richard5933

Don't forget to check the width. The new tire would be wider by about 0.4 inches. Not a lot, but sometimes it only takes a little bit to cause a problem. On your rear duals this will bring the tires 0.4" closer, which may or may not be acceptable. You must check the requirements for dual spacing and see if the new tires will have the required spacing when mounted on your wheels.

I don't like it when a tire guy (or tire company) says something "should" be okay. If they can't say with certainty, then the answer should be "no". When you install a tire on a rim narrower than the specified/recommended rim, you usually reduce the weight capacity of the tire. For example, my 315s are recommended to be on 9" rims. If they were mounted on that rim, the max weight capacity is reached at max cold inflation of 130psi. I've got them mounted on 8.25" rims. According to Firestone, it's acceptable but results in a max cold inflation pressure of 120psi. This results in lowering the weight capacity to what's in the chart for 120psi. Switching to a wider rim won't necessarily help either, unless you can guarantee that the extra width can be accommodated by your coach at both extremes of your suspension travel, on all four corners. Lot's of engineering involved. I agree with Herman 100%. Get the proper size tire. They're out there.

Correct. Google is our friend!

Everything you ever wanted to know about Michelin, Firestone, Hankook, and Continental tires. The inflation charts are generally towards the back of the books. Note that the Michelin books show the weights differently in different parts of the books - sometimes it's per wheel, and sometimes it's per axle end. You need to read carefully to be sure you're following the correct chart/line. MICHELIN RV: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=2ahUKEwi8w52ZkcLlAhWBneAKHY6yArgQFjAAegQIARAC&url=https%3A%2F%2Ftiretraker.com%2Fmichelin.pdf&usg=AOvVaw0mv3AzlIsY4we6qfTQia3K MICHELIN COMMERCIAL: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&ved=2ahUKEwiWs4GWkcLlAhViTd8KHZyEBlQQFjACegQIBxAC&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.michelintruck.com%2Fassets%2Fpdf%2FTruck_Tire_Data_Book_Jan2007.pdf&usg=AOvVaw2zTDG0Pmb4VRxyKgcEHb5a FIRESTONE TRUCK & BUS: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=2ahUKEwji9dupkMLlAhXmguAKHfedBHsQFjAAegQIARAC&url=https%3A%2F%2Fcommercial.firestone.com%2Fcontent%2Fdam%2Fbcs-sites%2Fbridgestone-ex%2Fproducts%2FDatabooks%2FTBR%2FFirestone-TBR-DataBook-08-07-2018.pdf&usg=AOvVaw2Ka8_0ZZfv5yFabxq11F8v HANKOOK TRUCK & BUS: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=2ahUKEwjKjZnQkMLlAhXySt8KHZOfA1IQFjAAegQIABAC&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.hankooktire.com%2Fus%2Ffiles%2Ftire-leaflet%2FHK_TBR_2019_Catalog_3rd_Quarter.pdf&usg=AOvVaw0-kW0Y3OyJHfNgiHCZu48J CONTINENTAL TRUCK & BUS: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&ved=2ahUKEwiX0KDqkMLlAhXhct8KHYKdCjYQFjABegQIAxAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fblobs.continental-tires.com%2Fwww8%2Fservlet%2Fblob%2F545220%2Ffe724e72368187b7f28848bd91c2034f%2Fcontinental-data-guide-data.pdf&usg=AOvVaw1MTGmHqCJ4iZ7L_7PCtyTI

In the research I've done, it seems to be best practice to use the load & pressure charts supplied by the manufacturer for the tires you're purchasing. They do make changes in these charts from time to time, so it would be good to get the chart from the current tire data book for your tires.

How did we get from FMCA dues increase to a political discussion?

With dual tires, the one thing to consider (that many overlook) is the required spacing. That gap between the two dual tires must be at least as big as the tire specs require or you may have serious problems. Once you find another tire size that is equivalent to what you had previously, you still need to verify the dual spacing requirements will be met by your existing wheels. A great idea would be to find a reputable commercial tire dealer near you and go ask for their recommendations. They do this every day, and should be able to help you select tires. In my experience, selecting tires is like selecting fabric for a suit. What feels good to one person may not to another. You're considering top tier tires, so quality is not going to be the issue. The things like ride, noise, etc. are subjective and what I consider a great tire others will not like at all. Continental and Hankook make nice tires, as do Toyo and Michelin.

The tire sizes are universal, not specific to a particular brand. In this case it just seems that not many manufacturers are making that size tire. You're not trying to cross reference a 'Michelin' size to another brand's size. What you're trying to do is find a more commonly available size that will work in this application.

