wolfe10

A couple of questions to better answer your question: 1. Will you have 120 VAC shore power available where you store it? 2. How long (time) will it take you to burn a tank of fuel? Brett

Ron, I don't like the dues increase either (we are on a very tight budget), but we would rather pay $5 more a year than to see FMCA get in financial trouble. We all know that advertising revenue from RV manufacturers is way off. Not your fault, not my fault and not the Executive Board's fault. But, it would be totally irresponsible for them not to deal with reality. In order to balance the budget, what would you recommend that your Executive Board do -- what should they cut and/or where should they raise revenue? Brett

How much time do you have -- are you looking for most direct route or a scenic route? If the latter, what kinds of things are you interested in? Brett

Yes, no problem at all. You will receive a Pass for your toad in your registration packet that allows you easy entry/exit from the coach parking area. Come and go as you like. Brett Wolfe

I would not recommend waiting until spring to do a real good job of rinsing the salt from under the coach. That is a lot of time for corrosion to eat unprotected/poorly protected metal and particularly after-coolers, radiators, etc. I would do it the first day it is above freezing. And, if possible, drive it on a non-salted road after washing to insure that brakes, etc are effectively dried out. Brett Wolfe

OK, you have heard two good (and accurate) methods of determining what you can carry/tow. Tom's method will likely be more realistic when considering a coach that is for sale, as some dealers are reluctant to allow you to take the coach off the lot to be weighted. But, clearly, Bill's method (obtain ACTUAL weights) is more accurate. And should you buy it, will be high on the priority list. Let me throw in a couple of more "gotcha's": The reading of the coach weights from the sticker as Tom indicated may or may not be accurate. Some manufacturers post weights based on base coaches with options, even mandatory options sometimes not included in unloaded coach weight. And, clearly it will not tell you if one axle or wheel position is already at it capacity (i.e. the coach's weight distribution is poorly laid out). The other issue is that it is very unlikely that you can use a coach's total GVWR, as to do that, weights would have to be balanced perfectly left/right and each axle loaded to its capacity. VERY unlikely. When any wheel position's weight is at 1/2 axle capacity rating, THAT IS IT for that wheel position. So, for example, you may have the front right wheel loaded to its carrying capacity, but because storage placement, may not be able to shift weight to the left. Or the whole front axle may be at weight limit with, perhaps 1000 pounds capacity on the rear axle, but no storage behind the rear axle to allow you to put your stuff here. This is especially true of coaches with tag axles, as the tag is normally where much of the CCC is, but no way to put your stuff in the very back of the coach. Brett Wolfe

Sorry, John/Mary. A good question, but it doesn't look like anyone has experience with a dual hitch receiver. Let's leave it open and hope a new member has experience with it and can share their thoughts. Brett

Now, THATS funny-- is a queasy kind of way. Brett

Here are Frequently Asked Questions for the Albuquerque Rally: http://www.fmca.com/index.php/conventions/...hat%20can%20you An excerpt from it: Is there a dump station and fresh water available? There is no dump station located at Balloon Fiesta Park. However, there will be a dump station at EXPO New Mexico in Lot K. A pump out roving service may be purchased for $25 plus tax from AAA Pumping Service, Inc. at the Information Center in the Creative Arts Center, Monday through Thursday from 8:00 a.m. until 11:00 a.m. Fresh water is also available at EXPO New Mexico or may be purchased and delivered by AAA Pumping Service, Inc., up to 55 gallons, for $25 plus tax. Be prepared and arrive at the grounds with full water tanks and empty holding tanks. Brett Wolfe

Good advice. Usually the motor is easier to access than the back of the controls. Go to whichever is easier to access. Measure voltage between hot wire to motor and the ground wire to motor. If you don't have 12+ VDC with switch on and ignition on, measure from that hot to known good ground to rule out the ground wire. The other thing you can do is put 12 VDC positive to the motor hot lead when the fan is not working. If it works then, the switch is the likely culprit. Brett Wolfe

Since it is winterized now (all tanks and lines drained and RV antifreeze used/lines blown out, water heater drained, etc), there is no need for heat right now. The issue will be when you use it. If potable water system remains drained, the only issue will be your holding tanks. Check with Tiffin, as many times the propane furnaces are also ducted into the tank basement area. Normally, space heaters/roof A/C's do NOT keep the tank area from freezing. Brett Wolfe

I agree. The bigger issue is not the wet carpet that a fan or dehumidifier (if in humid climate) can correct, but where is the water coming from. AND is the sub-floor damaged. Many coaches use interior grade plywood/particle board floors. You need to get them dried out and then check for structural integrity. Let us know the source and extent of damage to the sub-floor. Brett Wolfe

