dickandlois

nelsokelso, Google isolation mounts rubber, to see what is available. Need to consider the weight of the unit and the clearance around it. You need to keep it mounted so there is good air flow and rubber mounts should provide a reduced noise level inside the coach and out, but you will still hear it. The fact that the lamination material (glue) has failed on the main transformer will sure cause them to buzz. Thing is they will continue to work for a long time. Rich.

nelsokelso, How is it mounted and where? The buzzing can be acoustically coupled if the unit is fastened directly to an interior surface and if installed in a bay close to one of the supports for the floor or wall. I need to look up some information on your unit to see if there might be a software issue. Rich. No, Software up date information listed on line. The RS 2000 has been discontinued, the RS 3000 is the only unit that has the same functions that where in the RS 2000.

tsheppard1958, Welcome to the FMCA forum! Are you looking for the electrical or the air valve and air spring system information? Is the air ride working? Or is the dump system preventing it from inflating? Rich.

OEM alternator, could mean the brush's are bad. Check for alternator exciton voltage at alternator when ignition key is in start position, have a tech check it if you are a person who works on your own equipment. Voltage output for an alternator is between 13.5 to 14.5 volts, when the batteries are at or near full charge. Like Brett mentioned, belt issues! Might be time for a new or rebuilt alternator. Rich.

GConnor, Welcome ! Can you get some light in the area and use an inspection mirror to see if there are some hidden numbers? The other option might be an inspection camera, if you know a mechanic that has one to get a look around the area. Google - Dorman RV windshield wiper parts, and see if anything looks close to yours. Rich.

Frank, Glad you have got things working! When you get the new coach, the fun will start all over! Rich.

Frank, From your information regarding the voltage dropping to 2 volts from the coach batteries. One would think there is a defective Counter EMF diode in the wiring between the relay actuation 12 volt supply and the switch? A resistance reading between the fuse and the 12 volt connection at the battery (12 volt wire removed at the battery post )might give you the same reading both ways and a resistance of between 30 and 40 K ohms. Didoes are nice devices, but when they fail and there is no information regarding their presents, it can become a hair pulling experience. Do you measure 12+ volts at the rocker switch from the coach 12.5 volts? If not then the culprit could be between the fuse and the switch. You could read the voltage at the fuse coming from the battery, think you mentioned it was low in a previous post? In that case its in the main wiring harness between the coach batteries and the coach builders fuse. Thing is its working, but if the current solution causes some strange problems down the road you might consider adding a diode to the supply side of the switch. Needs to be installed in the proper orientation to work! My instincts tell me one thing and the math says something else,regarding the resistance reading I think you would get; so I will need to ponder the thought a little more. Rich. A resistance of 7 ohms, with a current of 1.5 amps would drop the voltage to 2 volts. So a bad connection / splice or corroded connection could be the culprit. That would mean a power drop of 15 watts. Something should be a little on the warm side!

Frank, Running is a good start ! Look at this link, and see if the manual matches you unit. closest I could come to your model number. http://www.cumminsonan.com/www/pdf/manuals/965-0530.pdf If it does, look a section 6-page 11 that section covers the governor. The manual is 120 pages. Rich.

nor1821. I do not consider myself an expert regarding the AGM style batteries. They do not require adding water, That fact means that there is also no problem with acid damage to the terminal connections, often last 10 years or more. The primary down side is, your charger needs to be programmable to properly charge them and if they are over charged (top high a volt) and the water in the cells, if lost, can not be replaced. The difference in the amp hr. rating is not as big a problem with the advent of LED lighting. Lighting is / was the biggest continuous load. Home style refrigerators in coaches often require adding 2 to 4 more batteries and one seldom uses a convection / microwave using the inverter foe extended periods of time with out running the generator. A new all electric coach and all bets are off. IMHO! Rich.

