dickandlois
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Posts posted by dickandlois
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Thinking you have an abnormal load on the charger, this is most often caused by a shorted 6 volt house battery or 2. The chassis battery can also place a high current load depending on how the charging circuit wiring is setup.
What is the age of the current age of the batteries and how long has it been scene you have added distilled water to the batteries - if they are wet cell type.
Also, what is the coach battery temperature sense'r reading. When the temperature drops the charge current also increases and you get a higher water evaporation rate.
It might be time to check the hydrometer readings of the battery cells !
By chance is the engine block heater been left on?
L-1 breaker is the common side of a 50 amp system used to power the charger / inverter and one heat pump, while L-2 breaker supplies a second heat pump setup.
Rich.
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The filter number for the 8.1 L engine on our 2500 suburban is a NAPA 2487. it is mounted so the air intake MAP sensor is located between the filter and the intake manifold.
If nothing else you will have an idea of what it might look like in your case.
NOTE! If the air intake hose isn't secured and installed properly, the engine will have acceleration issues because of an incorrect fuel to air mixture. Performance is compromised.
Rich.
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22 hours ago, rreiner said:Recently we were in Iowa where it got cold. We purposely did not hook up the hose so it wouldn't freeze. We then tried to use our water pump but after turning it on within seconds it shut off all 3 buttons to it indicating a fuse or something electrical went bad. In our Manuel there was no indication where the circuit was broken? After testing all the fuses we found a 10 amp one had failed on the panel located in our master bath area. The fuse was marked "Monitor Panel" so that's where the confusion was. I don't understand why Holiday Rambler did not have this information about it but glad it was an easy fix. ours is a 2003 40 foot diesel pusher.
rreiner, Welcome to the FMCA Forum !
Thanks for your feedback. Your issue is one of the main reasons that it is so hard to pin issues down. Lack of the proper labeling regarding what fused circuits power what is difficult and it does happen in many makes and models.
Rich.
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6 hours ago, RLS7201 said:2 of then appeared to have loose intake manifold bolts due to gasket crush. The other one appeared to be from overheating and warped mating surfaces.
The best solution for the exhaust manifold issues for us was to install stainless steel ones. A little on the pricey side, but never had another issue with them failing. All the way to Alaska, around Canada and out west a number of times.
The cast-iron stile headers where very prone to cracking if the bolts where to tight and the gaskets failed when things where to loose. A catch 22 issue. The S.S. stile was a true once and done deal for our Big Block.
Rich.
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Old Beaver. There can be a thumping sound when the ride height is off, but the fact that the drive shaft was removed it sure sounds like you need a shop that deals with repairing and balancing drive shafts. They would know if the drive shaft was put back together out of phase .
The one I have used for years in our area is Fleet Pride. They do have a number of locations, but I have no idea where you are located at the time. You can look up Drive shaft repair shops and locate one on the internet.
Driving the coach with a problem drive shaft can cause an expansive repair bill, because that problem can also damage the axle drive shaft and or the transmission seals and bearings.
The old saying - (A stitch in time saves nine) - does apply in you case !!!!! You did get the tires replace and the thump is still present, so it is not the tires that are causing the issue.
Rich.
Rocky mentioned the carrier bearing and this would be true on Gas powered chassis's, Except when the engines are mounted in the rear like you Beaver.
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4 minutes ago, jleamont said:Would you happen to know if it was unbolted at each end when removed or slid off of the splines on one end? Sounds like the drive shaft is out of phase. JUST make certain you let the current shop know the full timeline of events. It could speed up their diagnosis which will save you $$
Ditto, Ditto. We are on the same page. LOL
Rich.
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Old beaver, The sound you are hearing sounds like the drive shaft could have been installed out of phase!
The fact that it was towed to the service facility means the drive shaft was removed, if the tow truck driver did what needed to be done.
Out of phase happens when the 2 universal joints are not lined up properly, because the shaft consists of 2 sections that have splines to connect the m. Sure sounds like your noise is cumming from that problem. More noticeable at highway speeds.
Rich.
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11 hours ago, RLS7201 said:I have personally experienced 3 cases of intake manifold leak on the 454 big block, that allowed coolant to penetrate a cylinder and cause hydrostatic lock.
If it were mine I would re torque the intake manifold bolts. If multiple bolts were loose I would think a new intake manifold gasket would be in order.
Thanks for your feedback.
Could you offer some mileage and driving conditions the 3 engines where exposed to that might have caused the intake manifold leak or if it was a material failure issue.
Rich.
