dickandlois

Highlander4744, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. When the jacks come down, are they coming down evenly? or is there a stagger of some kind? When the coach is on a level surface, can the Null point be celebrated according to the procedure? Are all the connections to the control module clean and tight? Did the problem happen all of a sudden or did it work erratically for a period of time? Rich.

CaptBMF, this is a link to the owners manual for the switch. http://www.parallaxpower.com/ATS/ATS5070_Owner_op_Manual.pdf\ This link pictures the internal wiring for the ATS- 50 series ATS, there are also images of a number of other ATS equipment. https://www.google.com/search?q=Parallax+Model+ATS+5070&biw=1366&bih=598&tbm=isch&imgil=tcpQt40_Sh0jXM%253A%253Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fencrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com%252Fimages%253Fq%253Dtbn%253AANd9GcSq1Wiy5q4KgcmBo_ZBLnTM-L3m7ZZ7RA9IibaQlJad6Xvg7-Co%253B617%253B473%253B8lRdvT1A7j19lM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.beamalarm.com%25252FDocuments%25252Fparallax_automatic_transfer_switch_ats-50_amp.html&source=iu&usg=__P4fB1e4I1pazxRrqUzwVGRNczgc%3D&sa=X&ei=JXBJU6_xJKmvsATQ64HwBA&ved=0CI4BEPUBMAs#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=tcpQt40_Sh0jXM%253A%3B8lRdvT1A7j19lM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.beamalarm.com%252Fimage%252Fats-50_schematic..jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.beamalarm.com%252FDocuments%252Fparallax_automatic_transfer_switch_ats-50_amp.html%3B617%3B473 Master Catalog for RV parts, might give you a starting point for many replacement parts. http://mastertech-inc.com/img/MasterTechCatalog3-08.pdf Rich.

Gary, sounds good to me. I sent you a PM with some additional information. Think if you can find the security control module, that we my be able to come up with a way to get them unlocked. Can go over the thought I have after you look things over in the morning. Rich.

Gary, Are the storage compartments that do not open in the same area / same side? Does the coach have pass through that opens on one side? Latch actuators / solenoids would need a 12 volt source to pull the release pins / bars, by chance is there any other 12 volt system / items that do not work? Rich. Edit, Does the coach have a Bay lock switch on the dash?

JaneSusan, Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! The confusion might be caused by the fact that for your model and year Coach there are 2 different plumbing drawings. One of files might answer the question. The plumbing in the area of the water heater does look different in the drawings, check page 7 in both files. Serial number ending in R1, Link http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/2013/13_d33c_plumb.pdf Serial number ending in R2, Link http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/2014/14_d33c_plumb.pdf Rich.

Sounds like the OP is describing a self resetting circuit breaker, that was installed / wired into the system. One needs a little more information regarding the systems current operating parameters. Sounds like a pressure issue and one needs more information on the range of the parameters. The AC unit compressor for the dash air is driven by a clutch system that is electrically controlled. The compressor clutch circuit is controlled by the on / off switch, temperature control, low limit switch pressure switch and the high pressure limit switch in most cases. The condenser system is cooled by air passing through as one drives down the road and is supplemented with a cooling fan mounted on condenser assembly to move air over / through the unit when the vehicle is not moving fast enough to properly cool it. This fan is thermally controlled and is wired parallel to the compressor circuit. The system stops when the pressure drops to low or gets to high. Generally a case of the system pressure. Loss of the condenser fan can cause pressure to exceed the high pressure limit! When the evaporator ices up air can not freely move over the area. Loss of cooling results. The drier assembly or the evaporator orifice can ice up if the pressures in the system are off. This causes a high or low pressure issue. The system shuts down until the blockage clears, the pressure balance returns and the system will run again.. It constantly cycles !!!! High humidity is an issue that can cause icing of the evaporator and or in the duct work. Quote: The ambient temp seems to be a factor in the frequency of the problem. A temperature drop of 15 to 20 degrees is normal, but as temperature rises the difference between outside temp and duct temp numbers will decrease at the outlets. Rich.

Herman, Your making me feel old ! Not that I'm not, just got here allot faster then I thought I would !! :D Rich.

