wolfe10

Bob, Might try this website: http://www.hitchtrader.com/ Brett Wolfe

What brand jacks do you have? Have you spoken with them about this? And are you following their recommended procedure for deploying the jacks? Many call for dumping the air suspension before deploying the jacks. Brett Wolfe

Gary, Rear sway bars ARE available Here is one from Roadmaster: http://www.roadmasterinc.com/pdfinst/1259-108.pdf Larger front sway bars are also available. Brett Wolfe

Tom, Sorry we will miss you, but that sounds like a great cruise. Several years ago, Dianne and I did the last of the season Hawaii cruise/repositioning cruise. Ended up in Vancouver (where the ship transitioned from the Hawaii to Alaska itinerary). What a great time. Soooo, post not only if you are coming, but also if you have a really GREAT excuse for not coming. Tom-- yours gets and A+. Brett

If your coolant has leaked out (or you suspect it has leaked out), be sure to monitor the cooling unit temperature (refrigerator outside access door). If no coolant is in the system, it can easily overheat and become a fire hazard. I am not suggesting not testing it, but do not allow it to start a fire! And if operating properly, you will be able to feel cooling on the plate in the freezer unit in less than an hour. Brett Wolfe

In a word, NO. RV absorption refrigerators use an ammonia-based solution as a coolant, not Freon. And if it is leaking, the only two solutions are to replace the whole refrigerator or to replace just the cooling unit. Both new and rebuild cooling units are available. The decision on which option is best for you depends on age and condition of the rest of the refrigerator, whether you can do the work (vs pay retail for labor) and how long you plan to keep the unit. Brett Wolfe

Lew, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I found a PDF with installation instructions on the Cat RV Club (an FMCA Chapter) Technical Website (http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/CATRVClub/). On the right side of the page, click on FILES. Then click on: fumes disposal.JPG You could also call the Caterpillar RV Hotline at 877 777-3126. They should be able to get you a copy of the installation instructions. Brett Wolfe

OK, who will be coming to the Albuquerque FMCA Convention? We will have a Forum get-together at the Convention. Here is the description in the Seminars list: http://www.fmca.com/index.php/conventions/...e/2916-seminars Thursday 9:45 a.m. to 11:00 a.m. FORUM FEVER ON FMCA.COM, SEMINAR 2 The FMCA.com Forum is hot. It's just 1 year old and has more than 11,000 registered members (no cost). They're using the forum to find and share information about every motorhoming topic imaginable, from technical to destinations. This seminar is your chance to meet other forum members, ask questions, and get useful tips. Everyone is encouraged to attend, including forum newbies and experienced forum users. Hope to see you there -- we'll be there! Brett and Dianne Wolfe

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Some intrusion of exhaust-ladened air into the toad is normal given the location of the exhaust exit on many coaches. If you re-orient your exhaust to the side (vs back) it will materially lessen the amount that affects the toad. And with any diesel, make sure your air filter minder reading (reads restriction in the air cleaner and all "plumbing" from side of coach to turbo fresh air intake) is as low as possible. Said another way, insure that that diesel fuel has LOTS of air to burn it cleanly. Also, make sure you are using the correct quantity of oil in the eigine, as over-filling causes oil to be exhausted through the crankcase breather tube (slobber tube) and that can also get black oil mist on the toad. If you have a Caterpillar engine, refer to this docunent for the correct oil quantity (which includes oil filter): http://ohe.cat.com/cda/files/517742/7/LEHT9288.pdf?mode And do NOT assume your dipstick is accurate. These engines are installed over such a wide range of angles that it is best to calibrate the dipstick which costs $zero at your next oil change (There is a separate topic on this here in the "engine section" of the FMCA Forum). Brett Wolfe

Water ingestion into the intake snorkel is a know issue with your Ford chassis. Ford has a service bulletin and parts to address it. Here is a photo of one of the solutions from Ford: Ford Air Intake Modification Brett Wolfe

YES. Dianne and I will be attending both. In fact I will be giving the Maintenance Seminars at the Caterpillar RV Engine Owners Club Rally in Amarillo: http://catrvclub.org/rally_info.htm. Will also be giving the Caterpillar RV Maintenance Seminar at FMCA Albuquerque on Thursday of the Convention. So, see you at both. Brett Wolfe

As you can see from these posts, there are a number of aftermarket devices in addition to two kinds of steering dampners being discussed. Again, my recommendation is to share with us what chassis you have, etc (my first post). That way you are MUCH more likely to get answers specific to your chassis and needs. If you have a Workhorse P chassis that is loaded to GVWR, advice on what worked on a Ford F53 with light load will really be irrelevant (or worse misleading). Brett Wolfe

