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rayin
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Posts posted by rayin
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HapptyHobos. Good Sam ESC does not have their own inspectors, they have contracted independent RV inspectors in every major city. IMO you did the right thing by contacting "Jamie" and persisting in obtaining satisfaction. It's like the old addage, "The wheel that squeaks the loudest gets the most grease."
We also had a GS ESC policy on our MH. Overall we were quite satisfied with our results, money well-spend in our case.
It is Cummins NOT Cummings. You may have been thinking of Senator Cummings.
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AndyShane, you are indeed very lucky. That could have very easily became a fire instead of just melting/arcing a hole in the copper tubing filled with oil.
Update/correction. I replied to andyshane, but Richard was my intended quote.
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As I said, the only problem I ever had was the copper gaskets in the Duramax engine. I discovered the leak when the crankcase was full of diesel fuel.
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On 8/31/2019 at 5:57 PM, jleamont said:What’s everyone cooking for the holiday?
We are home for the weekend and this was today’s dinner.
I smoked an 11 lb brisket and made homemade Mac and cheese which I finished off in the smoker.
note the juice on the left side of the photo, it was bubbling out
There is something terribly wrong with these pictures; They are there, I'm here.
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2 hours ago, tireman9 said:While I can't address negative reports on some applications for some brands, I do know that I can find negative posts on just about every brand tire I ever heard of.
A couple of points:
No company that makes Passenger, Light Truck and Heavy truck (RV) tires make them with the same materials or on the same building machines. I doubt that you think that winning the Indy 500 means you can expect the same materials or process to be used in your 365/70R22.5 LR-J tire.
I have a couple of posts on my blog with links to videos of tire manufacturing process new and old, showing just how different the manufacturing process can be. The raw materials are different and the internal QA testing is different, so I don't feel it is reasonable to use a broad brush of "negative reviews" from some individuals to consider all the tires a company makes must also be bad especially given the well-documented cases of poor or non-existant tire maintenance for so many vehicle owners.
When people ask me for recommendations for tires I offer a couple of suggestions.
1. You can check with NHTSA and check for current recalls for the brand and type tire you are considering.
2. Visit the company web site and see if you can locate dealers or stores in the states you travel to. If there are hundreds of stores then it would follow that it should be easier to get service and that millions of consumers must be happy with the products that the company makes. When doing this check confirm that you have visited the appropriate company web site. Some companies separate passenger and Heavy Truck dealers and you should not expect to be able to get service for your 22.5" tires at a passenger tire dealer
3. Don't use purchase price as your primary yardstick
Things to think about:
What was the complaint in the negative review? price? Service at a particular store? The tire didn't deliver 70,000 miles wear? The fact that the tire suffered a puncture? Maybe even a complaint about a tire failure but the failure was traced to a valve core leak. I have even heard some complaints about the style of lettering on a tire sidewall.
Bottom line I know of no reason to not include Hankook brand on your shortlist.
As Paul Harvey always said, " and that's the rest of the story".
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On 8/30/2019 at 5:02 PM, DickandLois said:Mark, The Fuel lines and some other items in the supply system where used before the introduction of Bio Diesel.
Bio brakes down the fuel lines, seals and the lift pump. the particles wind up in the fuel tank and filters.
The best fix is to replace all the fuel line with B-20 grade, the fuel return lines,the lift pump if it is older and a Cummins and any seals that have not been replaced in the supply and return system while the conversion was is progress.
Rich.
I have not experienced that with any of my diesel-powered engines, had a 1973 Case diesel tractor, and this MH running on today's diesel fuel ever since ULSD and biodiesel were commercially-available. The only problem I've had was with my '02 Duramax diesel engine, biodiesel reacted with the copper seals in the high-pressure fuel lines underneath the valve covers, GM replaced them under a TSB.
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I would agree, broken or detached gear mechanism. BTW, the piviot points should be lubricated monthly.
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On 8/30/2019 at 11:08 PM, wayne77590 said:I have used them a few times. It really depends on how the repair place writes up the description. I don't know how that exactly works but a service manager re-submitted a request for authorization and the way he worded it, he said, they approved it.
Yep, dot i's cross t's. It is a contract, and worded as such. I bought an extended service contract with our MH from CW, studied it before signing, as I would with any contract.
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Tim, if I remember correctly, there is an air bleed on top of the 'stat housing.
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Carl, Joe, that is the GS introductory price for new members, first year only, price almost doubles 2 year. I let my GS ERS lapse when I bought the FMCA/Saferide policy, GS denied my attempt to enroll at the introductory price last week. I have a, IMO, good deal with FMCA/Saferide, I'll stick with it.
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9 hours ago, 76GMC said:I did not hear of this huge increase in renewal fees until the office was closed on Aug 30. I sent a message requesting an adjustment - we’ll see if that goes anywhere.
If not - I guess the membership will drop by one in November...
I found out when I opened this thread, must have missed the information if it was in the magazine.
Contact Skymed and request a quote for their medical assist program. Here is the Good Sam medical assist fee chart, which is an addition to their membership fee. OTOH, like some do with the ESC plans, you may self-insure.
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4 hours ago, richard5933 said:Sorry, but if that were the case the county wouldn't require re-testing when a well has to be sanitized as a result of a positive test result. They'd just give it a sniff test. Chlorine/water solution will smell like bleach long after it's lost it ability to sanitize anything.
My take on all this is that the majority of times people are sanitizing their RV water systems it is done as a precautionary measure. Most of the time people don't know if they have an actual problem (other than possibly an offending smell or taste). And unfortunately in those situations where there is an actual problem without testing there is no way to know for certain whether or not the problem has been abated.