One needs to look for a loaded type antenna, the length of the antenna for channel 19 is 11.027 meters. Just not practical. Call Winnebago and ask who's antenna they installed or used, then you could get the length of the missing wipe. A straight wire length. 1/8th. wave=54.28165in. 1/16th. wave=27.1385in. 1/32th. wave=13.5677 That would not be as effective as a (K-40) style antenna with a short wipe. Rich.

Ford Spark Plug issues. Replacing spark plugs has been a no-brainer for most passenger vehicles for, say, the last 100 years. But for millions of owners of V8-powered Fords from the 2004 to 2008 model years, a spark-plug change can lead to an expensive, hours-long ordeal. Why? Because the original spark plugs can weld themselves to the cylinder head and break into pieces when someone tries to unscrew them, leaving the bottom of the plug stuck inside the cylinder head. Fishing out the broken section requires special tools and a trained technician. The engines in question are three-valve V8s, mostly 4.6- and 5.4-liter powerplants, found in many Ford Explorers, Explorer Sport Tracs, Expeditions, and F-Series pickups, and Mustangs, Mercury Mountaineers, and Lincoln Navigators and Mark LTs. At the heart of the problem is a unique Motorcraft spark plug with a two-piece metal shell that’s vulnerable to corrosion over time and to breaking apart on removal. The original service interval was 100,000 miles, meaning that the first recommended service would take place long after the vehicle’s basic warranty expired. Ford has known about this problem for a long time, and in 2008 issued an 11-page technical service bulletin (TSB 08-7-6) with exacting instructions for handling three different ways technicians could expect the spark plugs break on removal. Visit our guide to car maintainence. A further aggravation is that mechanics can’t predict how long the service will take. Anywhere from none to all eight plugs could shatter, running the bill to many hundreds of dollars. If things really go wrong, it could mean removing or replacing one or both cylinder heads, which can run to thousands of dollars. In the meantime, Motorcraft, Ford’s parts brand, has designed a one-piece spark plug that’s less likely to fall apart. If you own one of these vehicles, you should certainly demand the most up-to-date plug. Our technical advisers say it’s also a good idea to have the plugs changed every 30,000 miles, regardless of what the owner’s manual may say, even if they’re the newer type. Since this is a known problem related to what we see as a design defect, we think Ford should cover this service under an extended warranty. It’s not fair to make consumers pick up the tab for a known defect. —Seung Min Yu and Gordon Hard Rich.

The first Class C coach we owned used a 25 gal. water tank and a small air compressor to force water to the shower and sink. Think one could install a similar system to supplement to water supply and limit the pump running time. The size of the tank ? , but one built for holding water under pressure. Air pressure would need to be set lower then the water pump pressure using a pressure switch (PPV) on the air pump circuit or an air tank. Add solenoid that opens to vent the secondary water tank when the water pump is running. Also think one would need to install a fluid sensor / float switch in the tank to close the vent valve and allow the water pumps internal pressure switch to turn off the water pump at its preset pressure level. Some fine tuning would be required, but I think it would be doable. Thing is you would still hear a air pump running if an air tank of limited size was used. One might be able to mount an air pump in a location that would not be as noisy inside the coach. Rich. PPV=Preset pressure valve.

Florida Room 5, Welcome to the FMCA forum! Besides going a little slower up the steeper grads. You will be driving a high profile vehicle so it will handle differently in cross winds. Slow down and learn how the coach drives. As you become familiar with how wind affects the way it handles it will be less stressful. It will take some time if you have never driven a larger truck or delivery van. Rich.

f3001359, The auto reset fuse / breaker should be 20 amps. There is a 5 amp fuse in the control circuit. it could be located behind the switch panel (inline). the control modules are not that big. Often under the bed or near the table area. I do not know where it is hiding, but a call to Fleetwood with the coach Fin number should solve that problem and you might ask where the 5 amp fuse is located also. Rich.

