dickandlois

bruceea, Welcome to the FMCA forum. The reference to poor braking with hydraulic brakes, might have been the fact that when the fluid gets hot there is more brake fade. One has to remember that all braking systems will experience brake fade as things heat up. Just need to keep from over driving the brakes! Going to fast down hill is not a situation anybody wants to be in. Brett, Should the owner live in the North East, the entire braking system should be done yearly; if your chasing the best snow for snowmobiling and skiing. They just love salt in this part of the country !!! Rich.

Roger, It was just a thought, but the other item I was thinking about. We often spend time considering a number of issues concerning what tires are best suited for each coach. Should we consider how different tires on our towed vehicle respond when being towed versus being driven. We often load them with items and the weight could very considerably from the weight when being driven. Rich.

Frank, sounds like a gummed up carburetor, spray just a little starting fluid into the air cleaner. then try cranking the engine. It may fire and run just a few seconds, repeat the process. Should it start and keep running keep a close eye on the area of the carburetor. If fuel is running out of it stop the engine. Let it set for a time, like and hr or so. restart the engine. Repeat the cycle 3 or 4 times. them when you get time add a good carburetor cleaner to the gas tank. That should clean the varnish and gummy material from the carburetor and float. Post the results. Rich.

Frank, got to say that is strange, you mentioned removing the Body Builder fuse removed the parasitic load from the Coach batteries. Even thought the fuse is in a fuse box under the dash. 1.5 amps is going somewhere! The fact that it is loading the coach batteries, would make one think something related to the coach circuits.. Do you have power operated steps / and do the coach and chassis disconnect relays still work? Rich.

Wellsie, Could you post the numbers found on the part and any other information for the group. You could give Monaco a call and see if they have some additional information, they might be able to provide information on who the supplier was. Posting a picture might help to identify the manufacture also ! Rich.

The Old way to calculate ones speed, is to use the mile markers along the road. When the road has them. Watch the second hand of your watch, as you pass one note the second hand location at the next marker read the time is seconds. Then use time in seconds divided into 3600 55 seconds / into 3600= 65.4545 MPH----- 60 seconds / into 3600=60.0 MPH Do the Speedometer and the Odometer match the mile post points and the speed calculated. Handy should one loose that part of the instrument panel and the tachometer is still running. I do use a GPS now days, but nice to have a backup. Rich.

Frank, The fuse labeled "Body Builder Access Feed (run only)" Thinking it powers the monitoring system / the battery disconnect circuits and LP detector plus a few others. Looking for item(s) that do not operate. is one way too narrow it down. The other tool you could look into is a circuit tracer. They work well for finding where the wires run between too points. They come in a wide price range. The tone generator, puts a tone on the wire and the level needs to be adjusted lower to narrow down the exact wire; by using the receiver portion. Lowe's has them and you can search the web for circuit tracers to get an idea of the price range and even look at a user manual(s) on line (with Make and model)to find one you feel will work. It takes time and a learning curve, but one can get very good at finding circuits with practice. Rich.

One has to wonder how many large trucks running CNG for fuel are being affected, when on roads they travel? Saving on fuel cost but going the long way around in some cases. Rich

Tireman, I just had to post this, the devil in me is coming out ! Wonder if we could get a few laps in, driving an RV with different tires. After all, all of them are not all created equal, but then it might not be the best way to test larger tires! https://autos.yahoo.com/news/performance-tire-throwdown-212937216.html Rich

ruagore, Welcome to the FMCA fourm! Got into thinking about your issue and forgot the welcome, hope you do not think we where being rude! Rich.

Brett, Do the Cat ECM's log the lift pump fuel pressure at the output of the pump? Sounds like it is only showing up at cruising speeds. Did not want to start the second time, just makes me think lift pump. Rich.

Tilldee, No hard feelings on this end. Just glad you received information that was helpful. Kay and I have had a conversation or two and are kind of cut from the same cloth. Anyway, he has used a model like yours and had one up on me. Rich.

B, Who made your chassis? Cat supplied the engine ,but the chassis manufacture installed it. If you can get the part number(s), then one can see who could supply the new mounts Rich.

There have been a number of post on the Chassis thread regarding Air Spring questions and some members have had to replace them and for others still waiting for there turn. One can get the OEM units from the chassis manufacture, but there is a chance they could be out of stock or worse NLA. So this information is for those who might find it a helpful option down the road. Only listed the Firestone line, but there are a number of suppliers. Kit link for adding air springs to improve ride. http://www.firestoneip.com/site-resources/ride-rite/pdf/2011_Catalog.pdf Master Catalog link(covers the air springs used by chassis manufactures) http://www.firestoneip.com/site-resources/fsip/literature/pdf/AftermarketReplacementGuide2010.pdf Air Spring Cross Reference List. http://www.autosluzby.cz/asl_katalog/asl_katalog/pdfdwnload/FIRESTONE_west.pdf Bus Air Spring Literature that might help locate parts for converted units. http://www.firestoneip.com/site-resources/fsip/literature/pdf/BUS_014.pdf Air Spring Styles and mounting information. http://www.yslsb.com/i_prod/firestone%20airide.pdf Rich.

Thanks for the update, sounds like you a set for some summer travels and time with your four legged friend. Rich.

