wolfe10

In addition to verifying that the gas jet orifice is clean, you will need to clean the burner tube (remove and clean) and check ignitor gap.

Membership date on the Forum is not the same as the date one joins FMCA. So, if he just joined the Forum, and has been a member of FMCA for years, that all makes sense. Brett

Suggest you do/have done the burner area tune-up. If still an issue, check gas pressure with a manometer. BTW, you can easily build a manometer for under $5.

Outside access area. At the bottom of the flue (chimney).

CORRECT!

If bunk beds are a "must have", that will really limit your selection. Let us know if this or any other factors are "must haves".

Since Forum rules prohibit for sale ads, if anyone does know of one, might PM (Private Message) Rivercabins. Thanks. Moderator

http://towdemco.com/baseplate-fitlist/towedconnectors/

Batsome, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. You need to tell us what brand and model jack you have for us to be of service. Have you Googled the brand an checked their website or an on-line manual? Another alternative is to call them for troubleshooting help.

Ken, Suggest you use a digital voltmeter to check voltages. Start at the house batteries. Take readings at both sides the disconnect relay/mechanical switch. Next at the 12 VDC fuse box for house circuits. In other words, VERIFY whether you have a problem. Trust your voltage readings a lot more than those idiot battery status lights. Let us know what you find.

Hlswaim, No way to know until you/someone else removes the cover and checks all the wiring (with 120 VAC power OFF). Be aware that the capacitors could still retain quite a charge. Brett

Pull out your refrigerator owners manual and to the burner area tuneup. It is recommended preventive maintenance once a year. No special tools and no parts are needed. Issues that could cause this that are addressed in the tuneup are: Debris or rust in the burner tube. Improper ignitor gap. Debris or rust between ignitor and ground. Dirty propane jet causing too small a flame to trigger the thermocouple. Only after doing each step in your book should you consider "throwing parts at it". Brett

No, it is not listed in the 2002 Towing Guide. Go to the FMCA main page, scroll over Motorhoming and click on Towing. Select: Towing Guides-- towing four wheels down. Then the year model you are interested in.

Yes, the Source Engineering trailing arms are an excellent solution to the original poor-design trailing arms. Any shop that works on truck suspensions can do the work.

Tom, Yes, removing the step REQUIRES installing a large-diameter "drain" through the floor (built-in vacuum compartment) and basement floor below the propane burner in case of a propane leak. On your U240 this is an easy modification. The gain is a larger refrigerator-- two cubic feet larger. A quick google for the 3962: http://www.campingwo...-0-cu-ft-/34425

Dan, If you just want to substitute a switch or even male/female connectors for the thermostat, remove the wires from the thermostat and wire the switch or connectors in its place. It is late now. PM if you want me to call you in the morning. Brett

Dan, Welcome to the FMCA forum. A simple solution is to replace the thermostat with a simple switch. That way you can turn the fans on during the hot part of the day and off at night. In fact,that is how I have mine wired-- to a switch over the galley (hot) direct to the fans and then from there to ground. Even simpler short term solution: at any auto parts house get protected (insulated) male and female connectors and to wire to thermostat IN and OUT. Connect them when you want power to the fans. Brett

Yes, check with your Ford dealer fora copy of the step by step recommendations for changing the plugs in your engine. And, if one is stripped, there is a kit to install a permanent insert.

Tom, Very familiar with replacing a refrigerator in a 1993 U240. And the Dometic 4804 is unique in that it has a 120 VAC compressor in the lower front. To install any new refrigerator means re-designing the floor to remove the "stair step". Not a big job if you are even reasonably handy. We replaced our 4804 with a Dometic 3962-- one of the new generator (larger interior and external temperature display) refrigerators and are happy with it. Other than the floor modification which you will need with any refrigerator, it required minimal trimming of one side of the trim. I have no first hand experience with any helium units. Brett

RB, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. A call to Winnebago with your coach VIN should yield the most accurate information.

The official position by ALL diesel engine makers is that ULSD is backward compatible with all their engines. In other words, no additive needed. I use two additives for specific reasons: If storing fuel for more than 2 months in the summer or 3 months in the winter, I add a BIOCIDE (from any marine store). If storing summer grade diesel into below freezing conditions, I add an anti-gel (from any Walmart). Brett

Good general older engine advice from Herman. In addition to that, the thing that concerns me is that the smoke is coming into the coach. That could indicate an exhaust leak and be VERY DANGEROUS. I would find someone familiar with the old Mopar 440 and have them help you troubleshoot it.

mdouglass55, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. There is no reason for that kind of performance from any RV refrigerator in good condition. What make and model do you have? Is it in a slide? Do you have the auxiliary fans at the top of the refrigerator outside compartment exhausting UP? Have you tested the 120 VAC heating element(s)?

From the Blue Ox Website for the Sport Lift III: http://www.blueox.com/p-1185-sport-lift-iii.aspx P/N: SC4200, Sport Lift III P/N: SC9000, Receiver Hitch W/ Plates **Please verify motorhome chassis capacity rating before purchase, as some coaches do not support all carriers or Sport Lifts. Sport Lifts are for Diesel Pushers only. Some welding is necessary for installation of Sport Lifts, Sport Carriers, and Motorcycle Carrier I. Follow proper welding guidelines. When towing with a Sport Carrier, the use of a Class IV tow bar, Class IV safety cable, and supplemental braking system is strongly suggested.

OK, but since you said you did not loose vacuum boost to the brakes even after 5 minutes with the engine off, but did loose it when the cruise control was operating, I would block the cruise control vacuum line as well (assuming it is vacuum operated). From your description, the cruise control is the variable.