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wolfe10

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Everything posted by wolfe10

  1. wolfe10

    No 12V

    Clearly, you are loosing 12 VDC somewhere between the battery and the appliances. Don't know if you have a manual battery disconnect switch or a solenoid battery disconnect switch as Herman mentioned. Start by making sure that the disconnect switch IS in the on position. If the switch does control a solenoid, it will be somewhere near the house battery bank. With switch off, one large lug should have the same voltage as at the house battery. With switch on, the other large lug should have the same voltage. If it doesn't, disconnect the small positive wire from the small terminal. Use a jumper from the large lug with battery voltage to the small positive terminal. If the solenoid clicks and the other large lug has voltage, you have a problem with a fuse, the disconnect switch or wiring to the solenoid. If still no voltage at the other large lug, the solenoid is bad. Brett
  2. wolfe10

    No 12V

    Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Sounds like the house batteries are dead, or at least not getting charged. When shore power or generator power your converter or charger, all appears well. My suggestion is to check wiring and any breaker/fuse between the converter or charger and your house battery bank. Make sure all connections are clean and TIGHT. With a digital voltmeter (a necessity and they start under $20 at Sears, Radio Shack, etc) check voltage at the house battery bank. Of course, if the batteries have been totally discharged for a long time they may be toast. Voltage should be 12.2- 12.7 with converter or charger OFF (no shore power or generator) and 13.2-14.2 with converter or charger ON. To check the batteries, they need to be fully charged (by your onboard converter or charger OR by a portable charger. Once fully charged, any place that sells batteries can load test them for you. Brett
  3. Have you checked your owners manual? Many that are towable 4 wheels down have a short section on recreational towing with a step by step procedure.
  4. Along with the question about whether it is towable 4 wheels down, an equally important question is: IS YOUR CHASSIS, HITCH AND (REPEAT AND) COACH RATED TO TOW THAT HEAVY A VEHICLE-- even with brakes on the Range Rover. Very doubtful. Remember, the lesser of the ratings dictates towing capacity.
  5. wolfe10

