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We have a 1997 Monaco Dynasty with 50 amp electrical service. Our inverter/charger (original equipment) is a Heart Interface Freedom 20 (2000 watt capacity) which allows limited adjustments for charging voltages. Having just replaced our house batteries with two new Lifeline 12 volt AGMs, proper charging settings seem important. However, the adjustments provided by the charger don't match those specified by the battery manufacturer. The battery manufacturer recommends bulk charging at 14.2 to 14.4 volts, and float charging at 13.2 to 13.4 volts. The closest I can get to those with the dip switch settings on the charger are: a. Bulk charging at 14.3 volts (3 hours) followed by float charging at 13.8 volts; or b. Bulk charging at 13.9 volts (1 hour) followed by float charging at 13.3 volts. I don't want to replace the inverter/charger unless necessary, but we also don't want to damage these expensive new batteries by over-charging or under-charging. The coach is not plugged in while stored, so I've tentatively set the switches to match option "a" above figuring that we won't be on the float charge voltage very often. Does anyone have any better or other ideas? Thanks so much! Tim

Dowdyl, First and foremost, does the coach meet you needs or requirements? Before you can answer that question, you -or the tow of you - need to discuss what your proposed use and needs are. If this coach is not equipped to meet your needs, keep looking. Its very much a buyers market these days. If the coach will meet your needs, then make arrangements to inspect and check the operation of every single thing on the RV. Yes, every switch, light, window, faucet, gauge, cabinet, door, storage bay, rooftop gadget, etc. This will take at least a couple of hours; if the seller won't make the time available ... Adios amigo. If the coach checks out and you are still interested, then have an experienced professional inspect it for you again. This will cost you some money but it will be worth it in the long run. Have the pros put the coach on a dyno to see how the engine and trans are performing, and have them road test it with you. With that information, you'll be in a position to make an informed decision and a good deal. Take your time, and good luck. Tim

Jason, If I remember correctly, your Holiday Rambler was manufactured by Monaco. Monaco was purchased by Navistar and is still in business. I have a 97 Monaco Dynasty and have contacted them for help before. They have been very helpful and I'd suggest you might contact them. Another possibility is http://en.visonerv.com/ They are an RV dismantler and they have a 99 Monaco they are parting out. Chances are fair that the same circuit on your coach was used 2 year later. Finally, the guys at Veurinks RV (888-814-5189) sold HRs for decades, and claim they can find anything if you give them the VIN of your coach. Maybe they can get you the board you need. Best wishes on you hunt! Tim

RJ, Two other quick thoughts: 1. Welcome to the Fmca Forum! 2. Take a look at the other thread from a week ago entitled Chassis Batteries on 2005 Beaver Monterey. There are some good comments there which you might find useful for your situation. Cheers, Tim

RJ, No, you shouldn't need to turn the inverter on to charge the chassis batteries. Also, the 14.0V reading on your panel is for the house batteries, so they are fully charged. I would get the coach plugged in to shore power and get the dead batteries charged fully up. Then load test the batteries and see how well they will hold a charge. Next, turn everything off and check if you have excessive amp draws while the coach is parked. With the results of those two tests, the solution should become clear. BTW, How old are the chassis batteries? Best wishes, Tim

Ken, From your home in Trabuco Canyon, there is a good weigh station nearby in Tustin. Schlick Moving & Storage, 2721 Michelle Drive, Tustin. It's roomy, never crowded, and you'll have lots of time to weigh each side, front and back, and so forth. Their phone number is 714-731-5500. Good luck and happy travels.

