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Allison Transmission Codes

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On 2/13/2017 at 7:52 PM, Strats said:

Thanks for your help.  I was able to pick up the filter at Cummins today.  I replaced both filter's without any problems.  The coach runs great now.  I checked the codes after taking a nice 50 mile drive and it showed  5--0.  No codes in D1, 2, 3.4 or 5.  Can you tell me what this code is? I don't see a fault code for that 5--0.  Thanks again!

Not running right again.  New fuel filters and air filter.  Code 5--0.  Barely going through the gears.  It will die out and smoke blue then pick up again.  Not really able to drive it on the road.  I have been testing it in my storage area.  Any idea's.  ECU.  When the batteries are turned off during storage, will the ECU reset or do you actually have to disconnect the battery terminals?

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Strats, sounds like an engine lack of power problem rather than transmission i.e. blue smoke. Lack of engine power will make the transmission act up as its not receiving the power it is expecting, odd shifts, banging in and out of gear are just a few symptoms that would be common.

What year engine is in your coach and do you know if its a mechanical diesel engine or electronic? I'm betting low fuel pressure/volume to the injection pump. With that being said how old are the fuel filters? Can you change them and cut them open to see if they are loaded with crud?

Lastly, are you sure the smoke is blue and not more of a white color?

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Also, code 50 looks like "engine speed to low". I believe you have a fuel system problem, not a transmission problem.

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Do you have a Jake Brake. Does this problem occur just after using your Jake Brake? The engine may not be returning to proper operating mode. If you have an exhaust brake it may not be opening back up completely.

Herman

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37'-1998 Holiday Rambler.  Freightliner chasis. Cummins ISB275 Turbo Diesel pusher with a Allison 6 speed.  Mechanical.   Both filters brand new.  Actually replaced the front filter twice thinking it may have gummed up from some bad gas.  Smoke looks more blue than white.  When giving gas in first gear it doesn't want to go and just bogs out and starts to smoke.  When in neutral it will rev up but when in gear it doesn't want to go. periodically it will go a little but then bog down again.  I replaced the intake air filter also.  Neither filter looked packed with junk.  Yes it has an exhaust brake and it seemed to work fine when it ran.  Starts right up and idles fine.  just under load in gear it bogs down.  I can't drive it on the road.  It's either not getting enough fuel or I guess the exhaust brake could be locking closed.  What is the fix with the brake, can it be bypassed or how is it checked?  It almost seems like the ECU isn't communicating right.  What would you do if it was yours.  I really can't drive it to a mechanic and I do all my own work on my cars, just new to diesels and I don't have the cummins engine code reader.  I have driven this over 3000 mile and it started on the way back from Florida.  It seems not to be getting gas and thats why I started with the filters,  

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does it smoke at idle or only under load when it looses power?

It could be one of three things from your description;

clogged filter due to bacteria in the fuel

bad lift pump

bad fuel injection pump

your engine has a mechanical lift pump. It's located on the passenger side of the engine, also should incorporate a hand pump to prime the filter. You will need to have it tested, I believe they put out 8 psi under load. Not a bad job, usually just tying a gauge inline with the outlet line off of the pump. The last one I bought was last year and it was around $80.00 if memory serves me.

Good thing for you it's an old school mechanical engine, much more cost effective for parts and labor and a hole lot easier to work on. 

After the last filter change it did run better correct? If so I would pull the primary filter and cut it open. For the $20.00 filter it's step one in diagnosis. 

Where are you located, home etc?

Since I'm sure you are not equipped to test fuel pressure, see if you have a mobile diesel mechanic in your area, maybe call a local Cummins dealer and ask if they offer road services or if the can recommend someone. Beyond the filter check that might be your best bet without throwing parts at it.

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1 hour ago, jleamont said:

does it smoke at idle or only under load when it looses power?

It could be one of three things from your description;

clogged filter due to bacteria in the fuel

bad lift pump

bad fuel injection pump

your engine has a mechanical lift pump. It's located on the passenger side of the engine, also should incorporate a hand pump to prime the filter. You will need to have it tested, I believe they put out 8 psi under load. Not a bad job, usually just tying a gauge inline with the outlet line off of the pump. The last one I bought was last year and it was around $80.00 if memory serves me.

