.gif.e123bd86a877980db2e8cddc1550dec9.gif)
.gif.5f27719098ba1df7b889ef39b144a447.gif)
rayin
-
Content Count
2691 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Posts posted by rayin
-
-
desertdeal, i found this pdf that explains things in detail, except operating boiling temperature. https://aegiforensics.com/library/pdfs/Invest-Absorpt-Refrig-Fires-Part1.pdf
I was surprised to see the pressure-relief plug is designed to vent at 281deg for a Dometic unit,( note locations) boiler temperature for a Norcold unit is Note 1: 185-195°C - 365-383°F per: .https://www.arprv.com/norcold-cooling-unit-boiler.php#5-early-style-1200 which means I was wrong when I said it was near 700 deg.
EDIT: For anyone interested, here is the Norcold 12xx service manual: http://rvrefrigeratorrepair.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/Norcold-Service-1210
The 1210 model has a re-settable high temperature switch, unlike previous models.
-
Lets talk about rust prevention since you are going to replace or coat the interior of the tank. The easiest and most effective way is to always refuel at high-volume filling stations, to reduce the risks of buying water-contaminated fuel.
Always store the MH with a full fuel tank to lessen the normal condensation process where the empty portion of the tank contains moisture-laden air, then normal daytime heating and nighttime cooling collects water in your tank, like mother nature collects dew on the ground every morning.
Hope I haven't offended you with this, but I prefer preventative maintenance over making expensive repairs.
-
This is one: https://www.daverootrvglassrepair.com/window-repair-kits.html
And of course there are the utube videos for this: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+repair+a+RV+dual+pane+window
I used to have more bookmarked, but they are now in never-land. Do a search for repair kit for RV dual pane windows.
-
desertdeal, doesn't the Norcold recall box shut off the 12V supply when boiler temperature reaches something like 700 deg, or some other ridiculous temperature?
-
Check out POR 15 gas tank sealer. Removing the tank might be a problem, but you are going to do it either way.
-
15 hours ago, F458085 said:THANKS ALL. i WILL TRY HDT SHOP. DON'T HAVE ONE CLOSE . WILL CHECK ST LOUIS MO. ONE + HOUR AWAY. I WILL LET YOU KNOW. THANKS FOR YOUR INPUT.
I would call and ask before driving in St.Louis traffic.
-
Remember, that is a truck chassis modified to build a MH coach on, it will ride like a truck. Shocks do not soften the ride, they are designed to keep the wheels in contact with the road and reduce the bouncing/rebound affect. Unless you already have, look up your tire brand load/inflation chart and adjust air pressure accordingly. The air pressure shown is the minimum to support the corresponding load, add 10% to be safe.http://www.rvtiresafety.net/search/label/Minimum Inflation
-
An ambitious person can rebuild a window themselves, the seals and divider strip are sold online.
-
7 hours ago, jleamont said:DR, check out this post. Two products are linked and would be the best solution of the roof is fiberglass. If it’s a membrane this is used around most openings. Any RV dealer should have it in hand.
Discussion link;
https://dicorproducts.com/product/epdm-lap-sealants/
I wouldn’t use flexseal on any RV roof.
X2, Flexseal contains petroleum products, at least the can say so.
-
Read the terms and conditions (fine print) closely, there are some surprises. For instance, Miss having adequate funds the next day, it's a $25 penalty-each day you have insufficient funds. That's just one.
-
Back on topic; I read your comments to say the only cooling issue is when traveling, is this correct? Check the drain tube from the refrigerator into the square cup beside the LP burner box, at least it is supposed to be in the evaporator cup. There is a small plug in the end of the tube with tiny holes it it. This is to drain condensate from the frig of course, and it prevents cool air from being sucked out of the frig by the air while traveling. The plug in the end is to prevent bugs from crawling up the hose while reducing the odds of air transfer.
I have ran my Norcold 1200LRIM on LP every time I drive the MH. Now to the chance of fire, buy a Fridge Defend/ARP unit, its purpose is to keep boiler temperature well below the point where the system is over-pressurized and ruptures, which in many cases results in the solution catching fire when it exits the cooling unit. It will even temporarily shut off the heat source when you are parked on a steep grade, which caused boiler temperature to quickly rise to the danger point. When the temperature falls back into the safe zone the ARP unit returns power to the frig.
