urbanhermit Report post Posted July 18, 2020 Took the '99 Itasca with the V10 on a trip to a tire shop about 10 miles away. Ran beautifully until two miles from the storage lot and went into limp mode with the Service Engine Soon light home. Barely made it up the one short steep hill to go. Arranged for it to be towed to the chassis garage I use, 27 miles away. Four days later, when I started it to idle across the lot to a position where the wrecker could hook up and pull straight out, the light was out and the engine sounded normal. Had it towed anyway. Wouldn't be same to drive the rest of the way if it did it again half-way there. A week later the garage said "No code. We can't diagnose without a code." Suggested I come down and "drive it around until it does it again, and bring it here without turning off the ignition." That could be a mile. It could be 400 miles. What the heqq do I do now? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sstgermain Report post Posted July 19, 2020 Buy yourself a code reader and when it happens again you will know why the light came on and it went into limp mode Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
urbanhermit Report post Posted July 19, 2020 That sounds suspiciously logical . . . . thankee. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
urbanhermit Report post Posted July 23, 2020 Looked into that code reader/diagnostic tool idea. Available from $70 up to over $300, but it takes the $230 level to display codes. And the counter person told me most only work with the switch in the accessory position and in my case it seems that any code reading disappears when the ignition is tuned off (mechanic told me to bring it to him in limp mode and not turn off the ignition.) So what I'm going to do today is drive in around a 10-mile rural triangle on which the garage is located until I run out of gas, go nuts, or it goes into limp mode. Think Charlie and the MTA. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rayin Report post Posted July 23, 2020 (edited) No need to spend the money unless you want to own a reader. Go to AutoZone and borrow one instead. They have you complete a form that includes your CC number. If you don't return it, you bought them a new one; OR they will reads codes at the store for free. Edited July 23, 2020 by RayIN Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wayne77590 Report post Posted July 23, 2020 In the 10 mile rural triangle it will reset itself until the next ten mile run down the road. 🙂👿 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted July 23, 2020 If you purchase one and keep it in the RV it will most likely cure itself and you'll never need it. Bought a new snowblower a few years ago, didn't snow for two years more than a dusting, and I live in PA Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted July 23, 2020 That's so true! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
campcop Report post Posted July 24, 2020 Get a ScanGuage, runs about $140 , reads codes, can reset codes and programmable. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
urbanhermit Report post Posted July 24, 2020 Update: Drove it on a 5.5-mile triangle with the garage at one point, and at 19.5 miles it went into limp mode. I limped into the shop and the found a code. That's the good news. The bad news is that code can indicate anything from a poorly-seated engine oil dipstick to a C-4 explosion. Acne to decapitation. Shop owner is going to go into some mechanics's forums and see if there's any information that may limit the range of possibilities. I don't know about y'all, but ain't nuffin simple in my life. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
urbanhermit Report post Posted July 24, 2020 5 hours ago, campcop said: Get a ScanGuage, runs about $140 , reads codes, can reset codes and programmable. Thankee, campcop . . it seems I've dodged that bullet, but getting one might be a good idea anyway. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
urbanhermit Report post Posted July 24, 2020 On 7/23/2020 at 1:06 PM, jleamont said: If you purchase one and keep it in the RV it will most likely cure itself and you'll never need it. Bought a new snowblower a few years ago, didn't snow for two years more than a dusting, and I live in PA I have used that phenomenon many times -- never intentionally. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted July 24, 2020 24 minutes ago, UrbanHermit said: Update: Drove it on a 5.5-mile triangle with the garage at one point, and at 19.5 miles it went into limp mode. I limped into the shop and the found a code. That's the good news. The bad news is that code can indicate anything from a poorly-seated engine oil dipstick to a C-4 explosion. Acne to decapitation. Shop owner is going to go into some mechanics's forums and see if there's any information that may limit the range of possibilities. I don't know about y'all, but ain't nuffin simple in my life. What was the code? Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted July 25, 2020 Just out of curiosity...did he pull the dip stick, checked for proper level of oil and re seat it? Bet not. Save 5 cents on a code reader to spend a dollar! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rcieslak67 Report post Posted July 26, 2020 (edited) That is the sad side of electronic engine control. You have a motorhome that is 20 years old and over the years you can get corrosion in any number of places. Does the engine sound ok when it is not in limp mode. Is the engine oil level were it is supposed to be , does your dash indicator show engine oil pressure? This does sound like a possibility of a defective sensor that only indicates itself when it wants to. How many miles do you have on this engine? I was an engine development engineer at Ford for 37 years and electronic engine control can be very frustrating. Obviously, the newer electronics have been vastly improved. Did you know that Ford has stopped producing the V 10 engine. They have come out with a pushrod replacement called the "Godzilla." It produces more torque and horsepower and is cheaper to produce for Ford going back to old technology. There are at least 3-4 versions of this new engine and each version produces different power levels. Should make a difference in the gas powered RV Industry and they are now available and in production. Edited July 26, 2020 by rcieslak67 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
urbanhermit Report post Posted July 27, 2020 On 7/24/2020 at 6:31 PM, WILDEBILL308 said: What was the code? Bill Dunno. Shop owner/manager read it to me from a hand-held whatever, then started reading a litany of possible causes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
urbanhermit Report post Posted July 27, 2020 (edited) "does sound like a possibility of a defective sensor that only indicates itself when it wants to." That was my thought. 74,000 +/- runs beautifully the rest of the time. Gauge has always shown good oil pressure, about midway on the ok band. Haven't checked oil level since the last change, which was around 2,000 ago, but oil consumption has never been an issue. Before replacing the fuel pump (and the tank, unnecessarily), the engine would lose power but in a different manner -- irregular, splutters, surges, and accompanied by sledgehammer shifts. Turned out that the rubber lines between pump and metal lines were deteriorating inside. We'd found extremely fine black sediment and grey fuel in the filter that a very knowledgeable garage owner misdiagnosed as a delaminating fuel tank, but all this went away with the new pump and new rubber lines, and two new fuel filters. This last two occurrences of limp mode, weak power but steady, unvaried pull and sound, are something different. Didn't know about Godzilla, but it sounds excellent. Edited July 27, 2020 by UrbanHermit Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
urbanhermit Report post Posted July 27, 2020 On 7/24/2020 at 7:24 PM, manholt said: Just out of curiosity...did he pull the dip stick, checked for proper level of oil and re seat it? Bet not. Save 5 cents on a code reader to spend a dollar! Believe I'd spend two dollars for a crystal ball like yours. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted July 27, 2020 Don't know about crystal ball, but we are all trying real hard to come up with a possible solution to your problem. 😃 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
urbanhermit Report post Posted July 30, 2020 Just scanned this thread again, saw some responses I hadn't seen before -- thanks to y'all too. "Pooh" -- Pooh the Winnie -- is serving time at the garage while its owner hunts around auto mechanics' websites for information that will let her narrow the field of possibilities before she starts burning mechanic time shooting in the dark. Since we have Mother Superior, the Cayman 36 DP to spend money on, I'm fine with that. And speaking of: I'm an experienced boater, a Bluewater Boatyarder. We speak of "boat units." Discussing costs in terms of boat units isn't nearly as painful as using general terms for money. A boat unit is $1,000. Since RVs are boats on wheels, I propose the use of the term "RV units." Same $1,000. Example: " I had to replace the refrigerator, but it only cost a little over two RV units." Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rayin Report post Posted July 30, 2020 13 hours ago, UrbanHermit said: Just scanned this thread again, saw some responses I hadn't seen before -- thanks to y'all too. "Pooh" -- Pooh the Winnie -- is serving time at the garage while its owner hunts around auto mechanics' websites for information that will let her narrow the field of possibilities before she starts burning mechanic time shooting in the dark. Since we have Mother Superior, the Cayman 36 DP to spend money on, I'm fine with that. And speaking of: I'm an experienced boater, a Bluewater Boatyarder. We speak of "boat units." Discussing costs in terms of boat units isn't nearly as painful as using general terms for money. A boat unit is $1,000. Since RVs are boats on wheels, I propose the use of the term "RV units." Same $1,000. Example: " I had to replace the refrigerator, but it only cost a little over two RV units." Well in that case, I just had my MH engine repaired, only cost 5 units+. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
