Sundancer268

The Brand Name of the higher end levelers.

Any possibility the pressure switch or the connection to it could be going bad?

Has anything changed since Obummer Care came on the scene? We have Medicare and TriCare for Life and neither cover out of the States, is Mr Schulteis still around or are there any other contacts? Thanks, Ed

Personally, My wife will not give up her Propane Stove and Oven even though we have the Micro wave convection oven, she made me replace the cook top for a real stove as she put it. We also have not had any major problems with the Reefer in any of our campers over the years. I know people have had problems and maybe we are just lucky but until that time we will stay as a mixed camper on our power sources.

Make sure you have a breaker at the receptacle so you can plug in and disconnect with out a load on the circuit. This will prevent the plug and receptacle from being damaged from the arc caused by a load when connecting and disconnecting. Almost every camp ground I go to the circuit breakers are on and I have to turn them off prior to connecting and this tells me that the previous occupants are not knowledgeable about the electrical system and its potential for future problems for their unit and other people who follow after them. I did install a camp ground box on the side on my garage with all three receptacles for my coach and family members who stop by and am very happy with it. It sure beats the extension cord under the garage door any day.

Has anyone ever removed their six (6) gallon Suburban water heater and replace it with a six (6) gallon Atwood Water Heater? If so how hard was it to modify the existing opening to make the Atwood fit and look good? I do not like having to change the anode rod in the Suburban and I have the Atwood installed in my Travel Trailer and really like it and would like to install one in the Motor Home. Thanks. Ed

One thing to consider when the slides are out is more leverage will be generated and transfer some of the weight from the non-slide side suspension to the slide side suspension. Yes the motor home weighs the same with or with-out the slides out. The only change is in the leverage generated. Very little with a small slide to very large with a deep and large slide. With slides on both sides the equation changes again. To keep everything in balance, I would extend the jacks. If the concrete was installed properly and allowed to cure properly there will be no harm to it. I park mine on my slab every summer and take most of the weight off the suspension and have had no signs of damage. Happy Travels.

Can TranSynd be used as synthetic Power Steering Fluid and would you recommend it?

If I am reading this right the OP has a 1994 coach. With this vintage engine, I doubt that the engine has electronic engine controls. That would imply that with the mechanical fuel injection, the tack signal has to come from some where else. The most common place in that era was the Alternator and some engines if not using the alternator used a separate signal pick-up The Tack is where I would start first. Could just be a bad connection on the sensor or a failing alternator.

For a Chevy, the 454 was not a bad engine. There was a lot of exhaust manifold problems in the class A motor homes with that engine and was probably due to the tight installations and heat build up. Father-in-law replaced two sets on his Bounder. Other than that, the engine performed quite well. Horse power is what you make of it. Some people can not stand to go one tenth of a mile per hour under the speed limit and no one makes enough horse power for them. Others like my self just get into the right hand lanes and let the world go by. If on a two lane road, just keep an eye on the traffic behind you and when three or four vehicles build up behind find a place to pull over and let them go by.

I just rebuilt the riser in my Gulf Stream, the original was rotted out and only made of 1/2" plywood. I made the new one out of 3/4" and installed a sub-frame to mount it to. The old unit was attached to the 1/8" wall paneling only with screws and the wall board was ripped and not holding anything. The toilet was only supported by the flange and the angled piping to the holding tank. The repair was covered with a single sheet of vinyl flooring from the tub up the face and over the top of the platform. All edges were sealed with RTV tub and tile caulk and when dry the toilet flange and piping reinserted into the tank and the toilet reinstalled. It is now as solid as a cement floor. Nothing moves or wiggles.

They work great, I just hook it up and leave it for a week or so and then move it on to other batteries in my other equipmemt. I try to leave the battery minder on all of my batteries for at least a week before moving on to another piece of equipment in storage. Pickup, Lawn Tractor etc.

Any good Welding Shop should be able to do it for you. I had to lower my seats as when the wife and I sat in any seat her feet would not touch the floor and I barely could reach the floor. We unbolted the seats and removed the mounts from the floor and took them to a local welding shop and they removed 3" from each post. We reinstalled them and now every one is happy. It did require both of us to remove the mounting bolts, one inside and me under the coach or in the storage compartments depending on which of the four seats we were working on.

DOT 5 Brake Fluid is a silicone fluid and IS NOT compatable with any other brake fluid. There is a new DOT 5? brake fluid which is compatable but you will probably have a hard time finding it. If you want to try and find the new DOT 5 make sure it is compatable with the older DOT standards and not the silicone type. My 1982 Harley used the DOT 5 and some specially built race vehicles used it also. Maybe some exotic foreign cars will also use it. Just replace it with DOT 4 or DOT 3 and change it every 2-3 years.

The only reason to keep it would be as a back up charger if the inverter fails. I had that happen and I could not use the inverter's battery charger to keep my batteries charged so I could run my furnace. I have since installed an auxiliary battery charger for a backup. I think I would just wire it up correctly and then kill the power until or if you need it.