My coach has a 3 jack system too. While we have not had the problem you described, we experienced something similar. Once, when we had one side lifted considerably more than another, we had trouble closing some of the basement bay doors. When this happened, I checked the jacks and found we had lifted one side so much the jack on the other side was not touching the ground at all. We have found the best approach is just as Richard described above. First, find a somewhat level location to start with. Then dump the air bags to lower the coach. Next, plant the front jack firmly before lowering the second two to touch the ground also. Then adjust the jacks to level. It is important that all three jacks are equally loaded, even though they may be extended to different lengths. When you experience the trouble with the front door, is one jack usually extended a whole lot further than the others? Also, when the door trouble appears, are there other signs of stress such as with windows or basement doors? Good luck and happy Thanksgiving. Tim

Hi CountryGent, First of all, welcome to the FMCA Forum. You'll find a lot of help available here. From your description, four sets of chassis batteries have died within a short period of time. Clearly the trouble is not defective batteries; they failed because they were discharged so deeply they could not be recovered. It seems you are faced with one or both of two troubles. 1. The batteries are not being charged from the alternator. I'm not sure what an "exitor" wire is, but it seems clear your alternator is not charging the chassis batteries without this wire being connected. Whatever the cause of the alternator trouble is, it must be identified and resolved. Without confirmation that the alternator is reliably charging, no further progress can be made. 2. Something is draining the batteries. Once fresh batteries are again installed, connect a multi tester in line with the with positive lead and see if any current is being drawn when your main battery switch is "off". Then see how much current is being drawn when the switch is "on" but nothing is running. By process of elimination, you can eventually find what is drawing the current down on your batteries. Since you are sure that problem #1 exists, you would probably be best to address that problem first. Once that is resolved, then you can see if problem #2 is also present. Once both are identified and addressed, things should be ok again. By the way, what assurance do you have that the isolator is working properly? Please let us know how things progress. Best wishes, Tim

Bill, I am concerned that you may have a safety problem on your hands. You indicate ALL your GFIC breakers pop as soon as you connect power from either a shore cord or your genset. Also, this problem surfaced after you left the coach for repairs to the air system. Let's remember that coach wiring is different from house wiring. One cause of ALL the GFI breakers triggering is a shorted or crossed neutral/groung wire as might have happened if the mechanics inadvertently put a screw or drill bit through a wire while repairing the air system. This exactly the danger discussed in the excellent May-July articles "Wired for Safety" in the FMCA magazine. So, with great respect to some of the other contributors, let me recommend against replacing GFI breakers with non-GFI breakers. I would also query the technicians who worked on the air system and learn EXACTLY what the did and where they did it. Those GFI breakers were installed for your safety and whatever is triggering them needs to be identified in a careful manner. Good luck. Please let us know what you find. Tim

Hmmmm, We have two propane appliances with the same trouble; i.e. both appear operative but will not ignite. I'm wondering if there might be a common cause. Many of these systems won't operate properly below 11 volts DC and you mentioned the genset is not working. Is there any chance you could get the unit plugged in to 120 VAC, or bring a portable generator to power the unit while you test this idea. It seems worthwhile to try this out before tearing into the igniters and wiring. Is your refrigerator igniting ok? If not, then I would be even more suspicious of low voltage as the culprit. Let's try to get the coach plugged in to 120 (either shore power or a genset) and see if the igniters fire up. If so, you're all done. If not, it will be time to dive into the wiring and the igniters. Let's hope it's the voltage. Tim

We have the Auto Club's RV service and have called on them twice for assistance. In each instance we were having fuel supply troubles for our diesel. In the first instance, they dispatched a mechanic with a huge wrecker very promptly. He indicated it would take quite a while to get our coach ready to tow and it might be quicker to just fix the fuel problem if possible. I agreed and he found the problem, returned with his service/parts truck, and resolved the issue for us -- at no charge. The second time we needed help from the AAA was a holiday weekend in snowy Yosemite. There were miscommunications and it took AAA several hours to get a properly equipped tow truck to us. Once he finally arrived, he too identified the trouble, got us up and running, and followed us out just to make sure we were alright; again at no charge. I have not needed help with tires, but am happy with the AAA's RV service so far. Tim

