation needed to support that load. 3. Establish the CIP to be the minimum inflation in step 2 PLUS 10 Psi 4. Set the low pressure warning level of a TPMS to the inflation level in step 2 PLUS 2 Psi to ensure the tires are never operated in an overloaded condition. 5. Set the high pressure warning level to 120% of CIP. If your pressure increases by 20% there is something is wrong like too much Load or too much speed or too large an increase in Ambient over the morning temperature. Take a break, let the tires cool down and figure out what changed and make a correction.

OK this is a long post and may put some folks to sleep, but if you can wade through it I would appreciate feedback. Comments appreciated or direct email might be best for some folks. Tireman9 at gmail.com I am trying to develop a comprehensive statement oh how to set both Cold Inflation Pressure and TPMS warning levels. I also need to keep this simple enough so anyone can follow the instructions. So what do you think? I feel the CIP should it be the minimum inflation based on actual measured load of that individual RV plus a margin, even if the RV industry doesn't want this because they would have to provide larger or higher rated tires to future models. Owners can read their inflation and calculate the CIP. Suggesting a margin on load involves the tables and additional interpretation. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Steps for setting CIP and TPMS pressure warning levels: 1. Weigh the coach and learn 4 corner weights or at least get axle weights and assume a 47/53 side to side load split on each axle to accommodate some of the identified unbalance in RVs. 2. Using the heavier end load for each axle or the 53% figure, use Load Inflation table to learn the minimum inflation needed to support that load. 3. Establish the CIP to be the minimum inflation in step 2 + 10% + round up to next higher 5 or 10 inflation level to get an easy to remember inflation for the CIP. Example Load table gives 80 psi + 10% = 88psi and round up gives 90 psi. Example Load table gives 110 psi +10% = 121 and round up to 125 4. Set the low pressure warning level of a TPMS to the inflation level in step 2 above to ensure the tires are never operated in an overloaded condition. 5. Set the high pressure warning level to 120% of CIP ++++++++++++++++ Reasoning for #1. IMO a 45/55 would cover more RVs but might be too much unbalance and not reflect the majority (lets say 90%) of motorhomes so I am suggesting the 53% as a compromise. I can only guess at the statistics needed to cover 80 or 90% of the market. Reasoning for #4 Some TPMS sellers say to set the low warning level to -10% and other say -15% or possibly lower, of the "baseline inflation" but they do not seem to be clear or consistent seller to seller on what they mean by "baseline". Some will say placard inflation others say the inflation in the tables. I believe the -15% inflation level for warning level for TPM was taken from the passenger car warning level but that ignores the fact that passenger car inflation levels are not set to the pressure needed to support the load but at a higher level some significantly higher as handling or fuel economy are a driving force for light ( under 10,000#) vehicles. Reasoning for #5 With pressure increasing by about 2% per 10°F a 20% rise in pressure would translate to a temperature rise of 100°F which would be significant and may indicate some problem or excess speed for the conditions.. Note the default TPMS High temperature warning of 158°F is not reflecting the actual tire temperature as there is cooler of the sensor and the hottest part of the tire is hotter than the contained air average temperature. ==================== Are the suggested guidelines clear enough? Do you think my reasoning is logical?

RE your specific question of shoulder wear.vSince we are talking rear duals it is not an alignment issue so all that is left is load & inflation. Others have suggested you confirm the correct inflation for your actual load. The 80 psi is the suggestion from the coach Mfg but that is based partially on an estimate on how much "stuff" you are carrying. I have never met a person with "calibrated" eye sight that can tell you the actual load on an RV axle or tires so getting on a scale is needed. Having at least the air pressure needed to support the actual load on your tires is a foundation to having the best over all performance from your tires. HERE is a worksheet posted by a friend of mine. He focuses on 5th wheel trailers but the form covers all types of RVs. He even posts a video of what is involved and a list of weigh providers. Now the posts above point out the problem of locating scales where you can get the one side only weights as seen in the form. But the good news is that you have some options. Some states like WA & OR leave their scales on 24/7 so you can take your time collecting the readings you need to do your own calculations. Some have reported sucess in contacting local State Police for location where they are checking truck weights so give that option some consideration At FMCA Int'l family Reunions RVSEF offers a great service and they will not only give you the weights but will do the calculation for you. Check out their web site for their schedule. You might also review some of the posts on my blog on weight and inflation to learn what I believe is good practice.

Any chance you can post or email a picture to me? Tireman9@gmail.com? In full sun is helpful and looking across tire surface as well as sideways will help.

Don't worry about tires "breathing" enough. ObedB is correct about "the brown stuff". The only stuff I put on my tires is completely water soluble and simply lays on the surface till it rains hard. RE pressure washing. Be careful to keep wands a couple feet away. The high pressure can damage the sidewall. There is a picture showing that damage on my blog post. See you all in W. Springfield. PS in addition to checking your hand gauges, I am working on test fixture for checking your TPMS if you have a portable monitor. If you are thinking of this, I advise to mark the cap on each sensor with tire position so you do not need to re-set the tire position. Sorry but will be doing a pressure check on TPMS at about 80 psi so you will need to change your low pressure warning level. More info at my tire seminars.

According to CT DOT " CT Routes 2 and 9 have clearances above 13’-6” " so most folks should be good to go if they are on those routes.

IMO many tire "cleaners" are tough on the surface rubber. If you are only keeping your tires for 3 or 4 years it may not be an issue with the cleaner "dissolving" surface rubber and protectants the tire co put in your tires and you paid for. Not aware of any negatives for 303. I really would like to see the data from a controlled lab comparison but I doubt if any of the companies making the protectants want to foot the bill if they can't be sure of winning.

I drove my 22' Class-C from OH to Redmond, OR for the 2014 FMCA Reunion. Set the cruse on 62, watched the scenery go by and enjoyed the ride. Got 10.1 mpg too. I will be at W. Springfield giving 3 seminars on Genealogy so stop in if interested. Also 2 on tires. IMO everyone should attend at least the "Tire Knowledge for RV owners" as tires on an RV are not the same as tires on your car.

Was at FMCA GLAMARAMA last week. Home and catching up. "Brown" build up is the anti-ozone wax that is built into all tires so removing it is not desirable. I use the same soap and water I use to wash the side of my coach. I also use a cloth rag to wash the tires and NEVER a stiff bristle brush which can leave microscopic scratches on the tire surface. Finally the only stuff I put on my tires does wash off when I drive in the rain so I know there is no petroleum distillate in it. It foams when sprayed on the tire and needs no rubbing and I do not need to even touch the tires. There are probably a couple brands so I won't name them here.