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bobbyks

Charger and Inverter Setup for Shore Power

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I own a 2008 40-C Mandalay, 50-amp system, ME 2012 Magnum charger/inverter.

About a month ago I changed out the four house and start batteries. I keep the coach plugged in to a 30-amp system at home when not traveling in order to run fridge and one AC due to hot humid weather in south Louisiana.

I noticed today with the fridge running and the one AC running, the VAC had dropped to 105 to 108 on several outlets.I was pulling 22 amps with battery indicating 12.3, charger on and inverter off.

My question is, what is the proper setup for the charger/inverter when connected to shore power? I have been told not turn the inverter on when connected to shore power. The 105/108 vac concerns me.

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Several issues.

Yes 105 is too low to be running A/C.

And, 12.3 VDC on the batteries indicates a 50% discharged battery-- so, clearly they are not being charged.

On some inverters, the switch only functions when no shore or generator power present-- i.e. on or off makes no difference when plugged in.

On others, the switch does control charger section.

22 amps @ 120 VAC indicates that you have some other heavy load going-- that is more than one A/C and refrigerator, particularly since the charger did not appear to be on. Water heater? Block heater?

Short term, turn off A/C, get the charger section going. Many inverter/chargers offer a "power share or power save" feature-- you can limit the number of amps of 120 VAC that it can use to charge the batteries. Since you want to be able to run other things on limited power, I would set this to the lowest setting-- often 5 amps-- which will charge the batteries around 40 amps @14 VDC.

And, also living in a hot, humid place (south Texas) I would suggest another way to control humidity. You will use a lot less power by installing a home dehumidifier in the coach while stored and setting it at 50% humidity. Drain it into the gray tank.

Brett

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Do you have AC Power from the 2 AC Circuits when the inverter is off? And what voltage are you reading? The internal transfer switch can cause voltage issues.

What is the charge voltage across the house batteries with the inverter turned off?

The ME2012 is a 200 amp modified sine wave output inverter. With a 30 amp AC input being common and 2-120 volt AC outputs with one 15 amp circuit breaker and a 20 amp breaker. The input and output breakers / reset button are located close to the bottom edge, externally just behind and below the AC access cover.

With the coach plugged in the inverter would not need to be running. AC power would be supplied from shore power. With the Inverter running, the internal transfer switch connects the AC input to the charger, charging the batteries; that in turn power the inverter portion supplying ac power to the 2 AC outputs built into the unit.

This is a link to the owners manual should you not have one handy.

http://www.magnumenergy.com/Literature/Manuals/Inverters/64-0002%20rev.%202%209-03%20%28ME%20Series%29.pdf

What size and style batteries are installed, Wet or AGM and are they 6 volt or 12 volt house batteries ?

There should be a fuse between the alternator and the Charger. The size can very depending on the output of the alternator.

The output fuse size for your inverter could be a 175 or 200 amp fuse.

Rich.

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I turned the AC off. Voltage came back to 120 V, batteries indicating 13.3.

Can I leave the charger and inverter on while hooked to shore power. The batteries are wet -6 V (4).

I may need to check, when I noticed drop in VAC to 105 I was running the front AC, never noticed a drop when running the rear.

For some reason the middle AC unit will only operate on Gen or 50A shore.

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With the load running and no load check the voltage at the 30 Amp outlet box. Are you at home or a campground ? Should you be at a camp ground, measure the voltage at the 120 volt outlet next to your 30 amp connection. If its low then there is a problem with the shore power source. The same condition could be happening at home if the wire gauge is not the proper size to carry the required current. The other point(s) to check are the connections at all the plugs and sockets. Loose or damaged contacts can also cause issues and one never knows when they will pop up.

ONE Must make sure all circuit brakes and power sources are disconnected or off.

For proper voltage readings, ALL the connections must be tight and clean for the 120 volt circuits and the 12 volt circuits to operate properly.

Running 2 AC units on a 30 amp circuit is right at the limit for that sized circuit.

The middle AC unit is wired into the second 120 volt side of the power box and is not available on any source less the 50 amps.

Could you post some information on where you are connecting to get power to the coach? Are you home or on the road?

Hard to forward good information with limited information.

Did you have the problem before the batteries where replaced at the same location you are currently parked?

Rich.

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To answer the question of whether you can leave your charger on 24/7 the answer is yes, IF you have it properly programmed. See your inverter/charger manual for programming instructions.

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I am at home, ran the following checks with air on:

Shore side 112 V, inside MH 108 V.

Air off shore 118 V MH 118 V.

Smart EMS load meter with air on reading 16 A,

Magnum reading 0 A with 13.3 battery.Battery charger on.

Wire feeding recepticle on shore side is AWG 12 Type CU 3CDR 600V. Should this wire handle the load requirement ?

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AWG 12 is a little light for 30 amp loads, AGW 10 would be a better choice, but I need to ask how long is the run between the coach shore connector and the feed panel.

With the readings you are getting I would lean towards to 10 Gage and if its a long run 8 Gauge.

Rich.

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Yup, what is the length of wire run from house breaker box to your RV outlet?