Do a search for FMCA International Chapters that may be of interest. No, International does not refer to overseas chapters-- it means chapters that are not geographically defined. We belong to two International Chapters as well as a local one. We are very active in one of the International Chapters-- The Cat RV Club (aka Caterpillar RV Engine Owners Club) and will be headed for their pre-rally before the FMCA Convention in Albuquerque this March. http://www.fmca.com/index.php?option=com_f...t&Itemid=98 Brett Wolfe

Out of curiosity, from time of purchase/activation, what is the length of activation before it expires? Was that mentioned anywhere on the packaging or manual? Brett Wolfe

If built on the Workhorse UFO chassis, it is receiving rave reviews by owners. The only issue I am aware of was a fan clutch issue very early-- it has been resolved. I do not believe the UFO chassis is currently in production. Best advice, drive it and others you are considering and see how it fits YOUR needs. Brett Wolfe

We will see a wide range of "improvements" in MPG reported when using Economy Mode over that using Regular/Performance Mode. And that is reasonable-- as Mode makes virtually no difference on flat ground since the transmission is not down/up shifting whether in regular or economy mode. But in rolling hills/mountains, economy mode can minimize/eliminate the 5-6-5-6-5-6... shifting on each grade. Under these conditions use of economy mode can significantly improve MPG. Brett Wolfe

I agree, with proper care gas engines will go 100,000+ miles with few problems (things like cracked exhaust manifolds, etc are common but not major). Also would agree that 190 HP is on the low side. But, GCW (Gross Combined Weight) / HP is more relevant than just discussing HP. 100 pounds/HP is kind of the benchmark. Yes, many of today's multiple slide 40+ coaches are heavy enough that they do NEED 400 or more HP diesel engines. It is somewhat misleading to compare diesel HP with gasoline engine HP. Yes, a HP is a HP-- the same amount of work can be done by a 300 HP diesel as a 300 HP gas engine. BUT, the diesel can safely operate at that output for days at a time. To spin the gas engine at the RPM's and load to produce peak HP for very long is outside their design perimeters. But, all these power/longevity discussions aside, buy the rig that fits YOUR family's needs as you project them for the next few years. Brett Wolfe

Here is what we use: http://www.roadmasterinc.com/products/prot...tect_store.html Brett Wolfe

Said another way, I suspect you could buy a newer Diesel Pusher for the same money. You have to decide if the Spectrum really is THE coach for you. Brett Wolfe

Gary, If all you needed to do is ground the board, you did OK. But, if HWH suggested that the pump to chassis ground is bad, you still need to run that ground. You sure don't want the "best ground" for that high amp motor to be through the circuit board. And on most of them (verify with HWH) a pre-made battery cable (auto parts house) from any point on the body of the motor/bolt securing it, etc to known good chassis ground is the ticket. And just use long carpenter's level on the floor to calibrate the level sensor. Takes a little time, but not difficult. Brett

Hot off the press at Allison Transmissions: http://www.allisontransmission.com/servlet...mp;DownloadID=5 An excerpt: DEXRON®-III and DEXRON®-VI fluids are no longer approved for use in Commercial On-Highway transmission products and have been removed from the Allison Approved Non TES 295 fluids list. Transynd is still the preferred fluid, with "Allison Approved TES 389 fluids" acceptable. Brett Wolfe

I just heard from someone with a coach that falls within the list having the defective design trailing arms. He said he was OK-- that he had had them checked. I then asked if he had it check for the presence of the defective trailing arms design (to confirm that they need to be replaced with the upgraded design) or just verified that the defective design had not yet failed. BIG DIFFERENCE............... Please be careful out there-- having a rear axle "running around" back there is NOT a good option. Source Manufacturing's Website is: http://www.rv-chassis.com/index.html Brett Wolfe

