wolfe10

Do you know who made the slide mechanism? Many coach builders buy them vs make them. And be careful here. Shear pins are just that-- meant to break before other (read more expensive) components are broken. So other than in an emergency, I would not go with a stronger or substitute pin. Brett Wolfe

First question: Does it leak when on pump pressure or only on shore water connection pressure? If only on shore water connection, do you have a pressure reducer between faucet and coach? Brett Wolfe

There is a gasket between the roof and A/C unit. Depending on age and condition, you MAY be able to tighten the 4 bolts (from the inside) that secure the lower unit of the A/C to the roof-top part of the A/C and compress the gasket. Do NOT crush this foam gasket. If tightening up a little does not do the trick, gasket replacement is not difficult (with two people) if you are safe working on the roof. And the gasket is not expensive. Brett Wolfe

Particularly if you camp where the water is not chlorinated, water plus sun= algae. Pour 3 to 4 ounces of plain Clorox or other no-additive bleach in the hose and fill with water. Let stand for a couple of hours and flush with fresh water. Brett Wolfe

Attending an FMCA Convention or joining an FMCA chapter are great ways to meet others with similar interests. Have you looked through the Chapters to see which ones have interests that align with yours -- Including Class B's? I remember at the Perry GA FMCA Convention this last spring a whole field of Class B motorhomes parked together -- and having a great time. Many systems, travels, and lifestyles of Class B owners are the same as Class C and A's. So, you are correct, the "exclusive Class B" forum is not very active, BUT questions on any appliances or systems, destinations or general comments certainly could be posted by others with Class B coaches- in the appropriate subject area. Most FMCA members do not really look that closely at what their neighbors drive-- you will find 1.5 million dollar coaches right next to and spending time with those with 20 year old small coaches. But, yes, you can find "exclusive groups" sure, if that is what your are interested in. To answer your other question about your renewal date, once you have signed in (as you are when you post here), scroll over "Members" drop-down menu at the top of the page right side. Then click on "Renew Membership." It will show you when your membership expires. If you are signed in and select "Update Membership," you will see your membership "valid thru" date there as well. Brett Wolfe

We do "ALL OF THE ABOVE". When in storage, there is a dehumidifier onboard set to 45%. When we travel, the dehumidifier stays home and we do as Tom does. Brett Wolfe

I don't know what chassis you have, but if you read comments in the summer, there are a LOT of overheating complaints, particularly from rear radiator chassis (especially if the inter-cooler is not cleaned frequently). Making more HP/burning more fuel does increase the amount of heat an engine produces AND that the cooling system must dissipate. Agreed, the rest of the drivetrain itself (Allison 3000 and rear axle) will be fine. Yes fuel consumption will go up. No free rides. To produce more HP/torque any engine requires more fuel. The only conditions where MPG could go up is if you drive in areas where you don't have sufficient power and.even in economy mode. the transmission is constantly downshifting to 5th to pull grades. Adding just enough power to keep it in 6th all the time would save a little fuel. But overall, consumption will NOT go down. Brett Wolfe

Amby, First, peak torque does not change -- it remains 860 lb-ft at 1,440 RPM. Any time HP is increased, it means two things -- you will burn more fuel and you will produce a greater heat load on the cooling system. The first issue is one that you can answer -- am I willing to pay more fuel for a little more performance? The second issue is more complex. Basically, you are asking if the chassis maker originally "OVER-SIZED" the cooling system enough to handle additional heat loads. Where most would use the extra HP is climbing those long grades -- exactly the same place that your cooling system is already stressed. Another way to approach the decision is to ask what you want to achieve? For most, if it will not allow you to go 5 MPH faster up those 6% grades, it is likely not worth it. Caterpillar Corp has an excellent document to determining FACTUALLY, what additional HP will do for you in terms of speed on a 6% grade. https://ohe.cat.com/cda/files/287140/7/LEGT5364.pdf Go to page 7. Determine which coach (GCW) you have and see how much additional HP it would take to get you those 5 extra MPH. Note: the HP in the table is all "AT THE REAR WHEELS" HP, as Caterpillar had no idea what size A/C compressor, alternator, cooling fan, etc your chassis maker would fit. Figure about 1.30 engine HP= 1.00 HP at the rear wheels. After looking at the FACTS, the decision on "what it is worth to you" is-- indeed yours. Brett Wolfe

Amby, What brand are the slide awnings? Have you contacted them? Brett Wolfe

Don, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Only reliable source for clearance requirements is the refrigerator manufacture's owners manual or contact LG and ask for rear as well as side clearnaces for any models you are interested in. Brett Wolfe

IF vandals did drain the oil, they are the most industrious vandals I have ever heard of. Most vandals are VERY lazy and would not go around with wrenches in their pockets and crawl under vehicles to drain the oil. Go back to where you store the coach or were last parked. One would assume that a vandal interested in draining the oil to cause mischief would have just pulled the drain plug-- kind of hard to imagine a vandal draining into a container and taking it to recycle! Brett Wolfe

