willtory

Seems like a lot of recommendations to go to CAT for service and information. Yes, the injectors did come from CAT. No I would NOT again take ANYTHING to the local CAT dealer. My experience with them is a BIG negative. Who did the work? a QUALIFIED technician with many years experience on CAT equipment. Am I happy? Glad to see the engine running as expected. NOT happy with the service life of the injectors (114K miles) and with waiting 4 days for CAT to deliver the injectors after they charged me to overnight them.

I suspect the build up was caused by over fueling of those injectors. But then what do I know?!?

What "O" Rings? Here are two photos showing the connector on the harness side and the injector. BTW, all 6 injectors replaced, 2 had a large build-up of carbon on the tip. Engine now purring like a CAT!

Brett, the CAT tech connected his laptop to the data port and stated there were no codes. With the engine running at fast idle (1000 RPM) we could hear and feel what I referred to as a 'miss' such as with a gasoline engine mis-fire. During driving, acceleration at around 1400 RPM, I could feel a definite shudder - it was not running gear or wheel balance. The tech selectively de-energized (?) each injector and we observed the change in RPM and engine 'sound'. Each one de-energized exhibited a definite change in engine performance with the exception of 2 injectors. This WAS with a second opinion - that being another tech. I am not excited about throwing money at the problem, but am not a diesel mechanic, so at some point I need to trust the tech's troubleshooting. Your opinion please on the oil change frequency recommendation and the oil additive.

With 114,500 miles on my 2004 Itasca Meridian powered by CAT 3126E, my mechanic has informed me that #2 and #3 injectors are bad. He recommended to change all 6. Injectors are on order, scheduled to change on Tuesday. The reason for change is a shudder at high idle (around 1200 to 1400 RPM) and driving during acceleration at around 1400 RPM. I have also been informed by this mechanic to increase my oil and filter replacement to 4,500 to 5,000 miles, and use an oil additive. My question is what if anything is recommended as an oil or fuel supplement? When looking at additives on the store shelf, there seems to be numerous brands for oil and fuel. Would appreciate the opinions of the resident experts.

Thank you, sir for the info and the link!

Not quite. Rapidly approaching 80, we decided to hang up the keys, and sold it. After one year, realized that we were RVaholics and started to shop for a replacement. I considered downsizing, but SWMBO refused, comparing every coach to "my Meridian"! So, I contacted the new owner, consummated a deal and bought it back!! I trusted the new owner when he told me it was "just like you sold it to me" and drove it home without a thorough inspection. Caveat Emptor! I will bring it back to the condition it needs to be, and we will continue to enjoy it.

Seemed to me also! Sold the motorhome in March 2016, bought it back (long story) in September 2017. Transmission shifting hard, sometimes slipping. Shop said teardown was necessary. This was found. Transmission was rebuilt, replaced engine front seal, universal joints. Motorhome was delivered new in October 2003 with ATF-III, fluids and filters replaced on Allison recommended frequency by me. After overhaul, tranny filled with Transyn. What caused failure? Don't know. Theory was possibly rocking the transmission. Stuck in snow or mud? Never by me, but don't know about previous owner.

(Specifically the HEUI injectors used on the CAT 3126E engine)How does B-20 fuel impact injector performance/life?What is the mean time between failure (MTBF) of the injector?What is typical failure mode of injector? Solenoid? Burned or carbon tip? Sludge? Plugged?My 3126E engine (with 114K miles) exhibits a slight shudder on acceleration around 1400 RPM. When monitoring RPM with my VMSpc, I do not detect a fluctuation, and at steady speed, all is well. Based on that, I am not suspecting ride-height adjustment or tires, and the universal joints have been replaced during transmission overhaul. My mechanic told me it was possibly an injector, and he has test equipment that can selective turn on/off solenoids. (Must complete body work first, however) Have viewed numerous injector operation videos on U-Tube, but have not found answers to the above questions.

I've replaced mine on my CAT 3126E several times - usually at the 3-year time. The last one (Sept 17) was purchased from Freightliner, costing $90.22.

I am the original owner, the transmission had ATFIII when delivered. It is at an Allison transmission shop. A sample won't tell much because to fluid (19 qt) and filters were changed two days ago. I will visit the shop to observe the teardown.

