wolfe10

Looking on Hott Rod's website: http://www.hottrod.net/Hott_Rod/hott_rod_cold_facts_hot.asp the element for the 6 gallon water heater draws 4 amps and for the 10 gallon 6 amps. So draw depends on which water heater/element. Brett Wolfe

Larry, If you will, please post the axle identification for which these part numbers apply (or at least how yours was identified)-- Model number, Serial number, etc. That will allow other with the same axle to save the information, without having those with a different axle assume it is correct for their application. Thanks. Brett Wolfe

Gene, I would wire it as you outline but use a GFI outlet because you are working around water. And, neither Atwood nor Suburban recommend the installation of a Hott Rod. It will increase the galvanic reaction, particularly in the Aluminum tanked Atwood. Brett Wolfe

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Thanks very much for posting the results of your research. Hopefully, it will save another member a lot of research-- or at least give them a good beginning point once they verify what axle they have. Brett

The "T" valves are the air tank drains. Assuming your coach has an air dryer (most do), the opening them briefly is basically a "report card" on the functioning of the air dryer. You should only get clean, dry air out. If you recall working with an air compressor (like the air chucks at convenience stores), compressing air "squeezes" the water out of the air/condenses it. Same happens in your engine driven compressor. Water is harmful to the mechanical components of your brake and suspension, so an air dryer is fit. The air goes from the on-engine air compressor to an air dryer. The dryer removes the moisture from the air. It also has a filter that removes oil (that may have gotten by the rings in the air compressor). The air then goes to the storage tanks. So if you see any water or oil in the tank drains, the air dryer needs service. There will also be a recommended preventive service interval for the dryer in your chassis manual or air dryer manufacturer's manual. And the stored water in the dryer is purged when the air compressor reaches "cut-out" pressure. That is the "sneeze" you hear when coach air pressure reaches cut out pressure. Brett Wolfe

Welcome to the FMCA forum. No, there are no "leveling devices" for tanks while driving. They are firmly bolted in place. Just as in fuel tanks, many are baffled to reduce sloshing. There are several types of leveling devices once you are parked, including jacks and air leveling. Brett Wolfe

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Simple answer is NO. Not all states require Air Brake Endorsements, even for vehicles with air brakes. As you point out, it IS a very good idea for anyone with air brakes to understand how they function.

I assume you have done a chapter search in your area: http://www.fmca.com/index.php?option=com_f...h&Itemid=98 Next would be to contact your Area Association -- in your case, the Rocky Mountain Area Association to see if they know if others may have similar interests and are geographically near you. You can also contact the Rocky Mountain Area Association President: Allen Rein - President Cell 719-431-1605 arein1@gmail.com Allen can also give you information on forming a new chapter.

Michael, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Have you called Fleetwood with your coach VIN? And hopefully, someone else has the same coach and can answer before Monday. Brett Wolfe

My suggestion is to look in the manual for the location of the model number. Copy that down and call Carrier for the FACTS. And if a heat strip model, check to see if yours is on the recall list. Brett Wolfe

If it is not going to be driven, don't start the motor. Just starting and idling it does more harm than good. Make sure you change the oil just before storing it unless the oil is less than a thousand or so miles old. Inflate the tires to the max on the sidewall of the tire as long as it does not exceed rim max PSI (recommended by the tire manufacturers for extended storage). Be sure you have a battery disconnect on the chassis and house batteries unless you have solar panel(s) keeping them up. The solar is a good idea BTW. Have your son go over monthly, start the generator, turn on the A/C and let it run for 45 minutes. Then switch the A/C to fan for an additional 10 minutes to dry out the evaporator and allow the generator to cool down before shutting it down. That will help combat the normal battery self-discharge as well. Obviously, covered storage is a lot easier on it from a sun-damage standpoint. Cover the tires if possible to keep the sun off them. 6 months of sun exposure with no driving is really hard on tires-- a main cause of sidewall cracks. Brett Wolfe

Will you have shore power available? To clarify we are talking about November to May in Florida? And someone will be able to have access to drive it and run the generator on a monthly basis? Brett Wolfe

If you don't have your Carrier A/C owners manual, go to: http://www.airv.carrier.com/cac/home/0,298...ETI1977,00.html Click on "Product Manuals" on the left side and select the manual for your unit. Note, not all Carrier A/C's are heat pumps. Some are A/C only and some are A/C with heat strips. As a fall back position, call Carrier with your Carrier serial numbers: 1-866-GO4-AIRV (464-2478) Monday - Friday between 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. E.S.T. for immediate customer assistance. Brett Wolfe

Gary, I view carrying spares as EQUALLY important for those who do their own work and those who "use their cell phone". As I posted earlier, lots of other people can do the work for you (just pick up your cell phone). BUT, expecting that they can get their hands on the right part at 6 PM in the middle of nowhere is a completely different matter. And, you mention carrying a spare unmounted tire in Mexico-- I do the same. I have no illusions of changing it myself. But with the proper tire, it is easy to have the spare mounted and installed locally. I view belts and filters in the same light. Brett Wolfe

Wayne, My "good info" is START ENGINE, HEAD SOUTH. When an orange tree is happy, I'm happy. Yes, block heaters are all 120 VAC. Some coaches have a separate switch, some you have to plug in/unplug. A good idea to use it in temperatures below 40 degrees F. If temps are in the 40's, an hour is all that is needed. If temps are below zero F, 3 hours is adequate. Most are 1200 to 1500 watt heaters. Most are screwed into the engine coolant jacket in the side of the block. And read YOUR engine owners manual for proper starting techniques. Some manufacturers suggest cycling the key twice in very cold temperatures to fully heat the engine INTAKE MANIFOLD HEATER. Brett Wolfe

