wolfe10

The Safe T Plus DOES need to be centered when installed (as to all steering devices that help self-center). Does it sometimes take 2-3 fine-tunings to get it to where you can take your hands off the wheel and be assured that it will go straight-- sometimes. But a short test drive can completely finish the job. All that is involved is loosening 4 nuts and moving a bracket a small distance one way or the other and retightening the 4 nuts. Anyone can do it. Brett

Dean, If this is a Spartan chassis, I would call them for advice. Spartan Tech (800) 543-4277. But is this a Harney Renegade? If so, it is on a Magnum chassis (Safari in-house chassis). Brett

Two different issues here: 1. Will it work electrically? If plugging into two 30's YES-- and you will have 60 amps total available (vs 100 with true 50 amp RV service-- two 50 amp breakers/hots). If plugging into the more common one 30 and one 20, NO, if the CG outlets are to code. Code calls for 20 amp outlets to be GFI protected. If the 20 amp outlet IS GFI protected, this device will immediately trip the GFI and therefore not work. Also, most CG's that are not wired for 50 amp are older and the wire size is generally NOT adequate to supply both 30 and 20 amp outlets in a single pedestal at the same time. Certainly, there are exceptions. If the CG is NOT up to code (i.e. no GFI protection on the 20 amp outlet), it will work electrically (ASSUMING adequate wiring size from CG breaker box to outlets). 2. Repercussions with CG owner. And most CG's without 50 amp service calculate their rate based on lesser electrical consumption than the cheater allows. You might give the CG a call (if you have one specific CG in mind) and ask the owner before you spend the money. Brett

You might also contact Freightliner and alert them and perhaps they will even send an e-mail to attendees of the earlier class. Brett

I have received excellent service and competitive pricing on our motorhome tire replacements (2 set over the last 12 years because of age) in the Houston area from : http://www.strouhaltire.com/ We have 149,000 troublefree miles on Michelins on our coach, so I am partial to Michelin tires, but others like their Goodyears. Brett

George, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What size tires?

A $10 bill works better, and a $100 bill does the job perfectly. Glad you found to items so easy to fix. Brett

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. You will find one advantage in the desert SW compared with where you are-- substantially less humidity. And condensing all that water takes a fair amount of your A/C's BTU's. A windshield solar screen (outside windshield) helps reduce the "greeenhouse" heating. Some have tinted their side windows as well. Brett

Montie, I would start by minimizing moisture intrusion into the refrigerator. Do the "dollar bill" test to insure the door gasket is OK and the door properly adjusted. Ya, it is a motorhome, so a $10 bill works better. All you do is close the bill the the gasket area and try to remove it. There should be some drag on removal and it should be consistent all around the doors. Also, check the condensate drain hose (outside access area) to make sure the restrictor is in the outlet. If not, hot humid air "rises" into the refrigerator and makes condensation a really bad problem. Certainly humid climates encourage condensation, as do more frequent openings of the refrigerator door. Brett

CORRECT. There are coaches/chassis designed to be leveled first and those designed to have the slides extended first. Please follow the instructions in your owners manual or contact Monaco for the proper order for YOUR coach.

What area of the country? Brett

http://www.kileymold.com/ladder_bracket.htm Brett

OK, with the generator's engine running at proper RPM, start by flipping OFF and back ON the two breakers on the generator itself. Next is to trace power from generator to the motorhome's 120 VAC breaker box. There will be a junction box near the generator where generator 120 VAC output splices into the wire to the coach. IMPORTANT: ONLY if you are safe working around 120 VAC, check voltage there and on further "down-line" (or have a qualified technician do it). From there, generator output goes either to a plug that you have to manually switch to go from shore power to generator OR to an ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch). You have an ATS if you don't physically have to move plug ends around to go from generator to shore power. ATS's are reasonably easy to locate as there are three gangs of wires to them: generator IN, shore power IN, and OUT to 120 VAC breaker box. Check on both sides (generator IN and OUT) in the ATS. Brett

Richard, Were they/you able to determine the brand of the electric valve? Brett

Is it making any voltage? If so, what? And if the answer is zero, turn OFF and then back ON the two breakers on the generator itself. It could also be your ATS (if you have one). Have you checked with a voltmeter at the ATS or where the Onan wiring connects to house wiring (ONLY if you are safe working around 120 VAC!)? If gasoline (vs propane) when was it last run? Did you drain the gas out of it or put Staibl in the fuel before storing? And, if propane is it liquid or vapor? Does the engine sound OK (correct RPM, no surging, etc)? Brett

Is there a P trap on that line? If so, is there water in it? Brett

Here is a link to Family Motor Coaching magazine's annual guides to flat-towable vehicles that have been approved by their manufacturers for flat towing behind a motorhome without major modications. You must be a current FMCA member or magazine subscriber to view the articles. http://www.fmca.com/index.php/motorhome/to...04-towing-index The guides go all the way back to 1999. I am not aware of any change 1998 to 1999. As I recall, the Subaru manual transmissions ARE towable 4 wheels down, but confirm with Subaru. Brett

What generator do you have (and what watt)? What A/C? Have you looked at the voltmeter when this happens-- what is the voltage (and does it drop off just before the generator breaker trips)? Is this the first time the generator has been used in awhile? If so, did you either run it out of gas (only assuming gas-- model above will tell us) or add Stabil to the gas before storing? Brett

A previous thread on this subject: http://community.fmca.com/index.php?showtopic=1514

Chuck, The hoses in the engine room are a lot more in harm's way than those run in a basement or frame rail-- heat, vibration, petroleum product exposure, etc. Many coaches have a splice at the front of the engine area. If not, a hose to hose barb fitting can easily be fit. At the very least, check them for softness, cuts or abrasion. Brett

Here is a thread on Changing Coolant: http://community.fmca.com/index.php?showto...ng+system\ Scroll down to my 3rd post for the step by step procedure many of us use. Brett

It is my understanding (we are in Bonaire right now, so I can't call Caterpillar) that the chassis maker, not Caterpillar fits the dip stick. You can call the Caterpillar RV Hotline with your engine serial number to confirm: 877 777-3126. And then if indeed the dipstick IS fit by the chassis maker, call them. Also, verify the dipstick's calibration: http://community.fmca.com/index.php?showtopic=388 Brett

Now, Herman, connecting to an engine control circuit to power a fan will only get you 5 minutes in time out-- no big deal. You will be out in plenty of time to join everyone for lunch. But, it does bring up a good point. With today's electronic engines and transmissions (both gas and diesel), one needs to be very careful with modifications, particularly with things like fans that can produce RF Interference as well as being an electrical load. Brett

Here is a thread of interest if this is your first mountain driving: http://community.fmca.com/index.php?showtopic=225 Brett

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. ALL are welcome. FMCA membership is made up of those with 25-year-old, entry-level coaches and brand-new million dollar coaches. Find chapters and events that are of interest to you. Brett