dickandlois
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Posts posted by dickandlois
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375818, Have you applied some grease to the shaft and gear that engages with the multiplier drive gear that connects to the flywheel? the mentioned gear is built into an area next to and to the side of the engine flywheel.
This setup requires less torque from the starter to turn the engine. Different setup on an Onan engine. You did mention you have a Kubota engine. They require more engine oil then the Onan and the cooling fan setup is more like that of cars and trucks.
Not hearing a thump sound when the starter spins up could indicate a winding or brush issue regarding the starter motor.
Starters used are Bendex and Mitsubishi, depending on the engine builder.
Rich.
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1 hour ago, wolfe10 said:Assume you have reached in and turned the motor over by hand to insure that it is not locked up (VERY rare).
Also, with the starter out, check the teeth of flywheel.
Ditto: Brett!
Rich.
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This link is offered so members can get needed help directly from Cummins Onan for their Generator. The link connects to a home page with good information on most models. along with a contact number if you require more detailed information. There are charges for parts and the manuals.
LINK https://www.cumminsonanstore.com/index.asp
Please use this information. Do not request help with generator issues here-- I have asked the moderator to LOCK this thread.
For help with your Onan issues, please make start a new thread.
Rich.
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9 hours ago, DBenoit said:Rich, Where did you get that parts list? I want to see if I can get one for my model.
Nice breakdown. And the KaboatO........
David
Think I got lucky one day while looking for something else. Glad it looks like something you might like to have.
Regarding the Kabota Engines. Think There might be one for the engine used on the 10 and 12 KW units on file? Will take a look between projects. Give me a day or 2.
Rich.
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2 hours ago, manholt said:Bill is correct..Cummins/Onan is the same and most have Kabuto engine!
Carl, The Kabuto Engines are in the 10 and 12 KW generators.
The QD, Onan Diesel engine is in the 6 to 8 KW generators.
Rich.
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More info: 7.5 KW quiet diesel HDKAJ Spec "J" 2005 model.
OEM Part number for starter is 191-2200 Replacement part is close to 300.00 with tax. They do not fail very often.
When the helper returns to help read the starter voltage. That information would be helpful when posted.
The attached PDF files are repair and parts lists
Rich.
981-0200C Onan HDKAJ HDKAK (spec A-F) HDKAT (spec A-B) Genset Parts Catalog (07-2001).pdf Onan_6000_8000__Service_Manual-981-0522B.pdf
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On 3/6/2020 at 9:10 PM, WILDEBILL308 said:You shouldn't have any problem. Make shure you have a good auxiliary braking system for your toad.
Bill
Bill, shure like the microphone company or sure, meaning confident ?
My question is what is the total CCC for the coach and what is the average load. Can run with little or no water and with the Black and Gray tanks empty to get some extra head room.
Rich.
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8 minutes ago, dhealey said:Wow, you people can get off topic. The question was "Does anyone manufacture a electric auto that is towable"? Nothing to do about Canadian laws, hybrids, etc. I'm going to go with a no answer at this time.
No one that I know of because of the electric motors that recharge the battery when the brakes are applied.
Think the big issue is setting up the wiring to keep from damaging the motor(s), with them turning with no place to dump the current being generated.
Like DD Mentioned, he pulls his electric car on a trailer.
Rich.
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David, Living way up North. One should keep the fuel tank full to reduce the water condensation.
Glad it is running now with no error codes.
Rich.
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21 minutes ago, DBenoit said:I might just do that after a few checks this afternoon. The maintenance is due at 150 hrs, so imma close.
David
David! 140 Total hrs. ?
How long did the coach set before you started the generator?
With the fuel tank that low, it could have taken a few try's to re prime the fuel line. When you hold the stop side of the switch down, does the fuel pump ? That is the way most of the Onan units prime the system.
Did it run fine after it started? and was it under load?
Rich.