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Although I do have a push button start I do not have the multiplex system in my coach.
The push button would control a small starting relay that pulls in a much larger one to feed power to the starter Solenoid. The fact that everything else works when the key is install, sure would lead me in that direction other then a hidden fuse.
Good luck.
Rich.
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This post contains user information that this style of control works, but the videos do not cover what it takes to keep them working. The same type of networks are also present on the new chassis wiring system, but they are for the most part invisible. The push to start button is a dead giveaway that the chassis has been wired with a logic controlled or expanded CAN(Closed Area Network).
Welcome to the 21st. Century !
Rich .
links for the coach network system. If I run into anything on the chassis system on U tube, I will attach them in the same way!
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7 minutes ago, manholt said:Oh, well above my pay grade! I got yo remember, every thing elect has changed in the past 8 years!!!
OH, has it ever and accelerating exponentially !! The sad thing is the manufacturing end has no training system setup to get field or shop tech's up to speed. Then setting a pay scale to attract the required Tech's.
This is a n area that robots will not be able to function for a number of years to come.
Rich.
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Carl, The Chassis wiring system uses a multiplex digital control system.
No electrical wiring files for that system on file yet on my end. Thinking there is a low voltage logic control relay in the starter circuit. CAN systems are great when they work, but few RV techs have the training required .
Think the best path at this time is to contact Freightliner and ask for the Chassis control and wiring PDF files. Using the VIN number. Think Kay and I might be able to decipher the interconnections. The control system uses 5 volts, but it is not all that simple.
So if Mypopslou could attach them to a reply - it would help understand his ignition system in better detail.
Rich.
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Mike, Welcome to the Forum !
IMHO, the system software will not have any issues in most cases. The bigger issue is passing the required emission tests!
That will require a catalytic system or part capable of removing or modifying the exhaust gases flowing out the tail pipe.
Rich.
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Mypopslou, Could you post the chassis information that your coach is built on?
Model information is one part of the info, but the chassis wiring is another.
From your posts it sounds like the chassis engine and the generator will not start. Please post the generator model and make. Do you have the auto start feature? If so who's system is being used?
Think the best path at this time is to contact Freightliner with his VIN number and get the chassis wiring PDF files and attach them to a post on this forum thread or directly to me. I might be able to read the wiring. I'm also sure that Kay has the skill set to understand the systems
Rich.
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Dave, Your reply is kind of confusing to me. That is not hard to do some day's. LOL
If the hydraulic system failed completely it would create a difficult (not impossible) situation getting diesel fuel into the tank. ?
Did you mean Diesel or getting Hydraulic fluid into the system?
Brett, did mention that some of the slides are electric and that also includes the generator slide out.
Could you post who's hydraulic system is installed in your coach.
Rich.
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3 hours ago, killackeyptrcorp said:Also I know the connection is still good between the electric motor and the pump due to the attempt to push the slide open and the fact that the leveling/stabilizing jacks deploy down and makes light contact with the ground.
Dave,
With You being familiar with hydraulic operation, the common operating pressure for the jack and slide systems is 3000 lbs. when working properly. The common current requirement is 20 amps. Have you checked the wiring for the pump and solenoids for loose or corroded connections?
The hydraulic manifold has 3 or 4 solenoids for the jacks and one for each slid out.
Who's leveling and slide system is installed on your coach ?
Rich.
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1 hour ago, KingRichard said:Strange While driving, my engine stopped when I tried to close the Stair Cover while moving!
Richard, I certainly hope it restarted OK.
Could you post the Make, Model and year of your Coach? It would be interesting to look into how the electrical system is setup, if I can find the information.
Rich.
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15 hours ago, westmc said:I have a 2004 Damon Challenger on a Workhorse W22 chassis .I'm looking for two things 1. a wiring diagram 2. fuse panel locations (I have found one under drivers side dash, One under the hood and one in the breaker panel in bedroom ) are there any others? I have a hot wire that blew the fuse. I have checked all of the fuses in the panels I listed they all checked out ok.
Thanks for any help
Dan
Dan, Welcome to the FMCA Forum !
There are different manuals for the coach, that are supplied buy the builder and manuals for the chassis, supplied by the chassis builder.
There are different manuals listed for the chassis, do you have a 8.1 leader engine?
I attached the electrical drawings for the W-22 chassis. They can be over whelming if you are not into DYI on a number of electrical repair.
Rich.
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6 hours ago, RayIN said:I got an email last week, Yahoo is shutting down some of their groups features.https://help.yahoo.com/kb/groups/SLN31010.html
A number of yahoo group users are going to Gmail, groups that have the required technical moderator or IT help are having very few issues with moving all their files and user list.