Tools needed: Digital Voltmeter (start under $20 from Sears, Radio Shack, etc). There is a lot of confusion about batteries and what charges them. There are some conventions followed by all manufacturers, but there are enough differences that one can not categorically say “They are all like this.†All coaches do have two battery banks, HOUSE and CHASSIS. House batteries are/should be deep cycle and supply the 12 VDC needs of house items like lighting, water pump, fans, furnace, refrigerator PC board, water heater PC board, etc. Generally made up of multiple batteries��" either 12 VDC batteries wired IN PARALLEL or 6 VDC batteries wired IN SERIES (or pairs in series wired in parallel��"4, 6 etc batteries). Think of 6 volt batteries wired in series as “a 12 volt battery in two cases,†as all house functions are 12 VDC. Generally the house battery starts the generator, but a few use the chassis battery or have a separate generator battery. The chassis battery starts the engine and in a few, the generator as well. They are starting batteries, not deep cycle batteries. So, how do they get recharged-- two ways on most coaches��"from the alternator when the engine is running and from the converter, charger or inverter/charger when 120 VAC is available from shore power or generator. With the engine running, most coaches charge BOTH battery banks. This is generally done through a battery isolator so that the two battery banks are not left connected when the engine is not running which would run down both banks. The isolator can be a diode-based isolator, a simple solenoid (large relay) or a smart relay. All do virtually the same thing, allow both battery banks to be charged from the alternator but separate them when the engine is not running. You should periodically VERIFY that indeed the wiring and “isolation device†are working and that both battery banks are being charged by the alternator. Start by disconnecting from shore power/generator for several hours. At the batteries, check voltage. If you have 6 VDC batteries, check from the positive terminal with cable going to house to negative with cable going to house, not the positive/negative with cable that just goes from one battery to the other. Do the same for the chassis battery bank. Voltages should be between 12.2 VDC (50% discharged battery) and 12.7 VDC (fully charged battery). Anything above 12.7 is surface charge and will quickly go away with even light loads. Note the voltages. Now, start the engine. If you have the feature, go to high idle (same as you do to warm up the engine after 30 seconds at low idle). Go back and read voltage at the batteries. Both banks should be higher than the last reading and if the batteries are not deeply discharged, between 13.5 and 14.5 VDC. If this is not the case, you will need to troubleshoot your charging/isolation system. With 120 VAC from shore power or generator, the converter, charger or inverter/charger should also charge the house bank and on many the chassis batteries as well. To verify, disconnect from shore power/generator for several hours. Read voltage at house and chassis batteries. Plug in/turn on generator. Read voltage. Voltage at any battery receiving a charge should go from under 13 VDC to 13.2-14.2 VDC. If it remains the same, that bank is not being charged. Many coaches do not charge the chassis battery from shore power��" a serious problem with all the parasitic loads on today’s chassis battery. IMO, this should be corrected. Xantrex Echo charger, a separate “small smart charger for chassis bank, solar panel, or even wire from house positive to chassis positive all work to keep the chassis battery charged. If using a wire from positive to positive, BOTH ends must have a fuse, since touching any metal or ground terminal with either end would cause a dead short. Do NOT use a wire if one bank is deeply discharged and the other fully charged, as small wires are not designed to handle the rapid transfer of large amounts of current��"this is for maintaining a charge only. You also have a battery boost/combine switch. This allows the two banks to be combined, with house battery assisting the chassis battery in starting the engine or the chassis battery assisting the house battery in starting the generator. To verify its functioning, disconnect from shore power/generator for several hours. Turn on some 12 VDC loads to slightly discharge the house battery. Read battery voltage at each battery��"all you are really looking for is that they are different. Now, with someone activating the boost switch, verify that both batteries are at exactly the same voltage. If not, you need to troubleshoot and determine if the switch/wiring or solenoid is faulty. If the battery voltages were not the same with the boost switch activated, locate the combine solenoid. It should be near the batteries and have a large cable going to each battery bank. Recheck voltage from each large lug to ground��"with solenoid working, they should be exactly the same. It will also have either one or two small wires to it. If two, one will be the signal wire and the other a ground. If one small wire, it will be the signal wire from the dash switch, and the solenoid grounds directly from metal to metal contact. With your voltmeter or even a test light, check for 12 VDC/light at the small signal wire lug to ground. If present, but the voltage at the two large lugs is not the same (i.e. batteries not combined), the solenoid is defective. If you did not get 12 VDC/light from the signal terminal with boost switch activated you need to check the dash switch and wiring and you still need to verify that the solenoid is working. With a small wire (will only be carrying less than one amp) go from either large lug to the small signal wire lug (not ground lug). If the solenoid is functioning, you should hear a loud “click†and the two large lugs should read the same voltage.

Larry, Excellent information for anyone with a TDA reel. Thanks for the detailed description. Brett Wolfe

Bill, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I just went to Roadmaster's website-- they DO list a base plate for the 2010 Fit. Go to this site and enter Make, Model and Year: http://www.roadmasterinc.com/vehicle_guide...ar_brackets.php You can also download the installation manual for their baseplate: http://www.roadmasterinc.com/pdfinst/521190-1.pdf Brett Wolfe