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5 hours ago, naterrt said:Hi I'm fairly new to the forum but the few times of used it I've got an excellent help from all the members. My 1997 Hawkins motorhome sprung multiple leaks from my radiator. I had been losing coolant slowly since Idaho and could not find the leak I pulled over to get a snack and it was pouring out from the top near I guess where the tank connects and also multiple pin holes throughout the radiator itself. it never ran hot which I'm grateful for but now I am in dire need of finding a radiator shop near Columbia or in Columbia that can help me. My Hawkins is built on a Gillig bus frame with a caterpillar 3176 side radiator. roadside assistance towed me to a diesel mechanic in Columbia but I'm not sure if he knows much if anything about motorhomes in general, but especially radiators, and I am in need since I have three kids and live in it full time. I'm a disabled veteran on a fixed income and I know it will cost me a pretty penny to have it repaired but I am asking anyone for advice to a good shop that's trustworthy and does quality work.
You Might try this location. They mention working on a number of items including military equipment. Never have used them, but they are close to you./
1-800-RADIATOR OF COLUMBIA
145 MCLEOD ROAD
COLUMBIA, SOUTH CAROLINA 29203
Phone: (803) 691-1212
Alt. Phone: (800) 248-8720
Fax: (866) 814-9729Description
Discount Car Radiators for Sale in Columbia1-800-RADIATOR OF COLUMBIA is part of the radiator.com franchise that offers discount direct-to-customer sales of automobile radiators. This warehouse is located in the middle of the state with easy access to major highways, which enables the quick delivery of South Carolina orders. Ken Holloway owns this Columbia facility, which opened on May 15, 2006. Free telephone support is available to assist car owners who need help replacing a radiator. Our technicians can lead you through the process one step at a time. Keep yourself and your family safe and secure and replace radiators when they fail. Repaired radiators have weakened components, and run an increased risk of future failures. Nobody wants to end up stranded on the side of the road waiting for a tow truck, and South Carolina's hot summer days make the situation even more unpleasant and potentially dangerous.Columbia is home to the main campus of the University of South Carolina, and many of its more than 30,000 students are on a limited budget. These students appreciate a bargain and tend to buy used cars, which often need repairs. 1-800-RADIATOR OF COLUMBIA is here to help. Find high-quality replacement radiators for sale at a low, low price. Fort Jackson, which is located on the eastern boundary of Columbia, is another site of budget-minded people. This major Army training base houses soldiers who purchase older cars to use during their temporary assignment. 1-800-RADIATOR OF COLUMBIA helps to keep our military forces on the road when broken radiators stop them in their tracks.Radiator.com is an international distribution network of OEM-style auto radiators with lifetime warranties. Centrally located warehouses ensure fast delivery of replacement radiators, and customers often receive the part the same day it's ordered.1-800-381-3688Rich.
Spartan RV Chassis is located in Spartanburg SC
Frightliner RV Chassis is located in Gaffney SC
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17 minutes ago, flyingtrout said:I have a 2015 Fleetwood Providence. I have the 400D Aqua Hot. On the electric side, hot water and electric heat to Zone 3 work fine. When engaging the Burner Switch, light comes on, blower comes on, however, I do not hear ignitors, no smoke from the exhaust and no smell of diesel.
After about 30 seconds the light goes out on the Burner Switch. I would surmise, that with no ignition (popping sound) and/or smell of diesel, this may be electrical. I am getting ready to take to dealer, any last minute suggestions. Tank is full, there are no red lights on the panel.Thanks
Think the first item would be a good cleaning, Fuel filter(s) Igniter checked.
Rich.
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You have other priorities at the time. Be safe working on the task at hand.
You have had more then your share of rain this year.
Farmers are and have always been challenged by the weather !
Rich.
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I did not see a picture yet?
Did the information I sent regarding the condition of the Solenoid, is well with in the operating parameters using the resistance and voltage readings you sent.
The chassis wiring shows the power for the front board you repaired, is supplied by a 150 amp auto rest circuit breaker located in the rear of the coach on the Engine Control panel.
My last post listed the wire size and gauge of the wire running between the engine control panel and the front fuse panel.
Remember a drawing is a representation of a circuit, not how items are or where they are attached.
Rich.
