chucknewman

Steve, make sure it is a non-ground antenna you get. Some RV manufacturers put a standard automotive antenna on a fiberglass body. That doesn't work well since it needs to be mounted on a metal frame. Replacement tips for these antennas won't work any better than the original it replaced -- on non-metal ground planes. As Jon recommended, an antenna for boats, motorcycles, or otherwise stated as no ground antenna are designed to work on non-metal vehicles. Like most RV's. Note the base attachment photo in the link. A non-grounded antenna for non-metal applications has a different base than the antennas in most stores (except marine stores) due to the different grounding issues. The "no ground" antennas for boats, RV's, etc. actually do have a derived ground in a set of coils designed as part of the antenna. The theory is beyond this discussion, but it works very well. FYI, do not put a "no ground" antenna on a metal surface. It will actually reduce it's efficiency. All the above is valid for CB antennas also. Most CB antenna manufacturers offer both a grounded and non-grounded CB antenna.

Ron, "It originally looked like you are getting some kind of base service plan with your membership, but could upgrade to Gold or Platinum with an extra fee." That is exactly the case. They offer three tiers of service as does AAA and most other plans. That said, I don't know if you can upgrade/downgrade during the course of the 12 month contract, but we have both upgraded to Platinum and downgraded to Gold during our renewals. I had heard nothing but good from posters about CoachNet prior to our joining a few years ago. We've used them only once for a lockout situation, but the telephone service from CN and the service from the locksmith were excellent. In 15 years with Good Sam ERS I needed them twice with a brand new DP coach. Dealing with Good Sam was argue, argue, and more baloney. They would not listen and sent no fewer than three tow trucks until they finally got one of the size I told them repeatedly they would need. A complete fiasco.

Mike, "I was thinking this was our first trip with the Toad" Does this also mean the towing circuit and/or receptacle was installed since the last trip? Disconnect the tow and take the coach for a drive. If CC works you have a wiring issue with the toad. If CC does not work without the tow, you may have a blown fuse as mentioned. But keep in mind fuses don't blow without a reason. It indicates a wiring problem, whether it occurs while towing or not.

Bill, I was typing when you posted, but you have an excellent point. I had exactly that issue with our Safari that came with an old Motosat Executive antenna with an older controller that was not compatible with any of today's equipment.

Hughes Direct Broadcast Satellite operations began in the mid 90's using RCA receivers for several years. This was followed by several other manufacturers over the next few years. For at least five years, maybe more, Directv has not supported any standard definition receiver for new service other than the current non-DVR model D12. You can get them for around $50. on eBay, but you still will have to purchase a new card from Directv. As recommended above, if you are a new customer, call Directv and order new standard definition service. You will have a new antenna, new LNB, and new receiver at no cost that can be later moved to the coach . Don't mention anything to Directv about RVing. If you do, they will tell you the receiver has to be connected to a telephone line all the time, and if not, you must qualify for a FCC waiver for Distant Network Service. Neither is true if you do it as suggested here. And we can help you get that service, but you must you must do certain things first. The point being it is easy to open a can of worms at Directv by saying the wrong things. When you get your new flat screen TV's try them out with your (new) existing standard definition service. Then you can plan on purchasing and installing a new receiver and antenna/controller. That's a separate issue and we can help you with that at the time.

Go to http://www.helminc.com They have manuals for all American and most foreign vehicles -- operation, maintenance, parts, service bulletins, etc. I got a P30 manual from them in the early 90's, and many manuals for other vehicles since then. Be aware that some of the older manuals may be on CD only rather than print. This manual covers the chassis/engine/powertrain only. The manuals for operating the coach's systems is supplied by the RV manufacturer. If you have an older rig and the manufacturer cannot supply manual and/or wiring diagrams, many times those items can be found in eBay, Craigslist, etc.

Tim, Take a pair of coveralls with you and have the dealer show you what connector/wire/component was wrong and why. For two reasons: 1. Sometimes (unfortunately) the repair is done in hast and fails again somewhere down the road. This will give you a great advantage if this monster returns. 2. You can give us now, and anyone suffering from the same issue in the future, a detailed treatise on what happened, where, and why. Thanks.