Gas is slightly different, but mostly the same. My experience is that gasoline does less well in storage than diesel, especially modern gasoline with all the odd ingredients in it. I'd check with one of the fuel gurus about the best additives for that, particular to your locale (for moisture, temp, & the specific type of fuel mixture pumped in your area). My coach has separate house and chassis battery chargers, and as long as both are turned on I'm good. This could be done with any coach for not much money, and there are many options for keeping the chassis batteries charged from a single house battery charger. The Xantrex Echo Charger is one option. What you don't want to do is just plug in a cheap (dumb) charger and let it run unattended - they typically can boil your battery dry over time. If the chassis batteries are fully charged, the simplest method for keeping them for a few months is to simply disconnect them, usually by way of pulling the negative battery terminal which connects the battery bank to the chassis/ground connection. Depending on the particular setup, it might be necessary to pull multiple ground cable to accomplish this. Label everything and take photos first. Even in extreme cold, a fully charged battery will not freeze. However, if the battery is going to be left disconnected through a stretch of very cold weather it's a good idea to check the state of charge and/or connect a charger from time to time to ensure full charge.

I just parked our coach in its winter parking location behind our barn. It will stay there until I bring it out in early March. Most likely I'll do like past years and not start/run the engine during that time. Of course, I've done all the usual prep including changing fluids, checking condition of antifreeze, etc. I also make certain that all air tanks are properly drained so that moisture doesn't sit in them for months. Doesn't seem like you should have problems starting your engine after a few months idle time. My thought would be to do similar to what I will: check all fluid levels, check condition of air cleaner, and do a visual inspection. If you can crank the engine without starting it, do that for a few seconds first to help circulate the oil. If you can't do this, then avoid running above idle until oil pressure comes up after starting. Of course, if your manual has anything specific about storage and bringing out of storage, that would be the primary route to go.

Here's a clip from the FMCA FAQs page about the TCS card: As a Canadian member of FMCA, is this available to me? Yes, but all transactions use American dollars and are reported in gallons.

With both the FMCA TCS card and the TSD card in hand, I'm able to start running comparisons on the discounts available. There is a TA just outside of Madison WI. Both the TCS and TSD cards are accepted there. With the FMCA TCS card the discounted price for diesel is $2.588/gal. which is about a $0.411 discount from the retail price of $2.999/gal. The TSD card lists the discounted price for the same station today to be only $2.493/gal, meaning that I'd see an additional savings of $0.095/gallon.

Thanks Brett. Hadn't thought about how fine the newer filters are. Our primary filter looks like a sock covering a paper filter. That probably explains why the older engines are more tolerant.

Curiosity begs a question about all the additives... I understand the purpose and necessity for the anti-gel for those, like us, in the frozen north. My question about the other additives for algae, biocides, and stabilizers. I don't see many with older 2-stroke engines using these products, but they seem somewhat common to the modern, 4-stroke Diesel crowd. Is there something about the modern engines or modern fuel systems that make them more finicky and/or susceptible to problems from things like algae? Or have I (and others) just been lucky up till now?

I did get the card last week, and we finally were able to find a way to fund it by using Zelle through my bank's mobile app. Since Zelle can't transmit all the data TCS wants on the transfer, it's necessary to send an email to accounts receivable to let them know about the incoming transfer so they can match it to my card number. I'm told by someone at TCS that they are working on a more automated method for doing this through Zelle in the next couple of months. That should make it much easier. Haven't had a chance to use the card yet, but it's funded and ready. I'll report back once I get to make use of it to report discounts, and I'll go through the app as we travel this weekend to see what stations are listed as 'in network'.