Some folks are hesitant to use LP while on the road, and I understand their caution. The majority of MH fires are in diesel pushers, the majority of DP fires are in the engine compartment. Some are switching to residential refrigerators, this lists the top 5 household appliance fires, refrigerator fires are #4: https://www.consumerreports.org/cro/magazine/2012/03/appliance-fires-is-your-home-safe/index.htm
-
Removing the water is the end problem, preventing water from entering is the root problem. I have heard of drilling a 1/16" hole in the lowest point of the headlamp reflector assy, draining the water, removing the bulb, and allowing it to dry for a few days (covered from any water source) then using sealant to seal the hole.
I've never attempted that, as I've never had the problem.
-
This is exactly what Brett stated, in visual form. Copied from "the 12V side of life" Black batteries
-
Contact the chassis manufacturer directly; another source may be a local HDT repair shop.
-
hatfieldd, is this your air conditioner/heat pump? If that is like yours, perhaps etrailer has a thermostat for your unit. BTW, Dometic owns Atwood now.
-
On 7/11/2019 at 6:48 PM, hermanmullins said:On June 11 I wrote that I would update my results to over filling my oil bath hubs. I am going to need to drain the hubs to get the oil level down. My bad. They both slung oil bad. Now drain, refill correctly and clean my wheels.
Herman
I'll be nice and not say it. 😏
-
jc, could it have been one of these threads?:
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f52/tdi-products-outstanding-customer-service-66087.html
https://www.heartlandowners.org/archive/index.php/t-50907.html
If you are considering buying a used reel: https://rvaccessories.visonerv.com/cgi-bin/f/rvelectrical.pl
-
That article was written by a woman who retired from the IRS, and disclosed what was previously confidential information that was only available to tax relief companies, she also created that flow-chart.
None of us will need that information until we run afoul of the IRS.
-
If you aren't sure your present thermostat is working properly, hopefully this pdf will help with diagnosis; http://www.rvcomfort.com/pdf_documents/1976376.pdf
-
That's great, by process of elimination, the cause may be discovered.
-
Would a 2-stage furnace thermostat be adaptable? Use one stage for one AC, 2nd stage for 2nd AC. I don't know, just thinking out loud.
-
This is a different twist on the saying "Don't mess with Texas". Don't mess with taxes.
If I had to deal with that as my job, it would surely give me apoplexy.
-
On 6/10/2019 at 10:04 AM, F433921 said:The fact that the last leg of the trip was driven with normal temperatures observed on all 4 tires by tire sensors and confirmed by heat gun, I doubt the bearing is generating the heat. It's a lot more likely that a brake shoe was dragging.
Plus it's much easier to check the brake than the bearing, if nothing if found on brake then proceed to check bearing.
Jim
Been laid-up with back out of whack, sorry for taking so long. I talked with the HDT shop owner, explained the situation. He suggested it might be a leaking air diaphragm in the spring brake chamber. When I am able to walk and drive without back spasms I'll make an appt.to have it diagnosed and both spring brake chambers replaced, they only cost about $50 ea.
-
I agree with richard5933. In addition, I have a few questions. Have you tested or had the entire 50A cord tested for high resistance and fluctuations under load- megger test? Has the MH main entrance panel been inspected for loose connections, over-heated bus bars, etc?
Norcold Refrigerator
in Systems and Appliances
Posted · Edited by RayIN · Report reply
Norcold says their design is safe, the recall involved installing a device that cuts off 12V to the board when the existing over temperature device trips out, it is non-resettable by design so the owner must return to a dealer to have the frig inspected, and a new recall box installed. Rather quickly someone discovered a strong magnet will reset the recall box though. After the class-action settlement an irv2.com member contacted Norcold and inquired about design changes, he said the response was " our design is safe, we made no significant design changes."
Original court notice: https://www.norcoldclassaction.com/Documents/NER_NOT.pdf
My opinion about the Fridge Defend/ARP unit is; it has many safeguards built into it to control boiler temperature and off-level operation Norcold does not have. For instance, the ARP unit quickly detects a boiler temperature changes and turns the heat source off and back on to maintain boiler temperature within a safe range, like when you must park for an hour on a grade/hill it shuts off the heat source until temperature drops, then restarts heat source later. That is explained in detail in the links to the ARP website.