We also use the Webber Q200 and love it. For motorhome usage, storage is a big issue. The fact the side decks fold up into the unit for storage helps a lot. Another plus is the removable and disposable fat/waste pans. The fats roll down into the pan for easy disposal so you don't have to clean it out or worry about it dripping in your basement. We've found this unit rugged and reliable, and would purchase it again. Happy travels, Tim

Hi Dave, On the hot water heater, it sounds like the igniter isn't operating; i.e. sparking. Three prospects come to mind: (1) no power is getting to the unit, (2) the igniter unit is inoperative, or (3) grounding/corrosion troubles. Given the age of your coach, all three are possibilities. Testing the ground side is easy. Run a separate 12V power to a test lamp and then try to ground the light through the ground side of the igniter circuit. No light = bad ground. Similarly, testing the supply side of the circuit is simple. Connect a test lamp to the supply side, ground to a known/solid ground, and activate the circuit. No light = no power. If both the power supply side and the ground side check out ok, install a replacement igniter unit. As to the furnace, it would seem strange to have it controlled by the Magic Fan. The thermostat on the Magic Fan more likely sets the termperature at which the fan activates in the "automatic" mode. Are you sure the furnace isn't controlled by the second/bedroom thermostat ? Please check your controls and manuals and we should be able to figure that out. Good luck, let us know how things progress. Tim

The Monaco products of that era (1998) used an electronic throttle position sensor. If I remember correctly, the sending unit near the throttle pedal sends a signal to the engine control unit indicating how far you have the pedal depressed. If you are getting a garbled signal, it may be sending an error code. Otherwise, testing the individual components might be in order. Has the problem re-occurred? Tim

Hi Dave, If you could provide further details, it might help us assist in troubleshooting with you. As to the hot water heater, the unit sounds operational since you are manually igniting it. So, let's assume the trouble is the automatic ignition. What model is the unit? When you attempt to turn it on automatically, to you hear any clicking noises (trying to spark)? Is the unit getting adequate power? How to the electrical connections look? On the furnace, the same questions seem pertinent. Also, do you have the same trouble when connected to shore power or with the genset running? Does the furnace thermostat control other devices (a/c units, or a fan)? If so, are those units working properly from the thermostat controller? If you could offer some further details, we can probably help you get to the bottom of these troubles. Good luck, Tim

Hi Joe, There are lots of reasons why the wiring failed; corrosion, genset output problems, lack of maintenance of the AC units, and so forth. We would need more information to try to help you sort that out. However, you should know we have all had trips like yours. A motorhome has lots of interconnected systems (mechanical, electric, hydraulic, propane, etc.) and they all need attention from time to time. Your coach is nearly 20 years old and it will probably take you awhile to get everything into the top shape you'll want to have it in. It took us about a year to get our coach to the point where we could leave cross-country at any time. This is a very fun hobby, and a motorhome can add a lot of fun and freedom to your travels. Don't give up, catch a short trip soon and just go enjoy the sunset and dinner. Best wishes for a better trip next time out. Tim

Steve, Many of the state parks near Santa Barbara have size limits too small for your coach. Here are some options where you can fit in. 1. El Capitan State Beach. 800-444-PARK. We dry camped there and loved it. 2. Santa Barbara Sunrise RV Park. 805-966-9954. I have not stayed there but did a "drive by" and it looked ok. 3. Lake Casitas. Great fishing, but not in Santa Barbara. 805-649-2233. 4. Emma Wood State Beach (closer to Ventura). We stayed there and it was wonderful. 805-648-4127. 5. Lake Cachuma Recreation Area. In the foothills just east of Santa Barbara. 805-686-5054. All these are way cheaper than the $100 per night you mentioned. Happy travels, Tim

Robert, If your engine was actually not circulating oil, you would have suffered substantial damage during the 45 minutes you continued driving. Consequently, I'd concur with Tom that the gauge is malfunctioning. Do you have an auxiliary oil pressure gauge in your engine bay? If so, let's see if it also shows no pressure. If both gauges show no pressure, the common sending unit is the most likely culprit. If the gauge in the engine bay shows pressure and the one on the dashboard shows none, then I'd look at the dash unit and the wiring leading to it. Finally, you might be able to install a temporary (or permanent) manual gauge to an unused oil pressure port. That will give you an independent confirmation of the oil pressure -- and peace of mind! Best wishes, Tim