All machinery is affected by what is circulating in the lubrication system so anything you can remove is for the better. If you have ever sent in your oil to an oil lab to be analyzed you would be surprised at what types of material they will find circulating in there. The Oil Analysis will help you keep track of your equipment wear rates and tell you what is happening in your engine or transmission by the wear particles it picks up in the test. Bottom line, I would do it without reservation. Allison is a believer in that the Allison 1000 series comes from the factory with a magnet positioned on the oil filter. An oil change requires you to remove the magnet from the old filter and reinstall it on the new filter. You would be surprised how many magnets are thrown away with the old oil filter because of people not knowing to remove and replace.

My Magnatec Inverter came with a temperature probe you mount to the battery Negative Post or attach to the side of the battery. This is used to make all battery charging decisions that would have to be manually set for temperature variations. I leave my Motor home plugged in 27/7/365 with this system an have no problems with either the coach or chassis batteries. I also added an Intelitec B.I.R.D. box to my system to keep all batteries charged no matter what is providing the charge. I believe this is better than the Trickle-Start that other people recommend as this is Bi-Directional Charging system where the Trickle-Start is only capable of keeping Chassis battery charged when plugged in to shore power. My Battery Control Center (BCC) was suppose to have this capability but it was not working and was a lot cheaper to disable that circuit board and add the B.I.R.D. module. Besides the B.I.R.D. module is 15+ years newer technology. Even with the temperature probe you still have to set the charger for the battery amp hours, type (AGM, Flooded or Gel) etc.

I always run with my head lights on in any vehicle I am driving. I do not like the current Day time running lights because you see to many General Motors Products with one or both of their DRL burnt out. I also do not like the fact that they turn on immediately when you turn on the ignition switch, I would prefer that they come on as soon as I place the transmission in to gear. This could be easily accomplished today by monitoring the action of the Clutch Pedal on a manual and the Transmission pressure in an automatic. I did the automatic transmission on a 1975 Scout II by tapping a pressure switch into one of the pressure test ports used to diagnose the transmission in a shop. Worked great. With all of the computers in a modern vehicle this would be easy with just a few lines of code. I wanted to put the DRL system in my 2005 Ford Focus, but as I studied the wiring diagrams I realized that they would turn on as soon as I turned on my Ignition Switch which is a no go for me. Wish they would have used their heads in designing the system. I think it was done on the quick and dirty just to satisfy the Canadian laws and not with any intention of being safe.

Have you tried killing the 12 volt power to the Water Heater? When the board goes in to lock-up that is the only way to reset the control system for the water heater. If you have air in the line you could have to kill the power several times before the air works its way out. Good luck.

Why not, I own both a Travel Trailer and a Class "A". So I guess it is already being infiltrated by the lesser classes. I guess I will just take the MH to gatherings where the TT will not be welcome.

There is a product I am going to try called RainKap (Rainkap.com) that replaces the trim cover on the roof to side wall trim strip. They will send out a sample to see if it will work for your situation. Good Luck

Drive Shaft Parking Brakes are all so used on motor homes with Air Over Hydraulic Brakes. While I was in my drive way moving slowly I intentionally applied my parking brake to see what the response would be. The Brake applies very fast and the coach rocked back and forth for a few seconds as the drive shaft and engine/transmission mounts absorbed the energy. I hope they never apply them self when we are underway. You also should have an Air Dryer that will need periodic service. This will be located near the engine mounted air compressor. My Spartan Chassis recommends every three years. You have a cartridge that looks like an upside down oil filter which will need periodic replacement. I work on the principal that as long as the air tanks are dry the air dryer is doing it's job. When the least little bit of moisture or oil show up in the tanks it is time for service. A lot of the recommended service intervals are based on heavy usage and will not apply to a motor home when driven as I use mine. A few hundred miles a year is not the same as 50,000 miles a year. Good luck and welcome to the motor home club.

I purchased my unit in Minnesota and paid the sales tax in my home state of Michigan. Dealer sent me the title after I paid for the unit and when I went out in the spring to pick it up I had a temporary Michigan plate to drive home on. Michigan RAPES you on license plates, they still think the coach is worth what it was when the manufacturer placed the original MSRP on it. I just buy the temporary plates for two two month periods. I just do not think it is worth well over $450 for annual plates when the season is only 4 or 5 months each year. When I retire I will switch my residence to some where that the plates reflect a 20 year old coach's worth. Even if we were offered 6 month plates, I probably would consent to that. It all went to **** in 84 when we changed from a weight based fee to a Value rated fee. The only problem is the value does not fall after five years. My 98 Lincoln with 196,000 plus miles on it cost more to plate than my 2005 Focus or 2004 Silverado cost new. Enough of this rant.

Years ago we used dish washer detergent or TSP from the hardware store to clean and flush an oil contaminated system. I do not know how that would work with the newer cooling systems. I am sure that an Auto Parts Store or Radiator Shop could supply the required information.