Two entirely different scenarios Richard, once you submit a water sample for testing to a lab, legalities demand a follow-up and report to the state body governing such. I agree with you that the majority of RV'ers sanitize their fresh water system from an over-abundance of caution, or because others scared them into the act. I cannot recall ever reading about anyone getting sick from consuming water from their RV.
reference: https://waterandhealth.org/safe-drinking-water/drinking-water/drinking-water-chlorine-odor/
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When using chlorine/bleach, a simple sniff-test is all that is necessary, if you smell bleach in water at the faucet after an hour, chlorine residual is present; this residual means the chlorine was not completely consumed killing bacteria/germs, thus germs were eliminated.
This has ran its course, I'll stop here.
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5 hours ago, tpicks55 said:If all else fails try these people.(Not affiliated with them) Good luck
Visone RV Parts - Worlds Largest Selection Of Used RV Parts / Motorhome Parts for sale.
Used RV Parts Phone:
(606) 843-9889 (606) 305-1021
Hours 8:00AM - 6:00PM EST Monday thu FridayThey do have a LOT of used MH parts! All sales are final; they do not accept returns, nor offer refunds, for parts ordered. They do state parts are tested and verified in working order.
I was on their website this morning looking at a used XantreX 2012 inverter/charger, their price $1,4xx.xx. I found a new one on ebay(full warranty) for $1,299 W/ free shipping. Check around before buying.
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10 hours ago, kaypsmith said:Joe, the way DD described is the best way, use the 15 gallons with 1 pint, flush the system, then finish filling with fresh water. I usually try to deplete as much of the 15 as possible before filling the tank.
OK, please explain how 1 pint of 3% H2 O2 diluted into 15G of water(result is a 0.00025% solution) can disinfect anything, since a 3% total solution is the absolute minimum to disinfect tank and drinking water according to the CDC (see link in my previous reply). How does that 15G get in contact with the remaining empty tank to disinfect that? To maintain a 3% solution you must buy 120, 1 pint bottles of H2O2, which = 15G
In order to use 100% H2O2 (impossible to buy) to dilute into 15G of water, it would still take 57.6 oz to create a 3% solution.
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On 8/13/2019 at 10:06 PM, desertdeals69 said:I have just been using hydrogen peroxide works perfect and no after taste. Kills things that bleach doesn't.
We've been through this before, you will have to completely fill your fresh water tank with 3% hydrogen peroxide, and soak for a minimum of 150 minutes,, to kill every bacteria in the fresh water system.https://www.cdc.gov/infectioncontrol/guidelines/disinfection/disinfection-methods/chemical.html
No drinking water treatment courses I am aware of, to prepare for taking a state exam for licensing for a water treatment operator, address using H2 O2.
How do you know your system is sanitized without continual lab testing? Unlike Chlorine residual levels, there is not a simple positive way to test for residual H2O2. Factor in the porous plastic tank and plumbing are harder to insure contact with every surface, and you see the difficulty involved.
That is the only reference I can find that even mentions using H2 O2 for disinfecting drinking water, the following from the CDC,EPA and WHO does not mention H2 O2 for disinfecting drinking water:
https://www.who.int/household_water/research/technologies_intro/en/
https://www.who.int/water_sanitation_health/hygiene/om/linkingchap6.pdf
https://www.epa.ie/pubs/advice/drinkingwater/Disinfection2_web.pdf
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23 hours ago, manholt said:That leads back to Joe's suggestion on 8/25!
This coach needs a total service of both engine & chassis, DOT info of tires, batteries. Have you added fuel since purchase? The coach has been sitting a lot if it only has 46k miles in 24 years!!! Works on gas, NOT a DP!
OK got it! I just went by what I found on the internet: https://www.mhsrv.com/1996-holiday-rambler-navigator-with-slide-used-diesel-pusher-tx-i1201791
UPDATE: I surfed the internet for a while, I cannot find a HR Navigator with a gas engine.
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There are 2 options for your diesel fuel, #1 is have the fuel "polished", any large boat shop should have the proper equipment, it's expensive, which leads to #2 simply have your fuel tank pumped out and cleaned, old fuel disposed of; given today's diesel fuel prices it may be less money than polishing.
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I remember reading of this issue on a different RVing discussion forum several years ago, sadly my memory fails at that point, and I do not remember the outcome.
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Website doesn't work for me, and I refuse to turn off my security programs to see it that helps. Same thing happens with links on another rving website. Oh well, I know all about myself anyway. Some Army vets have a problem decoding my MOSC though, 11B5MX.
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On 8/24/2019 at 8:35 PM, wayne77590 said:My WInnebago is programmed that way. Not with just the engine running but engine running and/or emergency brake off or in gear and the jacks will retract. It's a safety issue.
Mine acts the same.
one click, how does it act when you select automatic leveling?
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Yep, a dirty, corroded flame sensor can cause a big headache. I'm in the process of cleaning my water heater flame sensor now, non-use allowed it to corrode enough to block the 4 milivolt signal to the control board.
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Does the dipstick feel slick when checking oil level? Don't use a rag in your hand when checking, bare skin will detect oil on the stick if present.
FWIW, internal oil passages are unrelated to oil viscosity, all auto engine mfgrs use lighter weight oils to help meet EPA fuel economy standards. For the last several years, many auto mfgrs now recommend 0W20 synthetic oil to help meet fuel mileage goals.
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You have one final task, investigate why coolant was low, and correct the cause. My Onan 7.5 has never required additional coolant, well, at least since 2013 when we purchased this MH.
Parking Brake
in Chassis
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X2! When water gets into the air brake system things get expensive-and dangerous quickly. If chassis does not have automatic water ejectors, the manual tank drains should be pulled weekly for a MH.