Redstatelefty, Welcome to the FMCA forum! You might go to this link and ask for the wiring, plumbing and other files covering your coach. You could also call 1-800-537-1885 for some help. http://www.winnebagoind.com/resources/manuals/ Copy of owners manual link. http://www.winnebagoind.com/resources/manuals/pdfs/Operator2004/04Journey.pdf Section2- Page 23 of the Owners Manual pictures the system in one of the storage areas. Rich.

f301359, Welcome to the FMCA forum. Could you post the numbers printed on the slid-out control panel. Verify that your slide out control system was built by Power Gear or some other manufacture. Also post any numbers that are listed in the slide out information supplied in the owners folder. Rich.

rotomas, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! I have used a wooden dowel and a small hose clamp to keep the line(s) from leaking. Could you post if your Generator is gas or Diesel for the forum group. Along with the model number. There might be a solution to your problem before you go to pulling it out. Rich.

Frank, Sounds like the needle valve in the Carburetor is stuck. happens when they set with no fuel / stable in the bowel. Fuel should try to work its way into the carburetor. Just let it set, then keep trying to get it to run. Once that happens, keep an eye on the carburetor for leaking fuel. stop the engine and let it set some more, things could just clean them selves with time. See if the problem will clear before getting into the carb. Rich.

bruceea, Welcome to the FMCA forum. The reference to poor braking with hydraulic brakes, might have been the fact that when the fluid gets hot there is more brake fade. One has to remember that all braking systems will experience brake fade as things heat up. Just need to keep from over driving the brakes! Going to fast down hill is not a situation anybody wants to be in. Brett, Should the owner live in the North East, the entire braking system should be done yearly; if your chasing the best snow for snowmobiling and skiing. They just love salt in this part of the country !!! Rich.

Roger, It was just a thought, but the other item I was thinking about. We often spend time considering a number of issues concerning what tires are best suited for each coach. Should we consider how different tires on our towed vehicle respond when being towed versus being driven. We often load them with items and the weight could very considerably from the weight when being driven. Rich.

Frank, sounds like a gummed up carburetor, spray just a little starting fluid into the air cleaner. then try cranking the engine. It may fire and run just a few seconds, repeat the process. Should it start and keep running keep a close eye on the area of the carburetor. If fuel is running out of it stop the engine. Let it set for a time, like and hr or so. restart the engine. Repeat the cycle 3 or 4 times. them when you get time add a good carburetor cleaner to the gas tank. That should clean the varnish and gummy material from the carburetor and float. Post the results. Rich.

Frank, got to say that is strange, you mentioned removing the Body Builder fuse removed the parasitic load from the Coach batteries. Even thought the fuse is in a fuse box under the dash. 1.5 amps is going somewhere! The fact that it is loading the coach batteries, would make one think something related to the coach circuits.. Do you have power operated steps / and do the coach and chassis disconnect relays still work? Rich.

Wellsie, Could you post the numbers found on the part and any other information for the group. You could give Monaco a call and see if they have some additional information, they might be able to provide information on who the supplier was. Posting a picture might help to identify the manufacture also ! Rich.

The Old way to calculate ones speed, is to use the mile markers along the road. When the road has them. Watch the second hand of your watch, as you pass one note the second hand location at the next marker read the time is seconds. Then use time in seconds divided into 3600 55 seconds / into 3600= 65.4545 MPH----- 60 seconds / into 3600=60.0 MPH Do the Speedometer and the Odometer match the mile post points and the speed calculated. Handy should one loose that part of the instrument panel and the tachometer is still running. I do use a GPS now days, but nice to have a backup. Rich.

Frank, The fuse labeled "Body Builder Access Feed (run only)" Thinking it powers the monitoring system / the battery disconnect circuits and LP detector plus a few others. Looking for item(s) that do not operate. is one way too narrow it down. The other tool you could look into is a circuit tracer. They work well for finding where the wires run between too points. They come in a wide price range. The tone generator, puts a tone on the wire and the level needs to be adjusted lower to narrow down the exact wire; by using the receiver portion. Lowe's has them and you can search the web for circuit tracers to get an idea of the price range and even look at a user manual(s) on line (with Make and model)to find one you feel will work. It takes time and a learning curve, but one can get very good at finding circuits with practice. Rich.