Good thing for you it's an old school mechanical engine, much more cost effective for parts and labor and a hole lot easier to work on. 

After the last filter change it did run better correct? If so I would pull the primary filter and cut it open. For the $20.00 filter it's step one in diagnosis. 

Where are you located, home etc?

Since I'm sure you are not equipped to test fuel pressure, see if you have a mobile diesel mechanic in your area, maybe call a local Cummins dealer and ask if they offer road services or if the can recommend someone. Beyond the filter check that might be your best bet without throwing parts at it.

Yes it ran better briefly when I replaces the filters.   After a few miles it started cutting out again so I replaced the first filter thinking it may have caught some of the contaminated fuel in the tank it if had some.  I have the filter I replaced it with the first time for less than 50 miles and the original filter from which I purchased the coach.  I'm located in Cincinnati Ohio just a few miles away from corporate FMCA.  I didn't realize it had a fuel pump and a fuel lift.  I can just replace either or both if need be.  I just don't want to start chasing my tail and not resolving the issue or issues!. I figured fuel and air to make it run.  Thanks for your help!

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Strats,

A quick way to check if you have contaminants in your filter when shortly after you began to loose power is to take you last filter out and look at the top and then cut it into. This way you can see if the filter has done it job and stopped the contaminants from your engine. If you find none than it would be time to look to the lift pump. Just a little less costly check.

Herman 

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Strats, the lift pump is nothing more (on your era engine) than an old style mechanical fuel pump, it supplies fuel to the fuel injection pump. Think of it as a fuel pump on an old car with a carburetor, same concept. Now the fuel injection pump in those years is timed and a bit more tricky to replace and probably a Bosch 7100 series fuel injection pump, usually cost around $2500.00. They are usually pretty strong however the new diesel fuel will chew them up due to lack of lubricants as well as low supply pressure from clogged filers or a weak lift pump. See if you have a diesel fuel injection shop around you, they could pull it, test it and repair/rebuild it if need be. That would be the cheapest route. Either way someone will need to check fuel pressure going to that injection pump for proper diagnosis. 

Hermans recomendation on the exhaust brake is also a simple check, make sure it's open and if possible disconnect it and mechanically hold it open (get creative). Usually when these engage you can hear an exhaust note change (sounds like a vacuum cleaner back at the tail pipe). 

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Can I take the fuel lift off and take it to the Cummins shop on the other side of town or should I just go ahead and replace it it.  This 1998 rig only had 68,000 miles on it but I don't want to just start replacing thing just to replace unless the part can go bad from sitting too long.  2,500.00 installed?  What do you think the part is if picked up at Cummins and I install it would cost?  Cummins is closed on the weekends.  I would like to increase horespower when I can so is there a larger lift pump or performance lift pump I can install to help add power without changing injectors.  I did buy a million mile Flowmaster cleanable non oil performance air intake filter.   Can the exhaust break be taken of and cleaned up and be tested on the bench or is it common to just go bad and stick in the closed position.  To be clear, It has a fuel pump and a fuel lift.  If I understand, the lift comes up the frame on the freight-liner chasis and into the filter. Can I make a gauge in the bottom of the filter to check pressure where the drain valve is?  Is the fuel pump located in front of the lift.  Can I put a pressure gauge inline after the fuel pump and read the pressure.  It should read how many pounds? I think you said 8.   Are the pumps rebuidable or just the lifts.  Thanks again.

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Your lift pump should be on the side of the engine depending on your serial number. Looks like this;

if electric that gives you more options, take a peak around and snap some photos.

 

IMG_3139.JPG

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On 3/10/2017 at 4:08 PM, Strats said:

37'-1998 Holiday Rambler.  Freightliner chasis. Cummins ISB275 Turbo Diesel pusher with a Allison 6 speed.  Mechanical.   Both filters brand new.  Actually replaced the front filter twice thinking it may have gummed up from some bad gas.  Smoke looks more blue than white.  When giving gas in first gear it doesn't want to go and just bogs out and starts to smoke.  When in neutral it will rev up but when in gear it doesn't want to go. periodically it will go a little but then bog down again.  I replaced the intake air filter also.  Neither filter looked packed with junk.  Yes it has an exhaust brake and it seemed to work fine when it ran.  Starts right up and idles fine.  just under load in gear it bogs down.  I can't drive it on the road.  It's either not getting enough fuel or I guess the exhaust brake could be locking closed.  What is the fix with the brake, can it be bypassed or how is it checked?  It almost seems like the ECU isn't communicating right.  What would you do if it was yours.  I really can't drive it to a mechanic and I do all my own work on my cars, just new to diesels and I don't have the cummins engine code reader.  I have driven this over 3000 mile and it started on the way back from Florida.  It seems not to be getting gas and thats why I started with the filters,  

