urbanhermit

I'm on pooobear's side on principle, but the hard truth is that the provider is a for-profit company, in business for the sole purpose of making money. The first response by any insurance company of any sort (yes, I know, but it's semantics --very broad definition in use) is "do we have to pay this" at best and "how can we get out of paying this?" at the worst. Capitalism is the way to go, but it's a dog-eat-dog system.

Ditto. I just posted a bad one, and am heartened to read this. I just fired the carrier involved in that incident following service nearly as bad on the second consecutive event and signed on with FMCA. I have my fingers crossed. I'll remember F433921's good experience with AAA.

This is a bit off-topic but illuminates a pitfall of roadside assistance response: The need for two tow trucks can be a problem. The alternator went out on my SUV while I was towing a trailer with a motorcycle on it. This situation could be duplicated by a pickup and a bumper pull. We didn't quite get home before the battery went out. We lacked about 50 miles. The contract I had then -- and no longer do -- covered any non-commercial vehicle I drove or in which I was a passenger. No problem, right? Except that after hours of waiting for the roadside assistance people to find a service provider, a flatbed was sent that had no trailer hitch. They could load the SUV but could not carry or tow the trailer. We were on an Interstate. It was dark by this time. I dared not leave the trailer and motorcycle beside the road. They wouldn't have stayed there 30 minutes. So my wife rode home in the wrecker and I stayed with the trailer/motorcycle for more hours while the roadside assistance people and the servivce provider argued about a second tow truck and then both gave up without notifying either me or my wife. This little story is about situations with traielrs that would require two tow trucks, so I won't focus on the human failures that kept two very senior citizens beside an interstate from mid-afternoon until midnight.

I'm not mollified in the least. When someone of the stature and professionalism of the Empire tech tells me this company is like a weave of all the worst policies of all the other companies and is the worst by far that he's seen in seven years of working with ESC companies, I consider my opinion of NorthStar and Revolos justified neven without citing detais. And I do know how to read a contract, but ifcontracts made cut-and-dried situations there wouldn't be the need for contract lawyers.

Never even consider Northstar by Revolos. I use Empire Truck Sales, an extremely professional, highly ethical multistate Freightliner and Cummins dealership/repair facility for chassis issues. Their employee who interacts with extended warranty companies said treatment of him while he was seeking to process a claim for replacing a part specifically stated in their contract as covered -- front air bag switch -- has been "mind boggling." His term. I wish there was a way to convey his speech in describing their verbal response. He said they are the worst he has experienced -- by far -- in his seven years of functioning in his present capacity. He said, his words, "It's like taking the worst of everything from all the companies and weaving them together as a way of doing business." He said, additionally, that they voluntarily told him there were a lot of converages in the contract for which they will not pay diagnostic charges (nothing in the contract about that) and that they don't pay for shiping, sales tax, shop supplies, or full labor rates. They expect repair facilities to get approval before beginning the repair, a ploy begging for violation as waiting for them would be tatamount to putting a coach on blocks and forgetting about it. Finally, the Emprire employee said, they told him it would be thirty days before they'd act on the piddly reimbursement. He and I both suspect focused petty vindictiveness. This is only the latest struggle with them. I've had Empire file for two other repairs and have had difficulty with them on both, the second more than the first but neither at this level. This time it was obvious they tried to escape payment by ignoring repeated attempts, over time, to file the claim. Empire told me that in the process this time he was told three times the people whom he'd talked to the day beore didn't work there. They whittled an $841 repair cost down to $598 covered, so that after my $500 deductable (that part, at least, is legitimate), they're going to send me $98. After an interlude of a month. My mistake was ignoring the aphorism "You get what you pay for" and relying on a printed document that's worth no more than the nonexistent ethics of the company.

Thanks for pointing that out. Definitely labeled as 8kW, definitely only one breaker, single type, labeled for 35 amps, unless Onan has hidden a second (double pole?) breaker somewere. I'm now assuming that what appears to be a single-pole breaker is a double-pole. However things are configured, everything is still working, the batteries were holding a charge normally the last time I was at the coach, and I'm happy again .

Dash consumes more fuel? That surprises me. At equal fuel consumtion with my genset consuming 1 gph, my rig would have to lose from 7.5 mpg to 6.5 mpg at 55 mph average -- can it be that much, or is my math reasoning wrong?

From some responses, I think i may not have been clear in my inquiry. The resolution of the problem was bringing my house batteries up from discharged. Evlidently there is a 12-volt control circuit or two involved with the operation of the electrical half of the genset, powered by -- strangely to me --- the house batteries. Once recharged, 120V AC flowed normally from the generator.

As soon as I get towed -- see my 2nd response to cpat -- I'm gonna call these people. Thanks, manholdt.

After my very recent (only been a member of Roadside Rescue since 6/1/2021) bad experience that I blame on the towing commpay RR engaged, or tried to engage, things got worse, though cpat still has the crown. Yestereday brought my Monaco Cayman 36 from storage to my house to clean out the battery bay. All hunkydory. When I started itto return it to the storage lot, everyting came up except the transmission control panel. Nothing. Dead as if the ignition was off. Wiggling the key caused occasional brief flashies of light, even once or twice for a split second illuminating the entire N. Assumed the problem was a worn ignition switch. Changed that out; no change at the transmission controls. Around 1800 to 1900 CDST I called Roadside Rescue. Was very clear that I had an appointment at 0700 to 0730 this morning to be first in line -- very important because we had a five-day trip set up for a Monday departure (yesterday was Friday, today Saturday; service facility works 7 days). At 0530 this morning I found out that RR had not even place a tow truck call. We've lost our place in line and lost our trip. Way to go, Roadside Rescue. Count on my canelling my membersship as soon as the tow is made, whenever that is.