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On 3/5/2020 at 6:41 PM, fountaincharles2 said:The resistance for the small red wire to ground is 2 ohms, and the resistance between the 2 coil terminals is 4 ohms. The voltage at the switch where the purple connects is 13.6. I noticed that on your PM explanation you made mention of the Peach colored wire(with inline fuse) sticking out of the ignition socket. Not sure if I pointed out that that wire was only left there since I used it to jump that socket when the Coach died two years ago and I needed to get the Coach back home to work on it. I had the Board out to install the new Sockets and Relays.
Thanks for the numbers ! Wit that information. The current draw of the Solenoid is around 3.5 amps and the power / wattage is between 40 and 50 watts. That is well with in the size of a 7 amp fuse used on many solenoids used in on the board. That fuse is pictured on the drawing picturing the part in question. The numbers indicate that the Solenoid in question is good, When it is Cold. The fact that everything works when cool or cold something is changing with temperature .
FYI, the 50 amp circuit auto rest circuit breaker. is powered from a 150 amp circuit located on the rear run box. The wire is red in color and 2 gauge, that powers the front fuse box . It is looking like there is strong evidence of a loose connection in the ground connection for the fuse box and / or even in the red wire supplying power from the fuse in the rear run box mentioned above , But you did measure 12 volts at one end of the fuse. There is a possibility that 50 amp auto reset circuit breaker has failed. Remove the end closest to the CB. see if you still have 12 volts at both ends of the unit.( Lower left corner. it looks like it is held in place by nuts and washers, between the supply and the wire powering the Solenoid ).
Intermittent problems are so difficult to find !!!!
There are 3 -150 amp fuses in the same area. The other 2 supply power to the preheat-er grids in the intake manifold. The engine intake manifold heater supply wires are Red - 6 gauge
The ground connection for the front fuse box , Could share a common ground point in the rear run box area, But I have to believe the front fuse box ground is closer - like a common ground point behind and under the dash.
No luck yet finding information on the front fuse box circuit board.
Rich.
Yesterday I was able to contact the Technical section of the REV group and got a better PDF file. With that information I will try to contact them again and ask for some info on where the front fuse box ground might be located. There is a ground ring on all 4 of the circuits, but it does not indicate on the drawing where the 4 grounds are really located.
That kind of leaves it open to the possibility that all the grounds are closer to the items powered by the larger 12 volt cables. There is allot of steel frame work to connect the grounds to.
Is it possible to forward some pictures of the backside of the board you posted earlier?
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1 hour ago, fountaincharles2 said:Rich, can't get to your PM. The email that you used wont' come in on the desktop that I am using. Use "fountaincharles2@gmail.com" and re-transmit the PM please. I tried to delete the other fountaindavid...email from FMCA forum, but can't find it in my Profile. Meanwhile, I'm will get DW to go out to the garage and assist me in talking the measurements that you asked about. Thanks.
Information sent! As requested.
Rich.
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9 minutes ago, manholt said:Just trowing something out...you mentioned Lift Pump. Could it be a bad controller? Or lose wire at that junction?
Good Morning Carl! Could be, bur with out power to a number of circuits on the Front fuse panel, that is an item to check after the fuse box has 12 volts to all the fused circuits. His fuse box has around 33 fuses.
Dave did mention that all the Spade style fuses checked good.
With heat damage too 3 relays and the sockets like 3 years ago, something caused it and they where replace. Everything work fine until now. When the coach set over night everything worked fine in the AM and he was able to drive on home. Just hate intermittent issues. When things work the only thing you have working for you is, just bumping the right spot or wiggling the right wire.
Rich.
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Dave,
Sent you a PM this AM with a PDF file I created that might help trace the circuit. Still not sure where the real issue is. Heat, component, loose connection or a fuse issue.
Rich.
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3 hours ago, fountaincharles2 said:That is a good point. There could possibly be a situation at that point. That panel has to get a ground from some place. Glad you thought of that little noticed switch. Thanks.
Dave,
The switch ground is at the Board picture you attached . You need to see if you read resistance from the point the purple would normally attach. Measure the resistance of the red wire to ground on the other terminal. Then read the resistance between the 2 coil terminals.
