dickandlois
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Posts posted by dickandlois
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Richard what is behind the cover? Cam lock key cylinder? The width dimension is not really readable. Looks very much like an old exterior single outlet box cover.
Would something like this replace the current style cover?
There are key cylinder systems that hold this cover securely in place.
Rich.
OH! The patent date for the cover was 1965 !
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2 hours ago, jsuth6@sbcglobal.net said:Has anyone had windshield breakage issues? I have a 2008 Tiffin Open Road with a front engine diesel. I have talked to Tiffin on 3 occasions and there are no recalls. But was told it was because of the curved wrap around windshields used back then. I called Freightliner and they had not heard of any issue like mine. I am getting ready to replace the 4th windshield ( the first was 6 years after purchase - now it seems like almost every trip I make). Any tips?
Welcome to the FMCA Forum!
You might want to check the stabilizer bolt bushings for damage! One can crack the windshield when trying to level the coach. Any kind of damage or loose parts in the front stabilized will allow for some twisting action on the chassis.
Learned that one the hard and expensive way! We all tend to learn something new the longer we travel and drive around in motor homes.
Rich.
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Steve, Welcome to the FMCA Forum!
might try, https://rvcomponents.visonerv.com/cgi-bin/md/M1423/s14.pl
This might help, http://fwc.fleetwoodrv.com/plant91Files/empart files/Atwood Jacks.pdf
This PDF File might prove helpful. https://comnet2.newmarcorp.com/instance1env99newmar/html/images/BLTN009P.pdf
Rich.
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Griffin3,. Welcome to the FMCA Forum !
The problem that I am having is that the tail lights through the harness are very dim, no where near as bright as the lights when the truck is providing the power to the lights.
Direction of current flow through the diodes to the load.
Output to load is the Cathode_ banded end ----{<--- The input voltage goes the anode.
Installing them in the wrong orientation will make for dim lights. The wrong orientation can cause a number of issues depending on what type / or the circuit function.
Power in at this end
Load end. Lights, fan or relays.
Rich.
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2 hours ago, Dschuelke said:no, there is a separate unit bolted to the frame in front under the radiator in a miserable spot to get at. it has lines from the master cyc. and lines from the power steering pump. it looks like it was designed by mickey mouse and put in a place only he could get at. it is called the proportioning valve in the factory manual. I don't have a picture of it or I would post it.
This is a link to a shop service manual for the P-30 Chassis with a 454 - 7 L engine that might give you some helpful information.
Section 3 page 43 is where the manual starts to explain how the power steering system works and Section 6 page 73 is where the brake system operation and plumbing system starts to explain how the vacuum and hydro boost systems work. Also should give you information on maintenance.
Appendix section A Page 217 is where the belt information is found.
The manual index starts at page 285.
https://www.gmcmi.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/P30-Chassis-Manual.pdf
Rich.
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Arbitrarily, the Chassis batteries run down in the course of less than 8 hours to 3 VDC, according to the Water & Battery display panel
Andy, Is there a Generator auto start setup? There are few items that could pull down the chassis batteries that fast. Now ! having said that does the coach have something like this?
https://shop.findmyrvparts.com/monaco-rv-battery-maintainer-LE-415-p/le-415.htm
Rich.
Andy, Forgot to ask the Model number of your inverter, where it is located and if it happens only when stored?
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On 12/15/2019 at 5:14 PM, dfj1115 said:Looking for a replacement to my le 415 battery maintainer does anyone have any ideas
Is this what you are looking for?
https://shop.findmyrvparts.com/monaco-rv-battery-maintainer-LE-415-p/le-415.htm
These units have large high current diodes inside that fail. I had one fail on a Gas unit and there was no way to stop the engine because of a 4th. wire on that unit. The unit pictured in the link would match The picture offered by Joe L.
Rich.
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On 12/14/2019 at 8:18 AM, jasonkangas said:Got headlights but nothing else. 1993 E350 four winds.
Fuses are good. I've read bad grounds to wheel tilt, to rodents to corroded connections on bulb to switch in steering column.
I understand the basics but not sure which one to troubleshoot first.
Seems to me if everything but the headlights might narrow the search, any suggestions?