A working AC compressor takes that out of the equation. That leaves the heating element if your equipped with one and the circuit that reverses the cooling and heating coils. Should have asked before, but could post the make and model numbers of you AC and heat pump system? Rich.

Frank, welcome to the new owners learning curve ! Good post regarding the location of the fuse panels ! Could you post the chassis make and I will see if I have some fuse panel info. The one on the firewall / dash is for fusing the chassis items, lights, dash AC and heater motor ext. The ones in the engine compartment are the primary panels for the engine and the fuel pump, ignition, ECM, Most likely the entry power steps, ext. The one under the bed , slide out power, leveling jacks and holding tank monitor power, and power for activating the relay(s) in question. The one next to the AC breaker panel would power all the 12volt lights, roof fans, water pump, plus. I was thinking of suggesting removing the fuses to find the phantom loads this A M before I opened your post. Pull one fuse at a time from the panel. then use a test light across the fuse gap. if it lights that circuit is drawing power. The charging voltage, should be present on one side chassis and coach relay. reading from ground to all the large terminals of the relays. That voltage should be close to the same from both the engine alternator and shore powered convertor. Rich.

Frank, look in your AC circuit breaker panel and see if you have a tripped 15 Amp breaker. From the information I have, it looks like most of if not all the convertors are fuse at 15 amps AC. Regarding the Charging from shore power it should read very close to the same reading you are getting from the alternator. You should have a 12 volt fuse box that is power from the batteries and the convertor when things are working properly. How many fuses does your panel have and what is the total amperage when you add the fuse size numbers up? If the relays are always drawing current, that will be part of the load always present, if they are latching relays then that load is only temporary, until the relays latch in the on or off position.. The switches on the inside control panel, look like rocker switchs. Rich.

Frank, thanks for the information. Looking at the pictures you posted, are they of your coach system? The right hand relay labeled Chassis. There is a copper link / strap with nothing connected. Below it looks like there might be 2 gray wires connected to it. That should be a ground. The coach batteries should be connected at this point, positive on the left The other relay labeled chassis has a red wire on the left and a black wire on the right. What is the voltage reading from ground to the 2 red wires on the left side of them? Get a reading when connected to shore power and when disconnect from shore power and post the readings. Rich. See you got a reading with the engine running. at the relays with the engine running and the engine stopped, what reading do you get?

Dean, The items that come to mind one should check. 1- Water pump drive belt and the spring load on the belt tension roller. 2- Possible defective thermostat, the portion that holds spring in place can fail. This can cause the temperature issue you are describing by restricting the flow coolant. When was the last time the system was flushed and the thermostat replaced ? Rich.

Frank, Welcome to the FMCA forum! Could you post he model and make of your charger / inverter for the group. Do the batteries charge while running the generator? That will aid in pinning down the electrical wiring and charging circuits. Rich.

Like Brett, I'm wondering about the numbers. Chassis manufactures and coach builders work to even out the load distribution. items like the Generator, Fresh water tank, Fuel tank are located more to the front. The black and gray tanks where likely empty and tend to be located over the rear along with the batteries, charger / inverter, transmission and engine. The rear axle and tag set up are hefty also. One would think the starting weight distribution would be quite good. Rich.

Planocat, The Shop is located in up state NY. Near Rochester. Jack's Repair Service, Scottsville, 585-538-2399. Jack Sr. is semiretired and Jack Jr. is the ramrod now. They do have a website with some additional information. 24 Hr. road service. Rich.

Brett. They replaced a access portion / disk of the lower casting is the only way I can describe it. The new part looked a little larger then the OEM one. Had a wide shoulder, that covers the casting area next to that opening. when it is driven in to the opening, with a sealant placed between it and the casting shoulder / opening. The material looks to be a heavier gauge. It basically seals the location that rusted out by covering the opening in the casting and the lip covers the shoulder that has a grove to hold the OEM part. He was working under there so I did not get any pictures. Think one could describe it as a modified OEM part. Sure looks like it will keep things sealed. The owners son said they have not had one leak that they are aware of going back about 10 years and the only compressors that have had the problem are the ones on motor coaches. He thinks its just the location and the way the engine is mounted backwards, exposing the area to more road dirt and salt spray. Rich.

Our OEM air compressor is now operational! I was sure that there was no way to make a good repair. Then last month during a nasty winter blow, I went back on the internet to do some serious shopping for parts and a service center. Shop listed by Cummins was 20 miles from the house. A small independent with good reviews. Called and explained my problem and what options where available. VERY big surprise, OH, no big deal have repaired an number of them. Can do it where is sets. Now this has to be interesting, So today he arrived with a part in hand, costing about 25.00. Crawled under the coach removed a cover for lack of a better word. cleaned things up. Put some sealant on the thing, hammered it into place( no easy task) and said start the engine and lets see how things look. No leak. Done a number of them and only on motor coaches. We have the part made up by one of the companies that rebuilds compressors for us. Asked about getting one as a spare, do not think so really if this last as long as the original setup thinking its not going to be an issue. The service call was a lot less then replacing everything and the pump looks like new. All in all a very good day and 78deg. Tomorrow night its going to snow again, but the coach can now leave the pad !!! Rich.