Your 98 Cummins ISB 275 has an electric lift pump which is located on the passenger side of the engine close to the trans.  If it fails the engine will still run until the injection pump VP44 fails.  I just went through the whole process with my new to me coach.  I installed an Air Dog lift pump system and a reman VP44 injection pump.  Runs good now, putting on about 4500 miles.

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a 97 engine is a mechanical.  He says its a ISB275 which is a 98 or newer 24 valve.   I took mine stock lift pump off when I did the mods.

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21 hours ago, desertdeals69 said:

Your 98 Cummins ISB 275 has an electric lift pump which is located on the passenger side of the engine close to the trans.  If it fails the engine will still run until the injection pump VP44 fails.  I just went through the whole process with my new to me coach.  I installed an Air Dog lift pump system and a reman VP44 injection pump.  Runs good now, putting on about 4500 miles.

Did you do the work yourself or have it done.  If you don't mind what was the price either way without being to bold to ask

 

21 hours ago, desertdeals69 said:

Your 98 Cummins ISB 275 has an electric lift pump which is located on the passenger side of the engine close to the trans.  If it fails the engine will still run until the injection pump VP44 fails.  I just went through the whole process with my new to me coach.  I installed an Air Dog lift pump system and a reman VP44 injection pump.  Runs good now, putting on about 4500 miles.

 

21 hours ago, desertdeals69 said:

Your 98 Cummins ISB 275 has an electric lift pump which is located on the passenger side of the engine close to the trans.  If it fails the engine will still run until the injection pump VP44 fails.  I just went through the whole process with my new to me coach.  I installed an Air Dog lift pump system and a reman VP44 injection pump.  Runs good now, putting on about 4500 miles.

Is that the pump that is timed with the motor timing?

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It's barely running now.  It won't idle long and definitely won't drive.  I drained a little fuel out of the filter which made things worse. 

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50 minutes ago, Strats said:

It's barely running now.  It won't idle long and definitely won't drive.  I drained a little fuel out of the filter which made things worse. 

I got it started today.  Took a few tries but started and felt like it was ok.  I drove it around the parking lot a couple times and then it died again.  idled it back to my spot.  I was hoping it had an air lock, I don't think so now!  Again, thanks for your help.  What is the part number for the Air Dog and VP44.  I would like to up grade.  It has a Banks intake and a few banks gauges but the previous owner said it was disconnected because of Cummins warranty on a head gasket but I would like to increase the fuel.  I did put a K&N air filter and would be curious what it would take to hook the Banks up again, possibly a larger turbo also.  I'm not sure what performance mods can be done!

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Strats, I put a Fass pump on our coach. Pump cost $460 ish. 

If you can photo it I could probably ID what pump you need. 

 

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5 hours ago, Strats said:

I got it started today.  Took a few tries but started and felt like it was ok.  I drove it around the parking lot a couple times and then it died again.  idled it back to my spot.  I was hoping it had an air lock, I don't think so now!  Again, thanks for your help.  What is the part number for the Air Dog and VP44.  I would like to up grade.  It has a Banks intake and a few banks gauges but the previous owner said it was disconnected because of Cummins warranty on a head gasket but I would like to increase the fuel.  I did put a K&N air filter and would be curious what it would take to hook the Banks up again, possibly a larger turbo also.  I'm not sure what performance mods can be done!

You may want to read this about K&N before running one. I use to be a fan but won't use one now.

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html

Your stock filter will flow more air than your engine can ue. But it is up to you if you can afford to rebuild a "dusted" engine.

The wiring for the Banks should still be there to hook it up again.

Bill

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Bill, thank you for adding that to the post. When I saw that I cringed, once I got to a PC I was going to do the same.

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