tbutler

One source of old manuals is RV salvage yards. An excellent souce of RV parts is listed in this thread. The listing of salvage yards gives specialties of many of the yards. The above link takes you to the "home page". Follow this link to go directly to the listing of salvage yards.

mccsix, This is the way the forum works. You see a thread and from its discussion ask another related question. and the thread continues. No one owns a thread! Your question helps everyone elaborate on the factors related to the discussion. This is a good thing! The jumper is required in order to activate all circuits in the motor home. Each of the 50A plugs hot prongs supply electricity to part of the coach. If you only connect one you will only have some of the circuits in the motor home active. The circuits from one prong do not interact with the circuits of the other prong. If this were not true, you would have 240 volts short circuiting in the motor home when hooked up to a normal 50A 240V outlet.

Welcome Michael, I'll have to look for the rally in Urbana. Why don't you post a notice on the Forum giving dates and a few details? There is a section of the Forum for posting information about rallies such as this one. As an aviation buff, I might be able to get there if not for the rally at least to see the museum and the B-17!

I copied this information from another posting... Call REMCO (1-877-645-7169 or www.remcotowing.com) and they'll have that info. This company makes a variety of accessories that will make most any vehicle capable of towing with 4 wheels on the ground. Now, I must say that not everyone has good things to say about their experience with REMCO. If you find the search tab at the top of this page (the second heading line - right end between MEMBERS and HELP), enter REMCO and you'll get a number of topics on towing with references to REMCO. Read through a number of them to assess for yourself the experience many FMCAers have had with REMCO.

You can jumper the hot wire from one hot feed on the 50A receptacle but you won't get more than 30A out of the circuit. As it approaches 30A, the circuit breaker should trip. Since you are using a 30A cable, drawing any more current on that wire would create heat and likely melt and short circuit the wire. A second problem is late model coaches, many of which have electronic current monitoring which will not recognize a 50A circuit unless the two feeds are opposite phase. If you jumper from one hot terminal to the other, they will both be in the same phase and the computer in the coach will only recognize it as a 30A circuit.

Donald, In our coach the battery disconnect switch activates a solenoid which switches the battery circuit on and off. You haven't indicated the make, model and year of your coach so this may or may not apply to your situation. The solenoid is subject to failure and if it does, the switch will do nothing. If we know the information about your coach, someone may be able to direct you where to look for the solenoid. A second possibility is that the house batteries are dead. Yes, you shut off the batteries with the disconnect switch but there are a number of other loads that are not disconnected by the battery shut off switch in most coaches. Some of these parasitic loads include the smoke/carbon monoxide/propane detectors, various electronic indicators and other things the manufacturer may have wired outside the battery cutoff circuit. They are small loads but may in a weeks time completely discharge the battery.

Here is a source, RV Power Outlet, that has a full array of outlet boxes for RV's at very competitive prices. With multiple boxes on a 200 amp feed, you could use the 50 amp breakers at the 200 amp box to individually turn on and off circuits but that would require running a separate set of 50 amp wires to each box. With the most distant box at 150 feet, you would need a heavier wire for the second box. Or you could run one 100 amp breaker and 100 amp wire feed two boxes each with its own 50 amp breaker. The most distant box would only need a 50 amp wire sufficient to carry the 50 amp load for the distance from the 100 amp feed wire to that box. I like to have a breaker at the plug in as it makes it simple and easy to turn on the power after plugging in and turn off the power before unplugging. With the price of wire, the latter solution may be less costly than the first.

John, I don't have any experience with this route. We did take US 93 N out of Wells several years ago and found it to be a very serviceable highway. I looked at the route with my GPS program and it looks to be fairly straight and doesn't cross any high mountains so it should be a suitable route. As to road surface you would need to find someone with local knowledge. If we don't get a reply from someone on this web site you might go to the Nevada Department of Transportation web site. I can't find information about road surface but there is a phone number given that you might try. For the state of Utah, the Utah Department of Transportation, website also lists a road conditions phone number. For my money, given the alternate route into Salt Lake City and then north on I-15 looks far less appealing. I'll always take the smaller, less traveled road when possible. Good luck with your trip.

Since both control units malfunction in the same way, I would look elsewhere for the problem. Perhaps the connection (control unit to A/C) at the air conditioner is loose or is getting wet when the A/C is running. After the A/C shuts off it dries out and then works properly again? Just a guess...

I think the lack of use issue is a serious consideration. Also, keep in mind that most maintenance recommendations have a time as well as mileage criterion. If you've only driven 10,000 miles, it is hard to justify performing the 2 year/60,000 mile maintenance and so you figure you can get by without doing the required maintenance. Given the choice, most people will focus on the mileage amount and ignore the time criterion. Sitting idle is as bad for an engine as it is for a person. Recently there was news that sitting was deadly for humans. Sitting - no matter what you are doing shortens your life. I guess engines are the same... Better get mine rolling, we've been sitting for almost six months now! Keep in mind the trucker that gets 2,000,000 miles from his big rig may do it in 3 or 4 years. Perhaps 3 or 4 years is the true life of the engine, not 2,000,000 miles!

I looked at washers and dryers (separate units) last summer. We'd had a problem with our Splendide. Louise didn't want to give up the extra closet space so we elected to repair the old unit. I talked to a repairman and he recognized the problem immediately. He shipped the replacement board pronto and gave me the information I needed to do the replacement myself... problem solved. Now, I had picked out two units (one washer, one drier) that fit our cabinet space which was my primary consideration. I did not consider LG because I purchased a TV a little over a year ago and found the instructions and operation to be about as obtuse as possible. So far it continues to work and the picture is fine but the menu operations are awkward and lacking features that I would expect in the cheapest TV's these days. I'd try the GE if that is your only other choice. By the way, LG is a renamed corporation, they used to be known as Goldstar, a third rate manufacturer. I think LG is an attempt to flee their previous reputation. I can't remember the models I found but the determination was primarily - would it fit?

Unfortunately, you are dealing with a mega corporation that has no social conscience. My daughter purchased a top of the line Jenn Air refrigerator about 5 years ago. They have been pursing some solution to this day. The refrigerator has never work satisfactorily for any significant length of time. We've see parts replaced repeatedly with problems continuing. There is no option to just replace the appliance, they just continue to "fix" it. Jenn Air is manufactured by Whirlpool. Once upon a time it was a corporation with an excellent reputation but I suspect it is now headed to Toyota Land... - oh no, hope that isn't your rice burner! Unfortunately, the consumer always takes a hit in these situations. Thanks for sharing your experience with us. We can all learn something from your experience.

Our grandsons age 8 and 9 enjoyed the Lincoln Home in Springfield, IL, the Children's Museum in Indianapolis, Schimpff's candy factory in Clarksville, Indiana, The Louisville Slugger Museum in ... well Louisville and the Evansville, IN Zoo. We made this a 10 day tour for the boys. You can read about it at Grandchildren Rule, Grandpa Drools! and Listening to Little Voices Blog here on the FMCA web site. Any of these attractions would be of interest to young children.

We have a similar alarm without any message as to cause. Ours occurs when we start out and after some distance it will stop. I suspect it is a brake warning but haven't been able to duplicate it or get any indicator of any problem on my engine monitor (Silverleaf). Sometimes these systems are so smart they forget to tell us what is wrong. I recently noticed a ticking noise when the engine is running - traced it to an alarm module. Don't know what that means. I plan to replace that module when we get on the road this spring. Maybe then I'll have more music to drive by...