I agree with everything said above, except I would add that on most Allison documentation I have seen, the exhaust brake signals go through a Vehicle Interface Module (VIM). It has several relays that perform voltage/current "interface" functions to and from the transmission and various external dry contacts in the coach (switches, relays, etc.). I mention this since it is another possible source of problems. The Allison ECU is silver and the VIM is black. Mine are side-by-side, but I have heard of many coaches having them many feet apart for some reason. In addition, if you have a PacBrake exhaust brake, the air solenoid (on many designs) is actuated by a "exhaust brake relay" somewhere between the VIM and the air solenoid. I doubt that is causing this problem, but if your coach has this relay it is good to know where it is located. Based on your current rapid number changing issue, I would query Allison and the Internet to learn what would create that symptom. But be prepared for a lot of "I don't know" responses. I have seen very similar maladies after working on equipment. Each time it was improper connector mating (shorts or opens) or a loose crimped connector pin in either the plug or socket -- usually the plug due to improper unplugging technique. If it were my coach, I would first look for error codes in both engine and transmission ECU's. Then check for proper chassis vdc at both ECU's and the VIM. Then check the exhaust brake relay line and note what is missing. Of course, this requires diagrams, troubleshooting experience, and time. Most folks don't want to tackle this themselves. Is your mechanic and his business Allison certified? If not, I would get another opinion from another Allison dealer. In fact, it's probably time for a fresh set of hands on this issue.

Tom, Great treatise on the Maritime Provinces. We hope to go in the summer of 2012. Regarding the RV parks there, is 50 amp utility common? Also, can most of the parks handle 40' MH and 20' tow vehicle. Thanks, Chuck

It would not be prohibited with the appropriate local station wavier, if he chose to pursue it. If his house is not in a grade B contour, it is moot. That said, he would be required to have an additional account for the RV receiver, which he may not want to bear the extra cost. But the option is available.

If you only use the service occasionally as you say, then Bill's advice "...The easiest is to use a home receiver and move it back and forth." is the best solution for the least price. More things to consider: You didn't say if your Directv home service is high definition (HD)? If your coach has the Slimline KU/KA dish it will expect to see a HD receiver. If you have HD receivers now in your house -- problem solved at no additional cost. Just put one in the coach when using it. If you have standard definition (SD) receivers in your house, the coach's antenna solution becomes more complex. "The only exception is that if you travel too far from home you will lose your network TV programming (ABC, NBC, CBS and Fox) as those signals are spot beamed and only available within an area 200-400 miles from the broadcast location." That's true if you now are subscribed to "local stations" via satellite. If not, you can get the networks anywhere you have satellite coverage with Directv's Distant Network Service (DNS). It will not be your local stations, but rather network stations in Los Angeles and New York City. To subscribe to DNS you need to send a written application and a copy of your RV registration to Directv. More info at http://www.directv.com/go Regarding the "old" Directv receiver in the coach, look on back. If it is a D12 model, don't throw it away. It is the current non-DVD standard definition receive only unit used by Directv. You can keep it as a spare (SD only) receiver or sell it.

Now I understand, Tom. We do what we have to do as we move forward. We've been in Falfurrias since November and will be here until the end of February. I'll try to contact you the next time we plan a trip down your way. Good luck to you on your new venture. Chuck

So, after reading their web site, is this program designed to run stand-alone on a PC? Like Microsoft Streets? Will it work like my CoPilot if I add GPS receiver data to the PC? What does it mean when they say "Tom Tom version also compatible with Co-Pilot"? Thanks, Chuck

Bill, That may an old one, but I thought it was intended to be a joke. Anyway, I got a great spontaneous laugh from it. Reminds me of a similar disclaimer from Silver Leaf electronics. Everyone, This lawsuit is typical in that the plaintiffs are looking at "deep pockets". Regardless of their own culpability. And with a family member high in the WM corporation, I can tell you Walmart's revenue from RV'er purchases is substantial and the corporation has no plans to alter that scenario. Walmart has been sued many times over many issues, and still is the largest corporation in the world. It's bigger than ExxonMobil. And growing. What will happen is the corporation will offer a sealed settlement to the plaintiffs and they will go away. Maybe some new "liability" signs will be posted in WM parking lots, but short of local governmental actions, over-night parking policy will remain. Which by the way, short of local ordnance restrictions, is totally at the discretion of the individual store's manager.

