bikeryder Report post Posted October 9, 2016 For the first time ever my slideouts will not close on my 2003 Monaco Cayman 36PBD. They both open as normal but will not close. A friend showed me how to manually close them using a 12 volt power supply at the motor on the kitchen slide. He simply disconnected the wire harness plug on slide motor, then connected his 12 volt power supply directly to the motor wire leads, reversing the colored wires, black to red ~ red to black, and immediately the kitchen slide closed as normal. We tried figuring where the problem might be, unfortunately we are both clueless. I thought it might be the master switch panel, but it is strange that both slides operate normally to open (separate toggle switches). If anyone out there can point me to where I should be looking I would be most grateful. Eddie Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hermanmullins Report post Posted October 9, 2016 Eddie, By some chance did you have a bay door open. Monaco has an over ride switch that will not let a slide operate if the door under it is open. Don't ask me how I know this. Herman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bikeryder Report post Posted October 9, 2016 Hi Herman, No my bay doors were closed up until we opened them to gain access to the slide motor for the purpose of manually closing them with the 12 volt power supply. I tell you, this one is baffling me for sure. Eddie Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wayne77590 Report post Posted October 11, 2016 Separate switches? I'd start at the switch checking to make sure the wiring is intact. Also short across the switch and if the slide operates the switch may be bad. Check for voltage at the motor with someone operating the switch. No voltage may be a broken or corroded wire. Does your slide operate with the engine running? Start the engine and see if the slide works. Could be a weak battery. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted October 13, 2016 Bikeryder, our coach it's always one of two things, either I left the ignition on for the dock lighting or something fell against a bay door, if I open the bay doors, push the junk back and close them they work again. A simple test open each bay and bypass one switch at a time. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hermanmullins Report post Posted October 13, 2016 Bikeryder, I had an issue with our slide one time. Talked with the tech at HWH and he guided me to the valve body of the unit. He told me which valve worked the front slide. At that time the front slide would go out but would not retract. (turned out to be wiring issue). He instructed me to unscrew the bypass screw. I did and the slide came in. He then told me to close it to have the slide would go out the next time. What started the problem was the hatch switch I mentioned before. When I was checking everything I had removed the toggle switch. I had screwed up the connections when I reassembled the switch. Corrected the wiring and I was amassed, the slide went out and it went in and I didn't have to crawl under the front of the coach to open and close the valve. Good luck with your issue, Herman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted October 13, 2016 Herman. That is a real good reason to use tape and mark the wires as you remove them, or now with smart phones, take a close up photo! My batteries are all tagd by the factory, but when the nice young man came to replace my 8 batteries, he took several photos and by using them, had no problems in the re connect...lesson learned. If in doubt use the iPhone. Slide problem or Jacks, seems to always be a switch issue, low batteries or fluid issue! That's been my experience... Having a air leveling issue now, no leak, it's out off zero, so it shows that I have a Twist...on a level cement floor! Tech will take care of it while I'm hitting a small ball today! Anger management.. Carl Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted October 13, 2016 Is your slide switch a two way (double pole/double throw) toggle? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bikeryder Report post Posted October 13, 2016 Sorry for delay in responding... I've been tied up, working extra long hours lately. Wayne, Yes separate switches. The pic I've uploaded is not from my coach ( I didn't have a pic of my control panel handy), this is from a 2005 Cayman but its very similar to mine. The lower right hand corner has the two separate switches that control both my kitchen and bedroom slides. I'll see about shorting across the switch this weekend. I'm a novice when it comes to electrical. What puzzles me is my two slides have separate control switches, yet both have the same problem (won't go in). What are the odds both panel toggle switches are bad? Kaypsmith, Sadly I'm not sure what type of toggle switch I have at this time. But I will look into this over the weekend. My batteries are well charged as I had two solar panels installed, one for the coach four batteries and one for the two engine batteries. Thanks to all who have contributed feedback to my current slide issue. Fingers crossed for good luck... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted October 13, 2016 The two black switches to the right bottom beside the red switch and red pilot appear to be dp/dt, if you can get to the back of them, it is common for two wires to be connected from the opposite end in an X pattern. It seems unlikely that two would have gone bad at the same time, but stranger things have happened. The reason for the X configuration is simply to reverse positive and negative to change direction of a DC motor, and if one has been burned into or may have lost connection for any reason, your description will happen. If the X is not there and only four or six wires directly connected, then the control board would be my next suspect. I would also look for a relay which may have gone bad. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hermanmullins Report post Posted October 13, 2016 Most slide switches are double pole, double throw, momentary. They must be held in while moving the slides in or out. But I am sure you know that. Hope you get your issue solved soon. When you do it may be something simple and hopefully inexpensive. Herman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bikeryder Report post Posted October 13, 2016 kaypsmith, Thank you so much for your input, I truly appreciate your contribution. I've been searching for wiring diagrams, 2003 Monaco Cayman 36PDB, with no luck whatsoever. Can anyone suggest a retail source/outlet? I am willing to purchase $$. Thanks, Eddie Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted October 13, 2016 Eddie. Here's a thought. When I got back to my coach this afternoon, it was in the paint bay as I was told when I left, it would be...the tech informed me that they could not get my drivers side slide in (I have 4), batteries, wiring, switches, fluid, everything checked out. Then one remembered about re setting zero on my leveling system...they did and slide came in/out/in. Point is, is your coach level? Carl Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bikeryder Report post Posted October 14, 2016 Carl, Yes my coach is fairly level. The slideout control switches work flawlessly when opening both kitchen and bedroom slidesouts. It is only when trying to close my slides do I encounter the problem. I'm finding this to be a wee bit frustrating. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted October 14, 2016 Mine went out fine, I have been here for body work since the 3rd. It was the problem, Just a little torque on the body is all it takes. As I said, just a thought. Carl Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted October 14, 2016 The other thing does your coach know it is level? In Carl's case the adjustment was off on the auto level so the coach thought it was but it was torqued a little. We had someone at 6 State who was having a problem with his auto level. The passenger side was about 3 in higher and it said it was level. Try making sure it is level and that will eliminate one possible problem. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bikeryder Report post Posted October 24, 2016 Still trying to trouble shoot my problem. I'll upload a few pics of the fuse panel and such located in the cargo bay under the drivers seat. On the large circuit board there are 2 grey colored (modules / relays) that are either soldered onto the board or they plug onto the board, not sure. Additionally on the right hand side of cargo bay bolted to wall, there appears to be what I would refer to as a relay, with 1 relay draped over the wiring harness (not bolted to wall). Can someone help shed some light on what is pictured here? Thanks in advance. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bikeryder Report post Posted October 24, 2016 Oh, I thought I'd upload the only two relevant wiring diagrams pertaining to my Monaco Cayman slides that I could locate. Is it possible the slide control board is hiding behind my slide out toggle switch panel? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted November 4, 2016 Bikerider, The picture of the item you are holding is a control relay, generally in the 20 amp range as are the other external relays. The 2 relays in the larger box are in the 20 to 40 amp range. The fat square box under the big one is a control module and the thinner box mounted on the wall is often a resister terminator and or diode unit. The drawing of the control circuit, the one with the fewest lines is the slide motor(s) control circuit wiring. The drawing shows 2 fuses. A 5 amp fuse from the ignition, that locks out the slides from moving when the coach is running and the other is a 25 amp fuse that powers the motor circuits. Relay 1 is for one slide and relay 2 is for the other slide. So the primary relay that connects power to either # 1 or #2 is not closing or the fuse (25 amp) is bad; or it could be a bad cable supplying power to the board that has a problem. Hope this helps ! Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted November 4, 2016 Bikerider, The picture of the item you are holding is a control relay, generally in the 20 amp range as are the other external relays. The 2 relays in the larger box are in the 20 to 40 amp range. The fat square box under the big one is a control module and the thinner box mounted on the wall is often a resister terminator and or diode unit. The drawing of the control circuit, the one with the fewest lines is the slide motor(s) control circuit wiring. The drawing shows 2 fuses. A 5 amp fuse from the ignition, that locks out the slides from moving when the coach is running and the other is a 25 amp fuse that powers the motor circuits. Relay 1 is for one slide and relay 2 is for the other slide. So the primary relay that connects power to either # 1 or #2 is not closing or the fuse (25 amp) is bad; or it could be a bad cable supplying power to the board that has a problem. Hope this helps ! Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bikeryder Report post Posted November 4, 2016 I finally was able to get a mobile RV technician to checkout my problem. After much confusion due to Monaco's poor wiring schematics (wire colors on diagrams do not match what Monaco used in their wiring loom), it was determined the most probable cause is either bad soldering on the control board or bad diode. Each relay was removed and tested, and each relay was verified to be in good operational condition. So now I've ordered a new slideouts control board complete with all new relays. Cost with shipping about $125. Board should arrive in a few days. Technician was able to close my slideouts by unhooking the wiring harness and applying 12 volts DC directly to the wires connected to the slide motors. I located the Slideouts Control Board only after receiving the part diagram from a Monaco parts supplier. Prior to receiving the control board image I had no idea what it looked like. Thanks to all who took the time to respond, it is much appreciated. Eddie Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted November 4, 2016 Eddie, Sounds like you have made some good progress! Glad you found a tech that could add power to the proper point and retract the slides. A good little trick to know should the same issue popup in the future. Where is the board in the picture located ? It sure looks like one would expect when looking at the wiring diagram for a 2 slide control module. Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted November 4, 2016 I looked at both the picture above and the one from the web...the web one shows the 5 amp, where the 25 amp is above, which one is correct? Carl Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted November 5, 2016 18 hours ago, manholt said: I looked at both the picture above and the one from the web...the web one shows the 5 amp, where the 25 amp is above, which one is correct? Carl Carl, I think they will be labeled and there is a good chance the 25 amp fuse will be bigger then the 5 amp size wise also. Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted November 5, 2016 18 hours ago, manholt said: I looked at both the picture above and the one from the web...the web one shows the 5 amp, where the 25 amp is above, which one is correct? Carl Carl, I think they will be labeled and there is a good chance the 25 amp fuse will be bigger then the 5 amp size wise also. Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
