dickandlois
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Posts posted by dickandlois
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11 hours ago, RayIN said:I have not experienced that with any of my diesel-powered engines, had a 1973 Case diesel tractor, and this MH running on today's diesel fuel ever since ULSD and biodiesel were commercially-available. The only problem I've had was with my '02 Duramax diesel engine, biodiesel reacted with the copper seals in the high-pressure fuel lines underneath the valve covers, GM replaced them under a TSB.
Ray,
You might have run into the use of neoprene fuel lines. A large portion of the lines on my coach where - are neoprene, but short sections where rubber in the supply side and the returns.
They where probably cheaper and held up better to the bio. For the generator supply that was not the case. Somewhat a mixed blessing.
Rich.
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Russ, Welcome to the FMCA Forum !!!
Your second post was a good Catch. Have a feeling that you might be new to the forum, but have been around coach's or something that uses set belts.
We tend to take items for granted and new owners tend to be overwhelmed.
Rich.
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Frank and Carl .
Thinking The one jack has a sensor issue. The computer will auto level when it has all the data required to complete the task.
The jacks have sensors that tell the computer a particular jack has made contact with the ground and the the next jack in the sequence is lowered.
When all the jacks are on the ground the level of the coach is checked and then the low corner is raised until coach is level.
A defective sensor, bad wiring or connection will cause a problem. I have witnessed a problem with blown fuse causing leveling issues. The appropriate valve an powering the hydraulic pump in short quick pulses can blow the main power fuse. Although that is not the issue in this case.
Rich.
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Mark, The Fuel lines and some other items in the supply system where used before the introduction of Bio Diesel.
Bio brakes down the fuel lines, seals and the lift pump. the particles wind up in the fuel tank and filters.
The best fix is to replace all the fuel line with B-20 grade, the fuel return lines,the lift pump if it is older and a Cummins and any seals that have not been replaced in the supply and return system while the conversion was is progress.
Rich.
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14 minutes ago, fhuntington said:My left rear leveling jack does not full extend on auto mode. Works OK on on manual mode. On auto mode the two front levelers extend. The the right rear leveler extend to the ground. Then left rear leveler extends to the ground. Then right rear leveler extends further lifting the left rear leveler off the ground. The the auto system stops with the left rear lever off the ground.
Welcome to the FMCA Forum !
Could you post the Make, Model and year of you coach along with leveling system installed?
To Get relevant information.
Could be a sensor, calibration or something else.
Rich.
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I hope to build at a minium a 1,000 gallon per day reverse osmosis system, which equals to a 41.66666666666667 gallon per hour permiate rate so I can fill my 105 gallon fresh water tank in close to two and a half hours. At a 1,800 gallon production rate I could fill the tank in about 1.4 hours and a 2,000 gallon per day would fill it in about 1.26 hours....
The only time one should need a high capacity R / O system is when filling the tank the first time. We do not travel with full water tank. Run with between 1/4 and 1/2 when on the road.
The weight of the water adds up to less fuel mileage. Only takes a short time to add enough water to run for a day.
When dry camping we limit how much is used each day.
Rich.
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Tim, Think your coach has a 6.7,but it could be a 5.9 and they are a little easier to change the thermostat.
The 2004 engine did not require an EGR system and the 2005 engine has the EGR valve and the cross over pipe sits above the thermostat and needs to be removed, to get to the thermostat.
The video link is for a Dodge truck 6.7 replacement. The hardest part might be getting to the engine on the RV. Not sure what might be in the way and how tight it is on your coach.
Watch the video it does point out the process wrench sizes and do not loose the gasket(s) used at the EGR line couplings.
The video does show the seal failure on the top of the thermostat.
Hope you can get to it without to many issues.
Because of the engine being turned around, whats on the left in the video is on the right as you work on the coach engine.
Rich.
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The attached picture shows the area where the dash looses support just above the wood sections that are pictured.
Removing the kick panel can be a changeling if the owner has not worked repairing other items on a Class A Coach. This is a picture of a Fleetwood Bounder That had a loose dash on the right side of the dash.
The bottom of the panel needs to be removed along with the other items in the picture that are attached to the back side of the panel. Need the proper tools and some skill working on items like kitchen cabinets helps.
Angle and steel T connectors the proper size and even some new of sections of the same sized wood installed.
Rich.
You are correct it is a tight spot - removing the passenger set is a good move. Dash is still loose because the dash needs to be screwed to a the correct size angle, connecting the wood frame running from the bottom of the dash down to the floor. Above the section pictured is where I added some extra sentions of wood to get good connection between the dash and side support !!!!!
