wolfe10

http://www.walkerheavyduty.com/catalog/docs/WHD08_Accessories.pdf Brett

Rufus, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Let's start with the basics: What are your front and rear axle GAWR (from sticker near driver's area)? What are your front and rear axle weights when loaded as you go down the road-- individual wheel position weights even better? What tires do you have and what PSI are you carrying? Has it been aligned since having the "house" built on it and your personal gear loaded in it? Brett

I would start by getting the part number for the exact replacement from your chassis maker. With make and model, you can get the exact dimensions. You might also go by a shop that works on OTR truck exhausts. They could quickly tell you what you need. Brett

As I mentioned above, start by checking the adapters and shore power cord with an ohm meter, as they take a lot of abuse. If they check out OK , THEN start with the coach. A bad ground would not give the red light you mentioned and mrboyer posted (assuming your meter lights are the same as his). Brett

Ross, If his tester is set up the same as yours, he have a VERY serious problem, with HOT and NEUTRAL being reversed. Since I believe this is a 15 amp receptacle at his home, he needs to unplug the coach and have an electrician rewire it. In the meantime if power is needed, use the generator, or test and use another outlet that is properly wired. Brett

I believe you are talking about SWAY BARS (also called ANTI-SWAY BARS). Your chassis may already have one or two. And yes if you have excessive side to side rocking as you drive they are a good place to start. But, they will do nothing for lean. The thicker the sway bar the more resistance to sway. Aftermarket sway bars are thicker than most OE bars. But, before investing in a complete new sway bar, verify that the sway bar bushings and end link bushings are in good condition. Most bushings are rubber. Upgrading to polyurethane bushings may be all you need. Yes, if the bushings are in good condition and you have a lot more sway than other vehicles, sway bars may be in your future. Look at large vehicles in front of you as you drive. See if you sway more than they do. Replacing the bushings is easy with regular hand tools. Be safe and use jack stands when working under any vehicle. Brett

grandyp, Yes, the crankcase breather on ALL diesels (Caterpillar, Cummins, etc) need to be extended to behind the fan shroud so the oil mist and moisture they are supposed to emit are not sucked up by the fan and deposited on the front of the CAC (Charge Air Cooler) where they attract dirt and block air flow. All diesel engines built before 1/1/2007 need this modification. It is important that the extension ONLY RUN DOWNHILL from the engine with no drip loop. Brett

Yes, bad ground or reverse polarity. Either one needs to be fixed before it harms you or your appliances. Brett

Charge time depends on size of battery (in amp-hrs), output of charger (in amps) and whether it is a smart charger (starts at higher voltage then lowers it as the batteries become fully charged) or a "dumb one that charges only at a lower constant rate. If it has an ammeter on the charger, let it run until it is down to 2-3 amp charge rate. With many, it will take overnight to fully charge. Also, if you are driving, the engine's alternator will charge them (assuming the charging system is working properly). Brett

Yes, a 12 VDC charger will charge them up. If 12 VDC batteries just connect to the positive and negative. If two 6 VDC batteries in series, connect positive to the battery's positive post that goes to house positive and the negative to the other battery's negative post that goes to house ground. Said another way, on two 6 VDC batteries in series, do NOT connect either charger lead to the terminals with the interconnect between the two 6 VDC batteries. Brett

Yes, your dash air is basically a larger version of our car A/C. So if you have equipment and knowledge of automobile A/C systems, you are good to go. No idea where your high/low ports are located. No real convention on that-- both mine are up front near the dryer/evaporator. Brett

Paul, You did not mention the year model of your Pontiac, but some of the tow bar manufacturers have on line installation manuals for each vehicle, so you could go through it and see if it is something you want to tackle and/or approximate installation time. Here is one-- just enter the specific vehicle information: http://www.roadmasterinc.com/vehicle_guide/tow_bar_brackets.php

Please let us know that the A/C compressor is coming on and both ambient temperature at the air return and out the A/C vent. Also, if this is at your same home outlet where you are having electrical issues, get those electrical issues resolved before troubleshooting the A/C. You will sure want to verify that you have 108- 132 VAC with the A/C running, correct polarity and good ground.

