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Like others have said, it would depend somewhat on your make and model, but generally speaking you should be able to walk around on any Class A roof without fear of putting your foot through the ceiling. Now if you have a 20 year old unit and you are tipping the scales at around 300+ you may have an issue. Actually under those circumstances you may not make it up on the roof because half way up the rear ladder it most likely will pull away from the coach and send you tumbling.....

My engine brake also activates the brake lights when I'm using it (which I think is a good idea). Last year there was some Class A owner unhappy with this option and was trying to figure out a way to turn off the brake light feature (different forum). I guess a commercial truck driver followed him down a grade and then asked him at a nearby fuel stop why he was riding his brake all the way down the hill, or something of that nature. I have noticed more and more newer 18 wheelers with this feature now though, so apparently Freightliner and others are not just putting it on "custom" chassis.

Watseka, Iroquois County, know the area well. Used to work that area. I'm guessing the largest RV repair could be Pontiac RV over on I-55. I know there isn't squat for RV dealers in the Bloomington/Peoria area. Other than that you may have to head north to Death City.....or I mean Chicago. Sorry to hear about your hail damage. We were lucky this summer out in SD when a large hail storm missed the CG by just a few miles. Unfortunately I was on I-90 in my Mini Cooper and got $14,000+ worth of damage!

What were the low temps you experienced? How long did they last? Was there a above freezing recovery during the day?

My loaded 24' enclosed trailer comes in just over 10,000 pounds. My 1,200 pound Harley sits all the way up in the tongue.

For towing 4 down you are probably correct. My toad adds over 3000 pounds to my tag as I would suspect it does to about anyone pulling a larger enclosed trailer. So my toad does effect what psi goes in my tag and drive axle tires.

It looks to me like you would be fine with 115 in steer axle and 90-95 in the other six, unless you are pulling a large trailer with a lot of tongue weight on your hitch. Is you coach equipped with some type of TPMS?

We wouldn't have gone on until around 2011. Not only did I learn a ton about my Keystone fiver but RVing and full timing in general.

Sounds like there could be several on here that were members of the Montana forum. Like Wayne, we had a 3400RL, which was our first fiver, and finding that forum was perfect for us as a learning tool. I also go back and visit their site from time to time. Five, I know what you are saying. There is still one older gentlemen on the Montana forum that will throw out misinformation from time to time. Nothing about weights exactly. If you correct him or disagree it will just go on and on, so it is better just to ignore his posts.

Never been a huge fan of roadside assistance plans. GS has sent me free membership the last two years for theirs, not sure why. Maybe it had something to do with my renewal on my regular membership. For a wreck my insurance company will pay for most or all of a tow/recovery. Due to my factory warranty still being in place some mechanical breakdowns could ever be covered. I have went 8 years without a blow out on any RV so I'm way ahead of the game there.

I have been a member of several RV forums since 2011. Probably the best one was my first, a Keystone Montana owners group. Very laid back and friendly with a ton of accurate knowledge not only about our common fivers but camping in general. Then over the next few years I branched out to IRV2 (Newmar section), FMCA, and since we were full time I tried Escapees. IRV2 and FMCA have been fine. I recently got into a bit of a "problem" on Escapees and they decided I had violated a rule and banned me. I requested and received a full refund for my annual membership so I was okay with the whole thing.

I think you can get pretty close by just using your axle weights and going by the charts, or at least close enough not to be underinflated. I certainly would not want to air to maximum psi and then add a little.

Brett has outlined it pretty well. I never placed a diesel RV in storage for the winter, however for years we had to store our twin engine diesel boat up north. I topped off both 150 gallon tanks with fresh #2 diesel and put in additives. With heavy 8D batteries they were always left in place with zero issues. Obviously the motors and generator could not be exercised during storage and everything always worked out fine in the spring. Remember, there are literally thousands of large vessels with diesel engines that are stored up north every winter without being started or "driven" for several months.

Can't really add any new ideas. When we move into a different RV we start by lining about everything with the heavier rubber type non-slip stuff. Then we start arranging each cabinet and drawer so everything fits and packs in fully so it isn't rattling, tipping over, or moving around. It is kind of a process for us and usually takes a couple of months before we get everything just right.

No way! Seven more days and we are heading south to Dandridge TN for some riding in the mountains. Then we will make a stop in eastern TN for a few days before getting to Alabama for November. We don't like to hit SW Florida until after December 1st, just in case November decides to toss in a late season hurricane. Had to stay up here longer this stop to help family.