"...the license I held from South Dakota entitled me to drive the motor home and Texas granted the license on that basis. Tom, I presume you had either a SD class1 or class2 license? I think you got lucky, or Texas has recently changed their codes regarding heavy RV's. I've read many posts on various boards over time that people who transfer their license from a state that allows driving a motorhome of any weight with air brakes (like a class "C" license in California) to Texas (and some other states), still had to test for the Texas non-commercial class B. In fact as I recall, when we were considering Texas as a domicile, that state's DL requirements for RV's over certain weights was one (of many) reasons we chose South Dakota. I'm not saying I agree or disagree with Texas' requirements. Certainly I've seen many quirks, particularly when we lived in California. I'm just curious what is now required in Texas. It sounds like you have changed domicile to Texas. Can you share your thoughts on that? Thanks, Chuck

In 40 years of RVing I've never known or read of anyone waxing the roof, or recommendations for doing so. Typically due to the safety issues Brett mentioned, plus the requirement of constant reapplication as with any polymer based substance. The difference with wax in this class of surface protectants is simply being more labor intensive than most other options. With many bus conversions the streaking issue is remedied with a quality base coat - clear coat application to the roof, whether metal or fiberglass. Also good rain gutters on the coach help more than you might think. I used KoolSeal over the composition roof of a past house to avoid a roof job. When we left, the coating had been on three years and still showed no signs of aging of chalking. Around $30. per gallon. I was very pleased with the results of bonding, sealing, and good looks. We plan to do the same on the coach roof this summer since the fiberglass roof is beginning to chalk a little, resulting in the white streaks. When we stop I use blue liquid Wash Wax All cleaner. It cleans bugs and streaks, and leaves a nice shine with no water required. Spray it on - wipe it off. No buffing. I used to use Protect All but I've found the Wash Wax All cleaner easier to use. But I don't use it on the roof. http://www.washwax.com Be careful that whatever you use is specified for use on fiberglass.

For the price they are a bargain. Particularly with the addition of the NOAA channels. Granted, you may not use them but again for the price the radios have all the amenities of more expensive units. Keep some things in mind for these units or any similar on the market: 1. They won't do anything close to 23 miles unless you are on a mountain top talking to someone via line-of-sight in the valley. And then, more often than not it will not work. There are just too many factors in radio engineering to get it to work. They just don't have the power output and optimized antenna. They say that in their marketing because they performed a test with all the environmental and engineering factors optimized to the max, and got an audible signal. For practical use, figure a mile or two at best, most of the time. 2. The "privacy code" element of these models is the same as most. But most people don't realize so-called privacy codes keep you from hearing someone else's transmissions on the same frequency. It does not keep your transmissions "private" from someone listening with a scanner radio. 3. iVOX is only usable in an environment with little or no background noise, unless you have a high quality noise canceling microphone -- which none of this class of radio has. For the use they were designed for, and the available functions, they are about half the price I paid three years ago. And the reviews are favorable, one of the most important factors in buying anything today.

"The only time you would see this kind of a transfer speed would be if you had 2 computers connected to this router and you were transferring files from one computer to another." That is true if you have a Ethernet connection to both PC's. It will never be true with any WiFi connection of the B, G, or N wireless protocol. It is due to protocol management data that takes a large chunk of bandwidth, leaving less for "user data". Many factors affect actual user throughput speed. One critical parameter is the number of "data resends". This varies with numerous equipment and environmental factors. Regardless of what the wireless icons tell you.

Tim, I got into this thread late, but glad to hear you got everything going again. Regarding "... the washer/dryer is on a 30 amp breaker", I'm curious what type of outlet is fed by that 30 breaker. Do you have a combination washer/dryer or a stack of separate washer and dryer. If the latter, do you have 2 different outlets in the WD area? Thanks, Chuck

Terry and Fred, Congratulations on your upcoming first anniversary. We are in Falfurrias, TX until late February, then will be in Livingston for a couple months workamping at the Escapees CARE facility. If you plan to be around either area in the next 4 months, let us know. I'll pick your brain about Amateur Radio over dinner. Happy trails, Chuck & Elva

