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Deborahheinz

Workhorse Hub Assembly

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I have a 2005 Fleetwood Southwind on a Workhorse chassis. I got less than 10 miles from home yesterday and the ABS light comes on. I turned around and limped slowly home. In the driveway I see hub fluid all over left front tire.  My maintenance schedule is rigorous and proactive. It appears the brake caliper hung up and fried everything. The Work Horse caliper recall was completed March 2011 and only has 5,000 miles on it. Why would this happen?

But more importantly where can you find the hub assembly?  I am told they are not made any more and they are unavailable. I find that hard to believe with the thousands of these chassis on the road.

Thanks for any insight members can offer. 

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Debora, The parts will be available in the aftermarket outlets. There are just to many delivery trucks built on the Workhorse chassis for them to disappear! I will look in my files and see what information I have.

OK. I do have the information. Sent you a Privet Message !

Regarding the problem with the brakes- An item call the caliper pin can seize up and the brakes do not release after they have been applied. The main reason this problem happens is - not enough or the wrong kind of grease was used in most cases. The killer is, when the coaches just set for long periods of time things tend to rust up. causing the issue also.

Rich.

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1 hour ago, deborahheinz said:

I have a 2005 Fleetwood Southwind on a Work Horse chassis. I got less than 10 miles from home yesterday and the ABS light comes on. I turned around and limped slowly home. In the driveway I see hub fluid all over left front tire.  My maintence schedule is rigorous and proactive. It appears the brake caliper hung up and fried everything. The Work Horse caliper recall was completed March 2011 and only has 5,000 miles on it. Why would this happen? But more importantly where can you find the hub assembly?  I am told they are not made any more and they are unavailable. I find that hard to believe with the thousands of these chassis on the road. Thanks for any insight members can offer. 

I doubt the hub is bad. you can get most everything to rebuild it hear.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/workhorse?a=Referer+www.google.com+URL+%2Fen%2Fcatalog%2Fworkhorse

Bill

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Yesterday we got the hubs lubed and the rotors turned, installed new calipers and bled the brake lines. The caliper on the left front tire froze up immediately. Where do we look next?  New brake line?  Still looking and haven't been able to locate one. Or the abs modulator?  Any insight is appreciated. Thank you!

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Debora, Jack it up, place a safety stand under it, have someone step on the brake and release it, if it holds that wheel locked, open the left caliper bleeder, if the brakes release it's the line holding fluid in the caliper. if it still holds after you open the bleeder you have a defective caliper. keep rag down there and protect your eyes as fluid might come squirting out. 

Due to the age of the unit I would replace the rubber hoses anyway, on an vehicle that large they take a beating with heat.

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Debora, The problem point causing the caliper to stay engaged is most likely the Rubber flex line(s), like Joe mentioned. They do deteriorate over time, add heat and they will fail.

The interior portion of the hoses brakes down and blocks the fluid path, when you apply the brakes the master cylinder output pressure is much higher an can enter the caliper, but needs a free flowing path to release the caliper.

You did not mention the presents of an ABS fault light. So the ABS sensor should not be the issue, the ABS valve body is plumbed with steel lines the go to the attachment point of the flex lines going to the calipers. 

Regarding the brake flex line replacement - Look at one or more of the big players in replacement parts - NAPA, O'reill'y, AC Delco or similar outlets. 

Rich.

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A friend had a Southwind several years ago that did exactly the same way, when he finally replaced the hoses, the problem ceased.

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Years ago I had a pinched steel brake line smashed between the frame and cross member done at the factory.  It was on drum brakes but the brakes would come on but slowly retract.  I only found it after the coach was 3 years old.  Replace the tubing and it worked perfect.

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Thanks to everyone in the FMCA community for all of the guidance and education provided on this subject. Now that I am back on the road I purchased an infrared thermometer to track wheel temps. The ambient temp in the area is still in the mid 90's. What is a reasonable operating hub temperature?  I am not sure what is considered a problem temp. Of course the sunny side of the vehicle always registers hotter. Thanks in advance. 

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I do not have a definitive "this temperature is OK, this one too hot. 

Much more telling is to compare hub temperatures, taking into account things like sun on one side.  If the absence of outside influences hub temperatures should be the same side to side. 

After checking them a time or two, you will know immediately if one is out of spec. 

BTW, many of us just walk around and lightly place our hands on the hub every time we stop for exactly the same reason.

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Many thanks, I am sure you can tell I am nervous about this and need to get my confidence restored. I love my motorhome and I am not ready to hang up the keys, but it is nerve racking when you have a major break down while traveling alone. 

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I purchased an Infer Red Temperature Gun that I keep at the front door. When ever we stop, I do a walk around and check each hub and tire. If all are in the same range then I feel OK. I do this on both the coach and the toad. At the same time I will check the tow bar, had a problem once and don't want to have one again.

Herman  

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Debora, 

Your welcome. However as Brett said there are several factors that come in to play. Ambient temperature which side is exposed to the sun, and so on. If tires on the same side are close to the same temperature you should be OK.  On the inside dual the temperature might be slightly higher just because of less sir flow. That is Ok. 

So you should be OK just keep your cool. :D

Herman 

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Debora, I do not check mine with a thermometer, I wave my hand near the hubs, and sniff. If it smells hot, similar to what you experienced when the initial breakdown occurred then I would get down and look under, if you see smoke, then use the thermometer and defiantly look.

 For a base line try the left from right after a drive, they should be close to the same temperatures. If one is significantly higher, dig deeper. check it often until you feel comfortable and gain a base line.

It would be hard for someone to tell you a temp range, too many variables i.e. brake system design, tire pressures, weight variation in each coach. 

Glad you are all fixed up!

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2 hours ago, deborahheinz said:

Thank you to everyone!  Going on a real trip next week and remain nervous. 

That is understandable. Once you get some miles and experience under your belt you will be able to relax. I had a bad air hose and after it was fixed it took several days travel before I felt comfortable again.

Bill

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