Wish I had taken pictures of just how I repaired the same problem years ago.
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1 hour ago, RzRzRzR said:Does anyone know of a good place to repair or replace fogged side windows in New Jersey?
Welcome to the FMCA Forum !
What part of NJ do you live in information might help in locating a shop ?
Rich.
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On 8/19/2019 at 5:41 PM, Beanbaron said:The hood release cable cams loose on our 1995 Airstream diesel pusher. Does anyone have any idea or suggestions to be able to open it?
Welcome to the FMCA Forum !
I'm Not familiar with the Airstream Series Coaches.
You Might Try this link to The Airstream Forum.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f312/1995-land-yacht-34-turbo-diesel-171020.html
Rich.
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10 minutes ago, F433921 said:Huff,
Is there any chance that the stop command from the AGS is not a long enough duration to shut the generator down.
Jim
Good thought Jim, but Ray did not mention the Generator attempted to stop or sputtered. A short stop command should have some affect.
Rich.
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Ray, is the jumper for the system configured for the GD series and or for the Gas generator setup?
Picking at straws at this point !
AGS Wall Switch Installation (option)
1. Locate a convenient spot to mount the AGS Switch. The side wall of the coachs refrigerator enclosure is the most common (and recommended). The switch should be mounted midway up the wall for best results. NOTE: The thermistor that is used to sense the coachs interior temperature is located on the back of the AGS Switch. It is vital that the switch be placed where interior room temperatures can be accurately sensed by the thermistor. Keep the sensor away from heating and air conditioning ducts, window drafts and avoid mounting it on the coachs exterior walls. Interior walls and cabinets provide much more stable temperatures and also make it easier to route the switchs cable to the AGS Controller.
Rich.
Ray, There is no information or Fault code listed in the trouble shooting chart for AGS mod not stopping the Generators? A number of LED fault codes for other issues.
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Ray, Does The generator shut down with the OEM switch OK ? after it has been started with the AGS?
I wounder if the 40 ft. remote cable is picking up some interference from somewhere ?
Think magnum uses remote cables wired like regular old phone cables,(Unlike Xantrex) might try a very short one , it looks like the 40 ft. one is coiled up right under the AGS Mod and right on top of the inverter. That much wire - that close to the inverter might be the problem.
One wire in the picture looks like it might be a sensor of some kind ?
Rich.
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42 minutes ago, desertdeals69 said:Have the engine steam cleaned and then drive it a few miles and you should be able to see where the oil is coming from.
Been wondering if it might be a fuel leak.
Found this post on another forum thought it might be relavent.
Originally posted by BUCKAROO:
LAST WEEK ON OUR WAY TO PERRY GA. FOR THE RALLY OUR HIGH PRESSURE FUEL LINE BROKE. DIESEL FUEL ALL OF OUR TOW VECHICLE. DIESEL FUEL EVERY WHERE IN ENGINE COMPARTMENT, SMOKE COMING OFF TOP OF ENGINE. WE ARE GLAD THERE WASN'T A FIRE. HAD TO BE TOWED TO A CUMMINGS DEALER THEY KNEW RIGHT A WAY WHAT THE PROBLEM WAS. IF YOU HAVE A CUMMINGS 400 DON'T WAIT, CALL A CUMMINGS DEALER AND HAVE THEM CHECK YOUR VIN NUMBER TO SEE IF YOU IN THE RANGE FOR THE FIX, IF YOU ARE GET IT DONE. BROKE DOWN BESIDE THE ROAD ISN'T FUN. I WISHED THEY WOULD HAVE NOTIFIED US INSTEAD OF US HAVING TO NOTIFIED THEM. THE CAMPAIGN NUMBER IS #0805----------------------------------------------
We have tried to get the message out here; sorry you didn't see it. Cummins is awaiting a list of owners of ISL 400's from OEM's so they can notify but as stated earlier no need to wait. To anyone reading this for first time call Cummins distributor and if on list get it in and fixed. The fix is replacement of existing fuel line and addition of new bracket.Rich.
The Electrical issue might be something wired wrong when the fuse box was replaced, If I'm reading the OP correctly .Something drawing a higher then original current or current when it should not be, only load might be required when the engine is running ?
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Think you need to find a mobile service tech or service center for your AC issue. The parts and testing them are built into the Roof AC units and that is where the repair(s) need to start.
This is one of the best locator links I have found if they are unable to offer any help. They might be able to offer a possible service center contact number.
Rich.
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Thanks Brett! Think that is a real good link and helpful.
Glad you are keeping an eye on the kids. LOL
Sending you a PM
Rich.
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Clark, I added some questions to my original post.