Don't know the yellow, yellow, red on your particular meter. Might want to google the manufacturer and determine what it means. Kind of useless to have coded lights without them supplying you with what the codes mean. I would start checking the adapters with an ohm meter to make sure that there was not a broken connection or prong within the adapters. Let us know what the the yellow, yellow red means, then we can give further help. Brett

How to post your picture: http://community.fmc...photo-on-forum/

In a word, NO. They are sealed units. To recharge, you would need to solder in a valve. Also, being sealed units, you would have to locate and fix the leak. Have you confirmed that the compressor is coming on and that you have good air flow through the condenser and evaporator? At 13 years old, if this problem is major, were it me, I would replace with new. Brett

Frank, Strongly suggest that you do buy a digital voltmeter-- they start under $20 at Sears, Radio Shack, etc. Invaluable in troubleshooting RV issues. And, if you had one, to check that 15 amp ("regular" house outlet): Short straight= HOT Long straight= NEUTRAL Round= Ground. So, from short straight to long straight= 120 VAC Short straight to round= 120 VAC (if not ground, it would read zero and just that quickly identify the problem). Long straight to round= zero (if 120 VAC here, just that quickly, you would know that polarity was reversed and you would have identified your issue). But, until you identify and fix the issue, I would NOT use shore power from that outlet. And, could it be a problem in one of your adapters or shore power cord-- sure, but again you would need a voltmeter to check it out. Yes, you do need to be careful not to touch the metal probe part of the voltmeter leads, but other than that, pretty straight forward. Brett

OK, so it is shore power that is the cause-- that is what I suspected, as 12 VDC really doesn't give you that "tingle" that 120 VAC does. Are you on 15, 30 or 50 amp shore power? Have you checked for proper polarity and presence of good ground? Until you determine and remedy the problem, probably safer to unplug. Also, if shore power is off and generator is on, do you still have the voltage on the chassis. Again, if you use a digital voltmeter, you will have concrete numbers to work with. Brett

Kelly, First question-- are you plugged in to shore power? Have you used a digital voltmeter to check between coach metal and ground (metal water pipe, metal stake driven into moist ground, etc). Check on both VAC and VDC scales. And, if on shore power, check with shore power plugged in and then with it unplugged. Brett

First, want to make sure I understand the problem. Is the freezer building up ice that requires defrosting every few days or is it the fins in the refrigerator? As Rich said, for either the first thing to check is the door gaskets. Use the "dollar bill test". As you move the bill around the seal area, you should have firm, consistent resistance. If not, the door needs to be adjusted or gasket replaced. If this is the refrigerator fins icing up, verify that there is a reducer in the outboard end of the condensate drain. If not, warm, humid air is continually being let into the refrigerator. If this is the freezer, making large quantities of ice will add a lot of moisture to the freezer and accelerate the need to defrost. Brett

Don, If you have verified that there is no check valve on the inlet, but is one on the outlet, that is sure where I would start.

JT, As you have suggested, weight has has materially more affect on MPG on grades than on flat ground. Don't know of any published figures on the affect of 500 pounds on your MPG. But, you might read through this Caterpillar Corp document to see the affect of weight on HP demand on both flat ground and while climbing a 6% grade. Higher HP demand is directly related to higher fuel consumption: http://www.catrvclub...anding_Perf.pdf Brett

Don, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. It is quite common for there to be one check valve.

gddroke, Set tire pressure cold (i.e. before driving). Do NOT let air out as your PSI rises with driving and higher temperatures. The tire manufacturers are very much aware of the increase due to heat and their inflation tables take that into consideration. And, as you point out, if a tire is in the sun, PSI will and should be higher, just as if it had been driven. Cold would have the asterisk of "in the shade". So, on tires in the sun, indeed, they should be set a few PSI higher. Easy to OVER-THINK this. It is really not that complex. Brett

Wow, Bill and I posted at exactly the same time. Indeed, it is either his observation or mine. So, start by verifying fuel flow to the carburetor. If no flow, could be a stopped up filter, bad pump, bad wiring to pump or leak on the hose from tank to pump (suction side leak letting air into the fuel line). If good flow to the carburetor, overhaul or replace the pump. Brett