    Dead Batteries

    As Bill said, you have something (actually, may be more than one thing) very wrong. While driving, the alternator should have easily supplied the electrical needs of both your battery banks and that light load on the inverter. Same for the inverter/charger keeping up the house batteries while on shore power. Start by rechecking electrical connections at the batteries. If OK, then you will need to pull out your digital voltmeter and start troubleshooting. Post the voltage readings at each battery bank when: Engine off, no shore power, no generator. Engine on and at 1,200 RPM, no shore power, no generator Engine off, shore power on, no generator Engine off, shore power off, generator on. Brett
  6. Bob, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I assume the fans you are talking about are at the top back (outside access area). If so, check with your coach maker-- they may be on a switch or they may be on a thermostat. You might also use a flashlight and mirror and look up in the refrigerator outside access area to see where the wires go from the fans. Brett
  7. First, even if it works in a particular campground, it would provide HALF the power of a regular 50 amp outlet. A 50 amp outlet has TW0 50 amp hots so it provides 100 amps of available power. 20 plus 30 is 50 or one half a regular 50 amp. Second, electric codes for a LONG time have called for GFI protection for any 15 or 20 amp outlet. If the 15 or 20 amp outlet is a GFI protected, this device will not work-- it instantly trips the GFI. Are there some older CG's that are not GFI protected-- a few. But, many of these older CG's have limited power and view the cheaters as just that-- cheaters. Check with CG's you are considering to see if they are allowed and their 15/20 outlets are not GFI protected. Brett
  8. Are these fixed caliper disk brakes (pistons on both sides) or sliding caliper disk brakes (pistons on only one side)? If sliding calipers, the slide area needs to be lubed with a special high-temp grease made specifically for this purpose. Brett
  9. Bobbco, Yes, Ford and others have 12 VDC vacuum pumps. Should be able to fine one in any wrecking yard, as all diesels have some form of vacuum pump to "power" the dash HVAC system. You might contact Monaco to determine what the wires to the pump are-- if it is air vs 12 VDC powered, I don't know. Brett
  10. Perhaps I was not clear. You do not want to raise the rear WHEELS off the ground to level. Indeed, DO put boards, etc under the rear wheels if the back is low. If one side is low, put boards, etc under the wheels on that side. Be sure to support the complete footprint of any tire on boards, etc. Brett
  11. Give Cummins a call in the morning with your engine serial number: Cummins 800 343-7357 But, the exhaust system was fit by your chassis maker. Give them a call with your chassis serial number. Brett
  12. It would REALLY surprise me if a Jeep Cherokee was under 2000 pounds. Not suggesting that you don't want to tow it, but it does weigh well more than 2000. Brett
  13. Actually, the LESSER of the following determines towing capacity: GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating) MINUS actual loaded weight of coach. Hitch capacity (do NOT assume that what is printed on the hitch is the towing capacity-- often coach manufacturers buy a heavier hitch and use it on a number of different models-- not all of which have the same towing capacity) Chassis maker's towing capacity (something like transmission may be the limiter) Coach maker's towing capacity (there are quite a few coaches built with frame extensions that are much less strong than the chassis maker's frame, so the coach maker degrades the towing capacity) Brett
  14. 1. How many miles do you typically dinghy tow your vehicle yearly? 6,000 miles 2. What is the total tow mileage you have on your vehicle now? 17,328 miles 3. What is the total tow mileage you expect to put on the vehicle before you upgrade to a new vehicle? 100,000 miles 4. When towing, what is the average amount of time between stops? (be it restroom or fuel)? 4 hours 5. How often do you stop for a period of 10 min or more? (be it restroom, stretch, eat, fuel)? 4 hours 6. What is your preferred cruising speed? 60 MPH 7. Do you use a rock shield? Yes 8. Where does the rock shield mount (bumper,towbar,dinghy, or... so what type)? Towbar
  15. Bud, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I would call HWH on Monday-- they are very good with troubleshooting (as are their manuals). Most manuals are on-line at: http://www.hwhcorp.com/service34.html. There were issues on some jacks with weak return springs-- don't know if your series/year was involved. HWH 800 321-3494 or 563 724-3396. Brett
  16. Mike, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Assume your coach is equipped with 50 amp shore power. If so, all you need to use 30 amp is a 30 amp male to 50 amp female adapter. Available at all RV stores and many Walmarts. The only difference is that you must limit your electrical consumption to under 30 amps. BTW, I HIGHLY recommend coming to an FMCA Convention to anyone new to motorhoming. The number of free seminars that will help bring you up to speed on the many systems in your coach are well worthwhile. Brett
  17. Larry, Did you measure the blade to shroud clearance at exactly the same place on the shroud. Would suspect there to be more variance in shroud than blades. And, if no vibration, it may be that they balanced the blades exactly the same as I suggested-- by shortening the heavy/heavier blades. Brett
  18. Bill, I would call FMCA on Monday. I suspect the list is just a sample of tires available under the program. BTW, we are one of the "old timers", though we have replaced our original 9R22.5's with Michelin 255/80R22.5's. Brett
  19. Ya, removing material from the end of the heavy blade(s) would be my first choice.
  20. There is a lot of evidence that changing brake fluid every two years or so materially reduces chances of brake failure on the Bosh brakes. Keeping the phenolic pistons "dry" is as easy as changing fluid. Fluid change is also a good idea on ANY heavy vehicle with hydraulic brakes. New brake fluid boils about 500 degrees F. Old/hydrated brake fluid boils at 286 degrees F. BIG DIFFERENCE. Brett
  21. Rich, With the centrifugal force generated by the spinning fan blade and the fact that many plastic fan blades flex with change in RPM, I would be hesitant to use a stick on weight. At high RPM that would make quite a projectile. If it is just a little out of balance, I would be tempted to just file down the very end of the heavy blade(s). If REALLY out of balance, I would drill a small diameter hole near the end of the light blade and install a very small stainless steel bolt and nylock nut. With a balance checker like you describe, you could move the bolt and nut around to different blades/further in and out the light blade to determine the exact location for perfect balance. Brett
  22. I believe the Bosh brake recall was on Workhorse chassis, NOT Freighliner chassis. There may or may not be one on the Freightliner chassis-- I would check with Freighliner. Brett
  23. Marvin, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Here are prices on Michelins through the FMCA program: http://www.fmca.com/images/stories/pdf/michelin-prices.pdf
  24. I agree with Bill UNLESS he thinks you will make him guarantee that the booster will make the system work to your satisfaction. That would be a different matter. Brett
  25. I am afraid you might end up with one that is NOT towable 4 wheels down going on a generalization. If you have specific units you are considering, you might go: http://www.fmca.com/motorhome/towing.html Click on "Towing Guides-- towing 4 wheels down" and then on the year model you are interested in. Brett
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