wolfe10

RB, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. A call to Winnebago with your coach VIN should yield the most accurate information.

The official position by ALL diesel engine makers is that ULSD is backward compatible with all their engines. In other words, no additive needed. I use two additives for specific reasons: If storing fuel for more than 2 months in the summer or 3 months in the winter, I add a BIOCIDE (from any marine store). If storing summer grade diesel into below freezing conditions, I add an anti-gel (from any Walmart). Brett

Good general older engine advice from Herman. In addition to that, the thing that concerns me is that the smoke is coming into the coach. That could indicate an exhaust leak and be VERY DANGEROUS. I would find someone familiar with the old Mopar 440 and have them help you troubleshoot it.

mdouglass55, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. There is no reason for that kind of performance from any RV refrigerator in good condition. What make and model do you have? Is it in a slide? Do you have the auxiliary fans at the top of the refrigerator outside compartment exhausting UP? Have you tested the 120 VAC heating element(s)?

From the Blue Ox Website for the Sport Lift III: http://www.blueox.com/p-1185-sport-lift-iii.aspx P/N: SC4200, Sport Lift III P/N: SC9000, Receiver Hitch W/ Plates **Please verify motorhome chassis capacity rating before purchase, as some coaches do not support all carriers or Sport Lifts. Sport Lifts are for Diesel Pushers only. Some welding is necessary for installation of Sport Lifts, Sport Carriers, and Motorcycle Carrier I. Follow proper welding guidelines. When towing with a Sport Carrier, the use of a Class IV tow bar, Class IV safety cable, and supplemental braking system is strongly suggested.

OK, but since you said you did not loose vacuum boost to the brakes even after 5 minutes with the engine off, but did loose it when the cruise control was operating, I would block the cruise control vacuum line as well (assuming it is vacuum operated). From your description, the cruise control is the variable.

BAD news. Particularly on a diesel, do NOT start it unless you can get the OIL, not just coolant up to operating temperature. If you start it and don't put enough load on it to get the crankcase up to temperature, you are just adding condensation to the crankcase (water vapor is a normal combustion product). If you can't drive a minimum of 25 highway miles, don't start it. That is directly from the Caterpillar Engine Maintenance Seminar I will be presenting in Indianapolis and applies to all brands of diesel engines. If properly done, the generator can be run in the driveway-- just turn on electrical loads equal to at least 50% of the generator's capacity and let it run a minimum of 45 minutes. Brett

Try to get some more history on the coach. Under 1,700 miles per YEAR scares me. Sitting in a field for a couple of year is a lot harder on a DP than an extra 50,000 miles. Do you have access to any maintenance records-- many items are based on time as well as miles. Brett

7-8 MPG with the Ford V10 Class A and 3500 pound toad.

You have just confirmed that you do not have a vacuum leak through the Invisibrake system (engine off for 5 minute and no decrease in vacuum to brake booster). Suggest you check the vacuum components of the cruise control, as they appear to be the issue. May be as simple as taking off the vacuum line to the cruise control and sucking on it-- no vacuum suggests you should get with Honda to troubleshoot it.

Wonder if a vacuum reservoir would solve the problems. All gasoline powered vehicles have very low/zero vacuum under hard acceleration.

McBrian, Vacuum to brake vacuum booster should be the same, whether using the throttle or cruise control (engine-generated vacuum would be the same and based on throttle position). Can't understand how it would be different based on whether the throttle is applied by your foot or cruise control unless the cruise control has a vacuum leak. When you turn off the engine, comeback after 5 minutes and step on the brake pedal. Is it hard then or "normal"? That would be a reasonable leak down test for the vacuum (excluding cruise control circuit). If it is hard after 5 minutes of sitting with the engine off, start removing and blocking off vacuum lines until you find the culprit. Brett

Mario, Depends completely on where/how the solar panel and its controller are tied into your 12 VDC system. If you don't see wires from the solar panel/controller connected directly to the battery or between the battery and the disconnect switch, the answer is that it can't charge them with the switch in the disconnect position. Easy to tell with a digital voltmeter (start under $20 at Sears, Radio Shack, etc). On a sunny day, with shore power and generator OFF, check voltage at the battery with the switch ON and OFF. That will tell you very quickly if the batteries are being charged. Charge voltage (float level) should be in the 13.2-13.5 range. Up to 14.5 VDC if the controller is in bulk charge mode. Brett

