wolfe10

Tom, You are correct. There IS reciprocity of licensing requirements for drivers. So if you are licensed in your home state, you are OK in other states and Canada. But, as you suggest, each state has its own weight, length., speed limits, etc. One is subject to the laws of the state one is driving in for these issues. Brett Wolfe

For those of you wanting to have your individual wheel position weights so you can know the proper PSI for your tires (and indeed if a corner is overweight and you need to move stuff around), I just got the 2010 Weighing Schedule from Walter C. Cannon, Executive Director, RV Safety & Education Foundation. This is from their Website: http://www.rvsafety.com/custompage7509.html?pg=weighing Start Date End Date Location Event/Place 1/6/2010 1/10/2010 FMCA WMHA Indio CA 1/25/2010 1/26/2010 Escapees Boot Camp Quartzite AZ 3/3/2010 3/6/2010 AZ Good Sams Yuma AZ 3/8/2010 3/12/2010 Gypsy Journal Yuma AZ 3/11/2010 3/14/2010 FL Winnie Gator Orlando FL 3/21/2010 3/25/2010 FMCA Winter Convention Albuquerque NM 4/13/2010 4/18/2010 NM Good Sams Hobbs NM 4/19/2010 4/23/2010 Freightliner Haulers Kerrville TX 5/15/2010 5/15/2010 Pikes Peak Traveland Rally Pikes Peak CO 5/27/2010 5/30/2010 FMCA GLASS Rally Berrien Springs MI 6/3/2010 6/6/2010 RVSEF Lifestyle, Education & Safety Conference Bowling Green KY 7/15/2010 7/18/2010 Heartland Owners Rally Nashville TN 7/22/2010 7/25/2010 The Rally Louisville KY 8/11/2010 8/14/2010 FMCA Summer Convention Redmond OR 8/30/2010 9/2/2010 Gypsy Journal Elkhart IN 9/8/2010 9/17/2010 Escapade Goshen IN 9/15/2010 9/19/2010 PA RV & Camping Show Hershey PA 10/14/2010 10/17/2010 Kings on the Road Rally Stone Mountain GA Brett Wolfe

What kind of "heating problem"? I will be doing the Maintenance Seminars at the Cat RV Club Rally in Amarillo in March (before FMCA Albuquerque). Look forward to meeting you if you are able to attend. Brett Wolfe

The only factual data I am aware of is from a survey of C15 Caterpillar owners on the Caterpillar RV Engine Owners Website (an FMCA Chapter). Club Website: http://catrvclub.org/ Club Technical Website: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/CATRVCLUB/ Survey results: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/CATRVC...veys?id=1992366 This is one of the Yahoo Group sites, so you must register, but no cost and no junk e-mails from it. There were only three respondants. One reported 7.1-7.5, one reported 7.5-8.0 and one reported 8.0-8.5 MPG. Brett Wolfe

OK, if tires are different than those on the GVWR tag, to come up with the recommended PSI based on each axle carrying its GAWR, take that axle weight rating and go to your tire manufacturer's inflation chart for the NEW tires. For example, if Michelins, go to: http://www.michelinrvtires.com/michelinrv/...tion-tables.jsp Again, this should be viewed as a TEMPORARY ANSWER until you actually weigh the coach. Brett Wolfe

The 95 PSI on the sidewall is the correct pressure IF the tire is carrying its maximum allowable load. Until you weigh it, another source for PSI is the GVWR tag near the driver's area. It will give PSI for axles loaded to their GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating), And many truck stops, moving companies, grain elevators, etc all allow for axle weighing. But that assumes perfect left/right weight distribution, so individual wheel position weighing is far better. Then, using the heavier wheel position on each axle, go to the tire manufacturer's PSI/weight chart to determine the minimum PSI for all tires on that axle. I recommended adding 5 PSI as a safety margin to that minimum. Brett Wolfe