Gary, To give advice specific to YOUR chassis, we need to know what chassis you have. The Workhorse P chassis is VERY different from the Workhorse W chassis. So comments pertinent to one will likely not apply to the other. Brett Wolfe

From Waco, the easiest route to Albuquerque (been there, done that several times) is: I 35 north then I 35W to Ft Worth. U.S. 287 to Amarillo I 40 west to Albuquerque Yes, in March, check weather forecasts and take a more southerly route if necessary. And for controlling speeds on descents, for you (Class C) gearing down achieves the same thing as use of the exhaust/engine brake on the 40' DP. Just choose a gear that keeps your speed in equilibrium on those long descents. If you start speeding up, apply the brakes long enough to allow you to slow enough to select a lower gear. You will pick it up very quickly, and again neither route you would take has any serious/technical mountain driving. Brett Wolfe

You asked about coming from the east to Albuquerque and also about travel quite a bit further west. Where are you coming from-- then, perhaps we can suggest a route. I-10 is has no safety issue that I am aware of. We just traveled across Texas, NM and AZ on it within the last few weeks. Neither I 10 nor I 40 are a problem in terms of curves and grades. Yes, one needs to know how to use their exhaust brake/engine brake to control speeds on grades, but no really steep places. Hope to see you in Albuquerque-- we are heading that way as well. Brett Wolfe

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, many have added steering stabilizers. But, my recommendation is to address suspension issues that are free/inexpensive first. If they don't solve the issues, THEN consider fixing deficiencies. If that doesn't solve the issues, THEN consider add ons. What chassis do you have? How many miles on it? Original or newer shocks? Have you checked the sway bar bushings. Many chassis used inexpensive rubber bushings that broke down quickly, rendering the anti-sway bars ineffective. Quality polyurethane bushings are much better. Have you set tire pressures to those recommended by your tire manufacturer for your actual weights, plus, perhaps 5 PSI safety reserve? Brett Wolfe

There is no "ideal" motorhome. Will the length of the coach you choose affect where you are able to camp-- of course. Even with our 36' motorhome that's true, though clearly less an issue than with a 40'+ coach. The trade-offs of size/accommodations vs accessibility to smaller CG's is one only you can weigh out for yourself. No different than in boats! Brett Wolfe

What brand cruise do you have? Then we may be able to help. Bendix and Eco were two common cruise control from that time. Brett Wolfe

If you have a 2008 or 2009 Freightliner XC chassis, please go to this NHTSA website to see if your chassis is involved in this rear suspension recall: http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/recalls/recallsearch.cfm Then enter this NHTSA Campaign ID Number: 08V269000 Then hit SEARCH.

Steve, Thanks for the photo-- hopefully someone will recognize that reservoir. But two other thoughts: 1. Can you trace that orange line going to it? 2. E-mail that photo to Monaco Service and ask them. You want to know what it is, what the correct fluid is as well as correct fluid level. Keep us posted. Brett

Yes, it is always a good idea to check tires for RUN-OUT (how "egg" shaped vs round they are). A perfectly balanced tire that is egg shaped will not ride smoothly. Professional tire dealers have run-out gauges (mounted dial indicators) that can check this in a matter of minutes. And it should be done with the wheel mounted on the vehicle, not off. You really don't care if it is the tire that is out of round, the wheel out of round, the wheel's centering on the hub out of round or the hub itself. Net, net-- you want it within about .035" of round when mounted on your vehicle. And if it is outside that spec, you can rotate the tire on the wheel (seeking to match the wheel's low spot with tire's high spot. You can also put the tire's high spot at the top, loosen lug nuts and retorque. Lastly, you can have the tire trued-- almost a lost art. And I much prefer to see the tire balanced ON THE VEHICLE, as again you want ALL rotating mass (tire, wheel hub, brake drum or disk)) in balance. Brett Wolfe

The only reason to replace them before they actually fail is if you camp where replacement batteries are not reasonably available. So if you are headed for the south of Mexico where deep cycle batteries are not readily available, replace now. If in the U.S. or Canada, I would use them until they fail. And I have never heard of adding acid to batteries. When they outgas, they give off Hydrogen and Oxygen. Adding distilled water replenished that. Brett Wolfe

Steve, Here is a tutorial on posting photos: http://community.fmca.com/index.php?showtopic=361 Brett

Steve, Keep after it. Even if everything is working properly (right now), an empty expansion tank is a sign of something that needs attention. If you can not trace the hose(s) to it, another thing you can do is post a photo of the tank in place. That may jog some memories. Brett

Smosher, You say the tank looks empty. Clearly, if you can determine what kind of liquid it holds/should hold, you will be well on your way to determining what it is. Have you tried dipping your finger or straw all the way to the bottom and putting the "sample" in a glass jar for evaluation? Color, smell, viscosity all help differentiate. Brett Wolfe