How about standard extruded foam pipe insulation? It's cheap, flexible, and available at most hardware stores. I haven't seen it made for small diameter pipes, so you might have to cut some extra strips and pack them in the center to reduce the inner diameter for a good fit. Good luck, Tim

You might try calling Monaco {800-634-9855}. They might have some suggestions. Good luck. Tim

Welcome to the FMCA Forum Astmi, Rather than comparing brands, it might be better to compare the specifications of the particular tires being considered. The issue is the tires' ability to safely carry the weight of your motorhome. Start by weighing your coach (loaded as you would be for a trip) at a truck stop or other weigh station. You need to get the total weight, the weight on each axle, and the weight on each tire. With that information, you can see if the tires being suggested are rated to carry that weight with a reasonable margin of safety. Both the brands you mentioned are reputable and they probably have similar warranties. If the less expensive Firestones are rated to carry your actual weights, then it would seem to make sense. So review the manufacturer's published tire ratings yourself; don't simply take the salesman's word for it. Also, don't assume the tires now on your coach are adequate. They may be underrated for the loads you are carrying. The only way to know is to weigh the coach. After that, the numbers speak for themselves. Good luck and happy travels. Tim

If the roof previously leaked in the same area where the delamination now appears, the two events may be related. The exterior siding of most motorhomes is glued to a backing (i.e. substrate) material. When water gets into those areas it can destroy the adhesive bond between the siding and the substrate. In other cases, especially if the substrate is plywood or a similar material, the water causes the substrate to swell or come apart, which in turn pushes the siding out. As to the wheel wells, those areas often have water intrusion issues because the tires throw water forcefully when driving in wet conditions. Consequently, your various complaints may share moisture intrusion as a common cause. Yes, delamination can be repaired, but it is sometimes an expensive proposition. The repairs range from opening the area and injecting additional glue (relatively cheap) to removing the siding and rebuilding the substrates (pricey). A creative body shop might find other ways to reattach the delaminated areas. While it would probably not work for a newer coach like yours, I've seen some older motorhomes where the owner simply put screws or rivets through the delaminated areas to resecure them. It wasn't pretty but it probably worked well. Your best course is probably to find a reputable RV collision and paint center, and have them look it over. Shop around; you'll probably find considerable variation in prices. I hope this helps and wish you well. Tim

Welcome to the FMCA forum. If you could provide further details, it will be most helpful. You'll find that the more information you provide in your post, the better the responding advice will be. In this case, how old is your motorhome, and where is the delamination (roof?, sidewall? other?)? Also, is the delam near a window, door, air condiitioner, ect.? Before you decide whether and how to treat the delamination, it will be important to figure out what is causing it. Some frequent causes are water intrusion, lack of sealing, wind lift, and structural damage. If you can provide details or pictures, we will try to help you out. Best wishes, Tim

Welcome to the FMCA forum, Several sources of reliable information are available. Bob Livingston's book, "Trailer Life's RV Repair & Maintenance Manual" provides detailed information. Also, you might find Safari manuals on E-Bay for through online Safari communities. Finally, this FMCA website has lots of great instructional videos, articles, and discussions. Wasn't the Safari brand acquired by Monaco? If so, the new company may be able to provide some guidance too. Best wishes for happy motoring, Tim

Joe, We use much the same approach as the Butlers; i.e. planning to average no more than 50 mph, and being "all tucked in" before dark if possible. With this being your first voyage in the motorhome, there will be lots of things to discover, figure out, and coordinate with your co-pilot. If you leave yourself extra time, the trip might be a lot more enjoyable. Also, if you are taking children along, they need time to run and play to make the trip enjoyable - so stopping early becomes even more important. Good luck on your trip. Please let us know how things go. Tim