urbanhermit

Thankee. I got hot and bothered with their Berkshire floorplan, didn't know anything at all about the quality/refinement level, then decided it would cost me too much to make the change. We're reasonably happy with Mother Superior, our 06 Cayman 36. Going to roll the dice on the total lack of technical support from REV.

When did BH take over Georgetown, please?

For general inforamtion re loose wood screws: the toothpick trick. Insert a round toothpick into the hole, break it off flush, and reinstall the screw. Except with very large screws, one toothpick will do the trick. Have no idea if this will apply to the sagging cabinet, with which significant weight and straight-out pull is involved, but works great for cabinet doors, etc.

More than I knew -- thanks. We like our Cayman 36, but it's a 2006 and I'm told (and experiencing) that from 2002 to 2006 support for them disappeared when massive amounts of documentation got lost in a transfer of ownership. Our source told us 2008 to 2010 is the sweet spot, before DEF came along. We're having resource problems that I expecct will get worse as time goes by. At present we have a new coolant temperature gauge and a new sender (from two different events) and the gauge still doesn't work. Our highly capable heavy truck and diesel RV shop can't get wiring information out of REV. I'm probably going to have to mount a Joe Mudflaps underdash temp gauge and find someone to run a whole new wire from sender to gauge. So we're considering alternatives to keeping the Cayman -- alternatives that we entry level folk can afford. The one that caught our eye is a 37 if memory serves.

Beginning to consider a 2009 Expedition. Know nothing of Fleetwood quality. Experienced Itasca -- excellent-- and Monaco -- okay, but an orphan -- and have read owner reviews of various Flleetwood models including Expedition ranging from worst RV on the planet to best RV on the planet. What say ye?

My man ! (77 in June)

Watched the video. Impressive . . . and left me with an uneasy feeling . . .

Thanks to all who responded with suggestions. It turned out to be a loose nut on a wire terminal on a solenoid. Whew! Enabled me to sell the coach two days later, 12 hours after I posted it on craigslist. Bittersweet -- I liked the interior layout and atmosphere better than the bigger, newer, Monaco Cayman we still have and will keep. BTW, the problem was with a Itasca Sunflyer 34 with the Ford F53 chassis.

"One thing he always recommends about exiting out that window is to grab the blankets off the bed and put them over the bottom window sill to make it easier on you as you exit." -- excellent common-sense action that probably hasn't occurred to most of us.

Water damage or manufacturing fault with the glue application. Another thought: Since the coach is so sparkly clean, could it have suffered from long-tern interior humidity, molded up, caused the headliner to sag, and then been aggressively and professionally cleaned, polished, and sanitized? There are moisture meters that use a couple of prongs poked into a surface to measure conductivity between them and leak detectors that detect thermal variations. If leakage is a concern, there are leak detection contractors who can determine wet/dry in a few minutes.

1999 Itasca Sunflyer 34: between visits to the coach slides and jacks became inoperative, as though they aren't there. Ground switch on the parking brake pedal works No continuity from the end of it's ground wire to known ground. A 20-amp push breaker labeled for slides and fog lights was tripped. When reset the fog lights worked but the slides did not. Later found the jacks inoperative. On the jack control panel the On and Brake Off warning lights come on when the On button is pressed but go out immediately when pressure is released. Besides a fault on that panel would not affect the slides. Batteries are fully charged, ignition switch in correct position. Question: is there a single relay for both slides and jacks? Could be -- they aren't used simultaneously. I realize how narrowly focused this issue is -- but has anyone had a parallel problem and found the solution? .

27 states -- about half.

Reading this, I realize I need and EMS. Any opinions about best value for a portable without spending half an RV unit? (I'm adapting "RV unit" from my extensive boatyarding experience. A boat unit is $1,000. Not so painful to think of repairs as "two boat units" instead of "another $2,000 overboard." I'm slowly bringing Mother Superior up to snuff, and she's been at Empire Truck Sales (and service) more than she's been in the storage lot.)

I just found this. I also found an article about double towing in North Dakota which allows it but gives specific requirements about brakes and safety chains and distinguishes between fifth wheels and bumper-pulls As I live in FL and probably won't live long enough to get to North Dakota, I didn't copy the link. https://news.pickuptrucks.com/2009/02/state-laws-can-pull-you-in-many-directions-if-you-double-tow.html

That surprises me. Not doubting your word, but I'm sure I read somewhere that the lead had to be fifth wheel. Maybe a state reg?

I like! May pirate the idea. Easy storage while traveling, too. I assume the twist clips are mounted with screws?

I would do the same, and I'm sure all us men would, too. But darned if I didn't think, for a split second, as I was reading, that you were going to say "so my butt could land on something soft." (Crap-- appear I stiff haven't got this posting stuff down pat)

Very handsome ! The greenery looks like rainy country. Noticed your awning is level. You might want to set one end a couple inches lower to drain off water. Awnings can trap several hundred pounds of water. The manual for mine warns of 500 to 1000 lbs (!). Seems hysterical to me, but it makes the point.

For a couple years I owned a 1968 Citroen ID19, their basic, garden-variety sedan. Support in the US was almost nonexistent even then, in the early 1970s. I shudder to think about trying to maintain one of those creatures outside of Europe.

You're right on the year. Can't attest to the model, but it was for sure a sedan.

I've got a Swivelwheel lift. I think balance would be a disabling factor on my rig, as the sides of the tire rail rise a couple inches above the for tie-down points and the grill would have to tip forward or back even if half of it would come down on the two tie-down arms while leaving the strap hook holes exposed. You might need to have a plate of some kind welded up that would slot into the tire rail and secure at the four tie-down points. Expensive, but in for a penny, in for a pound. (I don't think it's legal to pull a trailer behind a trailer unless the front trailer is a gooseneck/fifth wheel type, but don't assume I'm right. According to the Executive Department, I rarely am.)

Huh? I better reread the fine print.

My wife's WPA-built charter school has something like the recommended Kidde fire escape ladders in very classroom. The hook mechanism looks unwieldy for an RV and an 18" window but if there's not a different brand with more compact hooks, I think that's the way to go. Or keep a powerful chop saw in the bedroom. Our escape window is on the driver's side. I've wondered how we get out if we roll over on that side and our door, which is heavy, becomes a vertical hatch eight feet off the ground and eight feet above what we're standing on. Maybe we climb up the front seats. Maybe if we do roll over that way we'll be lucky enough that the windshield will pop out. At least with a diesel pusher we don't have to worry about a gasoline fire at a front engine. Anybody ever hear of a fire starting from the electrical half of a generator?

Thanks to all responders.