Ps , I know t j.g e rodent might be an issue because my ratter dog was going nuts for a bit under the front of vehicle. It could be my well meaning dog also grabbed a wire or two.
Need some clarification !
You posted that the engine Starts. That makes one think your issue is the Turn signal circuit or maybe the 4 way flasher's not working.
When the headlights are on do you have marker lights ?
Will just the marker / clearance lights when the switch is not all the way on in the headlight possession?
Do you have have 4 way flasher's?
There is a flasher unit like a (552 flasher) in the turn signal circuit and also in the 4 way signal circuit. What is buzzing the flasher unit(s) or a relay related to the circuit?
Rich.
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SACIL
This is a good link to get information covering your model coach. The model year falls into a 5 year gap in information.
it would help if you could add all and any information about your slide system included in the owners information file that was included with the coach.
http://www.visualsc.com/myMH.pdf
If you don't feel comfortable down loading the info this is a copy of the pdf file .
Rich.
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57 minutes ago, deanknutson said:I have a 2008 Winnebago Destination with the kwikee leveling system. One rear and one front jack will creep down 1/2 inch during storage, enough to set off the alarm. Hitting the all up button will retract the jacks and good to go, however the jacks will creep down when I am driving and set off the alarm. It takes about 3-4 hours for the jacks to creep far enough to set off the alarm. I am wondering if this could be the jacks that are allowing the bypass or the pump? How do I trouble shoot to determine? A second problem is the Auto Level button will not activate the system, I have to use the manual level buttons. Could this be a problem with control panel or could this all be related?
Dean, Welcome to the FMCA Forum!
The best starting point might be to check out this U-Tube video and watch the last portion on how to navigate there web sight to get some documentation that covers your system. The link is very basic and leans more to parts, but the last portion offers info on the use of there web sight to find files.
link--
Rich.
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8 hours ago, Bvbh said:****, I know this has been discussed in the past. I've read most that I have found but......
Onan RV QG 5500... it sat over a year. It cranks when start button is pushed. What I've done:
New plugs. Confirmed fuel pump is working. Primed bowl and checked fuel by draining it from bottom of the bowl, it's clean. Tried carb cleaner. Tried compressed air to clear any debris. Fully charged batteries and made sure connections are clean and tight. Air filter is new and clean. Oil is clean and topped off.
Now, when I try starting fluid it starts right up and runs till the starting fluid is gone, but it will not start otherwise. It just cranks.
It has just over 100 hours on it.
Any other ideas??? Thanks so much!
Thinking the fuel supply solenoid is not working. It is the silver looking unit,that has the 2 white wire plug and is screwed into the altitude adjustment. The solenoid valve seat is stuck in the seat. Remove it and sock the threaded end in some carburetor cleaner. With an ohm meter read the resistance across the 2 pins.
When you try to start the engine do you read 12 volts between the 2 pins that connect to the solenoid?
Rich.
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14 minutes ago, sunlover19 said:Can you use a standard pressure relief valve from home depot or Lowes or is there a difference between home or RV ones, current one shows 150 psi /210 degree rating.
This is the standard set for the pressure release valves on hot water heaters.
Pressure Relief Settings Questions regarding relief valve settings frequently come up. For some years, 125psi was the standard setting. Today 150psi is considered the standard. The history of the 125psi setting stems from a water heater standard which formerly stated that the working pressure of the water heater tank would be designated at 42% of the test pressure. As most heaters were tested at 300psi, the working pressure figured out to 127psi. Thus, the 125psi valve became the standard setting. However, the water heater standard was changed to allow the working pressure to be 50% of the test pressure, resulting in the change to a pressure relief setting of 150psi. Under no circumstances should the relief valve setting of the valve exceed the working pressure of the tank, as this would violate all heater warranties and codes.
Rich.
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12 hours ago, RLS7201 said:OK Rich, I see no facts in your post, only ambiguous comment.
Please explain what software, how it reacts and what issues one would expect..
How would one know which charger ignores external or internal load changes? Who would we
Richard
Richard, The software varies with each manufacture it is loaded into a ROM type device. As mentioned in OP, some smart chargers see phantom loads or Engine ECM and other devices that need power all the time to maintain stored preset information. When that happens many smart chargers will stop charging and issue a defective battery warning. They are not always that smart!