Rich.
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8 hours ago, fagnaml said:Thanks for the feedback thus far. I call Freightliner about the coolant filter and that tech (yet another one) said I don't have a coolant filter (yay!). I explained my temperature fluctuation and fan behavior to him and his response was "not what he has seen". He did recommend that I call Cummins Customer Care at 1-800-286-6467 to discuss my situation (I hadn't found that phone number yet). The tech I talked to a Cummins told me my ISB engine is "programmed" to operate in the 187 - 207 F temperature range and the fact that the engine temp creeped up to 210-212 F as the fan was going to high speed was not a concern. The fan and cooling system is operating as it should. The tech said max engine temp for the ISB is 225 F.
So if the engine temperature control is "programmed" to operating in the 187 - 207 F, I now wonder if I have nothing to worry about ??
I'm still taking the motorhome to Houston Cummins Coach Care next week for coolant change and thermostat change just so I can "check the box" for those routing maintenance items. Also, for the coolant change Freightliner to me to refill with the purple coolant with SCAs as the "probes" installed in the cooling system are for purple color coolant. If red color long life coolant is used the probes may not work with that color.
My head is spinning with all of this varying information. I feel like an idiot who knows nothing. Can someone please give me a sanity check??
Mike, I have not found any reference between coolant sensors and coolant formulation, but for a sanity check you might read over the information offered in these 2 links.
If you can understand the information, then your sanity level is still in a normal range and I still find myself the RV 101 category. LOL.
It could be in the Chemistry, but kind of out of my pay grade. It is all changing way to fast.
http://labcheckresources.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/Coolant-System-Maintenance-Guide-FINAL1.pdf
http://esource.alstribology.com/WB082_August2015/Coolant Formulation.html
Rich.
Coach care by location PDF File
https://www.cummins.com/sites/default/files/2019-04/coach-care-locations-by-state-april-2019.pdf
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7 hours ago, betsymarie said:Inverter charger has 120v power in, no charger power for batteries, no ac power out on 1 and 2. How can we tell if we need a new inverter or batteries?
Welcome to the FMCA Forum !
From the information you posted, Have you measured the Coach battery voltage? Low voltage readings could indicate corroded connections, Low water levels and this condition will cause the batteries to fail. Use Distilled water only when filling the cells.
There is a large ANL fuse located in the DC power wiring side of the system, this fuse is used to supply 12 volts to the batteries when charging and to the inverter when it is making AC power. if the fuse has failed you could have a bad battery or 2.
Attached is a PDF file that is used to run through the diagnostic test tree for a Xantrex series inverter and I'm making the assumption that this is the make of the charger / inverter installed in your coach.
Rich.
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Bill, The Road master specifications in the link above cover the torque specs for the different bolts used installing the kit.
Rich.
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7 hours ago, carnut500 said:I have 2010 Itasca Suncruiser 35P with W22 chassis. I have a roadmaster steering stabilizer to install but I have to remove nuts from one of the U bolts that hold the axle to the springs. I heard that the torque on those bolts is over 400 ft lbs. Does anyone know exact torque value? Any way I can get service manual for workhorse?
Currently looking at a Workhorse chassis manual, looking for the front "U" bolt torque level requirement. Large manual - taking longer then anticipated.
Think This link will give you the proper bolt torque levels for the Roadmaster Chassis.
https://www.roadmasterinc.com/pdfinst/1259-108.pdf
Rich
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stmorganmd. Welcome to the FMCA Forum !
I think it just needs a tilt adjustment but not sure if adjusting the stops might also be required.
I could not find any information on setting the tilt / perpendicular plane relative to the coach sidewall.
https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws.com/manuals/slideouts/82_s0379.pdf
This manual lists the parts, but does not show any mechanical adjustment points or parts that would be used to make settings and to make any adjustments, some large equipment is required in most cases. It becomes a personal safety issue. Think you might need to call LCI and ask for technical help.
https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws.com/manuals/slideouts/pg_82_s0378.pdf
Page 4 Check for excessive weight in slide system or storage bins. This is the one item that tends to come up frequently.
Rich.
Where does the FMCA placard go on a fiver?
in Fifth Wheels
Posted · Report reply
Welcome to the FMCA Forum !
The rear of the RV's is very common. The second one can be located on the entrance area or the hitch area when you'r parked.
Always remember the forum does not consider any question(s) to be unworthy of being posted. That is why the Forum was created.
Rich.