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rayin
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Posts posted by rayin
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If it were mine, I would find the cause of the cracking and remedy that first; perhaps more distributed support underneath would prevent a re-occurrence.
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Richard, I wouldn't care to guess what would remove oil spray/mist from your vent piping, that sounds like a puzzle to me. If it's on anything porous it will soak into the material. In that instance dissipation time, coupled with hot moving air, would be your friend.
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http://www.rvtiresafety.net/search/label/Cold Inflation
On 8/9/2012 at 9:36 PM, tireman9 said:rdtripn,
Just to add a minor clarification on getting the RV weight. Some people try and cut it very close and think they need to weigh and adjust inflation every trip. It really isn't that imporatant as long as you are not overloading the tires or suspension. It is suggested that when you are ready to get the corner weights you have a full fuel & LP, the clothes and food you would pack for a long trip and have the water full. Also, all people and pets in their normal "travel" location. Now if you dump your holding tanks before leaving the campground then you don't have to worry about getting the weight with anything in the holding tanks.
Here is a link to a page that has general RV info and a very good worksheet on how to calculate corner weights. It covers just about every combination of Motorhome or truck & trailer.
Knowing the minimum inflation at your heaviest loading and setting all tires on the same axle to the same inflation based on the heavier side and adding the 5 psi Brett mentioned will mean that when you empty your fuel tank or eat all that food you will not be overloading the tires. Underloading in this case is OK.so you don't need to adjust the inflation down.
Remember check your air with a good gauge each morning before you travel and consider getting a Tire Pressure Monitor System that can warn you if you get a puncture and slow leak.
Roger, your blog article: http://www.rvtiresafety.net/search/label/Cold Inflation says to add 10% to the minimum air pressure for the corresponding load. Which is correct 10% o r 5 psi?
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13 hours ago, richard5933 said:Nuisance would be a kinder phrase than I've been using.
Anyone know a good way to get the oily slightly smoky smell out of the upholstery and drspes? It's not horrible, but it will need attention once I get it back home next week.
Obviously anything washable is going in the machine. Any removable cushions or drapes will start with a day in the sun.
Maybe a few cans of industrial strength odor eliminator. The oil remnants in the HVAC unit are going to be the biggest problem in the end. That old oil has a particular smell that's hard to get rid of.
I'm going to try and add a layer of charcoal filter media to the HVAC main filter to see if it helps.
Odo-ban - https://odoban.com/products/odor-eliminators/
Is what crime scene cleanup crews used back when I was an EMT to eliminate odors. You may either buy ready-to-use spray bottles or buy a gallon of concentrate to mix yourself.
Clean the air conditioner evaporator and condensor coils with regular spray coil cleaner, it is just an extra strong industrial cleaner in foam form,, that washes away with a hose, carrying dirt and oil out too.
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I've had TST TPMS systems since 2005, never have had a bad experience with them. I started out with the TST 510 system that served me well. Now I have the TST 507 system with the MH +towed. It is the flow-through system, which makes adjusting pressure easy, the batteries are user replaceable, and normally last me 3-4 years.
My only concern with this TST 507 is, they keep improving their products, and now I'm 6 years out-dated. If mine would ever break I could buy a new model.
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If it is a 5-button 'stat, download the service manual from bryantrv.com.
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7 hours ago, rvannoy1 said:Sorry that I haven't gotten back to you sooner. I'm not sure exactly sure where the rust is coming from but I have had to clean out lots of rust which has fallen down from above inside the burner area. I have cleaned it our at least 3 times and thought this was the problem now but it still would not work properly after cleaning it this time.
Robert
Thanks for the rest of the information,
That rust is falling down out of the flue, rust is not unusual in the flue because it is bare metal. The less it is used the more it rusts from humidity. The proper maintenance is to remove the roof vent and see if the top of the flue may be accessed for cleaning. The frig many have to be pulled out enough to access the flue otherwise.
The top of the flue has a screw holding a spiral metal piece that extends almost down to the LP burner, it should be removed and cleaned along with the flue pipe.
I suggest the reason the burner is not operating correctly is clogged burner slots. The burner should be removed annually and gently cleaned with a brass wire brush.
An aside, spiders love the odorant in LP and build nests near the burner when it is unused for a length of time.
That technician advised you to not operate the frig on LP due to liability reasons IMO.
Download the Norcold service manual from Bryantrv.com http://bryantrv.com/docs.html
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richard, here is how to cheap out making a gas pedal extender:
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I would request visual confirmation before leaving the store with your batteries, allow them to rest for 4 hrs before re-checking cell status.
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5 hours ago, desertdeals69 said:If you leave the black tank open the solids will build a mountain. Depending how deep the tank is it can pile up and close off the outlet of the toilet.
Yea, I know. That crowd that says that left off one word_ YET.
Herman, that's my method also. It may fail me at some point, but it's worked great since 1974.
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On 8/3/2017 at 10:11 AM, IanBullock said:Family Motor Coaching magazine, January 2017 edition, has a great article covering the rules of entry into Canada.
Page 84, Border Crossings. A great overview.
If you have already tossed your copy, you can view the edition online still.