Gerald, Well is not impossible, might be good to get a person you know that has charged there system to guide you through the process. The high and low pressure side valves are not the same size and one needs to know the difference. Buying the lowest priced filler / charging connection system can get one in trouble. They are not the most accurate reading gauges and over charging a system can get expensive. There are some subtle items one needs to take into account. The larger systems often need to be shut down during the charging process to allow the system to equalize 2 or 3 times to get a good charge in the systems. Knowing the low side pressure switch pressure point, that turns the system off and on is the key one. The high side pressure reading is only readable with professional type charging manifold systems. The other item you would not be able to do if needed, is to run a vacuum and pressure test on the system. Placing a thermometer into one of the AC outlets, with the system running at max cool and a temp reading of 55 to 60 degrees would be expected with an outside temperature of around 75 degrees. Not knowing what the system cycle time and discharge temperature are currently reading. I would NOT add more then 1 can watching for a temperature change, max. of 2 cans of freon to the system. If no cooling change is noticeable or measured ! Stop. Get some help. A shop that charges them, can go allot further instinctively. Rich.

Tim, Welcome to the FMCA forum. Good old 454's. Start by checking the vacuum advance unit mounted on the distributor. One needs to remover the Cap and the rotor to get a good look at at things, just be real careful not to pull off any of the plug wires if your not real familiar with the firing order of the cap connections. Then connect a section of vacuum hose to the vacuum assemble, located on the passengers side, right side of the distributor. Pull a vacuum with your mouth, does the rod inside the distributor move in and out? If not then the vacuum advance will not work. should everything work, then check the mechanical advance system. That is the system with the 2 springs one on each side are good and that the arms the springs are connected to mover freely in one direction and back again when released. A drop of oil at each pivot point is good job while the rotor is off. Post back your findings ! Should you not be familiar with this type system, seek some help. Rich.

Wellsie, Good feedback, and you are not in the wrong thread! Like Herman mentioned listen to where the noise might be coming from. Sure sounds like its the motor bearings, but the squirrel cage blower assemble might just need to be reset and tightened so it is not rubbing on the outer housing. That can make allot of noise. Rich.

Burt,Welcome to the FMCA forum ! The fact that the cable was free at the engine throttle connection and the accelerator peddle is hard to depress, sounds like you might have 2 issues in the throttle linkage. You mention the throttle cable is free at the engine, is it under spring tension that returns the cable to the idle setting freely ? Gummed up or rusty pivot points on the peddle and a gummed up throttle cable tension return spring issue on the throttle assembly. Rich.

wellsie, Welcome to the FMCA forum! Think you are referring to the dash heater. That being the case, there are hundreds of different styles and sizes. The problem is often the electrical wiring. Switch, resistor array, relay or fuse. So could you see if you can find some information regarding the blower motor. First some questions. Does the fan run on some speeds and not others? Then can you determine if the problem might be the speed selector switch? or the resistor array, generally in close proximity of the motor its self. The motors are frequently located on the passengers side behind the kick panel in front of the passenger seat or outside on the firewall passenger side. I will look and see if I might have some wiring information in the mean time. Rich.

Reading posts regarding air Filters is always interesting. I have used both oil and dry filters. The one item that gets over looked and misunderstood IMHO is how much oil one uses after cleaning K & N filters when recharging them. Many think more oil is better. With the advent of the Mass Air Flow Sensor, oil on the sensor can mess up the readings sent to the ECM. Along with the readings of the O-2 sensor(s) to control combustion. Engines are really big air pumps with a 13.7 to 1 ratio of fuel to air. With the advent of the ECM that number is being constantly tweaked, along with the Ethanol content sensor in the flex fuel engines. With the drive to get more HP from smaller engines Turbos are common, more air equals more particulates and they blast away turbo blade material that adds even more abrasive material going through the engines. Diesel engines live by the same rules. There are always trade offs. I remember when the Farm equipment used oil bathed filters and needed to be cleaned frequently, The dry filters of the day did not last long in the dust and organic matter flying around and engines just looked at some extra hydrocarbon as no real big deal.. Rich.

Lets Try the Max Force 6.4 L-V-8 engine. 230 HP @ 640 Ft Lbs of torque. They used the engine in the W 20D and 22D workhorse chassis around 2010. Look at this link. http://www.taigmarks.com/workhorse/wcc-2038/news_wire.html Rich.

Roger, Welcome to the FMCA forum ! You might try this link. They do not have the item listed, that you are looking for, but a phone call might be worth a try. http://colawrvsalvage.com/page/4/?post_type=product&product_cat=miscellaneous-rv-parts&s Rich.

FLNavyVet, Welcome to the Forum Also!! I will ditto Brett's response, regarding the ignition solenoid. They do fail and the fact that its 10 plus years old would be my first thought. Good part was that you where close to home and able to move safely off the road. Rich.

