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wolfe10

50 Amp Outlet Checker

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New product on the market. Plug it into a 50 amp outlet before connecting your shore power cord.

It warns of:

Open line on L1 or L2

Breaker off or tripped

Reverse polarity L1 or L2

Faulty ground or neutral

It indicates by both LED and voice if the connection is OK or what the problem is.

http://50amppowerpal.com/

It would save you many times its cost if you plugged into a 50 amp outlet with open neutral without knowing it! I t could also save your life or the life of your pet if it keeps you from plugging into an outlet with reverse polarity!

LOTS easier than the old way (Fluke meter and probes and making 5 different checks-- hot L1 to neutral, hot L2 to neutral, neutral to ground, either hot to ground and L1 to L2).

And, with a 30 male to 50 amp female adapter, it can be used to check 30 amp outlets as well. Add a 15 male to 30 amp female adapter and it will check 15/20 amp also.

Getting lazy in my old age.

No, I don't work for them or have any financial interest in the company, but I like the concept for those not interested in exercising their digital VOM's before plugging in or taking a chance on doing damage to the coach electrical system.

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Looks like a good product if you don't want to, or do not know how to use a vom.

Thanks for the link Brett!!

A good investment for those who do not understand electricity, and the detriments of reversed polarity, and open grounds.

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I just went online and purchased the 50 amp power pal. I've been looking for something like this since I learned the hard way. We were at a very nice RV park hooked everything up like I normally do even with a surge protector. I was outside of our coach the wife was inside turned on the AC and when it came on I heard "pow, pow" and the wife said she smelled something burning. Turned out that I blew the capacitors on the AC and burned out the energy management circuit board. It all happened within seconds... The mechanic said I was lucky that the coach didn't catch on fire. Since then I always check the outlets before I plug in.

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I have the surge guard with all that built in. Simple process to follow is plug in the surge guard first by itself and check the LED's on the surge guard. If all green LED lights than it is OK to plug in to the surge guard and it will still protect against surge and spikes. Also you can always check at a glance if there is any problem as a red LED would light up.

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/portable-surge-guards-with-lcd-display-50-amp/58465

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Ray, I have a built in surge guard and a portable for post...the thing that I found on my Summer travel is that some of the time, the post and outlet was too close to the ground and I could not use the portable guard! Also, the portable is heavy, expensive, long & large and you have to wait for it! <_<

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I have two testers I made myself. I used them quite a few times at our Rally in Shreveport. I have one for 30 amp and one for 50 amp. On the 30 amp I can check L1, Neutral and Ground and also voltage. On the 50 amp I can check L1, L2, Neutral, Ground and Voltage. Both will check for faulty grounds.

I will be glad to show pictures if you will PM me.

Herman

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Carl I never had a place I couldn't plug in even at Redmond,OR event where the outlets were on the ground. BTW 1 of the 4 outlet was bad and I reported it and got it fixed protecting another person coach. Had no problem even though the unit was laying on the ground Jim that looks like a good unit also but I decided to stay portable and don't regret it. I like the continue protection than just checking with a meter device.

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I purchased the Progressive Industries 50 amp wired protector like Jim is showing. Had a bad experience at Dakota Ridge RV Park in Golden, CO. I like the wired version in that it cannot "get legs" and be stolen. So far it has served me well and continuously checks both lines etc.

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I use a portable PI 50amp protector. Considered the built in, but decided that I was likely going to change coaches within the next year, so went portable. Works very well. Guess it could grow legs, but so far no issues.

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Ray, I was also plugged in at Redmond and did use the portable. After Redmond, my coach lived in a RV park in Portland while I did a 14 day cruise to Alaska. The electric box was about 6" off grass! Had the same problem in Ogden, Utah...Dolores, CO., Birmingham, AL. and Galax, Virginia! That's just a few...Now, having said that, I will not know if the Power Pal will fit any better. I will let you all know!

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Jack you can use one of these to slow down it getting legs but not fool proof. A simple screwdriver can make a wired one get legs also. It would only take seconds to remove coach end of cord with power screwdriver and you would be left with raw wires on the ground. Not pretty.

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/surge-guard-universal-lock-hasp/44333#readreviews

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Jack you can use one of these to slow down it getting legs but not fool proof. A simple screwdriver can make a wired one get legs also. It would only take seconds to remove coach end of cord with power screwdriver and you would be left with raw wires on the ground. Not pretty.

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/surge-guard-universal-lock-hasp/44333#readreviews

They would need to break the lock on the bay door before getting close to the EMS. They would then need to remove the EMS from the wall where 4 screws hold it, remove the cover from the EMS, unscrew the wires from the terminals. Doable? You bet but not in "seconds".

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Jim you would have even more of a mess on your hands but I'm not trying to scare anyone or shake anything up. Still will be out in less than a minute (seconds). Rather that dwell on if valuables can get legs, lets focus on protection of our coaches electrical system and electronics as Brett posted.

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The problem I see with the product that Brett mentioned is that many of the power boxes I have dealt with would not have enough room for that entire box to fit into. Since the plug is attached directly to the back you need width and depth and height clearance to get that thing plugged in. Otherwise, it appears to be a very good idea. I also have the hardwired Surge Guard and it had saved me twice from improperly wired posts.

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/50A-Hardwire-Surge-Guard/69523/&?&affiliateid=3274&cvsfa=2734&cvsfe=2&cvsfhu=3639353233&gclid=Cj0KEQiA-PGiBRDRz4jH9o39yZwBEiQAWCBZNaR8IpCLVefPvIYVTphdRStqLBUAZbeFE35Bg3E6P1waAq9y8P8HAQ

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Bill, I just noticed that you need a remote monitor to read out the fault if it shuts you down. The portable has it built on the unit. I wonder why??

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Bill, I was thinking the same thing! I also carry a lot off adaptors, 50/30, 50/50, 30/15. I found a 50/50 at my local Wall Mart yesterday and it has a 14 inch cable...never seen one before, novel idea! Plug into power pal, then post...space problem solved.

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I also use a 30 Amp portable Surge Guard and have had some issues with it laying on the ground on occasion - however, I figured out a way to prevent it from walking. I used a lock with a long shank that just fits over the heavy wire and then secure that with a chain to the pedestal. Someone would think twice about removing it as other portable surge guards are not secured to the pedestal at all would present an easier target.

Yes, the Surge Guard has saved my electrical system several times - problems are usually reverse polarity at older parks.

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I have a surge protector mounted in my electrical bay. Once you plug in it takes about 2 minutes to go through the checks system before there is any power to the coach. I sent the info on this to the person I just purchased the coach from and he says this is not needed as the surge protector will give fault indicators on the panel face and if something is wrong you unplug from the power. Since I am not an electrical wizard I am asking the "smarter than me" crowd, is this correct?

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If the surge protector has all the proper checks, ie., checks L1 and L2, for faults such as overvoltage, reversed polarity, open grounds, then I would agree with the previous owner.

The device that Brett mentioned would for those who do not have the test ability already installed. And as others mentioned on the forum, have their own means for testing. Personally

I use a multimeter (volt ohm meter), but I have used this and other devices for over 55 years, and am comfortable with my method.

Welcome to the forum, and hope you have many happy trails, and tales!

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Do you have the owners manual to confirm what the correct sequence should be? If not, go on line to get the manual and it should answer your questions - What model do you have?

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This device doesn't measure the voltage between L1 and L2. My Power Control System requires 240v between L1 and L2 to recognize a 50 service. I have come across a couple of parks where L1 and L2 were on the same phase and thus measured 0v so my Power Control System saw the connection as a 30 amp service.

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