Sam, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Best advice on towing is to start by reading the owners manual towing section very carefully. If questions, call Toyota. Though someone may have a similar model, running changes are made that may make advice less than accurate for yours. As an example, Ford changed the steering column in the Ford Focus between 2007 and 2008 . In 2007, you could/should tow with the key in the OFF position. Do that with a 2008 and the steering locks up! Another option, particularly if you will be using an auxiliary brake in the toad is to run one additional wire from coach to toad to keep the battery charged while towing. Be sure BOTH ends of the wire are fused, as both ends will be hot. And if you will be leaving the coach to toad wiring connected overnight, a diode so the car battery does not try to charge the coach battery if you are boondocking. Brett Wolfe

Replace shocks if: 1 They are leaking (not just damp with oil, but leaking). 2. If the bushings (top and bottom) have any wear or play. 3. They are bent or otherwise physically damaged. 4. They do not control coach motion-- in addition to Tom's excellent advice, I find the easiest place to "test" shocks is over speed bumps at regular (slow) speeds. You can easily tell how many times the front and then the rear go up and down before stabilizing. Anything over 2 oscillations means they are shot. I like them to give better control-- so 1.5 is my maximum. If they are OK per the above, I don't have any great expectations for the shocks to control side to side motion. YES, the help, but were you to make a shock stiff enough to substitute for HD sway bars, they would be VERY stiff (read that "uncomfortably stiff") in normal driving conditions. So, for excessive sway, start by verifying that all 8 of the sway bar end link bushings and main bushings are in good shape. Also, some shocks (older pre-FSD Koni shocks) are adjustable. So adjusting them may be an alternative to replacement if everything but dampening is OK. Brett Wolfe

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What kind of coach/chassis do you have? Does it have an on-board air system? And, as a side note, is the 95 PSI in all tires based on the tire manufacturer's recommendation for your actual weight? It is unusual that the fronts and rears would work out to the same PSI. Brett Wolfe

Do you know who made the slide mechanism? Many coach builders buy them vs make them. And be careful here. Shear pins are just that-- meant to break before other (read more expensive) components are broken. So other than in an emergency, I would not go with a stronger or substitute pin. Brett Wolfe

First question: Does it leak when on pump pressure or only on shore water connection pressure? If only on shore water connection, do you have a pressure reducer between faucet and coach? Brett Wolfe

There is a gasket between the roof and A/C unit. Depending on age and condition, you MAY be able to tighten the 4 bolts (from the inside) that secure the lower unit of the A/C to the roof-top part of the A/C and compress the gasket. Do NOT crush this foam gasket. If tightening up a little does not do the trick, gasket replacement is not difficult (with two people) if you are safe working on the roof. And the gasket is not expensive. Brett Wolfe

Particularly if you camp where the water is not chlorinated, water plus sun= algae. Pour 3 to 4 ounces of plain Clorox or other no-additive bleach in the hose and fill with water. Let stand for a couple of hours and flush with fresh water. Brett Wolfe

Attending an FMCA Convention or joining an FMCA chapter are great ways to meet others with similar interests. Have you looked through the Chapters to see which ones have interests that align with yours -- Including Class B's? I remember at the Perry GA FMCA Convention this last spring a whole field of Class B motorhomes parked together -- and having a great time. Many systems, travels, and lifestyles of Class B owners are the same as Class C and A's. So, you are correct, the "exclusive Class B" forum is not very active, BUT questions on any appliances or systems, destinations or general comments certainly could be posted by others with Class B coaches- in the appropriate subject area. Most FMCA members do not really look that closely at what their neighbors drive-- you will find 1.5 million dollar coaches right next to and spending time with those with 20 year old small coaches. But, yes, you can find "exclusive groups" sure, if that is what your are interested in. To answer your other question about your renewal date, once you have signed in (as you are when you post here), scroll over "Members" drop-down menu at the top of the page right side. Then click on "Renew Membership." It will show you when your membership expires. If you are signed in and select "Update Membership," you will see your membership "valid thru" date there as well. Brett Wolfe