I doubt 2017 information is valid today, requirements seem to change annually. The best information source are the links to CA border crossing previously poste.
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Wonder what the folks on irv2.com who say they leave BOTH valves open and never had a problem would think about this??
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46 minutes ago, IanBullock said:So I after reading everyone's answers and thoughts on the "Norcold fix", I am left perplexed and wondering about the need for the ARP module.
I mean if Norcold went to the trouble of recalling the fridges to install a cut off to reduce the risk of fire and mitigate their legal risk, if the fix didn't work, wouldn't they still be at significant Legal financial risk?
I mean that wouldn't make sense for Norcold?
What am I missing?
Norcold says their design is safe, the recall involved installing a device that cuts off 12V to the board when the existing over temperature device trips out, it is non-resettable by design so the owner must return to a dealer to have the frig inspected, and a new recall box installed. Rather quickly someone discovered a strong magnet will reset the recall box though. After the class-action settlement an irv2.com member contacted Norcold and inquired about design changes, he said the response was " our design is safe, we made no significant design changes."
Original court notice: https://www.norcoldclassaction.com/Documents/NER_NOT.pdf
My opinion about the Fridge Defend/ARP unit is; it has many safeguards built into it to control boiler temperature and off-level operation Norcold does not have. For instance, the ARP unit quickly detects a boiler temperature changes and turns the heat source off and back on to maintain boiler temperature within a safe range, like when you must park for an hour on a grade/hill it shuts off the heat source until temperature drops, then restarts heat source later. That is explained in detail in the links to the ARP website.
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desertdeal, i found this pdf that explains things in detail, except operating boiling temperature. https://aegiforensics.com/library/pdfs/Invest-Absorpt-Refrig-Fires-Part1.pdf
I was surprised to see the pressure-relief plug is designed to vent at 281deg for a Dometic unit,( note locations) boiler temperature for a Norcold unit is Note 1: 185-195°C - 365-383°F per: .https://www.arprv.com/norcold-cooling-unit-boiler.php#5-early-style-1200 which means I was wrong when I said it was near 700 deg.
EDIT: For anyone interested, here is the Norcold 12xx service manual: http://rvrefrigeratorrepair.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/Norcold-Service-1210
The 1210 model has a re-settable high temperature switch, unlike previous models.
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Lets talk about rust prevention since you are going to replace or coat the interior of the tank. The easiest and most effective way is to always refuel at high-volume filling stations, to reduce the risks of buying water-contaminated fuel.
Always store the MH with a full fuel tank to lessen the normal condensation process where the empty portion of the tank contains moisture-laden air, then normal daytime heating and nighttime cooling collects water in your tank, like mother nature collects dew on the ground every morning.
Hope I haven't offended you with this, but I prefer preventative maintenance over making expensive repairs.
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This is one: https://www.daverootrvglassrepair.com/window-repair-kits.html
And of course there are the utube videos for this: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+repair+a+RV+dual+pane+window
I used to have more bookmarked, but they are now in never-land. Do a search for repair kit for RV dual pane windows.
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desertdeal, doesn't the Norcold recall box shut off the 12V supply when boiler temperature reaches something like 700 deg, or some other ridiculous temperature?
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Check out POR 15 gas tank sealer. Removing the tank might be a problem, but you are going to do it either way.
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15 hours ago, F458085 said:THANKS ALL. i WILL TRY HDT SHOP. DON'T HAVE ONE CLOSE . WILL CHECK ST LOUIS MO. ONE + HOUR AWAY. I WILL LET YOU KNOW. THANKS FOR YOUR INPUT.
I would call and ask before driving in St.Louis traffic.
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Remember, that is a truck chassis modified to build a MH coach on, it will ride like a truck. Shocks do not soften the ride, they are designed to keep the wheels in contact with the road and reduce the bouncing/rebound affect. Unless you already have, look up your tire brand load/inflation chart and adjust air pressure accordingly. The air pressure shown is the minimum to support the corresponding load, add 10% to be safe.http://www.rvtiresafety.net/search/label/Minimum Inflation
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An ambitious person can rebuild a window themselves, the seals and divider strip are sold online.
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7 hours ago, jleamont said:DR, check out this post. Two products are linked and would be the best solution of the roof is fiberglass. If it’s a membrane this is used around most openings. Any RV dealer should have it in hand.
Discussion link;
https://dicorproducts.com/product/epdm-lap-sealants/
I wouldn’t use flexseal on any RV roof.
X2, Flexseal contains petroleum products, at least the can say so.
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Read the terms and conditions (fine print) closely, there are some surprises. For instance, Miss having adequate funds the next day, it's a $25 penalty-each day you have insufficient funds. That's just one.
New Tires
in Tires
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For easier access they should be 180° apart. That is SOP for any vehicle with dual wheels. For instance, Alcoa aluminum rims have 2" holes to access valve stems, imagine 2 at the same 2" hole.
I once bought tires for my dually at Sams Club. When I picked it up the stems were in the same hole in the outer rim. I requested they move them 180° apart and the manager argued with me. I went home, printed out the documentation from a truck tire website and returned. He just looked at me, turned to a worker and instructed him to rotate the outer wheel. I've never even thought about buying tires from Sams Club since.