OK Rich, I see no facts in your post, only ambiguous comment. That is because it was intentional! Different manufactures make smart chargers and they all have different internal parameters. So it is a buyer beware issue, to match application to the information offered in the owners manuals.
How would one know which charger ignores external or internal load changes? Who would we ask?
My suggestion would be to contact the technical help departments and down load a Owners manual for each model's manual you think might do what you need. The other suggestion is to buy the dumbest battery maintainer on the market, if the vehicle is going to be off the road for extended periods of time.
Always check the water levels monthly or no less then every other month.
Does This Help! Rich.
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With all the conversations about battery issues when the Coaches are in storage and the use of auxiliary battery chargers when the OEM charger / inverter units are not being used for a number of reasons. One needs to read over the information in the Owners manuals very carefully.
Smart chargers contain operating software in many cases and how each make and model reacts to a particular application can cause more issues then one expects.
There are a number of items they can perform, but some chargers react to any and all external loads or phantom loads as a defective battery oven a given time period. If the batteries are disconnected from any load they can maintain the charge, but if the battery sets of extended periods of time, the natural slow Sulfation process can be interpreted as a bad battery and the chargers can stop any and all charging. When that happens smart chargers will refuse to run a charging mode! Just indicate a bad or defective battery.
So one might request a charge maintainer style charger that ignores external or internal load changes. But always read the operators manuals ans ask questions. Sales personal most often consider all chargers to be equal. That information is not in there pay grade!
The water levels need to be checked before starting any model charger. USE only distilled water to refill low cells.
Rich.
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Carl, The 3000 input Torque is 1700 Ft. Lbs.
The correct torque converter should solve the torque the transmission see's
Rich.
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Jim's Response.
The Samsung RF18 is a high tech unit that uses a micro processor to control the defrost cycles. The refrigerator and freezer sections have separate evaporators and are controlled independently. Defrost cycles are only activated when icing is detected and duration of each cycle is variable.
Jim, A number of microprocessor system's Do Not like the modified waveform generated by a number of the inverters. There are a number of manufactures that state that fact in there technical information. Many others do not specify the information. Modified waveform can mess up the clock and timing circuits.
Rich.
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12 hours ago, OBIWAN_CANOLI said:As electrical cars become increasingly common (I just put down a deposit on the new 2020 electric Mustang due out in the Fall, 2020), I'm wondering what, if any, progress has, is, or is on the drawing board to address the potential for RV's to charge electric vehicles via shore power, or while being towed...
Does anyone know of a site, or other source, that speaks to this?
Nothing is free, but I'm of the opinion that charging the EV's is possible while being Towed by an RV. However! how soon will that ability be practical enough to build it into every vehicle! Considering the market size of the RV market compared to the overall market?
Towing and charging one is going to add a load to the Coach drive train, that leads to lower Mileage. Using the on board generators is a possibility ! However! they come in many sizes and require fuel.
The KW power rating is around 24 and 54 KW depending on the model. The DC voltage level on the batteries is around 500 volts. Higher the voltage the lower the current requirement, But building a battery with a high voltage level presents it own challenges and safety requirements and EV is not like gas, diesel, CNG or Hydrogen as a fuel source one can use everything in the tanks. Electric battery allow only around 25 % of what is stored and the higher the discharge point - the longer the charging curve.
New battery science is evolving and some issued will be solved. That only means for every step forward new challenges pop up!
This is a link that might help understand the issue posted, but be per paired to do a fair amount of reading down the road.
How many are into the Sciences Chemistry and Physics? Areas that help one understand what lies ahead.
https://www.edmunds.com/car-technology/electric-car-battery-basics-capacity-charging-and-range.html
Happy and Safe Travels with a good dose of curiosity.
Rich.
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Eric. Their original diagnosis was bad "brush block". They received part, and replaced brush block (and fuel filter at my request since they were already in there). Upon starting after those replaced generator was still shutting down for code 27.