Wayne, that's exactly how it works. The RV manufacturers do the same thing. Regardless of what they tell you, it always comes down to the money. David, "The original reefer failed at age 7 years, 4 months after the original recall was performed on it." On many if not most of the first recall refers they were replacing the entire cooling unit thinking that was the problem. It was. Unfortunately, the new cooling units were the same basic design as the original, and ultimately some of them leaked also, causing fires. An additional created problem was most techs are not proficient in replacing the complete cooling unit, and many failed prematurely due to this. Then, as Norcold describes in a posting, the "algorithm" response time to a high temperature condition was too slow, resulting in another recall. Now Norcold is sending out a bimetal high limit temperature switch (similar to that used on hot water heaters and furnaces) and is mounted on the refer boiler to sense an over-temperature condition. They will pay for 30 minutes of the tech's time which includes a sheet metal flame barrier inserted between the boiler and cabinet wall. The switch will either cut off the 120vac (per Norcold) or the 12vdc to the gas solenoid thereby shutting off the LPG supply. Have seen contradicting information on this. Per two techs, flame operation is the greater issue since the open flame mixing with hydrogen crated from the leaking and vaporizing coolant causes the fire issue. From industry sources, the cooling units used by both Dometic and Norcold are manufactured by the same company on Europe. This is why they both have the same issues. And the "new" cooling units used in the first recall was basically a newer version of the original -- some of which failed in the same manner due to "pushing" the design limits of the cooling units due to being stressed by the demand for cooler temperatures installed in locations without proper ventilation (slide outs). So the refer makers are now sending out a new band aid solution for the same original problem. And it should work as far as preventing a fire. But it will not stop a potential leak in the cooling unit -- the original problem. We purchased our coach as second owners last year. The refer had practically no use for 10 years. It has worked flawless for us for the past year of full time operation. Even in 110 degree temps. Probably due to two large fans cooling the refer cooling unit. But I am scheduled to to have the high limit switch installed next month by a Norcold authorized mobile service tech. And I will be looking over his shoulder even though I did similar stuff for 40 years. Then I will do whatever mod is necessary to make sure the 120vac and LPG are shut down to the refer. Plus I have an extra temp sensor and spray head in the engine fire detection/suppression system that will go into the refer compartment. I'm starting to hear from more and more people that "Oh, the RV frig is only good for 3 or 4 years." What baloney! It's widely known if you keep telling someone the same thing over and over, they will eventually believe it. Yes, their are certain things you, the owner, need to do to keep it running well. Kind of like doing basic maintenance on your car to keep it running. I was into Bus conversions and can say household refer units used as replacements for the RV units have many woodworking and electrical capacity issues. Even if you don't boondock a lot. When my Norcold cooling unit eventually leaks and/or dies, I'll get a new (not rebuilt) totally redesigned Amish unit for our coach for $1K, and keep our existing refer.

Gary, Several years before we retired we purchased the book Tom Butler recommended. It is full of timely and concise information to make a wise choice of home base selection. Also their was a great treatise on the web at the time. I can't find the link now. And as mentioned, their are several forums on line that you can get more info regarding the Domicile issue. Unfortunately, most states have different Domicile requirements so you need to research and read for yourself the current requirements for the State you are interested in. Many can be found on line. From the standpoint of taxation, vehicle insurance rates, vehicle registration fees, vehicle sales tax rate, no vehicle safety or smog inspections; as a combination, you won't find a cheaper state than South Dakota. And as fulltime RV'ers Domiciled in Minnehaha County, we are exempt from jury duty requirements. Not the case for most other SD counties. That said, you need to query your health insurance company about insurance costs there. As Bill Adams noted, location does make a difference -- depending on the carrier. The Homeland Security Act of 2005 has mandated that all states implement new residency and security issues. SD is no different, but I can say it still is one of the easiest to become a Domiciled resident, and still be a fulltime RV'er. We recently got our new "Federally compliant" South Dakota drivers licenses. Totally different from the original versions. And it only took one form with two simple questions. If you're adamant about Ohio for some reason, I can say it won't be the least costly home base. Most of the folks I know with Domicile problems have a drivers license in one state, vehicle registration in another state, and work or live in yet another state. I realize you are not looking at this scenario, but I present it for general information.

By the way, Welcome to the FMCA forums and the wonderful world of RVing. Chuck

Gary, We've been using the M&G system since 1995 on three different towed trucks from 3500 lbs to 8000+ lbs. As Bill said, you quick connect an air line between the coach and the towed vehicle. And your done. Nothing to mount; no fuses to pull; no adjustments. And no pumps, connectors or wiring. I have found it easy to install and I'm not a professional mechanic. Their instructions are simple and concise. And it can be used on either a hydraulic brake or air brake coach. The only downside to M&G is they don't have air cylinders for some smaller towed vehicles. Chuck

Donny, I agree with everything Ed said. If your motorhome does not have an existing controller, do a Google search for "electric brake controller" (less the quotes) and you will see info for Tekonsha, Reese Towpower, Hopkins Reliance, Hayes, and Curt Manufacturing controllers. Also, request the wiring diagram for your coach from the manufacturer; specifically the tow connector wiring. You may have to run new wires, but it's much easier if the builder pre-installed them. I was happy with a Tekonsha for many years in the '80's, but advances have been made in the motion sensing technology. I recommend you research all available controllers, including feedback from existing users of late model controllers. Good luck, Chuck