Air pressure holds the brakes off when driving - When the air pressure is removed by the park brake system, the air is removed from the air cylinder that keeps them from applying pressure to the park air cylinder.
Sounds like you have a mechanical issue with the rear brake pads, the spring that applies the brakes issue, adjustment issues or warn-out brake pads.
Emergency/Hand Brakes • Spring Brake Park Brake –What happens
Air-over-hydraulic systems use vehicle’s air system to hold brake off when vehicle moving. – When actuation valve moved to apply brakes, air pressure is exhausted from spring brake chamber. – Power spring in unit mechanically moves brake components to apply brake.
Park Brake and Emergency Circuits •
All vehicles required to have park brake system that can act as emergency brake should there be failure of service brakes.
Tandem arrangements: either one or the other part of tandem system designated as emergency brake, depending on which service system fails.
Hydraulic braking systems:
Park or emergency brake mechanically operated hand brake
Air-over-hydraulic systems:
spring brakes often used as parking brakes.
Rich.
Your Mechanic should be able to see the air cylinder move when the air is released. You have some braking from what you have posted, but the mechanical portion is not applying enough pressure to the brake pads to hold the coach when the air pressure is released in park.
The fallowing information covers the systems with pictures and written information near the end of the file !!!
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Clarks, I will try to attach a file that offers some information on the type system you have.
Rich.
When the air system fails you need to apply more pressure to get the same response from the hydraulic system with air assist.
The question now is, does the brake peddle pressure have the same results and only the park brake is causing you concern ? Good wheel blocks could keep the coach from moving.
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Tim, Does the generator set any Error Codes ?
How many hrs. are on the meter?
What is the coolant Level?
Rich.
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11 hours ago, Timnjulie said:Recently purchased 38' 2005 Damon Astoria M-3679 with 300 hp cummins diesel pusher. Had motor, chassis, entire RV serviced at authorized RV shop. 1st trip going up hills or exceeding 65 mph on flat roads engine guage goes to red zone (210 deg. f-220 deg. F) and warning comes on info center. Returning from trip took if to RV shop and they put in new air filter, flushed radiater, put in new coolant, no change, still overheats. RV shop says they don't know what else to do, any suggestions?
Tim, Welcome to the FMCA Forum to both of you !
Attached are pictures of an extremely dirty Radiator and CAC / Air Cooler setup and what they look like when clean.
Cleaning them yearly is a good plan, but they do need cleaning every 2 years in most cases to keep the engine running cool.
Note! Pictured is the setup for a rear mounted system that was way to dirty to work, the side mounted systems also need attention.
Clean things with Simple Green Extreme . This product is made to clean Aluminium, other type cleaners can damage aluminium. The other way to clean things is with a Steam cleaning system. DO Not use high pressure when cleaning, this can bend the cooling fins that decreases cooling.
Cleaning the system is a messy job. One can get very dirty and wet when doing it properly.
Rich.
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Thor has been very responsive to requests for information in most cases. Including the 12 and 120 volt wiring information.
You might want to call and ask for technical help.
Rich.
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9 hours ago, rickterzo said:Hi My name is Rick Terzo
I have a class A motor home with a Sauer Danfoss hydraulic motor for cooling fans for radiator part number 551101095210 cant find anyone that stocks one ,must supplier say 18 weeks to get .Can anyone help
Hi Rick. Welcome to the FMCA Forum !
Just a heads up regarding the Motor.
There are information Numbers listed on the Hydraulic motor, you very well could need them so the replacement motor can be setup in the required configuration - so make sure you have all the information from the original when ordering a replacement.
Rich.
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Joe, Like you I have driven the same Rt. a number of times, My personal favorite by far. However! there is a large construction job on the North side of Selingsgrove and that is a slow 5 miles, but taking 15 North to Williamsport will put you right in South Williamsport. The home of the Little League World series.
That time of the year ! By chance are you going to watch the games?
Rich.
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2 hours ago, Mimipapa8 said:I am very new to the RV world and assume that I am doing something wrong. Upon disconnecting from shore power at my last stop, I lost 12 v power to my instrument panel as well as to the RV. Upon reconnections at the next location, I had power to all outlets. I did have 110 v power from the inverter as the refrigerator continued to operate while on the road. Any suggestions.
Welcome to the FMCA Forum!
Could you post the Make, Model and Year of your Coach or Trailer for the group ? There are so many different manufactures and not knowing what class or style RV you are asking about makes it difficult to offer some information that would be relevant.
Rich.
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1996 HR Navigator - HELP
in Engines
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The jar also works good to check the DEF. That can also prevent some problems.
Rich.