The Brush assembly was billed out at 118.94. got a picture of the part, The part is good for around 5 years, but that is dependent on the hour meter running time and the load that is always variable over time. So the time line looks about right regarding the replacement. The other item that one needs to keep in mind is the water pump drive belt that is listed to be changed at each 1000 hr interval.
Return for additional work on loose connections is one of those items in the always check the small details list.
Rich.
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Rich could answer this better than I but I am betting this coach is Multiplexed on a Freighliner chassis I.e. it’s all module controlled and one is not waking up when the ignition is turned.
Thanks Joe. LOL The Model year is right on the Knee of some major changes in the wiring systems. Hope it is more old school !!
From the information in the Original Post. It sounds like everything is working and the leveling system is intermittent.
That being the case one might check all the connections, in this case they are under the dash and it is a tight spot to work.
Look for any loose ground connections, the devil is in the details!
With a Meter check to see if the 12 volt supply is always supplied even when that system is not operating. Kind of a dead giveaway to a bad ground, or a loose connection at the control board.
Rich.
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Keith!
Been looking through some older systems used by HWH. Even though they mention the use of hydraulics for the slide rooms. There is no diagrams of how the manifolds are modified to accommodate the operation of this portion of the system.
A number of items and drawings cover the 310 system you posted as being installed in your coach, but system changes appear to overlap.
From what I have been reading it sounds like there are mechanical latches that keep the slide(s) securely held in place while moving, Because of that feature , it appears these latches can stop both the leveling jacks and the slide hydraulics.
The switch you replaced. Was it supplied by HWH? and was the switch action the same as the OEM switch and the contacts where verified with a meter to match the OEM switch?
Do you have any of the original manuals that came with the coach? If so what do they cover electrically and hydraulically?
Rich.
310 HWH slide room information that might be relevant to the issue.
There are a number of different hydraulic solenoid valves used on the systems built around the time your coach was built.
AP0642 Valve.
This valve was originally a Single wire valve. This valve has a T-handle for manual valve release. The single wire valve can be replaced with the RAP0642 and an adapter. This valve
was used on (310, 325. These 2 systems in common), 610 and 625 along with early room extension systems.
Until 2003, the large valves had a back emf diode installed in the valve. Because the necessary protection for the valves is now in the control box, the diode was removed. The small valves never had the back emf diode.
Because this diode is still necessary in older systems, all replacement large valves have the diode.
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2 hours ago, ERIC@BABIN.COM said:I can't find a model number on the faceplate. However, a google search shows it is probably an ME MR:
https://www.magnum-dimensions.com/sites/default/files/MagArchive/64-0031-Rev-A-Web-ME-MR.pdf
Thanks for the link Eric. That is what I was looking for ! Good information publication date was 2009.
Rich.
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Thanks for the feedback!
One more question, What is the model number of your display? Have not been able to find the one pictured on the Magnum web pages.
The fact the your batteries are in the 6 year old range, things can change quickly from day to day.
I just replaced both 31 series chassis batteries, one of them had a shorted out cell and the other one was still holding a good charge; but I changed them both out. The good one will become part of a power UPC system that will power things up during short power outages. I tend to re-purpose everything. LOL
Rich.
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Eric.
Coach battery sense'r reading"? Not sure what that is, or where to check? This is a picture of the sensor I mentioned. It is installed to help control the charge rate the batteries are receiving.
This is the charger / Inverter manual link. Page 19 of the manual explains the sensor operation and proper location.
https://www.nexusrv.com/fckimages/pdf/Magnum_Inverter_and_Charger_Manual.pdf
This is a link to the Remote control operation manual.
https://www.magnum-dimensions.com/sites/default/files/MagArchive/64-0003-Rev-D-ME-RC.pdf
Rich.
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On 11/14/2019 at 3:19 PM, sgtjoe said:Is this a common thing with the freightliner chassis that my tradewinds has?
I would call it somewhat uncommon to happen on any chassis, but would indicate something unusual did happen. So checking the axle area and suspension for anything unusual would be in order.
Rich.
GM Bay Door Lock Cover
in Chassis
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Richard, I have a bell cover plate on the single outlet box on the back deck. It is 2 1/2 by 3 1/2 .
This might be a source historrichouseparts in the city.
Rich.