And, with a 50 amp shore power cord, assume you are using your 50 amp cord and a very short 30 male to 50 female adapter rather than using a 30 amp cord and then adapting "up" to 50 amp at the coach. Bottom line-- less voltage drop with larger-gauge wire.

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From the 30 A breaker to the outlet is about 80 feet, I use a 16 inch 30 to 50 A reducer, I am thinking I have too much pull on the the 12 gauge wire.

I am going to have my electrical buddy check all connections for tightness and possible change out wire to 10 or 8 g wire.

Thanks all for input, this what makes FMCA a top notch organization.

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Here is detailed info on the remote which is used with that Magnum inverter/charger...

http://www.magnumenergy.com/Literature/Manuals/Remotes/64-0003%20Rev%20D%20(ME-RC).pdf

There are a number of user adjustable settings within this remote/display. The default settings

are found on page 17 of the above guide.

Two things to remember, there have been software updates so check your 'revision number'

It is found within the display on the ME-RC remote.

Secondly, Magnum makes a newer remote with advanced features which will work

with the ME-2012. It does a bunch of additional things but is pricey.

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Several things here. Starting off with 112V is not enough(poor to begin with) because soon as you add loads like the AC it will drop the voltage below acceptable levels as you soon found out and running a 30 amp 80 ft #12 extension just adds fuel to the fire.Should use #8, PLUS how far is the 30 amp outlet away from your original power to house inlet? Check the out voltage at the receptacle.

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Here is detailed info on the remote which is used with that Magnum inverter/charger...

http://www.magnumenergy.com/Literature/Manuals/Remotes/64-0003%20Rev%20D%20(ME-RC).pdf

There are a number of user adjustable settings within this remote/display. The default settings

are found on page 17 of the above guide.

Two things to remember, there have been software updates so check your 'revision number'

It is found within the display on the ME-RC remote.

Secondly, Magnum makes a newer remote with advanced features which will work

with the ME-2012. It does a bunch of additional things but is pricey.

Maybe someone can advise me on the optimum settings with my ME-RC connected to my ME-2012 Magnum units.

I have 4 golf cart (Trojan T-105's) six volt batteries in my 'house' bank, and 2 twelve volt batts (no name's) in my chassis bank.

This is a stock set up in a 2006 Monaco diesel.

Have spent time looking at the settings and expect mine are close, but not sure.

Thx!

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I have the ME2012 and after setting on on charge for awhile it goes into battery saver mode.  I don't fully understand how it works but when setting with no load the panel 12.6 volts 0 amps as if the charger is off.  When the basement heater kicks on the voltage is still 12.6 but may read 37 amps.  I would think the voltage would bump up also.  The battery appears to holding a charge.   

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Ray,

Is your heater 12 VDC?

If 120 VAC is it on an inverter-supplied circuit?

12.6 VDC is fine for a battery at rest, but low for a battery on charger in float mode.  13.2 VDC is a more common float voltage.

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The basement heater is 12 volts.  Cargo heater with blower and tank heat pads in the basement.  The coach is plugged into 120 volts 20 Amp max and I set the monitor to 20 amp.  I'm not sure if it's float charge but on standby in battery saver mode.  

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With 20 amp shore power (assuming you have limited other 120 VAC loads) your inverter/charger should be set to "power save"/"power share"  (those are Xantrex terms-- I don't know the Magnum terms), so that it doesn't try to use more 120 VAC than is "left over" and if properly programmed, it should have a float level voltage in the low 13's.

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On my Magnum, it would read 30 A. & I would dial it to 10 A.  on each inverter.

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The forum needs to some how be programmed that if a post is over a certain age, there will be a note or some kind of notification.  I was about two thirds through this thread before I realized it was five and a half years old.😝

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1 minute ago, FIVE said:

The forum needs to some how be programmed that if a post is over a certain age, there will be a note or some kind of notification.  I was about two thirds through this thread before I realized it was five and a half years old.😝

But, the last 5 posts (6 counting yours) are current (within last 24 hours) and on the same topic.

As long as the new posts are on the original subject, not sure it would be a positive to require starting a brand new thread on exactly the same subject.

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We where board, but I agree with Brett, since the same questions from a new OP, keeps coming up!  Rather have it on a continuation loop, than  to start over!

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To continue this topic I did more research of ME-2012 problem.  I started the generator and it went went quickly to bulk charge for a few minutes then to absorb charge for about 4 hours.  The it went to float charge showing battery voltage and 0 amps.  I shut off the generator and plugged the shore power in and did the same thing.  I factory reset the ME-RC standard remote with no results.  Then I hard reset the ME-2016 with all power disconnected from it.  When I restore battery power and plugged in the shore line the charger went quickly to bulk then to absorb for a couple of hours then to float showing battery voltage and 0 amps.  That is the same as it did when running the generator.  

The inverter and charger works but not float charging anymore.  I remember when fully charge the panel would read charge completer and the standby light would blink.  I don't know why the float charge is not working.  Maybe keep an eye on it and see if the battery goes dead.  

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Ray,

What were your battery voltages at each stage of charging and then after the inverter/charger showed zero amps?

And, there should be absolutely zero difference in charging algorithms between powering the inverter/charger on generator or shore power.

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