Well familiar with how it works; my problem was how it wasn't working. But house batteries charged and are holding a charge despite being so low (probably with shortened life); generator is producing current normally. I need to determine if it was a physical fault or operator idiocy that caused the batteries to discharge but I'm otherwise again ready to terrorize the highways.

There's hope. I'm going to go find the second breaker. It's not adjacent to the first as far as I know. Rats. One breaker, 35A 120 AC UPDATE: After charging several hours on house current-powered battery chargers, the house batteries are showing (an unstabalized) 11.44 volts -- and the generator is now putting out cuirent. I don't get it. House batteries taking out the generator ? I'll charge for another 11 hours@ +/- 5 amps and see what's what after that. Not expecting the batteries to old a good charge.

Discovered all four new 6-volt deep cycle house batteries down to 1.1 volts; then discovered the generator is not putting out current -- nothing coming into the switch., Breaker was not/does not trip. Generator seems to go under and come out of load. Wondering if there could be some 12V control circuit from house batteries associated with the genset. I'm now charging -- or tryng to charge -- the batteries on 120v house current. We'll see how that goes through the night. I have no way of plugging into shore power. My primary interest is what might be causing the generator to fail to produce current. What discharged the batteries os of secondary concern. Wondering if some wonky short in the generator could be draining the batteries through the charger, or if there could be some 12V control circuit associated with the genset that wouldn't work from severely discharged batteries. The generator is an 8kW Onan in a 2006 Monaco Cayman 36. The genarator has only about 1450 hours. The question about a 12v control circuit is grasping at a straw, I know. Only desperation prompts it.

Then I would presume, if what Empire and I were both told during at least three contacts about not having any tech information for 2002-2006 is correct, that the manuals, etc. disappeared when ASV bought Monaco. I accept the possibiity that Empire and I were both handled a shovel full of male gender bovine fodder byproduct. (Made the assumptoin about Holiday Rambler because the coachs are so obviously the same basic design and construction as Monacos, at least at the Monaco Cayman level.) Yeah, late to the party again. My CRS condition keeps me from tacking threads effectively.

🥵 As I said, late to the party . . . I wan't here last year, either.

Put a set of Pirelli's on a 1969 Citroen ID19. As I recall they weren't as grippy as I expected. They were advertising themselves as "the rain tire" in those days., I may have expected too much in my callow youth.

I just replaced mine somewhere in their 7th year because I was warned by two credible sources I was at increasing risk of belt separation due to age despite having good tread and sidewalls free of cracks. Two benefits worth the price: Confidence, and a much, much better ride. (I'm deep south -- upper Gulf Coast.)

I've got TSTs. Their directions make suggestions about high and low alarms in terms of vairation from the target cold pressure.

Very happy with the glass beaded Hankooks I just put on The Cayman 36. Obviously can't speak to longevity, though they'll probably "expire" on time rather than tread, but the coach rides like a different beast from the one that rolled on Goodyears.

Realize I'm late to the party, but after reading thsi thread I went looking and found this, which may be useful: https://rvheadlights.com/

Thank you for the links. For me, the $729 cost of the Generic switch is "excuse," although it seems to be the cat's meow and the page states they will get it pre-approved by the power company before shipping. I'll look into the $63 one. 30 amps is too light for lights, refrigerator, and AC, but AC, even in hot, humid post-hurricane weather, is optional.

Condone it or not, I've been doing it for 20 years; it's 100% safe; and the power company hasn't complained once.

I determined that the flasher unit is upstream of the switch and thus when current flows it's already intermittant coming in to the switch -- can't use the turn signal switch to control the added lights. My solution was to buy a Dremel and, puckered very tightly, to cut into the carbon fiber panel on the side console and install a marine on-off-on switch, wire its hot to the hot lead of an unused electric brake harness under the dash, and run separate hots through the firewall to the two lights. The switch is only inches from the turn signal stalk and can be used by touch. I used Posi-Taps to T into the hot and a ground and recommend them highly. (And yes, Manholt, I did go back and add an in-line fuse.)

The house end of a temporary generator connection: Living on the Gulf Coast, extended power outages are not uncommon. We've had a portable generator since Hurricane Ivan in 2004. Although it is technically illegal, I pull the meter and connect the two 120V leads from the 240-volt generator tap to the bottom two brass tines behind the meter and the neutral to the ground cable (the bare stranded aluminum one), thus guaranteeing that I don't feed power back into the utility's lines and fry a lineman. For this I cut the female receptacle off a marine shore power cable, separated the three wires, and attached the jumper cable-type clamps to the hots and the neutral. I also run a bare copper ground from the frame of the generator to the house's ground wire. When the power comes back on I notify the utility that I have pulled the meter and then reinstalled it, and request that they install a new seal. So far they've been grateful. The coach end of a coach generator-house connection: I can't get my coach anywhere near our meter panel, have not considered doing this with the coach generator, and therefore can't add to the discussion about how to tap into the coach generator's output and run power to the house panel.

My engine coolant temp gauge died. A very major multi-state, extremely professional Freightliner dealer/heavy truck service center traced the problem to somewhere in a centralized electrical harness and coujld go no farther, and thus they and we found out REV is of no technical help at all, for any problem, with 2002-2006 Monacos. (All or most chassis parts are available.) The solution in my case was the construction of a wholly separate temp gauge sytem including a separate gauge added to the dashboard. Within reasonable distance from my location, Pensacola, FL, the facility i use is the only major serice center for diesel RVs between Mobile, AL, and (possibly) Tallahassee, FL. The situation with REV and the Monacos may not be a reason not to buy one, but a buyer should be aware of it.