Second . the power is supplied through the purple from the switch you located. Should read around 12 volts DC at the switch and the wire located in the fuse box. When the sw is toggled, you will need a helping hand unless you have very long and flexible arms. LOL
Let me know what the reading are!
You are holding up very well at getting through the task.
Rich.
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19 minutes ago, fountaincharles2 said:Rich, I have a copy of the Coach Manual that came with the Coach. Sorry I didn't mention it earlier, but I initially thought the Manual you were talking about was a Service Manual. I don't have Word, but can get it.
With respect to the earlier question I had with respect to the Starter Solenoid, as I recall from a previous starting problem, when the starter solenoid wouldn't engage due to a loose wire, the dash panel did show lights as well as the tranny panel. That was several years ago. So, I may have answered my own question relative to the actual starter solenoid. My particular Coach may not be wired so as to kill all of the power if that solenoid were to cause a problem. Just trying to eliminate the Solenoid as a culprit.
Dave, There is a Switch mixed together with the Entry step that controls power the the Solenoid in question near the entrance . 3 position switch that has a center off position . On / off/ on.
Where is that one set. one position should feed 12 volts to energize the solenoid in question.
Just make sure it is not touching a ground. with that you should be able to read 12 volts on what they mention as being purple in color that completes / energizes the circuit to ground.
Some info on page 307 covers the item in question. Not much technical info though!
Rich.
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8 hours ago, hermanmullins said:Is it possible that the fuel valve is shutting off when it gets too hot?
Herman
Herman, Loss of power to the ignition system and accessories could also be killing power to the fuel lift pump. There are about 38 circuits powered from the front fuse box and none of them are bad according to Dave. There is a manually operated switch in the circuit that is in question. Hope Dave gets back to me.
Rich.
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Dave,
I put together some information on the electrical issue you are dealing with .
Have been experiencing an error when trying to convert it to a PDF file. As soon as I figure out the unlisted error code I will convert it.
Do you have Microsoft Word software loaded on your computer? The file is currently in that format.
There is some interesting items to check. I just hope the file helps understand what might be happening.
Rich.
Note! sent a copy a link that will slow you to get a copy of the owners manual for your coach. But you have not accessed it yet. So I will attach a link here.
https://www.monacocoach.com/resources/media/manuals/2002_Diplomat.pdf
It is a large file and it might take sometime to download.
Rich.
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43 minutes ago, fountaindavid.jean said:Outside temp....It probably was about 50 degrees or so. About 4 pm. No sure what the temp of the Board was. But it is in a closed environment. None of the dash wiring was hot nor the ignition key wiring.
Thanks Dave! Think we can put that part on the back shelf for now. Wondering if the problem could be in the circuit that supplies power to the energize the coil that closes the continuously energized coil. Sometimes engineers design the supply circuit voltage to decrease, once the item is in the latched mode to reduce the hear generated in the coil? Sometimes the solution is not a straight line.
As I mentioned to Brett, I do not have the wiring PDF's , but have some pictures of the wiring PDF files. Better then nothing. The information is hard to read, like the part number you corrected for me.
You can test that thought with a meter, but the problem might be in the wiring running from that 50 amp Auto reset circuit breaker. You did mention you had power at the fuse in question. Could be a loose connection between it and the contact terminal on the board feeding the solenoid, on the board. Thick it was Carl that questioned that short and (maybe 2 gauge wire between the board terminal ) . So check the crimp connections with an Ohm meter to see if it is one of the crimps is loose or the wire is at fault !
Nothing like long distance trouble shooting ! LOL
Rich.
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Thanks for the correct number and Yes it is a key power connection for the circuits that are loosing power. The trick is to find out why. The solenoid could be the issue when it heats up, but I do not want you to go out and find a replacement yet.
What was the outside ambient temperature around the time it failed /meaning the board?
Rich
Onan 7.5 kw genset starter problem
in Electrical
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This is the style that is listed for the 7500 series QD. It is much bigger then the one you pictured.
Rich.