Allison 3000 transmission in 2004 Itasca Meridian motor home with 114,572 miles shifting rough, shuddering during acceleration at 1400 RPM. Technician at transmission shop states there are no codes, and that verifies the electronics. States tranny must be torn down and overhauled. Transmission filters were changed annually, fluid (ATFIII) was changed at 20,000 miles or two years which ever came first (usually the calendar time). So, what causes a transmission to fail at this relatively low mileage?

No argument with that....the truck laser alignment technician told me that the rear axle was out 3/4 inch, and the axle (Neway) on the Freightliner chassis could not be aligned. Freightliner told me that it could, indeed, be aligned and directed me to the local Freightliner Service Center. Here are the Service Invoice comments: "Set the coach up on the alignment rack to check the rear alignment. Found the ride height 3/8 low on the right. Adjusted as needed to level the coach. Measure the rear axle offset. The rear axle is only 1/8" on the target over the length of the coach. Good. No further action taken for the rear axle." The coach has new tires (all 6) so you know i will keep a close look at tire wear.

I have a similar problem on a Freightliner chassis ('04 Itasca Meridian). Have had numerous alignments to include laser alignment of drive axle - he reported axle out 3/4 inch and cannot be adjusted. Freightliner says it can. Local Freightliner Service Center checked ($100) and said it was "within tolerance". Total spent for 4-point alignment was $425. So, I'm at a loss as to what is causing the right steer tire to wear abnormally. This is the 4th tire in that position.

MrWalt, the switch bezel is held on with two or more tiny plastic pins that (my experience) will surely break when the face plate is removed. Check this site to see if it is of any help: http://jrproducts.net/index.php/catalog/load_product_list/Electrical/Switch%20Base%20&%20Face%20Plates/

I use Delorme's Street Atlas for trip planning. I put notes on the map describing whatever info I want to keep, and save the route. Each route is then available with all the info I wanted to save. I have attached a sample:

My resolution to that problem was to call a mobile service. He came out, called HWH, they responded (because he was a serviceman?) and we were able to resolve the problem. At $80 per hour.

Could be one of two different problems - first, the tongue of the latch might not be engaging the hook far enough, allowing for the natural shifting of the door during transit to disengage the latch. Secondly, a combination of the pressure of the door seals, and a slightly worn tongue of the latch might allow the latch to "not" fully latch upon closing. Then again, it might be a combination of the two. If this were mine, I would empty a compartment, and with a "trusted" assistant, allow the assistant to close the door with me inside the compartment - then attempt to force the door open. This would tell you more of the story.

The mirrors (manufactured by Velvac) on my motorhome were painted a flat-black color and the heads were of a plastic-type material. I asked around at auto paint shops for an estimate and each time it was in excess of $200. A local paint shop matched the color, put the paint in a rattle-can, and along with another can of clear-coat, I repainted them myself for less than $50. They look "factory fresh" and I spent the rest on my toys!

Try Crater Lake Resort 50711 Hwy 62 Fort Klamath, OR Tel: 541-381-2349 N 42.690221 W 121.972611 It's a small park, but a great place to stay while visiting Crater Lake.

Me also. Though it is getting old, mine has the 2011 software and many POI's. It just keeps going and going, and....

Yes, they do have a 34 site campground, along with a resort, golf course, restuarant, 250 room lodge, and 23 cabins. Sites are arranged in 3 circles, back-in sites on the inside, pull-thrus on the outside of each circle. They give a 10% senior citizen discount. We were there in 2004. The campground charge appeared AGAIN on a credit card statement one year later!

When I joined the US Air Force in 1955 I was told that one of the favorite things GI's did was to complain. (A different word was used) Retired in 1982 after 27 years, and things had not changed. Now in 2011, I see that it still hasn't changed! Sure, I wish I could stay for free at military installations, but am thankful for the ones that allow me to stay, and gladly pay the fee! I figure the military facilities are there for the ACTIVE DUTY folks - not us retired geezers!

For the latest information (directions, status, rates, phone numbers, etc) on Military FamCamps, go to http://www.militarycampgrounds.us/ This web page is an invaluable tool for obtaining information about FamCamps.

I always look for the Flying J stations, and would only stop at Love's as a last resort. With a 700 mile fuel range, using Flying J exclusively has not been a problem.