jleamont Report post Posted March 24, 2016 Let me explain, my hole in the compartment floor for the waste hose connection does not align with the outlet. Since the outlet is within a few inches of the floor I have to use a 45 degree adapter which partially exits the hole in the floor to make a hose connection. It may not sound like a problem but the 45 degree adapter is so large I cannot use my "Critter Guard" system and what exposes me to unwanted critters crawling up the hose. The water bay is made from a thick composite material. I am considering relocating the hole in the floor, with fiberglass mat but I wanted to know if anyone else has this scenario with a Monaco product (or any other for that matter), and if so what did you do? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted March 24, 2016 Have you verified construction of that area-- may be an easy "relocate" or a hard one depending on basement floor structure. If steel beaming, a magnet will quickly tell you if you would be cutting structural members. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
five Report post Posted March 24, 2016 This may be a dumb question, but are you sure the sewer pipe coming out from the tank will not swivel? I thought I had the same problem you do, until I was told that plastic end piece will swivel. It only swivels side to side (side of coach to side of coach) it will not swivel longitudinally (front to back of coach). Once I discovered it would move...it is right over the outlet hole in the floor. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blakeloke Report post Posted March 24, 2016 Hey Joe, Our Windsor would have the same issue. Fortunately, we have a macerator pump that uses a small 1.25" hose. Some folks don't like a macerator because they are slow but we've never had a problem.....except for the time Deb accidently threw a knife down the black tank when she was dumping the dish water (dry camping). I had the dry heaves fixing that problem. Maybe a macerator would be an easier solution? Blake Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nitehawk Report post Posted March 24, 2016 Any possibility of reworking the mounting for the gate valve so your hookup would be where it should be? Longer pipe mounted to the back side of your gate valve. I had to put a longer piece of pipe from our tank to the gate valve in order to reach far enough into our black tank in order to eliminate a leak. Cutting the floor is not the best idea when all it might take is a different pipe on the gate valve. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted March 24, 2016 On the Allegro Bus it swivels 360, I miss that, on this coach, the same as FIVE ! I would go with Brett's idea first and if that don't work. then work on another option. Carl Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted March 24, 2016 Thanks for the ideas, Brett, the entire floor is nothing but a composite material (like thick Tupper Ware) in fact the entire compartment is made from the same, no supports under, I just hate to cut into it, it will always look like it was damaged and repaired. Five, it does swivel up and down, (from straight down to the Floor to pointed at you) not left to right, and its really, really tight in that part of the bay. It is a Y connector, gray 1.5" feeding on the left, Black 3" feeding from the right, if that were designed differently it would align. But the odds of locating a replacement Y that fits the distance between the blade valves and then hit the opening properly I think may be a bit much to ask for. Blake, I thought of that, I am pretty sure I would not like it and its one more thing to service. I love how fast empty of the tanks now, nothing has the ability to sit and accumulate, pull the valve and it roars out rather fast. I may have to give that some more thought. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted March 24, 2016 Joe, can you take a picture of the valtera valve, showing how it is attached to the waste tanks and e-mail to me. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
abyrd Report post Posted March 24, 2016 I would enlarge the existing hole and install a larger marine type deck plate that will allow you to secure the compartment when the hose removed. Sever types of deck plates are available in round and square configurations. Jim Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted March 24, 2016 Kay, will do. when I get home I will photo it and email it to you. Jim, I was actually thinking of moving the existing marine deck plate over a few inches and filling the portion of the old hole with fiberglass matting and resin. This is the one currently used, screw in type deck plate in the hole; http://www.jmsonline.net/attwood-white-6in-deck-plate-att-127921.htm?utm_source=google_shopping&gclid=CJyO-JyL2ssCFUIfhgodyC8Hrg Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huffypuff Report post Posted March 24, 2016 Joe on my HR it don't appear to line up until you swivel it up or down. I take the cap off then push the big tee connector down to line up with the hole, hose goes right through. When I disconnect I pull up on the big tee connector and screw in the floor cap. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted March 24, 2016 Another option would be to cut the hole in the existing floor where you want it and then use a larger sheet of rigid plastic or lexan, etc both above and below the "floor" covering the whole area (like 2-3" larger than all directions than both old and new holes) to squeeze the floor section. Just through bolt the plastic or lexan using a good marine sealant. Cut the proper hole in the plastic or lexan to install the deck plate in the proper location. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted March 25, 2016 Photos attached here; there are a few, only one is attached on the link below. http://community.fmca.com/gallery/image/4101-img-2242/ I am thinking of going with Brett's idea and overlay the floor in the wet bay and put the exit hole where it belongs. Brett, any recommendations of a good marine sealant? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted March 25, 2016 Sikaflex 221 would be my first choice as both good adhesion and good sealing properties. But second would be a good polysulfide. Part of the answer depends on what material you are using. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted March 25, 2016 Joe, Sikaflex is a very good sealant. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted March 25, 2016 Any idea what that current box is made from? I would love to locate that product, its very durable. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted March 25, 2016 Probably HDPE, high density polyethylene. Just type in hdpe on ebay search line. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted March 25, 2016 Just a thought could you use one of those clear connectors? I have seen them with a 45 degree and one with just a slight dog leg. This would give you a clear place to watch when you dump and line you up with the hole and less work. OK I went back and looked at the pictures closer and that won't work. So patching looks like a good option. One suggestion is to make your repair big enough you can cut the hole for the "dec plate" without getting into the repair of the old hole. Easier to do than explain. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted March 25, 2016 Kay, it looks like a match or close enough to run with it anyway. I will measure it up and see how thick it needs to be and order it up. As they say back to the drawing board. Thank you everyone! Makes you wonder, how many coaches were made like this bad run of product? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wayne77590 Report post Posted March 25, 2016 They make 8 and 10 inch deck plates. Would enlarging to one of those sizes solve the problem? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted March 25, 2016 Wayne, I thought about that, my concern is the RV Critterguard that goes around the hose is not made above 7". But you are correct, a 8-10" opening could very well solve my problem. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wayne77590 Report post Posted March 25, 2016 Regarding the critter guard, I'm not familiar with it. However, just thinking it is a device that fits around the hose to keep critters from coming up when you are camping and an idea pops in. What is the requirement of a critter guard? Could it be a piece of heavy rubber that is placed around the hose covering the hole? What about a piece of thin sheet metal that has a hole just the size of the hole, slit to the middle of the hole and slipped around the hose. Just thinking out loud. (One of my biggest problems.) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dkreuzen Report post Posted March 25, 2016 Not only was my 6" deck plate misaligned but it was too small for my hose connection as it was right in the hole. I installed a 8" deck plate aligned to the exit of the "T" and all is perfect now. I also used a deck plate with a latch as the threaded style was always a problem to get started. As for the Critterguard I would just make one to fit as it would be much easier than moving the deck plate over. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted March 25, 2016 Wayne, This is a real tough question: "What is the requirements of a critter guard"? Well, Wayne, think it's sole function, is to keep critters out off coach ! Eeh? Carl Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wayne77590 Report post Posted March 25, 2016 Well Carl, most of the Texas critters are to big to crawl into the hole anyhow. But that aside, how did you like my suggestions. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