We do "ALL OF THE ABOVE". When in storage, there is a dehumidifier onboard set to 45%. When we travel, the dehumidifier stays home and we do as Tom does. Brett Wolfe

I don't know what chassis you have, but if you read comments in the summer, there are a LOT of overheating complaints, particularly from rear radiator chassis (especially if the inter-cooler is not cleaned frequently). Making more HP/burning more fuel does increase the amount of heat an engine produces AND that the cooling system must dissipate. Agreed, the rest of the drivetrain itself (Allison 3000 and rear axle) will be fine. Yes fuel consumption will go up. No free rides. To produce more HP/torque any engine requires more fuel. The only conditions where MPG could go up is if you drive in areas where you don't have sufficient power and.even in economy mode. the transmission is constantly downshifting to 5th to pull grades. Adding just enough power to keep it in 6th all the time would save a little fuel. But overall, consumption will NOT go down. Brett Wolfe

Amby, First, peak torque does not change -- it remains 860 lb-ft at 1,440 RPM. Any time HP is increased, it means two things -- you will burn more fuel and you will produce a greater heat load on the cooling system. The first issue is one that you can answer -- am I willing to pay more fuel for a little more performance? The second issue is more complex. Basically, you are asking if the chassis maker originally "OVER-SIZED" the cooling system enough to handle additional heat loads. Where most would use the extra HP is climbing those long grades -- exactly the same place that your cooling system is already stressed. Another way to approach the decision is to ask what you want to achieve? For most, if it will not allow you to go 5 MPH faster up those 6% grades, it is likely not worth it. Caterpillar Corp has an excellent document to determining FACTUALLY, what additional HP will do for you in terms of speed on a 6% grade. https://ohe.cat.com/cda/files/287140/7/LEGT5364.pdf Go to page 7. Determine which coach (GCW) you have and see how much additional HP it would take to get you those 5 extra MPH. Note: the HP in the table is all "AT THE REAR WHEELS" HP, as Caterpillar had no idea what size A/C compressor, alternator, cooling fan, etc your chassis maker would fit. Figure about 1.30 engine HP= 1.00 HP at the rear wheels. After looking at the FACTS, the decision on "what it is worth to you" is-- indeed yours. Brett Wolfe

Amby, What brand are the slide awnings? Have you contacted them? Brett Wolfe

Don, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Only reliable source for clearance requirements is the refrigerator manufacture's owners manual or contact LG and ask for rear as well as side clearnaces for any models you are interested in. Brett Wolfe

IF vandals did drain the oil, they are the most industrious vandals I have ever heard of. Most vandals are VERY lazy and would not go around with wrenches in their pockets and crawl under vehicles to drain the oil. Go back to where you store the coach or were last parked. One would assume that a vandal interested in draining the oil to cause mischief would have just pulled the drain plug-- kind of hard to imagine a vandal draining into a container and taking it to recycle! Brett Wolfe

Here is an excellent Workhorse Custom Chassis Service Bulletin Number: 50902â€I Subject: Safety Recall 50901â€C Interim Repair Procedure Models: All W20, W21, W22 Models Produced from July 24, 2000, through December 19, 2007, and Equipped with Bosch ZOPS or ZOHT Hydraulic Disc Brake Assemblies. http://workhorse.com/Portals/0/50902-I%20B...L%209-23-09.pdf Brett Wolfe

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. For the most reliable answer, call Cummins 800 343-7357, 0 with our engine serial number. Brett Wolfe

Yup, on all Allison 3000 and 4000 series, 4th is 1:1. 5th is a .75 OD and 6th is .65 OD. Brett

Mike. Power (HP) to weight ratio is a better indicator of climbing ability than just looking at HP along. For an excellent discussion on coach performance, go to this Caterpillar Corporation document (applies equally well to any engine): https://ohe.cat.com/cda/files/287140/7/LEGT5364.pdf Brett Wolfe

Mike, I suspect that is the Allison 4000. Brett