The damage caused by rodents of all kinds to the wiring and rubber tubing plus some other items in ones coach, towed and equipment can be costly and down right frustrating. Many of us have tried various items to deter them. I found this information and thought I would pass it along. TSB from Honda: rodent-deterrent tape, essentially an electrical tape treated with super-spicy capsaicin, which Honda describes as “the stuff that puts the fire in a bowl of five-alarm chili.” The tape (part number 4019-2317) is available through dealers for about $36 for a 20-meter roll, about 22 yards. You'll also find it online. They do mention using gloves when using it and that it also can bring tears to ones eye's. Rich.

Mike, What model Monaco do you have? Make and model of your leveling system? Rich.

JO1589, Welcome to the FMCA forum! There are few if any perfect solutions, regardless of what one buys. The fact that hindsight is generally 20 / 20, I have lamented some of my choices. Ford did replace the transmission, that kind of leads me to believe they accepted responsibility for a system that did not perform as advertised. It sounds like the car works well for you overall, how many miles you tow each year related to total millage driven is a factor. Selecting a vehicle to tow, one needs to prioritize items. Sometimes style, features, ergonomics and maintenance need to be place lower on the list. With all the current changes to Hybrid, Electric and Fuel cell that list is going to remain very fluid. The statement of buyer be where is always going to be true. Things change regardless of what was built and will be built in the future. It looks like many of the Electric / Hybrid systems will not lend themselves to flat towing. Currently that is not the market manufactures are looking to fill. Rich.

Pink Arnold, I change the coolant in my generator every 3 years and do not use extended life series. I do the same with my coach diesel, the engine in my coach is not the sleeved style block. So I do not have to watch the acid level as closely. Just change it on the same time frame and use the same coolant. Lets me see how dirty or clean the system is. Good steam cleaning of the radiator and CAC is 2 weeks away, just before the coach hits the road. Rich.

fnlatch, Reading over you post and the reply's. Sounds like you have covered the engine filter(s). You mentioned you drove over 1100 miles with no issues. Where there any grades or hills on that part of the trip? Stopped at the rest area and the steep driveway caused issue. Thinking, the small leak in regards to fuel can equal alot of air. Starting issues can pop up if air gets into the fuel line before the lift pump, a weak fuel pump will start the engine even with a low pressure if the fuel tank is full and setting above the lift pump. Low fuel pressure would cause power issues when a grade is encountered and the pump can not meet the fuel demand of the engine. The pump would be around 10 years old if is has never been replaced. How many miles on the engine? So, I would not rule it out. Generator fuel filter or the fuel pump also need to be in good condition. How many Hrs. on the gen set? The fuel lines can get soft and cause issues or develop leaks. Rich.

Tony, Welcome to the FMCA forum! The only way to miss the big apple traffic, is to run West of the city. Look at taking Rt. 81 North to Binghamton NY. then Rt 88 North east to Rt 90. Then run RT 87 North. You will run into some traffic around Albany NY area. Then one needs to decide whether to run the Mass. Pick, Rt. 90 East bypassing Boston. Best for large coach and towing a car. The other option is to run Rt 87 north and take some two lane roads East across, but they are not real friendly for large coaches and towing a car. Pretty drive, but slow and some narrow roads. Turns into a wondering, roundabout Rt. A number of Good North / South Rts. no real good roads running East and West, Hills and Mountains. Rich.

happybour, Got your PM regarding the way the system failed. Question, do you have just the one camera? The pattern you mentioned, sounds like a failed scan circuit, thing is it could be the monitor, if its a flat screen. Could you enlighten me regarding the weather conditions, was it fine and you just powered it up again, any noise in the picture before it went blank? There is always the possibility that you lost the power feed to the camera and that could be behind the camera at the back or up front at the monitor connection. It might prove helpful to see if there is a security company in your area that would check it out, they work with a number of different systems and doing a complete diagnostic remotely is difficult. Posting the model numbers, make and year of the equipment would be helpful. There might be others on the forum with matching equipment, along with suggestions. There is an answer in most cases and with enough feed back the answer could be a simple thing. so lets give it a shot. Rich.

Well, I went and looked at Brett's post and lost mine, so I will try again. LOL The fall off in Engine performance is generally do the a restriction in the fuel supply system, primarily the in line fuel filter. What was the condition of the oil and its age. Had it been in the engine for an extended period. When was the last time the person did drive the coach. I have no information on brand of oil filters causing an oil pressure issue, for sure a dirty / restricted filter would have an affect. Will quiz some of my gear head friends that are into Mud trucks and some serious Street Rods if they have noticed any issues with filters. Rich.

rsbilledwards, The connection / connector in question is a sensor. It senses the battery temperature / voltage for the 458 and that information sets the charging rate and float level. You will need to get a new sensor cable and it looks like a phone connection at the charger. Rich.