wolfe10

YES. Oil pressure sending unit, coolant temp sending unit, etc. Water (with dirt) conducts just enough electricity to cause a false alarm. Dismantle, clean to bare metal and lightly coat with a di-electric grease (auto parts store, Radio Shack, etc). Same for roof top "antenna up" alarm.

How much time to you have for the trip? Any particular interests that the kids have? Brett

Ya, anything over about 13.5 VDC is too high for being plugged in 24/7. Again, what converter, charger or inverter/charger do you have? Many higher end ones are programmable (read that-- they NEED TO BE PROGRAMMED). Brett

Best advice is to fully charge all batteries and go to a place that sells batteries for a free load test. Also, verify that chassis as well as house batteries are charged from shore power. If not, add an Xantrex Echo charger, Trickle charger, etc. And what converter/charger do you have that causes you to have to check electrolyte level on a weekly basis? Sure sounds like it is overcharging the batteries. 13.2-13.5 VDC is where they should be once float has been achieved (check with digital voltmeter 24+ hours after plugging in). Brett

These numbers really understate true attendance at the Convention. There were a large number of attendees who chose to stay in the many commercial CG's around Albuquerque vs camping at the Balloon Field. Since Convention camping at the Balloon Field was about a 35 minute drive from the Convention location, far more people than usual choose to stay in full hookup sites and just day pass to the Convention. I do not have a coach count for these additional attendees, but it certainly ran to several hundred. Brett

7 Pin Wiring Diagrams: http://rvbasics.com/techtips/rv-travel-tra...lug-wiring.html http://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx The center IS back-up lights. The black is supposed to be 12 VDC positive. Brett

Check voltage with a digital voltmeter at the control panel while deploying the jacks. If 12+VDC, I would suggest giving Atwood a call at 800-546-8759. Brett

Wayne, If the owners manual calls for the engine to be running, then I would do it that way. But, it would surprise me that this would be necessary to provide extra 12 VDC amps IF you are still plugged in-- your converter/charger, particularly after being plugged in overnight will have the batteries plenty charged to bring in the slides. Perhaps there is some other reason??? And most recommend starting the diesel, letting the engine idle for 30-40 seconds and then bumping the idle up to high idle speed (1,000 to 1,100 RPM) for faster warm-up. Most coaches have this idle up feature in the cruise control. Brett

Actually, at least, the major diesel engine manufacturers all suggest NOT starting their engines unless they can be driven at highway speeds long enough to get the oil up to operating temperature. Starting and idling, even at high idle, is worse on the engine than not starting it at all. Brett

Agreed-- it is better to use them than just let them sit. But, let's define "drive it" (while being stored). If you can't drive it at least 25 HIGHWAY miles, don't start it. To be effective, you need to get the oil, not just coolant up to operating temperature. And for those with a "dumb" converter that could overcharge the batteries of left on 24/7, an option is to buy a HD timer, like at Home Depot) and plug the converter into it. Let it come on for an hour a day. Brett

You might want to contact the conversion company on whose coach you saw switches you like.

Jon, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I am not sure what you are asking. It sounds like your compressor(s) are wired correctly, with an ignition hot used to activate the relay to supply battery power to the compressor. As long as the compressors are wired this way (using ignition source only to close the relay), you can gain ignition source from virtually anywhere, as you are adding less than a one amp load. Brett

Bill, No, that feature did not exist on the hydraulic 4 speed or even early MD2060 6 speeds. Brett

The reason for different answers is, that indeed it DEPENDS. If you have a "smart" converter, charger or inverter/charger AND it is properly programmed, leave it plugged in 24/7. If you have a "dumb" converter you do not want to keep it plugged in 24/7 as it is likely to overcharge the batteries and boil out the water. Smart units (when properly programmed) maintain battery voltage at the proper 13.2-13.5 VDC. So, at least 24 hours after plugging in (to allow the unit to cycle through the bulk and absorption phases and reach FLOAT) measure voltage at the batteries with a digital voltmeter. This will also tell you that BOTH battery banks are being charged as is best if stored long-term. Read your charger's owners manual for programming instructions. The "smarter ones" ask for several things: battery size (in amp-hrs), type of battery (wet cell, gel or AGM), ambient temperature (for those that do not have a temp probe on the battery), etc..

A quick look from underneath should quickly reveal the dipstick/fill tube's location. Some are accessed from above (bedroom area).