Here is an excellent Workhorse Custom Chassis Service Bulletin Number: 50902â€I Subject: Safety Recall 50901â€C Interim Repair Procedure Models: All W20, W21, W22 Models Produced from July 24, 2000, through December 19, 2007, and Equipped with Bosch ZOPS or ZOHT Hydraulic Disc Brake Assemblies. http://workhorse.com/Portals/0/50902-I%20B...L%209-23-09.pdf Brett Wolfe

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. For the most reliable answer, call Cummins 800 343-7357, 0 with our engine serial number. Brett Wolfe

Yup, on all Allison 3000 and 4000 series, 4th is 1:1. 5th is a .75 OD and 6th is .65 OD. Brett

Mike. Power (HP) to weight ratio is a better indicator of climbing ability than just looking at HP along. For an excellent discussion on coach performance, go to this Caterpillar Corporation document (applies equally well to any engine): https://ohe.cat.com/cda/files/287140/7/LEGT5364.pdf Brett Wolfe

Mike, I suspect that is the Allison 4000. Brett

Mike, Yes, I just called my contact at Cummins. All but the lowest HP ISX's (like under 400 HP) come with an engine compression brake (aka Jake brake). Could a coach manufacturer special order an ISX without an engine compression brake-- YES. In fact, I know that Foretravel orders theirs without the engine compression brake and fits all their coaches with the Allison Transmission Retarder. The Jake brake on the ISX functions exactly as does the Jake brake on your DD. Brett Wolfe

The fuel your 460 will burn in 30 minutes would run your generator for many hours. With a smart charger, that's the way I would go. Brett Wolfe

Harvey, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. A couple of suggestions. Drive the rear wheels up on boards to give a little extra clearance. Put safety blocks under the frame (if at home, a couple of logs cut the right dimension work well). Measure your vertical clearance under the engine. Buy Rubbermade container large enough to easily hold the oil capacity with "reserve room" at the top that will fit under the engine. I usually put it on an old cardboard box to make it easier to pull out from under the coach. After refilling the crankcase, use a coffee can and large funnel to pour the used oil from the container into the gallon jugs for recycling. Put the gallon jugs back in the case they came in for easy handling. Be sure to verify the proper fuel filters (do NOT ASSUME the ones on there are necessarily correct) and check SCA level in coolant with the little test strips before determining what coolant filter (if yours has one) to use, as they come with different quantities of SCA. Brett Wolfe

We really need a little more information to be able to give you reasoned advice. First, we don't know what engine you have. The amount of fuel used at high idle by, say a Cummins B engine is a LOT less than by, say a GM 8.1 liter gas engine. What engine do you have? There are significant differences between 45 amp converters. "Smart" converters start in bulk mode which is at higher voltage than standard converters. Said another way, they can get closer to really putting 45 amps into deeply discharged batteries. What converter do you have and does it have a smart feature/module? Also, be aware that it is better on batteries to charge them at a lower rate-- so 2 hours at 45 amps would be a lot easier on them than 45 minutes of charging with a 150 amp alternator. If you have a larger output generator, run it for 2 hours. Plug in an electric space heater to provide heat and load. The generator is better off working under a load. Of course, if you have a small portable generator, the converter may provide adequate load. The more information you give us, the better we can advice you. Brett Wolfe

Beautiful work, both mechanically and cosmetically. Thanks for sharing it with us. Brett Wolfe

Natasha, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Three ways to power a residential style refrigerator: Shore power, generator or a large battery bank powering an inverter (that turns 12 VDC from the batteries into 120 VAC). The size of the battery bank needed depends on amp draw of the refrigerator (should be posted on sticker in refrigerator), amount of time it runs-- in winter, perhaps 40% of the time, and how long you want to run it without shore power or generator. What size/number (or amp rating) house batteries do you have? Do you already have an inverter? Brett Wolfe

FRED's fit in a notch between gas and DP(diesel pushers). Yes, they have diesel engines (small but adequate size), smaller series Allison transmission, leaf spring suspension vs air on DP's, hydraulic vs air brakes on DP's, etc. I see them as a step up from a gas chassis, but a step down from a DP. But, as Herman wisely said, only you can determine what coach/chassis fit YOUR needs. Some have a great time in a 20 year old gas rig, others "have to have" a 42' coach with 4 slides. Same as stick houses-- find what you like and can afford. And even as a certain price point, you can go new lower end or used higher end. Brett Wolfe

David, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Synthetic oil is just fine for your engine. Give your brother a homework assignment: Find documentation to support his claim. BTW, I have used "pure synthetic" oil in my gasoline powered vehicles for the last 40 years. Brett Wolfe

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Part of that decision will be based on where you live. If travel is not an issue, my STRONG recommendation is to attend one of the FMCA International Conventions-- the next one in Albuquerque in March 2010. The Conventions offer several important things for buyers: The ability to look at your choices back to back (and back again to compare)-- all in the same location. The opportunity to actually drive them, on the same route, same day, etc for a REAL comparison. The ability to look at bare chassis, attend chassis maintenance seminars (free) etc to see more of that is "underneath" the coach. The ability to walk up to owners of coaches on your short list (who are camping at the Convention) and ask them for input and have them be able to answer your questions. Brett Wolfe