You are correct, your Caterpillar engine does not have glow plugs. Like most modern diesels, it uses an intake manifold heater not glow plugs on cold starts. That is why using ether (which is explosive) to start a modern diesel is so dangerous. Spraying an explosive on a red hot heating element is just not smart. Some diesel engines do use glow plugs. Don't think of them as replacements for spark plugs, but as "individual cylinder heaters". Because it requires one for each cylinder and they live in a much harsher environment, they are not as long-lived as intake manifold heaters. Brett Wolfe

Actually, you need a spare for EACH of your fuel filters. Most, but not all diesels have TWO: A PRIMARY fuel filter/water separator and a SECONDARY fuel filter. The primary filter has a course filter element (10-30 micron) and the secondary has a fine filter element (2-5 micron depending on engine). And if you only have one fuel filter/water separator, it MUST have a fine filter element or you will "throw rocks at your injectors". And if I purchased a coach with only a single filter, I would gladly pay my money to add a second. Remember the order: fuel tank, primary filter/water separator, lift pump, secondary filter, engine. As to how they fail and why you need to carry spares-- fuel filters are one of the few things that have NO AVERAGE LIFE EXPECTANCY. If all they see is clean fuel, they could filter a million gallons and only need to be replaced every couple of years as the filter media breaks down from age. But, one tank of fuel contaminated with dirt, rust, water, etc can clog up the filter(s) very quickly. And the filters you purchase should be those recommended/speced by your chassis maker as they are the ones who make that decision. And be sure to order the filter elements by part numbers, not, for example "I need a fuel filter for my Freightliner chassis". Freighliner sold chassis with both single and (proper) two filter configurations. If the last filter the counterman sold was for a two filter system and he just pulls the same part number off the shelf, you just replaced your 2 or 5 micron filter element with a 30 (if you happen to have the single filter set-up). Very expensive mistake. Brett Wolfe

This is the discussion Tom is referring to: http://community.fmca.com/index.php?showtopic=244 Brett Wolfe

I posted this a few minutes ago in response to the question: What spare parts do you recommend carrying? But it is an important subject that really should be covered as a separate topic of its own. Engine belts and extra fuel filter(s) are both reasonably high failure rate items that can leave you on the side of the road. They are also both relatively inexpensive and can be installed by service personnel virtually anywhere. If your chassis is over 3 years old, replace the belts NOW. That does several things: 1. Guarantees that they are the correct size. 2. Puts new belts on the engine, so they are less likely to break. 3. Gives you a spare set of belts. Spare fuses are another inexpensive high failure rate item. I also recommend carrying quantities of all your fluids (engine oil, distilled water, coolant, Transynd/ATF, etc). It keeps you from putting in the wrong fluid and doing real damage or having to spend your valuable time hunting for the correct fluid in the middle of nowhere. Also, FRESH (they have a short shelf life) SCA test strips if you have a diesel and the correct SCA additive/filter compatible with your brand of coolant. Other than that, it depends on your skill level and also on how far off the beaten path you go. For example when we travel to Mexico, we carry a spare (unmounted) tire, as our size is not available in Mexico and a spare fresh water pump. Brett Wolfe

Ron, Engine belts and extra fuel filter(s) are both reasonably high failure rate items that can leave you on the side of the road. They are also both relatively inexpensive and can be installed by service personnel virtually anywhere. Spare fuses fall into the same category. I also recommend carrying quantities of all your fluids (engine oil, distilled water, coolant, Transynd/ATF, etc). It keeps you from putting in the wrong fluid and doing real damage or having to spend your valuable time hunting for the correct fluid in the middle of nowhere. Also, FRESH (they have a short shelf life) SCA test strips if you have a diesel and the correct SCA additive/filter compatible with your brand of coolant. Other than that, it depends on your skill level and also on how far off the beaten path you go. For example when we travel to Mexico, we carry a spare (unmounted) tire, as our size is not available in Mexico and a spare fresh water pump. Brett Wolfe

Correct. Driver's licensing does have reciprocity between states. Vehicle and driving restrictions do NOT. Each state sets their own limits on things like max overall length, gross GAWR (though many follow the federal guidelines), speed limits, etc. So, yes, you are legal to drive. Your rig may or may not be. Brett Wolfe

David, Thanks for sharing your experience with us. May have been a (slightly) expensive lesson. ALWAYS a good idea to carry spare belts and fuel filters, as they are unique items. BUT there are people virtually anywhere who can put them on for you IF you have them with you. If your chassis is over 3 years old, my recommendation is to replace the belts NOW. That does several things: 1. Guarantees that they are the correct size. 2. Puts new belts on the engine, so they are less likely to break. 3. Gives you a spare set of belts. Brett Wolfe

It is possible-- do you hear the source of the noise that high up? Tape them off to determine if they are the cause. Brett Wolfe

A good temporary or diagnostic idea. But, those weep holes are to allow condensation on the inside of the windows as well as any water that gets past the gaskets from the outside to drain. If you do identify these weep holes as the source of your noise, depending on exact window design, there are "covers" available for them that will block wind, but still allow them to drain. Brett Wolfe

To help isolate/identify the source of the whistle, buy a roll of the 1" wide blue painter's tape. Use it on different areas until you have identified the source of the noise. Brett Wolfe