Actually, I suspect you have two 12 VDC batteries in PARALLEL (positive of battery one to positive of battery two, negative of battery one to negative of battery two). Were they wired in series, you would be running the coach on 24 VDC! And, yes you can hook a trickle charger to the positive terminal of either battery and the negative to the negative of either battery for charging. Be aware that all trickle chargers are NOT the same. You want one that will maintain the proper voltage (check with digital voltmeter after fully charged-- 24 and again at 48 hours). Voltage, once the batteries are charged should be between 13.2 and 13.5 VDC. Below that means they are not being charged properly, and above that means they are being overcharged/water boiled out of them. Brett

Michael, Contact Beaudry RV: Ask for a copy of their excellent, free Rally Planning Guide. There were copies available at their booth at the FMCA Convention in Albuquerque. Brett

Montie, Are you a member of any CG group such as Passport? Let us know what discounts you have available-- many of us were just in Albuquerque for the FMCA Convention last week and have first hand information on some of them. Also, is there a particular area of Albuquerque that you want to be in/things you are interested in doing there? Lastly, what time of year is your trip-- shade is more important in the summer (but as you are right at a mile high it does cool off at night). Brett

Normally a trickle charger maintains the chassis battery, with the "main" charger, converter or inverter/charger taking care of the house batteries. And VOLTS are what you measure to determine battery charge (yes, amps can be used, but require monitoring with some higher end equipment such as the Xantrex Link products). Basically, if battery is 13.2 to 13.5 VDC, they are being charged. Readings up to about 14.2 are OK if the batteries are deeply discharged (bulk mode). And your alternator should charge BOTH house and chassis batteries while the engine is running-- they always charge the chassis battery, or you could not drive very far without running them down. Again all you need to do is check voltage at both battery banks with engine running. With shore power off and engine running, voltage should be 13.5 VDC to 14.2 VDC. Brett

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. You might go back to the first post in this topic-- it covers the HOW it works and my observation on how I use it. The how it works is FACTUAL. The WHEN to use is is based on our individual preferences/opinions. We just drove home from Albuquerque-- used economy mode 100% of the trip. If I had hit a passing situation on a two lane road where I would be happy to trade a lot of fuel for a little more performance, I would have selected power mode for that situation. Brett

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Easy to test: Accelerate in power mode, noting max engine RPM in each gear. Do the same with the mode button on. If the shifts are at lower RPM with mode on, it is working-- and perhaps the bulb is bad??? Let us know what you find. Certainly, any Allison dealer can connect their computer and tell you. Brett

The answer is that all your propane appliances are designed for use while driving. Not sure I would use stove while driving though! Is there a small incremental risk-- sure. But most of us find the risk WELL within an expectable range. This ASSUMES you use kiddie soap bubbles (then rinse with fresh water) to check all propane connections at least annually. It also assumes that you turn off ALL PROPANE APPLIANCES while fueling (turning off the propane is NOT the same, as the igniters will still spark if the appliance controls says "light my fire". I would suggest that you are much more likely to have problems from food poisoning if you travel many hours with the refrigerator off than to have a problem caused by a propane system in good repair. BTW, not sure what you mean by propane fueled "heat strips". Heat strips are resistance heaters in your 120 VAC A/C's. Brett

1. There are too many ways that converters, chargers or inverter/chargers can be set up to be able to tell you how yours is wired. But with a digital voltmeter (start under $20 at Radio Shack, Sears, etc) you can tell very quickly what is happening on your coach. With shore power on, check voltage at each battery bank. Over 13.0 indicates a battery is being charged. 2. Again, too many ways for these to be wired. Easy answer is to use a 12 VDC ammeter to check for draw with the switch OFF. 3. Shouldn't. But your battery may be bad-- deeply discharging them is REALLY hard on any battery, particularly starting batteries. You should completely charge them and have them load tested (most places that sells batteries will do it for free). 4. You need to tell us what charger you have. "Drip Charger" is not a term I know. Do you have a converter, charger or inverter charger for your house battery charging? Do you have a second charger for the chassis batteries? And yes, a trickle charger, Xantrex Echo charger, etc will keep the chassis battery bank up if working and properly wired. BTW, be sure to check battery water level. If the plates are exposed, it is another sign that the batteries are on their last legs. Brett

Harry, It does not surprise me that the ride is not significantly different between Koni FSD's and any shock with over 100,000 miles on it-- both should ride softly. What you should notice is better handling, less porpoising, etc (i.e. better control). I can't answer your question on two different shocks for your chassis, call Jim Ryan at Koni (859) 488-0339. Brett

Rob, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Indeed, start by weighing and using the correct tire pressure. If that does not achieve all your goals, THEN start looking at aftermarket devices. Both Michelin and Goodyear have RV tire PSI/load charts on their websites. Obviously, the first step is to have 4 wheel position weighting (BEST) or at least axle weights (ASSUMES perfect left/right weight distribution-- unlikely) with the coach loaded as you normally travel (with people in their seats, etc). If 4 wheel position weights, use heavier wheel position on each axle to go to the chart. Add 5 PSI safety reserve to the chart number (which is the MINIMUM PSI for that given weight). If you only have axle weights, add 10 PSI (assuming it does not exceed tire or wheel recommendations to account for left/right imbalance and safety reserve. Brett