We live in Wisconsin where winters get to -20 or colder, and our coach is stored outdoors. I park mine from the end of November until probably early March. The tank will be full with anti-gel added (in case we need to start/run the coach for some reason). Unless there is absolute need to do so, we won't start the engine until we're ready to drive again in March. Never have had a problem letting the engine sit for a few months like this. When you first start in the spring, be sure oil pressure comes up before you rev the engine above idle. We leave the multi-stage smart charger on the batteries 24/7 - it goes to a maintenance charge once things are fully charged. Other precautions we take are to change fluids & filters and test antifreeze for adequate freeze protection. I try and find a warmer day every month to go out and check the battery water level. Not usually a problem, but I don't want to have the water level drop and not be noticed. One thing that many forget is to fully drain the air tanks. Check your manual to be sure you don't miss a drain point. If you have an air dryer (you probably do) check the manual to see how to confirm that the water is fully drained before the coach is parked. On the generator, we also change fluids & filters as necessary. Battery is topped off, and connected to the smart charger. About once a month, on the occasional warmer day we get through the winter, I'll start the generator and run with about a half load for 30 minutes or so. Usually I use the electric heat inside the coach for the load. Be sure to verify freeze point on your generator antifreeze as well as the main engine. Finding #1 Diesel fuel is easy up here, especially in the winter. More common is finding 'winter fuel' which is blended to help prevent gelling. Since my last fill up is usually before the stations fully switch to winter fuel, I add the anti-gel to the tank. We really don't need it since we don't use the coach in the winter, but it's in there just in case we have reason to start/run the coach. The roads are covered in either salt, salt water, or salt dust from the first snow till early spring, so I will not run the coach unless there is absolute need to. Of course, we also do all the usual winter prep for all the house systems. I use -75 pink RV antifreeze in the freshwater system. Freshwater tank will be fully drained, and do my best to empty the black tank before adding a few gallons of antifreeze to it. I do my best to close any possible entry points for mice, and then lay out a dozen or so large sticky traps unless one gets in. I'll check the traps during my weekly checks on the coach. All food will be removed, and all items in the bathroom which can freeze are removed. Hope this helps.

What's the condition of the battery cables and ground conductors? A bad ground or battery cable would be my first guess. Sometimes they can look good on the outside but still be rotted inside the insulation.

In most of my cabinets and drawers I've used the same rubber pads that usually go under rugs to keep them from sliding on hardwood floors. I get the kind that has no adhesive, but relies on just being somewhat grippy. One of these can be cut into smaller pieces and cover lots of drawer bottoms: https://www.amazon.com/Epica-Super-Grip-Non-Slip-Surface-Floor/dp/B00IAVY52U/ref=sr_1_8?crid=2F10QOANZ14TE&keywords=carpet+anti+slip+pad&qid=1571156430&sprefix=carpet+anti%2Caps%2C174&sr=8-8 For smaller items, I've found that putting things in larger storage boxes makes a huge difference. A few loose items in a bathroom cabinet get jumbled all over - put them together in a 1-quart food storage container and problem is solved. Small/thin bungie cords also help to hold things together and keep them from moving, as do Velcro wrapping cords.

When's the last time you drove your home down the road at 60+ mph surrounded by other drivers on their phones? I agree that $3,400 is a very high premium, but not sure that comparing to a homeowner's policy is an apples-to-apples comparison. Insurance is one of those areas where I've found it best to make use of the assistance of experts. Rather than calling around and shopping this out yourself, have you tried calling a good independent insurance agent? Especially one that has experience insuring motor homes? Good independent agents know where the deals are, they know how to walk things through underwriting to get the proper coverage, and they've already got the low-down on which companies in the area offer the best coverage. Agents can also go to bat for you should there be need to make a claim, as happened when our first coach was hit by a driver who had fallen asleep. We've been with the same independent agency for nearly 20 years. They have written all our policies over the years (home, auto, business, etc.) and I feel that they do a good job looking out for us, including the policy on our motor home.

Did you check the switch(es) that turn the heating element on & off? There might also be a relay in the circuit which is triggered by the switch. Switches and relays can fail, and sometimes they fail in the 'on' position.

We stayed at one park that didn't have a 10-year rule, but they did have a lengthy list of rules detailing what constituted an acceptable RV and what did not. Didn't matter the age, just the condition. Made perfect sense.

Just a guess, but it sounds like the switch to your heated mirrors failed, or the wiring to the switch has a short in it. If you can get to the back side of the mirror heat switch, take a look and see what's going on there. You might find that switch has fused itself in the 'on' position, or that something is shorting against the terminals on the back of it. Possibly the items which went wonky are on the same circuit, but the items which remained functioning (camera and radio) are on the house batteries and not the chassis batteries.

Sticker? Not so much. I have something that looks vaguely similar to the RVIA certification sticker, but nothing official. Never been asked for it either.

We travel in a 45-year-old coach. Yes, it still has factory paint which takes a good shine, but no one is going to confuse our rig for a new one. We've never been turned away from a campground, and we've never even had anyone raise a concern.

Since the TSD card really only offers a decent discount at Loves, I thought it would fill the gap when traveling in places where there aren't Loves stations. I'm about at the end of the effort on this though, unless someone has the answer as to how to make the thing work.