Herman, Yes, they exist, but we don't even know if the OP has a gas or diesel or what his towing capacity is. The rig you describe may WAY exceed his safe towing ability-- we just don't have enough information to know. Brett

Ken, Yes, golf cart batteries wired in series or if 4 series/parallel are a common way to get quality deep cycle batteries for the house battery bank (vs chassis batteries). And Trojan T105 and T145's are a good choice. Brett

pilotab23, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What brand and model jacks do you have? On some, including our HWH jacks, using the incorrect stow procedure can trap fluid in the lines/jacks. Might start by reading your jack manual on the exact procedure for your system. Brett

Wonder if this is the old B engine with "53" cast block?

Jim, What motorhome do you have? What is the weight of the motorcycle you would like to carry? Particularly on motorhomes with a long rear overhang, a motorcycle and carrier add a significant weight to the rear axle and subtract quite a lot of weight from the front axle. This can adversely affect handling or in some cases make it a dangerous proposition.

rapata, You likely have two separate issues: Sensor for leveling system needs to be adjusted-- use a level to determine "level" and adjust the sensor to agree with the bubble level. Your level system may have a leak allowing the the front to drop. Contact your jack manufacturer to properly troubleshoot it. Could be an issue with a jack or with the manifold system.

DutchStarCat, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Can't help with your dump valve question, but you might check again on what engine you have. The Caterpillar 3126 is a 7.2 liter. Cummins does have an 8.3 liter-- the C engine. Brett

Rob, Your dealer is correct. You can get a better/less expensive faucet at a plumbing supply house or box store. Remove the old faucet and take it with you so you get one that will connect with the least number of adapters (zero adapters is best). Brett

Mario, Several causes of excessive water use/acid from batteries: 1. A bad cell in a battery. This causes the charger to try to bring the charge in 5 cells to the same voltage as the normal 6 cells. That WAY overcharges the remaining cells. So, start by fully charging all batteries and then use a BATTERY HYDROMETER (under $10 from any auto parts house) to make sure you don't have a bad cell/bad battery. The very best charging equipment, when asked to charge a battery bank with one bad cell will do a very poor job. 2. Converter, charger or inverter/charger or solar panel(s) overcharging the batteries because it is not a "smart" charger, or is a smart charger that has not been properly programmed. Verify charging voltage AFTER charging source has been operating for at least 24 hours (i.e. should be in FLOAT mode). 13.0-13.5 is fine for wet cell batteries. More than 13.5 will over charge them, causing water consumption and expulsion of acid. If solar is your primary method of maintaining battery voltage make sure your CONTROLLER is set to the proper voltage. Brett

To add to what Bill said, while coming IN is concentrated into a short time window, one can leave at their own schedule-- so departure is spread out over a longer time period. Also, departing takes a lot less time, as you are not waiting for everyone to disconnect their toads, waiting to be directed to the next available spot, etc. Departure is really a non-issue.

rdtripn, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, BEST way to determine correct tire pressure is to weigh each wheel position. Take the heavier wheel position on each axle to go to your tire manufacturer's Inflation Tables. This will tell you the MINIMUM PSI for that weight. Most add 5 PSI to that minimum as long as it does not exceed the tire or rim max ratings. And of course you have to factor in any tankage that you have that is not full as well as any personal gear or people who are not on board. As you know, the weight of any tankage/gear stored behind the rear axle will add more than it's weight to the rear axle than its actual weight and SUBTRACT weight from the front axle. Keep that in mind when weighting the front axle if the gas tank is well behind the rear axle and full. Brett

Herman, Not sure that "voltage rise" is a valid test. If a battery starts out fully charged, even a small charge will drive voltage up to 15-16 VDC. In fact, that is EXACTLY how batteries are EQUALIZED! A small amp charge to a fully charged battery with voltage allowed to rise above normal charge voltage (i.e. Equalization) serves to de-sulfate the plates. Many of the higher end smart chargers have a built in program to allow equalization. Brett